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Bzzz posted:What's the easiest way to take care of the black stained spots? Is there anything I can do? The best method would be to treat it. I haven't tried these methods, but they could work: http://www.homeimprovementsdepot.com/how-to-remove-black-urine-stains-from-hardwood-floors-for-under-a-dollar/ http://www.ehow.com/how_2266989_remove-stains-from-hardwood-floors.html
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Apr 25, 2009 19:46
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Well, an auger bit on your drill and a saws-all COULD work, but that would be tedious as hell. Chainsaws are really not that bad, as long as you do it safely.
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Apr 28, 2009 04:37
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They are on eBay: Auction. Another one. All Shipping is like $80+ though, and oddly enough, 3 are in Michigan. There are 5 on there right now. You could always DIY one too, if you wanted. I think most of them are just coolers where you need ice, and the few I have seen that are electric are not that good (thinking they just use a thermoelectric cooler instead of a gas compressing one)
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Apr 28, 2009 07:15
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stubblyhead posted:What is this thing, and why is it filled with water? I'd watch it. but it's likely nothing. You might want to go to Lowes/Home Depot and get a plug for that.
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May 10, 2009 07:13
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hey santa baby posted:Anybody know what this little gadget is called in English, and where one would go to get one? You use it to make little tapered pilot holes for wood screws. Yesterday I tried to explain this to some dude at Lowe's, but he had no idea what i was talking about. Don't know if it's a different term for woodworking, but it's a tap in metalworking and is sold in a Tap and Die set at Lowes. Fire Storm fucked around with this message at 08:11 on May 11, 2009 |
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May 11, 2009 08:09
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That Which Squeaks posted:Could anyone with experience give me a rundown of my options,
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May 31, 2009 04:36
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Ok, odd little DIY project here. About a year ago, my self-propelled gas mower died, and after cleaning the carb, replacing the spark plugs, testing for spark, I couldn't get it to run on gasoline (I was able to get it to run off of propane from my pluming torch, but that's beside the point). I stopped loving with it and bought an electric (corded) mower. The problem is that the electric mower is not self propelled, and with a property as large as mine, it gets a little difficult to push (and I am just very used to self-propelled mowers). I want to convert the electric mower to self propelled, but I am not sure exactly which way to go and wanted a second opinion. Old gas mower is a 21" deck, the electric is 19" Should I: A. Just hack/bodge the old mower body with the electric motor? The old mower used a pulley on the main shaft that engaged the drive system by simply moving another pulley forward, causing the belt to grab and start moving. I'm just not sure the motor has enough power for both. B. Just add a second motor for the drive to the electric mower and power it off of the same power cord? My concern about this is that there may not be enough power to run both, given the motor is rated 15a, as is the extension cords that I use. C. B, but convert the mower to 240v (120v for each motor)? Understandably a pain in the rear end but would be one of the only 240v electric mowers in the US, I bet. D. Second motor for drive, but use a 6/12v battery to power it? Seems rather silly to me. E. Some other plan I haven't thought of. I would prefer not to go back to a gas mower, because I like not dealing with gasoline (and honestly, if I did, I'd just convert it to propane or natural gas).
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Jun 8, 2009 00:33
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neogeo0823 posted:My firey DIY project has hit a bit of a snag. I need to make an igniter. I was hoping to make something portable, so battery powered, and I can't use a BBQ lighter due to material and space constraints.
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Jun 11, 2009 23:19
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neogeo0823 posted:Unfortunately, even the loosest of piezo triggers requires too much pressure for the application I envisioned this thing for. Try something like this. If you had more space and cash, you could do one with a automotive ignition coil or neon transformer. EDIT: You know, thinking about it, what's basically a neon transformer in a smaller package? A compact fluorescent ballast. Fire Storm fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Jun 13, 2009 |
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Jun 13, 2009 04:54
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neogeo0823 posted:I'm already playing with fire and risking getting burned
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Jun 13, 2009 05:43
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Blowupologist posted:Demand a replacement? That's what I would do. I am suddenly reminded of my parents clothes dryer years ago that was less than a week old that had 2 failures at the same time: The drum stopped turning and the sensor that shuts off the rest of the dryer (such as the heat and blower) failed at the same time. That did not end well. The store was very helpful and gave us a replacement within about 48 hours.
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Jun 19, 2009 23:50
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belt posted:Is RG59 cable sufficient for a cable modem
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Jun 24, 2009 05:14
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IMJack posted:This is the first time I've had problems with this thing and I don't know where to begin or how much it's going to cost me.
