Fix it Fast: The Early Years 2008-2020

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GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

GWBBQ posted:

Why can't I go a week without a major home repair lately? Yesterday, the kitchen sink suddenly stopped completely. I tried snaking it with a small snake, a slightly larger one, and even a closet auger, and no success. A whole bottle of Drano Max did nothing after four hours ("clears fully stopped drains in 15 minutes," my rear end,) so I assumed that it was corrosion building up and finally clogging it like had happened with my shower. I got some new PVC and sawed out the 60 year old iron pipe downstairs from just above the pipe that goes through the concrete up almost to the ceiling and the clog is above that.

The inside of the pipe was pretty gross, grease buildup had narrowed the 2" pipe to around 3/4" and there was an abundance of that wonderful black sludge that inhabits drain pipes. I tried running all 3 snakes up from below, but after putting about 10 feet in with no more resistance several times, I'm assuming I'm just running it up the vent. I pulled the trap of and tried snaking it from upstairs again with no success. I put the wall elbow back in upside-down to give me something to pour into and put some more Drano into it, but it's been sitting for 45 minutes with no results. I'm out of ideas.

After all that, this worked on the first try. All the snaking and and drain cleaner probably softened it up just enough that the boiling water melted the grease that was plugging it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duhOTVgaUP4

SkunkDuster posted:

Is there a trick to cutting the hole for mounting an electrical box like this one?

(my hosting)

It seems if you cut the circular hole to fit the inner part, you'd have to also cut away a bunch of notches to accommodate all of the protrusions. If you cut the circle large enough to fit all the protruding parts, that would only give about 1/8" of lip.

Either way is fine. That box isn't for load-bearing installations, so a 1/8" lip is plenty and the pressure of the wall plate against the drywall or plaster will provide a bit of extra stabilization.

# ¿ Mar 19, 2012 19:21

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# ¿ May 22, 2024 17:15

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Fuzzy Mammal posted:

A hopefully quick toilet question:

Inside the tank of the toilet, there are two vertical tubes. The overflow one for draining water, and the source one that's attached to a flotation device that fills the tank. The source column also has a little flexible tube that goes straight into the overflow tube.

For some reason, after flushing, the water to refill the tank *only* comes out of that little tube, and straight down the drain. It'll sit there forever without actually filling the tank. I don't know what triggered it, or what to adjust to fix it. Any help appreciated!

The fill valve is broken. A new one is about $10, take the old one with you to make sure everything matches up.

# ¿ Apr 20, 2012 07:51

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

you ate my cat posted:

I'm going to be doing some lead casting, and I have a 3m 7512 respirator with the P95 filters and the R6001 organic vapor cartridge. Anyone know if that's going to be sufficient? I've been looking and I can't find much either way besides "Use a respirator with the right filters! Brain damage!" Obviously I'll be doing this outside, etc etc.

I don't want brain damage.

OSHA requires full face respirators with HEPA filters at minimum and powered air pressurized respirators if employees request them. You'll probably be OK with yours if you use good safety goggles and do it outside, but if it's more than a one-time thing you should step up the protective gear.

# ¿ Apr 22, 2012 05:28

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Use finish stripper to remove it then apply new wax

# ¿ May 2, 2012 22:50

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

I have a bunch of hollow wall anchors at work that I intended to use to put eye bolts into drywall. After I drill the pilot hole and tap them into place, screwing them in doesn't make them expand like they should, the whole thing rotates with the screw and the tabs that are supposed to hold the anchor into place turn the anchor into an auger bit and bore all the way through the wall. Any ideas?

# ¿ May 28, 2012 19:44

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

My bedroom light is a two-socket ceiling fixture controlled by a dimmer switch. If I replace one incandescent bulb with a 12w Philips AmbientLED, it works fine. If I replace both, they flicker like crazy at full power or dimmed. Can I assume it's because it's an old switch and not a leading edge dimmer?

# ¿ Jun 20, 2012 04:08

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

thelightguy posted:

Well his options are using a proper modern dimmer, which has like an 80% chance of working (more like 100% since he's using high quality Philips LEDs) for $25 and change or buying an externally controlled fixture and the necessary hardware to feed it DMX, which will have a 100% chance of working and a $2500 price tag.

