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I think we're going to need a bit of clarification on this. Do you mean there's a 3" unfinished gap that drafts and insects are coming into, or do you mean there's 3" of clearance underneath the tub for you to work with while you seal? Assuming it's the latter, standard RTV silicone sealant will do the job. Thoroughly clean the mold first (use a standard household cleaner, according to the Wisconsin DHFS bleach isn't necessary), dry the area, and then apply a bead of RTV. You can either get it in a small tube or a caulk gun cartridge. Let it dry for 24 hours before using the tub again.
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Jan 7, 2008 22:32
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elsanto posted:My clothes washer's discharge hose sprung a leak, so I cut in half, joined the halves with a barb, and then hose clamped them. The hose still leaks a little, and after try ing PVC cement and a rubber adhesive to stop it, I am out of ideas. Is there a compound or adhesive that would stop leaks in a plastic hose. What the hell is it? If you're unsure where to get tubing or which tubing to use, remove the tubing from the washer and take it with you to Home Depot or Lowe's. Also take note of any particular fittings or whatnot that may need special attention. Or, if you're really lazy, seal the whole thing with RTV. As much as I love RTV, I'd suggest you go the other way.
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Jan 8, 2008 04:57
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RobertKerans posted:One of my electric oven's hobs comes on every time I switch it on at the wall. I'm a lazy bastard, and I've put up with it as it's ok if I'm doing stuff on the hob, but otherwise is getting pretty annoying. How do I fix this? Is it as simple as just replacing a fuse? So you have a wall switch that turns your oven on and off? What about the switch controlling the burner itself?
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Jan 8, 2008 17:22
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Zionist_en_fuego posted:What resolution or image formats should I be working with? How much could I expect to pay to print about 9 or 10 posters on quality paper and have them framed? If you have a Ritz camera nearby you're in luck. You can send them a digital image and they'll blow it up. Their website tells you what resolutions are good for what size posters; I think I did a 20x30 poster with a relatively low-resolution image (I think it was 1024 x 768, or smaller).
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Jan 8, 2008 21:50
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Zionist_en_fuego posted:I'm not in america, but could you link me to that chart, i cant seem to find it. Did the poster come out well? What paper did you print it on? They were printed on photo paper, and the poster came out perfectly. The website is here: http://www.ritzpix.com/net/OrderPrints/ I can't remember where the chart was on the website, I think you had to upload pictures first. You could always call them, or look for a local equivalent. Places with printing services should be able to do it.
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Jan 8, 2008 22:29
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RobertKerans posted:No, the dial controlling the specific hob doesn't matter, the element just comes on every time I turn the power on to the entire oven. Sounds to me like a problem with the switch then, especially if the other burners function properly.
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Jan 9, 2008 20:27
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IfIWereARichMan posted:Where can I buy clear paint? I want to mix it with phosphorescent powder and paint some crazy poo poo on my bedroom walls My understanding is that Future Floor Finish is a clear acrylic compound. I use it when painting my miniatures.
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Jan 10, 2008 05:38
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Ambrose Burnside posted:How can I affix brass to painted aluminum? It'll be a rather small and detailed logo, and I want it to eventually be removable without having to get in there with a chisel. Is it something that will be moved a lot, or subject to a fair amount of stress? If not, you could use double-sided tape. A drop of superglue would also work, although there's no guarantee it wouldn't peel the paint. Basically any low-grade adhesive will work. Silicone RTV, superglue, etc. Just be sparing with your adhesive.
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Jan 17, 2008 03:55
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Ambrose Burnside posted:It'll be taking a lot of abuse (as in, it'll be grafted to the side of a paintball gun I'll be hefting through brambles and covering in mud), but I might want to remove it later, too. I was hoping for something you could easily remove with solvent. Well you have a couple of challenges ahead of you. For starters you'll probably want to bend the brass piece around a wooden dowel that's the same diameter as the barrel. That way you can ensure the piece stays flush with the barrel. As far as actually adhering it is concerned, I can't think of a way to adhere it that will later be easily removed. You could try superglue and then later use acetone, but the solvent may damage the paint as well. Personally I would just accept that my barrel is going to permanently be property of the Emperor and use epoxy.
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Jan 17, 2008 15:31
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Deacon of Delicious posted:I have a piece of wood with a hole like in the top picture. I want to route away some of the wood in the red area in the middle picture so it would like the bottom picture from the side. It's sad because I know the correct answer is "Use a router. Doofus." But that's not an option for me. I'm not sure if there's a reasonable way to do that without a router. Is it necessary that they be a single, solid piece? Depending on the application you could look at cutting out the whole area, and then nailing or gluing in a couple strips of wood.
