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Cakefool posted:If you're grossed out by sitting on it, wait until you have to get down there and start handling those screws/bolts, that have had years of piss-mist congealing on them. This is why you should always have a 100 pack of disposable rubber gloves in your toolbox. Also your nightstand, but that's another thread.
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Apr 2, 2008 23:57
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I think it sounds like a lot of money you could be investing for early retirement. Why go to all that hassle for a temporary place? No matter how much you pimp it up it's still your parents house.
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May 6, 2008 04:37
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Not an Anthem posted:Priming new apartments walls that have already been painted a dark blue so I can paint them white. My girlfriend says if we put two coats on the latex primer will serve as a good enough coating. For some reason, this doesn't sound right at all. What would happen if I just left latex primer and didn't put a paint coat over it? This one got skipped, so I'll answer it. You're going to want to hit that with two coats of Kilz before you paint on a new color. Not only will it give you a properly primed surface, but it will seal off that blue underlayer so whatever color you paint on next won't be all skewed.
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Jul 29, 2008 03:10
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The plastic look on modern euro style cabinets is--plastic. They aren't made of wood to begin with.
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Oct 21, 2008 17:24
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gross posted:I'm getting ready to paint some very old plaster walls - about 100 years old if they are actually original. They had no paint on them in the first place, just many layers of paper, so removing everything has left me with clean plaster that's in relatively good condition. You want to use Kilz.
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Feb 9, 2009 04:33
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Just buy a new band.
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Feb 14, 2009 17:35
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Vaporware posted:I'm looking to buy a house with a huge backyard in Duluth GA. What would be involved with putting up a detached one bedroom/one bathroom/kitchenette "inlaw suite" cabin? Where should I start looking? Who would I talk to find out the proper way to do it, an architect? A general contractor? After you check zoning laws, start researching small prefabs like http://www.modern-shed.com/ You can get some really amazing stuff now that would definitely add to the value of the property and function as a really nice detached guest room.
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Feb 18, 2009 05:30
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Jake Gittes posted:I've just moved into a new place, and my shower floor drain is draining alarmingly slow. I've tried Dran-O, but that onlt temporarily relieved the problem. I've now picked up a bottle of Lye to attack the problem, but there are all sorts of warnings about not using it if other products have failed. Can I go ahead and try it, or am I potntially getting ready to create a mush of toxic mutagen in my plumbing? Put on some gloves, unscrew the drain cover, and fish out all the nasty hair. Chemicals only go so far and really should be a last resort anyway. This can help: http://www.zipitclean.com/
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May 23, 2009 21:22
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I generally: 1) Take drain cover off, pull out any large clogs near the drain entrance by hand (wearing gloves) 2) Zip-it 3)  (Accordian style plungers are the cats meow)4) Chemicals I rarely have to go beyond step 3 to chemicals, and I always hesitate to use compressed air in pipe runs you're aren't fully sure are structurally sound but it definitely works well when necessary (that'd be step 6, after auger). I also do preventative maintenance with a natural enzyme product every now and again to avoid the whole situation.
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May 25, 2009 23:51
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Anyone ever put a Sterling Accord 3-wall piece shower surround over an existing cast iron tub (heavy-duty shower surround, mounts to stud)? I know they're flanged specifically to attach to the Accord tub, but we want to keep the cast iron tub in place. It doesn't *appear* like there will be any issue, and we'll caulk it obviously, but I can't find a definitive answer on whether or not it will work. This deal, but only the walls: http://www.sterlingplumbing.com/onlinecatalog/bathsandshowers/bathtubshowers/detail.strl?productNumber=71240110&resultId=1407715465-0
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Jun 13, 2009 03:28
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Empty Pockets posted:How can I frame a poster that is 30x50 (in.)? The craft store wants 330 dollars and that is just way too much. Michael's has 50% off framing sales all the time, you could wait for one (probably be ~$150, maybe a bit more with the good UV glass). Otherwise there are a ton of "how to frame" tutorials on the net but since it's not a standard size you'd probably have to make the frame yourself which would be the tricky part (as well as pay some place to cut you the right size UV glass and round the edges). Matting and all that is relatively simple, it's the frame/glass which is tricky/expensive. Also try local framing places if you're in a big city, sometimes you can find good deals at those with coupons running in the local paper or whatever.
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Jun 14, 2009 17:29
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Not Memorable posted:I think posters look good in float frames which would be really easy to build. Just get two identical pieces of glass that are larger than your poster stick it in the middle, and frame it out with wood. If it's something he wants to keep nice for a long time, that's not a good idea. The thing being framed should not be touching the glass, and the glass should be UV protected. Married to an archivist. If it's just some throw away movie poster or something, then that's not a bad idea.
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Jun 14, 2009 20:21
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You should definitely remove the existing wallboard, not just layer on top of it. If it's something like plaster on lathe you might be able to tile directly on that with quality mortar. No idea on specialty considerations above a cooktop, great question.
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Jun 16, 2009 04:45
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Empty Pockets posted:That 330 is with 50% off at Michaels. I really don't mind building the frame, so I guess my question should really be where is the cheapest place I can find a panel of glass (uv/glare free if possible) that big? A lot of hardware stores will cut glass to any size and round the edges for you, call around, remembering to ask for UV protected high-clarity glass.
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Jun 16, 2009 04:46
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I'm converting one of our spare bedrooms into a full-time office for my freelance business. Problem is, the outlets aren't grounded. However, the room is right above the circuit breaker and the ceiling above the breaker is exposed rafters, so I'm thinking it should be pretty easy to just add a ground line and keep the existing power wiring. Does anyone have a really good guide on how to do this? Specifically on how to tie the new ground lines into the circuit breaker properly.
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Jan 10, 2010 00:24
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