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Jun 28, 2009 03:47
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nwin posted:And then right where it goes into the part above the furnace, ice is on there. It melts away really quick so it's not like a huge brick of ice, just a sheet.
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Jun 28, 2009 19:17
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Comrade Milton posted:I'd like to be able to use some neobdynium magnets that I have to hold things closed. The magnets are small and I'd like to find a metal of small thickness (say under 5mm) and in circles of varying size. Can anyone point me to the right place? Will it be something I'll need to have done custom? Worst case, order: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/categories.asp Jake Gittes posted:That being said, can I walk into an engraving shop and have them burn some lettering on to the thing, or do I need to go to someone that works more with leather? Or is this even possible? ABSOLUTE worst case, you can do it with a soldering iron, but my guess someone can do it for you. OH! Laser engraving would work FABULOUSLY on this, and there is likely someone around you offering those services.
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Jul 12, 2009 06:55
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Comrade Milton posted:I was really after just discs of metal I could use
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Jul 12, 2009 19:12
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Not Memorable posted:I'll take the bait! JB Weld totally saved my laptop. The part the connects the LCD frameout to the hinge busted. Took it all apart, squirted in some JB weld, clamped it up, works like a champ still. It takes a LOT of pressure/movement and is holding up great. HP DV9000 or zv5000 series? I did that too, then after that failed, I got a hinge off of ebay and made it fit.
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Jul 30, 2009 06:43
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kid sinister posted:First thing's first, the shell will be easiest to paint if you take out its innards. I don't have a 360, but look at the screws on the backside. Does it use regular Phillips screws, or does Microsoft use some security screw type? Google says it's a T8 secure (A t8 sized torx with a hole in the middle) As for coloring... there are plastic dyes. Would those be good?
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Aug 1, 2009 04:12
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The Aphasian posted:2. If we can't get hold of him, would my ridiculous plan of using a fish-tank pump on a timer, with the output tube running to a nearby sink, be an okay solution? Kaiser Bill posted:In browsing the home depot and lowe's websites, it looks like they sell spray-on lacquer for like 6 bucks. Feasible?
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Aug 4, 2009 04:29
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belt posted:It's just more convenient because I live in a small town and I'm about an hour away from the nearest store that sells anything more than RoundUp. Well, keep in mind that you will likely have to pay hazardous materials fees on any shipping of weed killer.
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Aug 9, 2009 00:25
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Jewbert Jewstein posted:Will a simple lexan sheet work? I know it's MUCH cheaper than plexiglass...
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Aug 13, 2009 03:43
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Jewbert Jewstein posted:Upon further research, gently caress Lowes. They're about the same price according to google. Which is better in this case? And for this dual pane thing, do I just put one over the other? There's nothing else to it? To do the dual pane thing, it would be a bit of work. Seperate the panes by about a quarter inch, get one piece whatever thickness you want and one piece either half or 2/3 as thick. HOW you make the frame is up to you. Easiest would be to get quarter/half inch square wood, get the plexi/lexan cut to the size of the hole, and cut the wood so the frame is flush with the lexan, glue/nail and pop it in. EXAMPLE: If the hole is 16" x 16" and you are using half-inch wood, cut 2 pieces 16" long and 2 pieces 15" long. If you want to be fancy, you can make a doweled butt joint, or nail the corners. Look at a regular double pane window to get a rough idea of what I am talking about. Slightly more difficult but better method would be to make a wood frame with grooves cut inside that hold the panes in place, which would be a little more like cabinet making. I know I am explaining this very poorly. If you are interested in this, I can MSPaint something that would at least give better details. Would this be worth it? Not a clue. Although now I am tempted to do that with the windows in my garage that need replacing. I am curious... is this in your actual house? There is a hole in the wall and this passed code? Can you give photos?
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Aug 14, 2009 04:01
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edit: ignore
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Aug 15, 2009 06:01
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That front cover should come off fairly easy, so that's what I would do. Take it apart and use a vacuum for most of it and toothbrush/pipe cleaners for the harder bits.
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Aug 24, 2009 01:45
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Heat. I think that screw setting glues soften a little with heat, so a blast from a hair dryer could help.
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Sep 13, 2009 23:23
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NashAsh posted:Do they make screw extractors that small though? There is this set on Amazon. If not that, you could always heat harden a cheap screwdriver tip. Blowtorch or gas stovetop, heat the tip then quench...