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Jan 19, 2008 05:19
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Death Pants posted:well the hits just keep on coming. While doing laundry tonight my electric dryer decided it no longer wanted to dry the clothes but rather just tumble them around for an hour or so. When I asked the dryer if it was still under warranty it laughed and then threw a sock at me. As happy as I was to have the missing sock back, I'm still upset that it no longer wants to do it's job. Sounds like a problem with the heater unit. A quick Google search has linked to this website, which seems to be pretty thorough.
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Jan 19, 2008 17:41
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Deacon of Delicious posted:I was thinking about using a chisel, but I'm working with MDF. I need to buy some files anyway, I might use them on a piece of scrap I've got laying around and see how that works. It will be nice one day when I'm no longer in an apartment and can have all the loud power tools I want. What about a dremel? Could that possibly work? EDIT: http://www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/router.html They aren't horribly loud.
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Jan 19, 2008 20:58
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^^^^^ This man speaks the truth. Wear safety glasses and a respirator when working around dust. Your lungs will thank you later by not getting cancer.
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Jan 20, 2008 02:29
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BulimicGoat posted:My futon has broken. There is a long board connecting the two ends of the futon, (I picture it like a letter H, but with a long "-") and it has split at one of the joints, where the screw connects the end piece and this long board. Does anyone know how I can fix this? I was thinking wood glue to glue the board back together, then splint the main board with two pieces of wood or use metal brackets to re-secure the end piece to the main board. A picture would be really helpful here, but generally I prefer to replace broken pieces with fresh bits of wood. Depending on the shape you should be able to find something at a hardware store, and then cut/drill it to meet your requirements.
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Jan 22, 2008 01:22
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I definitely agree that some kind of support is needed here, as just attaching it to the wall won't really do much. I think some kind of mounting bracket would look really good, especially if you used it to hold the scroll a few inches away from the wall. That would establish a nice 3-D effect, and depending on how the brackets worked out they could complement the scroll nicely. Does the wood stick out of the edges of the scroll at all? According to The Internet they weren't supposed to be hung at all, and your best bet is some kind of frame. I still think brackets holding the artwork away from the wall would look cool.
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Jan 22, 2008 03:21
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Medikit posted:That explains a lot. I updated my original post because I messed up the pictures. It shows the scroll rolled up. I can definitely grab the wood. Perhaps a bracket can hold the wood on one side and then on the other I could have a catch of some sort and wrap the end of the scroll around it since it extends beyond the wall. That sounds doable. Or you might want to look at two brackets, since the method used to hold the first end would probably work just as well on the second. quote:One problem with this is that the left wall is concrete. Not a horrible problem. A hammer drill, concrete bits, and some anchor bolts will make this less of a problem. Or you could liquid-nails the bracket directly to the wall, seeing as how this isn't exactly a heavy item. If you're renting I would not recommend glue.
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Jan 22, 2008 04:35
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Hoga posted:Jesus didn't mean 14" PVC is cheap enough that you could at least give it a shot with a small project. You should also consider looking at various material offerings from places like https://www.mcmaster.com, as you might find something you like there.
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Jan 22, 2008 20:32
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gross posted:I want to run an electrical cord into a watertight plastic container. I have used silicone sealant for this in the past, but it just doesn't bond with plastics as well as it would with glass, and an accidental tug can break it loose. What are some other cheap methods of sealing the spot where the cord passes through? The problem might be that the plastic is too smooth. Regardless of what method you use to seal the cord, rough up the plastic a bit with some coarse sand paper and then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. That will clean up the area and give it something to adhere to. I could see epoxy working well in this situation. Run the cord through the plastic, and then fill the gap with epoxy. Once the epoxy cures it should form a very solid, very waterproof plug.
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Jan 23, 2008 16:27
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gross posted:Thanks, I might try one of those after another run around the hardware store. I've actually been meaning to pick up both for other reasons, so it wouldn't hurt. I've recommended it before, but if anyplace has it https://www.mcmaster.com would. I don't work for them.
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Jan 23, 2008 17:14
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Cybor Tap posted:Is it true that if I just dump water down the drain it will flush? How much do I need, and is this a viable way to survive for the next few days? Yup. Just grab a gallon bucket or so and fill it full of water. After you use the bathroom, dump it in there and the pressure will suck most of the contents down the drain. It's not the most pleasant thing in the world to do, but you'll be fine for a few days.