Trust me, I install this poo poo for a living.

I ended up just going wtih an on/off switch since I rarely use the dimmer anyway. That price sounds pretty good; at work, the electricians charged us $1500 to install 8 non-DMX dimmer switches in place of regular switches :suicide:

# ¿ Jun 28, 2012 18:02

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Kaluza-Klein posted:

I am at a house with a Pfister Price kitchen faucet that is driving me mad. Unless you lift the handle ALL the way up, it quickly drops down, shutting the water off. Also, when you raise the handle ALL the way, it will drop back down after a minute or so and the water goes off.

Is this some sort of terrible feature, or is there something that can be done to fix it?

If there's a cap with a logo on it, pop it off and tighten the screw under there. If not, there's a screw on the front of the handle and you need to tighten that.

grover posted:

Nah, there's nothing dangerous in a VCR. Just be careful if you remove any gears or springs to ensure you get them back exactly the same way you took them out; drives can be very finicky that way.

Take pictures before you take it apart and label anything you remove otherwise your VCR is likely to never run again.

# ¿ Aug 5, 2012 04:00

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

kid sinister posted:

In my opinion, vice grips are a tool of last resort, for when you have to get off a stuck fastener that won't come off any other way and will need to be replaced anyway. Then there's always nut splitters, cutoff wheels and cold chisels.

I refer to them as "the unfucker." Something is hosed? grab the unfucker. Something happen that makes you shout "gently caress!" grab the unfucker. Nut rounded? screw head stripped? nail head broke of when you were trying to pry it out? need to hold a nut in place in a tight spot? you're hosed, unless you have your unfucker handy.

# ¿ Aug 28, 2012 02:39

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Wagonburner posted:

We shut down an old office and I've inherited a portable air conditioner from there. I'd like to use it in my garage but I don't want to make it anywhere close to a permanent install. It has a 5" exhaust tube, could I somehow adapt that to a bunch (how many?) of 1" pvc tubes on the floor that I could shut the garage door on?

You would need 20 1" inner diameter pipes to get the same cross section, have fun playing with reducers and elbows.

# ¿ Sep 4, 2012 22:47

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

You might be able to get away with a liberal application of flux and heating it until the solder flow in and seals the holes, but if that doesn't work you'll have to remote it and prep the ends again.

# ¿ Sep 10, 2012 16:41

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Solkanar512 posted:

So I'm a fountain pen nerd, and I have a few inkwells with machined anodized aluminum caps. In cleaning off a bunch of really nasty inks, I stupidly soaked these things in undiluted household ammonia and the next day most of the anodized coatings were removed.

My bad, that was really dumb and so on.

So what sort of things are out there that can add a colored coating to these parts? Can I do anodizing at home, or are there paints/other coatings? They won't receive any major wear and tear except for the parts on the insides which screw on to the ink bottle themselves.

Any thoughts on a protective, color coating I could feasibly apply at home?

You can get DIY electroplating and DIY powder coating (don't use an oven you use for food to bake it) kits. Next time you need to clean one, try soaking it in hairspray instead of ammonia.

GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Oct 4, 2012

# ¿ Oct 4, 2012 23:02

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

You can try a longer snake that you can attach to a drill, but if you used a closet auger and it didn't help, you're probably out of luck unless there's a cleanout fitting you can get to downstairs (if you're opening the cleanout below a clogged toilet, cut a neck hole and arm holes in a garbage bag and wear it to reduce the risk of being covered with poop.)

# ¿ Oct 13, 2012 01:44

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Splizwarf posted:

Well, there's always Sketchup.

Seconding this. Take a few minutes to go through their instructional videos. Draw your floor plan with lines and rectangles in top down view, then use the pull tool to make it 3d. If you want to build models of any furniture, watch the one on building a chair from a solid block with the push tool. The program is useful and fun to play with, and prototyping stuff before building it/having it built will make you feel like a wizard.

GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Nov 6, 2012

# ¿ Nov 3, 2012 04:10

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Amstrad posted:

A friend of the family is looking to paint some text/logos on to the side of a pool table, the front of a couple cupboards and the seats of a couple stools. I'm being asked (and paid if I do) to tackle the project as I'm apparently the only vaguely handy and artistically inclined person they could think of. The logo itself is just flat white and I figure I can just make myself a basic stencil to get it onto the wood, so the artistic end of this is covered, my real concern is that I'm assuming I'll be dealing with varnished wood and I'm afraid anything I paint onto it is just going to chip or flake right back off. Especially in the case of the bar stools. Sanding all the varnish off and repainting from the ground up isn't really an option here, does anyone have any idea what I can do to make this work?

Is painting it on then varnishing over that an option?

# ¿ Nov 30, 2012 16:43

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

I have the same coffee pot and I'm pretty sure there's a layer of glaze over it, so it's probably not worth the effort to remove. The pot is a great way to go OCD/mad scientist on your coffee, though.

# ¿ Jan 12, 2013 04:51

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

stubblyhead posted:

This reminds me of something I've been meaning to ask about actually. The exhaust fan in my bathroom has been sounding really rough lately. It's not a grinding sort of sound, just much louder than before. I've taken the face plate off and cleaned out what dust I could, but there's nothing stuck in the blades and the motor is still turning. I'm guessing the bearing is shot and it'll need to be replaced, but is there anything I can try before going to that length?

I tried to fix my bathroom fan when it acted similarly a few months ago and ended up concluding that the squirrel cage rotor had gone off balance slightly and ground itself down out of usable range by grinding itself on the stator. You're probably looking at replacing the whole unit unless you can find a part number on the motor.

# ¿ Jan 16, 2013 05:15

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Seconding the Dremel Multi Max. I got one when I had to replace a large section of my bathroom floor and sub floor, and it's perfect for that.

# ¿ Jan 27, 2013 01:54

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

For the floor, you'd want to drill holes and use big bolts, so that's probably out of the question for a rental. If you're willing to rip up the drywall and repair it when you move out, cut out the drywall, nail 2x10s to the studs, and drill holes for toggle bolts.

# ¿ Feb 15, 2013 21:17

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

kid sinister posted:

First off, turn off that fixture and probably the circuit too if you aren't confident.

I don't care how confident you are, turn off the circuit before messing with wiring.

# ¿ Feb 18, 2013 05:12

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

horriblePencilist posted:

It's spread evenly and looks kind of like sand. Right now, we're using steel wool to scrub everything off, with very slow results. I was thinking of using a belt sander, but that would shred the plastic into bits. I was hoping we could use something with corrosive or loosening properties, but I guess we'll have to do it the hard way.

You can get steel wool pads for floor buffers, that would probably spin slowly enough to keep it from doing damage.

# ¿ Apr 27, 2013 23:24

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

I was going to suggest bifold doors, but that's probably not as sturdy as you want.

# ¿ May 5, 2013 17:39

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

socketwrencher posted:

I could really use some help on this- thanks:

My sister bought a house and the ceiling joists are uneven. I'm trying to figure out the best way to get them on the same level in order to install drywall.

It's a small rectangular house bisected by a ridge beam of sorts in the middle, so the ceiling is angled like an A-frame (it's an odd-looking structure, more like a big shed than a house).

The joists from the front end of the house slope up to the ridge beam; these joists are fine and the drywall is up. The joists from the beam to the back end are the problem- each one is slightly off from the others.

Just wondering what's the best way to level them? Any help would be seriously appreciated- thanks.

If they're off by less than 1/8" you can use cardboard drywall shims. If it's more than that, start with 1/8" wood lath and use shims to even it out from there.

# ¿ May 20, 2013 15:45

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Rubiks Pubes posted:

My house has a water softener that isn't hooked up. I went and looked at it tonight and at first thought it was just unplugged, but found later that the other end of the hose (which appears to be a supply line) has been disconnected. The hose ends in a male threaded fitting. Where would be the likely place for it to have been connected?

The system appears to be OK, I plugged it in and it turned on and responded to button presses etc. not sure why it was disconnected, the people I bought the house from said they didn't even know there was a softener here.

