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Today I opened the water tank on my toilet (adjusting the amount of water per flush) and saw these odd globs on the three bolts that hold the tank down. I took one of them off (it appeared to be originating from the top of the bolt), and with some pressure it crumbled in my fingers. The larger of the three globs:  The inside of a glob:  These bolts are less than two years old, to give an idea on how quickly this grew. The grout in my shower is also tinged pink, so I am thinking hard water, which means that the fix would be a water softener, correct? Or am I completely off since this looks more like rust than the white deposits I see on Google images and need something else? City water from the Detroit water system, so the water should be coming from the lakes, and new copper plumbing in the house. If anything, I think this problem is recent since the bolts were nowhere near this bad when I changed them and I think they were a decade or two old.
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Feb 21, 2008 02:01
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Xanderg posted:Is there any chemical I can use to clean this out or something that doesn't require me to purchase new pipes, go under the house to fix the pipes, etc? Air plunge it. I tried chemicals, hell, I was about ready to rip apart the plumbing and scrape that crap out, but I used one of these (actually, the one I had was a 3 use disposable one), and it actually worked EXTREMELY well. One blast and the pipes were flowing free and clear. Actually, just try that first. Just make sure you plug up the overflow drain first.
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Feb 21, 2008 04:46
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kapalama posted:I shut off the water to my house to replace a supply valve to my sink. Now the water will not come back on, even though I have reopened the main valve. Is it possible that something in the main supply valve came apart and is blocking water to the house? Does the main water valve just spin in your hands? I had that happen. The stem broke and let me tell you, that was fun. Is your problem your main valve (what happened to me), or just one of the branch valves? If it's a branch, turn off main and replace valve (use a ball valve. I love those things!). If it's your main that broke... oh boy, you are in for fun. Lucky for me, my uncle is a plumber. You have to turn your water off at the main (look at your lawn and you will find a small metal water department cover. You can try turning it somehow, but I don't recommend it. There is a specialized tool for the job (I think they sell them at Home Depot/Lowes). Now... you could do this part yourself, if you are really good at plumbing, but really, miss a little and you have to go outside to shut off the water.
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Feb 22, 2008 08:29
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Willie Tomg posted:Is there anything I can do to mend the fracture to make it totally watertight again, or do I have to get my rear end out to Wal-Mart and start pricing new coffee makers?
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Feb 23, 2008 21:14
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Feathers posted:Is there some store where I'd have better luck finding a proper iron for this or some sort of hairbrained scheme I could try? Something like this. No clue if this is actually the tip you want, but it can give you an idea for what to get. I use a small tip on my 40w iron for doing SMT like that.
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Mar 26, 2008 01:54
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mcsuede posted:This is why you should always have a 100 pack of disposable rubber gloves in your toolbox. Also your nightstand, but that's another thread. If you're REALLY grossed out, you really don't want to replace the wax ring under the toilet, but you probably should. Small update on my problem. I discovered that I have a pinhole leak in a pipe's solder joint and even though the pipe and connection is less than 2 years old, there is a stalactite growing out of it so I think I might have hard water. Time to get a test kit!
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Apr 3, 2008 05:19
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uh zip zoom posted:hey, anyone know how to get the adhesive from engineered floor off concrete slab? We are ripping up the floor in our kitchen, and the glue isn't coming with it. Floor grinder. That's what they usually use. Heat could help, but you have to worry about fumes/fire. It's going to be a lot of manual labor, unless paint thinner/some other chemical softens it enough.
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Apr 7, 2008 02:42
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Pleads posted:I'm assuming that the ceiling beam is what is actually supporting things, and as long as I leave it alone things will be cool, but I want to be certain. Best way to tell if the wall is load bearing is to see if you have metal poles or I beams holding up the beam. If you don't, there is a chance it's load bearing. If you have the poles/I beams, there's a very low chance that it's load bearing. If you are hesitant to do anything, you could always get some support poles, but I doubt that they are needed. Post pics so we can see if you have any doubts.
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Apr 16, 2008 05:08
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Anonymous Name posted:I just bought a 10" Ryobi Drill Press and am trying to use it, but the drat chuck keeps coming off the spindle! You're supposed to hammer the chunk on, and I spend a good minute hammering it on, but it still keeps coming off after a few minutes of drilling. That much friction would wear out the bit, not cause the chuck to fall off.
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Apr 17, 2008 08:09
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FilthyWalrus posted:It was manufactured September 1991 and is made by Phillips. I'm pretty sure it's a CRT. Is it worth it opening it and trying to figure out what's wrong, or should I just trash it?
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Apr 19, 2008 08:53
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kri kri posted:Can power spray painting things be used indoors? If so I am going to buy one. Yes, they can be. Just tape up doors, cover stuff that you don't want paint on, that sort of thing.