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Sep 14, 2009 02:20
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Is there any exterminator that excels in wasps over others? Or should I just call Orkin/Terminix and a few local companies? I somehow have wasps in my house (a wiki search makes it look like a yellow jacket, sand wasp or something not fuzzy and armored looking), I know roughly where the nest may be, but I can't figure out where they are coming into the house from. I'm averaging about 3-4 wasps in my kitchen, I've checked all the screens in the house, gone as far as to tape/plastic up every exhaust fan in my house, torn off molding/trim and foamed the crap out of the resulting gaps, and I've stopped using the door near the suspected nest. For some reason they seem to love my kitchen window.
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Sep 23, 2009 07:06
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ease posted:Kayak, both pointed in the same direction.
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Sep 24, 2009 06:33
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D-Pad posted:Quick question about the DIY forums... The project has been moved to a blog.
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Oct 13, 2009 17:27
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joozy posted:how would i go about fixing this without ripping out the whole shower? First, turn off at least the water to that faucet, if not the whole house. Underneath the knob, there is a little screw to remove it. Remove that. Remove the decorative chrome ring. THEN... You should be able to remove the valve assembly with a wrench. Clean and/or replace that. Video
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Oct 26, 2009 04:29
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El_Matarife posted:Is WoodWoker's Hardware the best place to buy drawer slides?
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Nov 18, 2009 08:54
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brad industry posted:My rolling chair has worn into the hardwood floors of my rental apartment. What's the easiest way to fix it up? Some kind of wood polish? If you're looking for a "get your damage deposit back" fix, lightly sand, match a poly/stain mix and apply. If it's deep, sand, use wood filler (if deeper than it is wide), then stain and poly.
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Nov 21, 2009 04:20
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dv6speed posted:Yes, most laptops have the connector soldered right on the board. Of all the motherboards I replaced in laptops under warranty, almost a 1/4 of them had to do with broken power jacks. After replacing the connector a good half-dozen times on my older laptop, I did a pigtail connection where the actual connector was outside of the laptop, connected with a good 4-6" of braided wire. A hack for sure, but even with a new connector, the solder kept snapping off the connector, so I said hell with it. If you don't want to deal with Mouser, most of the connectors are on eBay too. You just have to know EXACTLY what you are looking for.
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Jan 24, 2010 09:23
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dv6speed posted:WTF do you do to that poor machine? Rape it violently at night or something? Na, the connector was crap. The plastic in the connector would crack if I moved the cord slightly wrong. Hell, it was recalled, they fixed it and it broke within a month. I wasn't rough, it was just a very crappy component. My other laptops went their entire life without a single connector problem, it was just the connectors on the one laptop.
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Jan 24, 2010 22:21
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Leperflesh posted:dv6speed is referring to polycarbonate lenses (for prescription glasses). Polycarbonate is the same stuff used for bullet-proof plastic. It is also popular because it's much lighter-weight than glass lenses, although it is a bit more expensive. Correct. You can get prescription safety glasses, but really, I think safety goggles that fit over your regular glasses are a better choice (simply due to cost for multiple pairs). I normally use my prescription safety glasses with a face mask when I am dremmeling or something similar. (Also I gotta get me one of those cutting disks) VVVV Very true. My biggest problem is cost, since it normally means I need to buy 3 pairs of glasses (or at least replace 3 sets of lenses) per year (reading/computer, standard, safety). (I refuse to get bifocals, so no combining the regular and reading/computer) Fire Storm fucked around with this message at 09:07 on Jan 26, 2010 |
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Jan 26, 2010 07:37
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My first thought was it's some sort of glass working tool.
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Jan 27, 2010 20:19
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Any interest in weird metal cylinders and bars likely from the post WWII period that are supposedly used to determine angles?
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Jan 29, 2010 08:39
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Iron Squid posted:a small submarine
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Apr 30, 2010 21:53
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Flay Minion posted:Additionally, with a sander you need some form of dust abatement or you'll be months getting the dust out of everything. If it only kept the smell of the poly out of my furnace so wouldn't be reminded of my finished floors for the first few weeks of using the heat.
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May 6, 2010 07:09
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Lyric Proof Vest posted:i've hosed a usb key that has something fairly important on it. Should have had it backed up i know but i can't do that now. Basically upon cracking it open it seems that knocking the key has bent the connectors and they are now all detached from where they were soldered. I've tried bending them back and holding them down with a plastic card but it isn't working. any suggestions?
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May 20, 2010 04:47
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