The supply line should connect to a water supply pipe. You need to replace the salt as routine maintenance, maybe it was bypassed to avoid having to do that.

# ¿ May 27, 2013 01:57

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

the posted:

Not sure if this warranted it's own thread or not. In our house we have this upstairs "storage room." It's about 8x8, roughly, with a small door on one side to access. The door itself is about 3x3 and is a few feet off the ground so you have to climb into it. It has rough wooden flooring.

I've thought about making this some kind of lounge/gaming area, with pillows and a TV on one end, maybe some low shelves with books, etc. Maybe a shag carpet.

The problem is two-fold: One, the door, like I said, is only about 3x3, so nothing huge can go inside. No couches, no big TVs, no big chairs. It is also just opposite the stairs, so nothing extremely long can go inside either.

Any ideas for what I could do with it, and furniture that I could fit inside? Thanks.

Drape curtains from the center of the ceiling out to the walls, cover the floor in gaudy pillows from TJ Maxx and Homegoods, and make yourself an opium den. But don't actually smoke in there because

canyoneer posted:

Unless you and all your friends are hobbits, you should be concerned about escapability in case of fire.

and even if you and your friends are hobbits it will be a death trap. Aside from the fire risk, electronics will make it even more unbearably hot than your average attic room. I can't imagine code allowing you to use a room with a door like that as an occupied space, anyway.

Alternately, figure out how to get a grand piano in there and enjoy your new take on the ship in a bottle.

# ¿ Jul 23, 2013 01:25

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

eddiewalker posted:

Despite prerinsing everything and using a name-brand liquid soap and rinse agent, my dishwasher leaves sandy, gritty deposits on my dishwasher. I've tried running an empty load with a few cups of vinegar, because old ladies on the internet suggested that, but it didn't help. Any other ideas?

Get down to where the pump takes in water at the bottom and see if the filter is dislodged or clogged. If it's dislodged, everything cam get by it. If it's clogged, the water pressure will be too low to reliably rinse everything. You can either find your repair manual online or just start taking it apart until you find something that looks like a filter. If there's a chopper on the filter, make sure it's securely in place and that the spring holds it securely against the grate, otherwise it's not doing you any good. The OEM ones are expensive ($30-40,) but the third-party one I got on eBay for $8 sucked.

# ¿ Jul 31, 2013 19:28

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

I have a Weil McClain furnace with a Suntec A2Va-7116 oil pump and Tigerloop with about 30 feet of oil line running from the tigerloop to the oil tank and a filter mounted right above the tank. A few weeks ago I replaced the filter housing (cracked the old one because I'm a dumbass and didn't use a torque wrench,) cleaned the furnace, and it ran fine for about a week with the Tigerloop intermittently filling with foam, which I fixed by cleaning all the fittings and applying fresh pipe dope. A week later, it started squealing a tiny bit for a few seconds at a time while running, which has escalated to screeching so badly over the past few days the entire time it's running that it wakes everyone up at night.

The squealing seems to be coming from the oil pump, most of what I can find online says that means it's the blower motor belt, which would be great advice except that the motor drives the fan and oil pump directly with keyed plastic sleeves coupling the shafts together. The next thing I'm going to try is bleeding it for 10-15 minutes, if that doesn't work what should I try after that?

Dial M for MURDER posted:

So my son managed to drop a 4" piece of plastic handle to a play broom inside our gas fires place cavity. If I turn on the fire place is my house going to stink forecver, or do I need to somehow pull out the fireplace.

Here is a little top view diagram.
code:
|----------------|
|    /  \        |
|   /    \   *   |   <----Toy
|  /      \      |
| /        \     | <--- Cavity inside walls
|-----------------
      ^
Fireplace 

If you open the access/service panel for the gas fittings and igniter, can you see it from there?

# ¿ Aug 30, 2013 17:33

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

It took less than a month for the heat exchanger on my oil furnace to plug up completely after I cleaned it. I don't have the tools to do the tuneup, can I assume it's time to call a professional in for cleaning and service?