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Apr 28, 2008 22:16
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lanochediablo posted:I just bought a bright pink Hannah Montana mp3 player on discount and I want to paint it black. It's made of a hard plastic and I was wondering what kind of paint would be best for this? Should model toy paint work or is there something better? Plastic dye would be the best, but other than that, model paint or Krylon for plastics would be pretty good.
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May 4, 2008 04:55
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Pissingintowind posted:Now, after seeing a deal at Home Depot for a Ryobi One+ starter kit, I'm kind of questioning myself. BUT I will agree with Sapper: Sapper posted:Get some Walmart/Sears brand tools, learn how to use them, then decide if you need better tools. Ryobi = Home Depot's brand, and I forget Lowe's brand, but the same thing. I'd just suggest corded over cordless. Cordless is convenient, but battery replacement sucks. I love my Ryobi random orbit sander to death, and I've re-sanded a few floors and walls with it. If you kill one of the cheap tools, it's a sign that you need something better. Citizen Scheibe posted:A friend's dad did something similar with a halogen headlight in an ammo box, but he used a motorcycle battery which cost upwards of $100. Fire Storm fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Jun 15, 2008 |
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Jun 15, 2008 04:04
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ChaosBorg posted:Since 2 nights ago, my toilet is sort of backing up.
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Jun 27, 2008 12:31
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Electrical question: According to code, if underground rated power cable is not readily available, can standard cable be run in a buried conduit? Looking to get 100a of 240v out to my garage, 80ft behind my house. I am also considering just getting the power utility to just give me another drop at the garage, since it's right underneath the local transformer. On that note, is there an easy way to tell if it's a standard single-phase transformer or a 3-phase?
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Jul 15, 2008 23:51
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Tai-Pan posted:I am desperate, is there anything I can try? 1. Tile removal 2. Turn off water, Un-solder the pipe, remove shower head, open valves and blast air or water down the pipe from the shower head down. Cakefool posted:Give me all the details, I'll look it up in the 16th edition (you are in the UK right?)  More guessing than anything else. I could likely get away with 60a, but I don't want to go much lower. I am planning for the future, in case I decide to upgrade to a better TIG welder and air compressor (those alone are rated at 240v/20a and 120v/20a respectively). Yeah, I was getting retardedly high numbers too, in the 4/0 range (200a service AL wire). The transformer looks like it's 3-phase (3 wires at the top for input)(doesn't it need a neutral/return? too?), and maybe I'll post a photo later. As for accounting costs, I'll have to check and see. Might be worth it.
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Jul 22, 2008 05:38
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maplecheese posted:My mother-in-law, who is kind of Another scented oil (peppermint for example) could cover up the smell. Over time the smell will lessen at least.
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Aug 8, 2008 01:27
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about chemicals
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EssOEss posted:What's going on here? This can't be right, can it?!
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Aug 10, 2008 22:32
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quadreb posted:Looking for the best (legal, OTC) local anesthetic to be applied topically and (inevitably) subdermally for some quick DIY surgery. Any suggestions? You do know that you now have to go into detail about what you are doing, right? If you are really as crazy as I think, I'd say go for the localized dental numbing stuff for toothaches whos name is completely escaping me right now. It's sold next to the toothpaste.
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Aug 20, 2008 12:13
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I am thinking about including a safety kill switch on my TIG welder incase someone opens the door while I am welding. Should I put the relay between the switch on the TIG handle itself or just kill power to the whole unit? My thinking on the handle is that if it cuts power there, at least some more gas flows out of my nozzle and doesn't gently caress up the weld. LDJohnson posted:I want to repaint my motorcycle by myself, I've got the basic plan set. Does anyone know of a good suggestion for an all-weather paint that works on plastic and metal? Krylon could work, but I'd suggest automotive touch up paint. Most works on metal and plastic (check the can first)
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Sep 20, 2008 16:12
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mister_gosh posted:I have a tiny lightbulb (think christmas light size) which I want to keep forever lit. I tried a 9V battery hooked up via a small copper wire. I'd say a solar cell with a recharging system, maybe a super-cap from one of those new instant recharging cordless drills, or a NI-CD battery. If you really want it to last longer on a battery, I'd say use an LED.
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Nov 10, 2008 03:56
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My stone oil burner just developed a micro-crack in the bowl and now water drips onto the candle. Is there any epoxy, glue or something else that can seal the crack, and is water, oil and heat resistant?
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Nov 16, 2008 21:07
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Nubile Hillock posted:Anyone know where I could possibly get a DC electric igniter?
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Nov 19, 2008 05:18
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dakana posted:What would be the simplest and most cost-effective way to make something like this? The sound would be my own recording. This would be the simplest. You can probably find one locally for a decent price.
