|
I'm looking for a material I can mount against a painted wall to prevent dings in the paint - acting as an armor. I need something that is as invisible or least obtrusive as possible because it's going in a restaurant and is mounted on a wall with colorful paint. The dimensions would need to be about a 2 to 4" tall by 25 to 40" wide. Depth doesn't matter. It just needs to protect the wall and look good. This is close to what I need, but the sizes they're sold in are impractical for my situation. It would be bolted onto the wall to stand up to long-term abuse. http://www.amazon.com/Park-Smart-Guard-Clear-Individual/dp/B0002UQ9XU It might also be possible to "cushion" the trash cans that are banging into the wall instead, but I can't think of how to do that without looking ghetto. Also, the trash cans get wet and are subject to a lot of daily abuse, so that would need to be considered as well. If anyone has a recommendation on a type of material to use, how to use it, and where I can get it, I would be very appreciative. My local Home Depot didn't have any plastics or plexiglass for sale that would work in such a situation, so I'm really out of ideas other than the imperfect product linked above. Thank you.
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2008 10:01
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 13, 2024 03:11 |
|
|
jeff8472 posted:Try a glass shop for plexi or lexan. I think lexan scratches easier. They'll cut it to whatever sizes you need and pre-drill as well. I paid around $5 for a square foot. I just wanted to report a success story here. I ended up using the Lexan that a different Home Depot carried. However, if anyone ever needs to cut Lexan into straight pieces, do not use the plastic cutter hand tool they sell for $3 right above the Lexan sheets. Terrible idea - even if I did 40+ passes with the blade, the darn thing wouldnt break in a straight line because inevitably a handful of the cuts would not go exactly in the "groove" that I started with. I recommend using a power saw of some kind to do the job if anyone ever works with Lexan. That being said, Lexan is unbreakable, and is performing admirably. Thank you for the help.
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2008 02:22
|
|
|
Blowupologist posted:Lexan (polycarbonate) is used for bullet-proof windows, and is engineered to be very tough and flexible. Plastic cutters are designed to work with brittle acrylics. Sorry you found that out the hard way! The blade listed Lexan as a material that it could be used on. GE lied to me.
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2008 08:13
|
|
|
I have a laminate/wood countertop that's about 28 feet long by 18 inches wide. It also has a front face that extends about 8 inches lower. It's built-in on top of a short wall, not on top of cabinets, so pre-fab counters can't be used. My current idea is to lightly sand the existing counter-top and front face, then apply the new laminate direct on top of it using adhesives/dowel rods as described in various google searches. Based on those same searches, it seems like people are conflicted as to whether this can "work" or not. I'm lucky because the "curved" edge of the front counter is in fact three flat faces, so I don't need to bend any laminate with a heat gun. Also, the new laminate/Formica will be black, so I figure any seams would blend in fairly well or I could just go over them with a Sharpie. The bad news is (1) I've never laid laminate before, (2) I've never operated a power saw before, and (3) it's in a commercial location, so it needs to look pretty darned good at the end of the day, and at 28 feet long, any sloppy lines will probably get magnified as I work across the long edges. Is this something I should try? Has anyone done this? Is it possible to have the end result look okay? Suggestions/tips? Thank you for any advice given.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 5, 2009 13:37
|
|