# ¿ Sep 10, 2013 14:14

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Aflicted posted:

My backyard has a drainage/erosion problem. My house sits on a hill and the north side of it neighbors another home that is a few feet above mine. Water from their side washes toward my house and makes its way around the back corner and straight down a gradual slope. This is exacerbated by the rainfall pouring out of my gutters to join this little creek. It is beginning to take earth away from the backside of my house and I would like to take care of it before it starts getting dangerously close to my foundation. If it already isn't. This is more a request for resources to read up on. I think getting an all encompassing answer for the larger problem is not really feasible at the moment.

Look into French drains and foundation drains. If you can get a French drain a few feet from the house, re-grade so water runs away from your house and into it, and pipe your gutters into it, it might be an all-in-one solution.

# ¿ Oct 8, 2013 18:02

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Bad Munki posted:

Just don't spend $20 or whatever on coax strippers. The above cylinder stripper will do it perfectly every time and is only going to be a few bucks. But yeah, you do want at least some sort of proper tool (like the cylinder) because screwing up that metal sheath will hose your signal quality: for example, a couple punctures in that foil sheath from, say, a cat bite, can drive the signal quality to practically nil.

To expand on this, not only is cable preparation important, coax for cable/satellite RF is probably the only consumer application where cable and connector quality will make a difference. Basically any tool will be good enough for a few uses, but I'd spend the extra 10 cents on high quality compression connectors. I'm a fan of Channel Master PCT TRS-6L ends for quad shielded cable because they're weatheproof, and they've given me a tiny bit of improvement in signal/noise ratio in a few areas at work where the infrastructure is lovely and it made the difference between the picture breaking up or not. If you just go with whatever they have at the local store, cheap compression connectors and tools are much better quality than cheap crimp connectors. Please don't use screw-on RG6 ends unless you still tune your TV with a dial and you get HBO just a little fuzzy even though you don't pay for it but your neighbor does.

Qwijib0 posted:

The turning of a turbine vent doesn't add a lot use as a vent-- Hot (moist) air will still rise through it even if it's not spinning. You could safely jam it to stop the movement until you can replace the bearings.

Here's some Data!

The two lines that are mostly together are the two houses, the 3rd is outdoor ambient. The dotted line had turbine vents, the solid line had same amount of static ventilation. The turbines had a tiny effect on attic air, and basically none on roof deck. Later in the study they found turbines _can_ reduce stratification, as the Turbine'd house had an insulation temperature that was higher indicating better mixing of air.

Long story short, though, stop the noise and worry about fixing it when you have time.

I feel slightly less bad about not having fixed one of the turbines on my roof that broke a few years ago.

# ¿ Dec 6, 2013 19:37

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Totally TWISTED posted:

I am a huge retard, can someone explain to me and/or link to a good youtube video about measuring poo poo with a voltmeter?

disclaimer: all of this applies to decent quality meters. If you bought a lovely cheap one off of eBay, it probably doesn't have safety features like fuses and you should append "it also might catch fire and/or electrocute you instead of doing this" after each sentence.

First, read the manual. Then,

edit: or just watch this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW3Wj7UD-_s

GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Dec 7, 2013

# ¿ Dec 7, 2013 19:03

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

BoyBlunder posted:

Drink it out of a mug like a human being.

You are a killjoy. Check your local arts and crafts store for food safe ceramic glaze that you can cure in a home oven.

# ¿ Dec 30, 2013 03:14

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Nail down the track stops anywhere they seem loose, replace them if they look to be in bad shape. Borrow or rent a carpet stretcher and look at guides on restretching carpet to see exactly what you need to do

GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jan 15, 2014

# ¿ Jan 15, 2014 03:31

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

First off, the expansion tank can support its own weight only if its installed hanging from the pipe, that needs to be fixed. Expansion tank size depends on the total volume of water in the system, maximum pressure, and temperature set points. You also need to set the pressure based on that, they generally come set to 12psi but can be adjusted.