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Dec 19, 2008 07:28
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Local Yokel posted:If you have a recommendation, that would be helpful, but I guess I'm just looking for any good resources others know about. Word of advice though. I have a side-by-side model, and after using it for a few years, I wish I got a different one. Feels like I can't get as much in there as I could with my smaller freezer on the top model. Not too fond of the slide-out freezer models because the slide out mechanisms waste a lot of space to me. Water dispenser/filter is very nice, as is an ice maker (I don't use my ice too much because the ice always tastes freezer burned. That's what ya get for frost free freezers, I suppose.)
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Dec 20, 2008 06:16
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Deegan posted:I'm wondering is there any danger in simply wiring it up and turning on the power to see if it works?
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Jan 1, 2009 01:13
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STFU Pumpkinhead posted:The water temp in our shower fluctuates greatly.
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Jan 3, 2009 15:16
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Well, I only ask because when I set my tankless a little too high, I compensated by turning the cold on a bit higher when I took a shower, which caused an odd cycling like that. If a tank system, I think you need a new fill tube (I think that's what they are called). Before my tank destroyed itself, I had something similar happen when the tube broke. Hot for a few short minutes, then a quick cycle. The tube is a fairly simple replacement.
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Jan 4, 2009 00:28
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courtney_beth posted:I am looking for drawer pulls, silver bar style, that have a center-to-center measurement of 14 inches or 355 millimeters. 13 9/16 http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60138759 12 1/2 http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50113919 12 5/8 http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00116699
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Jan 12, 2009 15:17
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Xoobee posted:Anything I can try before a plumber needs to be called in? If it's totally clogged, get one of those air blast plungers. I thought they would be a gimmic, but my god they work wonders. You just have to figure out a way to completely cover the overflow for the tub (plunger held over it might work)
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Jan 18, 2009 12:47
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Adding some silica gel packets (the ones that remove moisture) would help if you really want to remove humidity concerns.
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Jan 29, 2009 21:13
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jackpot posted:Except for all those damned batteries!
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Feb 6, 2009 22:01
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Local Yokel posted:Hmm, the driveway has been covered in snow and ice pretty much since we've moved in. Perhaps it is part of that. I will check when I have an opportunity. The fun thing is that the main shutoff is likely filled with much and you will need the hose to clean it out and the mains shutoff wrench to shut off the water (I think those are available at Lowes now a days). Now, are you looking for the water shutoff that is normally near the meter?
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Feb 17, 2009 22:06
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gross posted:I have a natural gas dryer left in my house by the previous owner. It's a Whirlpool LGB6000KQ1, fairly new looking. Get a multimeter, grab that chart (mine was behind the main panel (the one with the dials)) and test every component that you can.
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Mar 30, 2009 23:40
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Don't trust home depot to make precision cuts. Get a straight piece of something and clamp it to your board to use as a fence for your circular saw. gross posted:Update on the dryer.
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Apr 3, 2009 21:13
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I have a cheap thumbdrive (USB memory stick/jumpdrive/USB Flash Drive/flash drive, since so many people use so many different words for them) and the cheap as hell plastic shell came off and I want to put my own cover on it. Would something like Clear Polyester Casting Resin work or do I need to go for something more along the lines of an actual electronics-grade epoxy potting compound?
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Apr 11, 2009 05:08
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jackpot posted:How do I get this thing off? Post photos before you do anything though. Want to make sure I'm picturing this right.
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Apr 11, 2009 06:11
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jackpot posted:That putty-looking stuff scrapes off with my fingernails, but other than that I don't know what it is. I sprayed a little WD40 around there in the hopes of working its way into the threads and loosening it up a little, but it did nothing. gross posted:The putty-looking stuff is (I hope) thread sealant. It's probably doing its job and preventing stuff leaking through the threads. Try using a pair of pipe wrenches if you can buy or borrow them, because I can't imagine channel locks giving you a very good grip on that. You're probably doing just as much squeezing as turning.
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Apr 12, 2009 22:04
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Uziel posted:Is there some type of sealant or foam or something I could spray around the panels to seal them that would also be safe to use in the nursery?
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Apr 14, 2009 13:50
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Fire Storm posted:I have a cheap thumbdrive (USB memory stick/jumpdrive/USB Flash Drive/flash drive, since so many people use so many different words for them) and the cheap as hell plastic shell came off and I want to put my own cover on it. Would something like Clear Polyester Casting Resin work or do I need to go for something more along the lines of an actual electronics-grade epoxy potting compound? If anyone was interested, I used Castin'Craft EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy and it seemed to work quite well. I tried embedding an LED it in to see if it works, and it worked fine, so I created a mold for the thumb drive and it still works nicely. The mold didn't work great (leaked), the drive shifted, but it's sealed so that works for me.
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Apr 25, 2009 17:00
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