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Meltathon posted:For electricians: As far as I know, the sensor is merely a switch that uses infrared sensors instead of a mechanical switch. You should be able to put a timer in the same spot as the sensor and achieve the function that you desire.
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Feb 19, 2008 06:32
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Is there a simple way to have one drill turn multiple bits at the same time? Something like the lovely ascii depiction below. The bit to bit spacing needs to be 0.375", which is fairly small in my opinion. It doesn't have to be 7 bits either, just anything more than one. |- Bit 1 |- Bit 2 |- Bit 3 Drill Chuck -|- Bit 4 |- Bit 5 |- Bit 6 |- Bit 7
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Feb 25, 2008 16:48
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I know I can do a fairly simple jig, I just wanted to do all 7 at the same time. It would save time and have the cool factor built in. I have a crapload of terminal blocks that I need to remove screws from. Each block has 7 screws. Fun fun.
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Feb 25, 2008 19:53
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CapnStubby posted:I'm in search of a very simple line frequency meter. You can make one :o) http://www.sparetimegizmos.com/Hardware/AC_Monitor.htm
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Feb 26, 2008 00:44
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The 28.4V doesn't sound too bad to me. It definitely should not be 110V. Have you considered getting a programmable thermostat? They're a lot more accurate.
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Mar 4, 2008 19:16
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Feathers posted:
Check out the "wick" part of this video: http://hackedgadgets.com/2008/01/14/surface-mount-soldering-tutorial/
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Mar 26, 2008 02:08
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I've just begun installing laminate flooring in my living room and dining room. I can't decide what to do about the trim molding. Right now, the current trim goes all the way to the sub-floor. I figure there are two options: 1) Remove all of the trim, put the floor in, and put new trim. 2) Leave the trim there, install the floor, then install quarter-round. Any ideas on which way is better? Unfortunately, I am leaning towards option 1.
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Mar 28, 2008 16:34
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SynMoo posted:
If you disconnect the thermostat all together, does it still run? You could have a shorted wire. Seems doubtful, but worth a check. Do you have access to the relay at all? If so, you can measure the coil-side to see if it's powered when it's running and not supposed to. If you don't have power on the coil and the fan is running, the relay contacts are probably shot.
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Apr 15, 2008 20:36
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SynMoo posted:I pulled the relay assembly out today. I realized that it's much more complicated that just a relay...time delay and all of that. Are you sure it's the relay though? In your googling, is it a common failure mode? I just wouldn't want you to spend $30 and have it not be the relay. That would suck. I found this and seems to match your predicament. http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=263113
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Apr 16, 2008 01:47
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Anonymous Name posted:I just bought a 10" Ryobi Drill Press and am trying to use it, but the drat chuck keeps coming off the spindle! You're supposed to hammer the chunk on, and I spend a good minute hammering it on, but it still keeps coming off after a few minutes of drilling. When it's hammered on properly, it shouldn't come off at all. The drill bit should spin before the chuck comes off. Are you sure it's all the way on? You really have to hammer on it (pun intended) until it's all the way on.
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Apr 17, 2008 14:32
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Hardware Tate posted:At work yesterday, a customer came in and asked if I could cut him a key. I told him sure and took him over to the key duplicator and when we got there he took out two bits of a mail box key. This was actually the first time someone had asked me to cut a broken key, and I initially told him no, I couldn't do it. Is it a USPS mail box? If so, I believe it's illegal to duplicate. I would think as long as you can get in the duplicator without it moving, you should be able to copy it.
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May 12, 2008 14:24
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If it is 220, you can probably disconnect it from the panel and run 2 new 120 lines. That should be plenty for an office I would imagine.
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Jun 6, 2008 14:35
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Soup Dragon posted:I have 16 aluminum lever door handles that have some white gloss paint around the edges due to crappy painting, any advice on how to remove the paint please? Magic Eraser http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melamine_foam
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Aug 22, 2008 17:13
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nwin posted:Definitely not worth its own thread, but I have the need to vent and want some suggestions. What about a sheet of plywood? Or some 2x10's for the wheels to sit on. Beyond that, I have no idea.
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Mar 9, 2009 01:58
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The bottom of the router itself will sit on the surface of your wood. The bottom of the bit has the collar that hits the side of the wood. You should be able to adjust the height of the bit relative to the router. That's all there is to it. Try on a practice piece, it'll be obvious when you do it.
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Apr 20, 2009 14:34
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WILD ANAL ODOR posted:I'm looking for a place to find some aluminum tubing that's hollow but pretty thick so I can thread the inside of it for use in a cane. Have you tried Mcmaster?