You can calculate your size here http://www.amtrol.com/support/extrol_com_sizing.html

# ¿ Jan 29, 2014 14:21

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Wildtortilla posted:

I rent a house and it has a older dryer (probably from the late 80s or early 90s). A few weeks ago I was drying a load of laundry and when the dryer finished, after going through its cool down bit, the clothes inside had a very hot/burning smell. The next day I washed old towels and as a test I threw some into the dryer. After only 5 minutes, the inside of the dryer smelled like the clothes did the previous day, so I called my landlord and they apparently fixed it. Last weekend I was drying clothes and opened the dryer a few minutes into the cycle because I forgot to add a dryer sheet, and when the door was opened I could see orange and blue flashing behind the drum. When I reached in to pull the clothes out, I pushed on them a bit, in turn pushing the drum to the back of the dryer, and I could see more orange and blue flashing behind the drum. Every time I pushed on the drum, I saw flashing. The landlord looked at the dryer again and it's apparently, "okay to use," but I still can see flashing behind the drum shortly after I open the dryer door and when I push on the drum.

Is this normal? My clothes don't seem to smell hot and like burning anymore, but I'm on edge about the sparks and flashing behind the drum. Last night was the first I tried to use it since they most recently looked at it, but I don't trust this dryer to not burn my house down. Is the dryer hosed up, or am I being paranoid because I'm under-educated about dryers?

Is it a gas or electric dryer? The light behind the drum could be the pilot light if it's an old gas dryer, and the burning could be lint catching fire from the pilot light. Are you sure it's sparking and not just a pilot light blowing around when pushing on the drum moves air around?

# ¿ Feb 10, 2014 04:52

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

kizudarake posted:

I have a set of precast concrete steps leading from my sidewalk to my side porch. It's a 5-step set. Where would I go to get a replacement set, and how much should I be expecting to pay?

I would check for local places that make them because you're looking at ~1500 pounds and delivery within 20-30 miles will probably be a flat rate. Just search 'precast concrete stairs [your city]' and see what's available. If there's nothing, Home Depot, Lowe's, or any big chain of home improvement stores should be able to order some. You're probably looking at the $500-600 for the stairs themselves plus delivery, removal and disposal of the old stairs, labor, and railings if applicable. I would guess $200-300 for delivery, another $200-300 for new railings, $50-100 for removal of the old stairs, and assuming the footing under the old ones is OK, an hour of labor for two people.

# ¿ Feb 17, 2014 20:09

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

Motronic posted:

What I'm saying here can be summed up as: stop being victims.

Tip for achieving this: check with your local United Way and see if they offer a class on renter's rights. A quick search shows that at least a few in big cities do, so give the local branch a call.

# ¿ Feb 19, 2014 02:47

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:

I'm trying to find empty lots to purchase. Is there an easy resource to search an area? Zillow seems useless. At this point I'm going to consider downloading the parcel data for the area and manually referencing that against google earth to find empty lots.

Basically I need at least a 120' by 75' empty lot, what's the best way to locate such things?

http://www.showcase.com/Vacant-Land-for-Sale

# ¿ Mar 7, 2014 20:23

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/89/carpet_stain_and_spot_lifter_22_oz/

I got a car for $300 that had been smoked in for over 15 years, and two cans took that and probably 5 gallons of coffee out of the white carpets and upholstery. Use a brush to really work it in and a wet/dry vac or carpet cleaner to pull it out. I suggest unbolting the front seats to really get the carpet underneath and pulling the back seat out if you can. Do the trunk too. Wipe down every smooth surface and consider popping off the dash and cleaning as far inside the vents as possible. You won't get everything out, but I have asthma and I was able to drive the car pretty regularly until it died.

That stuff really does deserve "magic" in its name, just make sure you're in a well ventilated area when you use it because it's mostly ammonia. Thoroughly cleaning with that stuff is the best thing short of having it professionally done, and an ozone generator is really the only thing that has any hope of completely removing the smell.

# ¿ Apr 8, 2014 21:48

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# ¿ May 22, 2024 17:15

GWBBQ: Jan 2, 2005

kells posted:

Hello, I'm just wondering if anyone knows what this sort of hinge is called?

Our shower door squeaks (more like screams) whenever we open it and the landlord just oils it or something which doesn't help, so I want to just get new hinges. They don't look like they'd be super hard to replace right??

You're looking for a frameless glass door pivot hinge. What you have looks ancient/cheap, so you may not find exactly the same thing.

# ¿ Apr 24, 2014 03:52

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