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Jan 26, 2008 22:20
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Milka posted:Would there be any interest in this forum for a vegetable gardening megathread? Now's the time to start thinking about ordering seeds and setting up for spring planting/transplanting. I think I could put together a decent OP. I think this forum is young enough that anyone or anything could still get in the ground floor.
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Jan 28, 2008 15:15
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The System posted:I didn't want to make a new thread about something that has an answer online. I have a question about the online answer. Generally these machines are pretty easy to take apart and repair. Just make sure it's unplugged and that you note what steps you took to get inside.
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Jan 31, 2008 15:18
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jackpot posted:I'm moving in a few months into a place where the walls are about 90% brick on the inside, and I'm gonna need to hang stuff of varying sizes and weights. I'm renting and will eventually have to leave the place in good shape - so how do I go about securing my various racks, picture frames, and bookshelves to a brick wall without leaving giant holes all over the place when I'm gone? With these: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Command/home/
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Feb 15, 2008 00:16
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Optimus_Rhyme posted:What's some good software for planning a room? re-aranging furniture etc? A quick check on Google found this: http://www.cfg.gov.uk/service/room%20planning/cfg_service_free_software.html You can also do it pretty easily with some paper. Just cut out shapes representing the outline of your furniture, and draw the outline of your room on a larger sheet of poster paper. Make sure everything is to scale, and don't forget things like entrances, windows, and power outlets. It's archaic and time consuming, but it's probably my favorite way of doing it.
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Feb 15, 2008 00:22
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Fire Storm posted:Well... superglue could work (but could give an odd taste and might leak again), as could a few other things, but given how cheap a new one is, just go get a new coffee pot. The carafe itself is less than $10. No need for a whole new coffee maker. Amazon.com also has replacement carafes. Just do a search for "replacement carafe" and see if something there would fit. As a rule I would suggest not heating tempered glass that's already cracked.
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Feb 24, 2008 21:39
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It could be a faulty component. I'm not terribly experienced with water heaters, but if it's less than a month old wouldn't it be under warranty?
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Feb 25, 2008 16:05
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disgraceful posted:Would cheap sticky strips of rubber insulation from the local shop fix this? (Rubber extrusions) I'm anticipating my estate agents doing nothing (Customer service is a paradox in France, I've discovered over three years of other things not being fixed in my place), and I want anything to fix it. What about a small toilet door bolt across the top, to stop the top part flexing in? Something like this across the top might work. How is the window latched shut now? Just across the bottom? 
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Mar 10, 2008 14:47
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disgraceful posted:I'm thinking of giving that bolt a shot, anything to watch out for, or is the rubber a bit better to seal it? Hrm. I was thinking of a different style window and the rubber might be a better solution. Does the window hinge in the middle, or on the top? I would look for some very thin adhesive-backed rubber of closed-cell foam (you can get it at https://www.mcmaster.com) and put it between the window and the lip. Try a variety of thickness and hardness values.
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Mar 10, 2008 15:21
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ClockworkZero posted:I've got an interior decorating question regarding paint, hope it fits in here. Not looking for a big discussion, just a couple of quick answers (if I should make a separate thread about it or put it in A/T let me know). Is there any particular reason you generally see trim like baseboard and door/window trim painted a ligher (generally white or off-white) shade than the wall, rather than the other way round? I'm picking out paint colours and was thinking going dark on the trim might add some contrast, but I never see it in magazines or pictures. Personal taste aside, I was just wondering if the reason you don't see it is because it generally (or universally) looks bad or something. I think it's supposed to serve as a highlight that defines the edges and other features.
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Mar 13, 2008 01:29
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Is the plastic chipped, or is it just dented?
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Mar 18, 2008 14:40
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stubblyhead posted:I posted this in the main Ask/Tell small questions thread, but didn't get an answer. Since it largely pertains to home improvement sort of stuff, I thought this thread might have one for me. Personally I use Pro/E, but that's even more expensive than AutoCAD. What kind of project are you trying to do?