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Nov 5, 2009 15:16
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A Fancy Bloke posted:I'm reclaiming a trailer from former tenants. They have left a dog odor that is down to the actual wooden floors after we stripped the carpet and padding out. Does anyone have a solution that will get rid of odors like this? I am kind of desperate, as I am moving into this place in 3 weeks and the place really needs to not stink after we lay down the new carpet. My friend had cat piss smell when he moved into his place. He painted it with Kilt oil-based primer and that did a good job of sealing it up. Might be worth a shot.
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Nov 9, 2009 19:02
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I'm going to be replacing the shower faucets in my bathroom. The problem is the valve coming in doesn't shut off all the way, so the line leaks. I live in a condo and there are no shut-offs for each unit. It's essentially one giant water system. Is there any way that I can repair the valve while the water is on? My only option at this point is to call in a plumber, which I don't want to do. I could shut off the main to the building, but that would piss off a lot of people. What do I do?
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Jan 31, 2010 18:48
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slap me silly posted:Have you talked to the people in the condo office, if there is one? At this point it's a community problem. The water wouldn't need to be off for long but there may already be an established procedure for this involving warning everyone the day before. I have not. I just discovered this today and the office isn't open on weekends. I will be calling tomorrow morning to find out what to do. Most likely they will want a certified plumber to replace the valve.
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Jan 31, 2010 19:10
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:If it's a small trickle, you can shove a piece of bread in the pipe. Old donuts work well, too. Once the valve glue sets, the water dissolves the bread. It's more than a small trickle. If I put a piece of bread in it, it will only last 5 minutes or so, if even.
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Jan 31, 2010 19:58
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kid sinister posted:If you're renting, then it's the landlord's responsibility to fix your faucet and they'll most likely call it their handyman to do so. There may even be something in your lease that prohibits you from doing any work yourself. It's a condo. I own and am responsible for everything on the inside of the studs.
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Feb 1, 2010 01:13
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Not Memorable posted:How have you determined that there are not individual shut-off valves for each unit? Could you just not find one or do you know that for a fact? If you are billed independently for water I have a hard time imagining that there's nowhere to shut it off for just you. I verified that there are no individual shut-offs. The water is billed to the association and added into our condo fees. I have access to the utility closets and it's all definitely one big system.
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Feb 1, 2010 16:19
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Fatty Patty posted:I have a very, very small backyard. About the size of a bedroom, around 12'x12', maybe a bit bigger. I'm interested in making a small garden...what are my best options for plants (ie plants that don't need a ton of space, or that I could grow in pots), and how small can gardens actually be to be worth it at all? I enjoy gardening and would love some fresh veggies this summer. When should I start planting? Where you live would be helpful. My uncle has a veggie garden that's roughly 5' wide and 10' long and he gets a ton of stuff out of it.
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Feb 17, 2010 15:05
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I was prepping a window frame to paint it and apparently a previous owner put some scotch tape on the molding around the frame. I removed the tape, but it definitely left some sort of residue behind. It's not sticky, but it is shiny and I'm concerned that the paint won't adhere. What are my options? I was thinking I could just sand it a bit and hopefully that will get rid of the residue.
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May 8, 2010 18:54
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eddiewalker posted:Very similar products. 3M General Adhesive Remover is the same thing, but in aerosol form. Ok, I tried goo gone and it did not work too well. It was getting the adhesive off, but it would have been a long process. I'm just going to sand it. New question: I painted a room with latex paint. Some time after that, months or so, I painted the trim around the door and window frame. I admittedly did it sloppy and got white paint on the blue wall paint. Any way to get it off? Should I try just re-painting over the messed up spots? I tried a Magic Eraser, but that did not work.
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May 12, 2010 03:39
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NerdPolice posted:
Do you know if you have metal studs throughout or are there wooden ones as well? If you have wooden studs, you could probably pre-drill a hole in the metal sheeting so the screw has clearance. When the screw tightens into the wood, it'll suck the sheeting back in. You'll still have to fix the area that already cracked though. Some joint compound, little sanding, etc, etc.
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Jul 6, 2010 17:17
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you ate my cat posted:-Does anyone have any tips or tricks for keeping a project warm? I've been thinking of building a box and siding it in plastic sheeting, then warming the inside somehow, but I'm not sure how I'd do it safely and cheaply. Any other ideas? Bringing it up into the house is a nonstarter because the fumes give me a ridiculous headache after a little while. What about building a box and mounting a couple of 100 Watt incandescent bulbs in it? Should be enough to keep it warm without the risk of fire.
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Nov 20, 2010 04:25
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taqueso posted:Very rough estimate: 200W! That's a bit high. That would be a CRT power rating. LCD's are roughly 25-50 Watts depending on the manufacturer. So: 336 Watt-Hours / 50 Watts = 6.72 Hours However, you need to include the equipment to run the monitor.
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Jun 9, 2011 16:51
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You can grab a short piece of 2x4 and stick it in there. That's what I do with mine and it doesn't have any weight on the plastic at all.
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Jun 9, 2011 22:14
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That would be stippling. I have that at my place. It's fairly difficult to match, but it is possible. You do need adjust the thickness of the mud to get the depth that you need. I had someone do it for me because it was a large area. All I can say is......good luck.
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Jul 18, 2011 15:49
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Are there any remote air valves out there? We have a compressor in the back room of a shop and it's a pain to get to, but we have to turn it off every night and on every morning. The compressor itself is always powered, we just shot off the valve coming out of it. I'd love to have a switch or something in an easier to get to location to remotely activate the valve. Such a thing exist and affordable?
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Aug 26, 2011 15:25
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Plastic Jesus posted:This may be the wrong place to ask but I found no other threads on SA even mentioning Arduino and nothing on Google, so please indulge me. There's an electronics thread. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734977
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Sep 13, 2011 13:22
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The Human Cow posted:Last night I tried to plug in a computer in my study, where I already had 2 computers running. I didn't think it'd be an issue, because I've had as many as 8 going at once in there (I repair computers at home after work for extra money). As soon as I plugged it in, it killed power to the whole room. I went to check the breaker box because I figured that one had just flipped, but none were out of position. I tried flipping all of them off and back on, but no dice. What did I do? What can I do to fix it? Did you plug into a power strip or an outlet? Some power strips have their own breaker on the end, usually a little black thing that pops out.
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Jan 4, 2012 17:09
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The Human Cow posted:I have no idea how old it is. The house was built in 1962, so anything's fair game. Of course virtually nothing in the box is marked, and stuff that is was done in pencil God knows how long ago so it's so faded you can barely read it. I'll have to see if I can figure out which one goes to that room and replace it - thanks for the instructions If you have a non-contact voltage tester, you can take the cover off the panel and check the black wires coming out of each breaker. That'll tell you if there's a bad breaker and is fairly safe so long as you don't jamb your hand in there.
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Jan 4, 2012 22:11
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The Human Cow posted:As far as I can tell, that breaker controls only that room. I can't get a read in any of the outlets or the light switch with the voltage meter. Is the next step taking the ceiling fan down to see if that's getting power? I would take each outlet/switch cover off and try measuring with the non-contact tester. There's got to be a break or a loose connection somewhere, most likely where the wire connects to something.
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Jan 7, 2012 20:39
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VikingKitten posted:Yeah, but I've got multiples of some sizes, a couple of big spade bits, a couple of drill and tap metal bits, a dowel drill thing, just a random collection of bought-as-needed crap. Using hdpe is a good idea, thanks! I just got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Huot-Wire-Gauge-Drill-Dispenser/dp/B002N2XK2S/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1331595408&sr=8-16 Nice little thing. It's pretty solid. Only problem is the holders are a little short, so anything over 3/8" or so doesn't fit. There's space at the rear of each drawer for larger bits, but you can't put them in order.
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Mar 13, 2012 00:39
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Got a strange little situation. I live in condo and had removed a coat closet shortly after moving in. The phone line came in through the floor to a service jack that was inside the closet. The line then continued up into the ceiling, which I assume went to the phone jacks in the living room and the bedroom. Naturally, I said "I have a cell phone and I'll never need a land line for anything", so I diked the wire right at the floor. I also had to replace some of the subfloor. Now I am looking at getting DSL because it's a lot cheaper than comcast and I want to reconnect my phone line. Any thoughts on how I can do that. I thought about cutting a decent size hole in the sub-floor, maybe with a 4" hole saw. That'll let me get in there and hopefully splice in a new phone line, but I have no idea how to get it into a new spot. I don't know which way the beams run, but either way, how can I get a wire into the wall and up to a jack, all from a small holes 6-8 feet away??
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May 18, 2012 17:44
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I have an issue with my entry way door and I'm not sure what to do about it. When the door opens or closes, the far edge hits the frame. It looks to have about 1/8" space when the door is shut. This is a metal clad door with spring hinges, so I can't shave it down or easily adjust hinges. The picture has approximate dimensions at each corner. I thought about trying to shim the bottom hinge, but I think it would make the top of the door hit the frame. Any suggestions?
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Jan 8, 2013 02:44
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emanonii posted:I had the same issue with multiple doors in my house. When doors are installed, at least one of the screws is supposed to be replaced with a longer screw (like 3"), but no one ever does it. This is to tie the frame of the door to the framing of the house. Over time, the shorter screws slip a bit, and you get the issue that you have now. Try replacing the screws that hold the top hinge to the frame with longer screws. When you screw the screw in, you probably won't notice any difference until you close the door. Well, I finally bought some screws and gave this a shot......worked like a charm! I didn't even notice a difference, but it no longer hits. Hopefully it stays that way. Many thanks.
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Jan 11, 2013 02:16
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