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Mar 25, 2008 02:16
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RoyalRock posted:Just from what I've been able to gather just from walking around in the attic and by the basic look of the plan I don't think any of the walls are load bearing. But I have one of those friend of a friends that happens to be a structural engineer and said he'd give me a good deal on his expert advice if I decide I want to do it. Personally I would talk to a real estate agent and ask for their opinion on what it would do to the value of the house. I mean, what's preventing you from calling it a 3BR house still? The only difference is the presence/absence of a closet. I would be very surprised if any of those walls were load bearing. stubblyhead posted:Ah, Pro/E. The MechE students used that when I was in college. When people would leave the Sun lab without logging themselves out, we would start Pro/E and log them out, because the systems were configured to start all the applications that were running at logoff at the next logon, and Pro/E took like 10 minutes to load completely. But to answer your question, I don't have any particular project in mind. I'm doing some electrical work in my house, but I could do the planning for that just as easily on paper. I'd just like to have a basic cad program, and I don't need anything fancy right now. There's an open source program called avocado, but it looks like it's fairly new. That's pretty mean. And awesome.
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Mar 25, 2008 14:53
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Schizoguy posted:Is there a reason why toilets use chains? Mine sometimes kept running, and I got told that there was a kink in the chain; just jiggle the chain. Works, but couldn't I just replace the chain with, say, some fishing line? I don't have a solid answer, but speaking as an engineer I would suspect it's because they don't stretch (like fishing line would), and because you can easily alter the length by connecting to a different link on the chain. If there's a kink in the chain, why not open up the toilet and fix it?
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Mar 28, 2008 01:10
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Schizoguy posted:That's what I do each time it happens, but it happens pretty often. There's probably some other underlying problem, but in the meantime, I was looking for a more permanent solution. It might also be a pain to install, and has a fair chance of unraveling and coming loose. If it's an issue why not replace the chain with another chain?
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Mar 28, 2008 02:11
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El Kabong posted:I've got some recessed bathroom ceiling lights that are missing several round pieces of glass about 5 3/8in in diameter. I called around, and to get replacements cut it's going to cost me about $20 a pop, which is more than I want to pay given the free time I have available right now to figure out an alternative. Could you give a better description of the piece, or maybe a picture? I prefer https://www.mcmaster.com for most of my material purchases, so they might be able to help you.
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Mar 31, 2008 21:00
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Alaan posted:I am going to be moving into my own house for the first time in about a month. As such, I need to get myself at least a basic toolkit set up because there will be some stuff to do about the place. Here is my current list. Tell me what I'm missing! What kind of power tools? My general rule is that I don't worry about a tool until I need it, and then I go out and buy it immediately. Still trying to find a way to need a nice mill and lathe. Being able to afford it would be nice too.
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Apr 1, 2008 20:35
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You probably want to use a plastic-specific dye. If you can, contact the manufacturer of that particular item and ask them what kind of plastic is used in their chin strap. You can then do a search for "plastic dye" and make sure it's suited for whatever plastic is in your chin strap. Most dyes will probably work on the plastic, but in general it's best to make sure the products match.
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Apr 5, 2008 05:17
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Anonymous Name posted:Nah, it's 1/8"-thick steel; I can't neatly bend a small part of it like that. In this case, those two existing cuts are either 1/4" or 3/4" long, and the red line is 1/2" long. Cut into the steel deep enough with the cutout tool that it scores a line between your previous cuts. Repeat this on the other side. Then bend the steel tab back and forth until it breaks. You could also cut diagonal lines across the tab to remove triangles of material. Both of these methods would require you to use a file to finish the job.
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Apr 6, 2008 06:31
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pukeduke posted:I have an idea for a small plastic kitchen utensil that would need to be custom fabricated. Does a service exist where I can send someone a CAD file and they'll fabricate it to my specs? Depends on the complexity of the item. There are most likely at least three machine shops close to where you live, and depending on the complexity of the item they might be capable of fabricating it. If it's a complex shape, like an actual fork, then things get more complicated. For a one-off run of a complex plastic shape your best bet is probably some kind of rapid prototyping. It's expensive, but if you want a demonstration model that actually looks decent then you would probably need to go with something like stereolithography. Unfortunately one-off parts of any description are incredibly expensive. Can you give us a bit more detail about the item?
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Apr 7, 2008 02:29
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pukeduke posted:Yeah...it's shape is more akin to a bowl than a fork or plate...Ideally I could get like 500 of them..so I'm not looking for a one-time thing. Bulk discounts ahoy! https://www.protomold.com is a good choice then if you would like it to be injection molded. I've heard good things about them, and at the very least their website will let you see how easy it is to injection mold your part. They'll take a common 3D model (.iges, .stp, even Pro/E and others) and use their automated process to determine the ideal method of injection molding it. There are also plenty of local places that may be competitive from a fabrication standpoint. Here in MD Chesapeake Plastics has developed a very good reputation.
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Apr 7, 2008 03:12
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