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Is there anywhere that makes horizontal blinds with different colors on each side, or top and bottom in this case? I'd like to have wood on one side, and white on the other. I could buy some wood ones and paint them myself but that'd be alot of work and likely wouldn't turn out great.
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Dec 31, 2019 03:00
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I'm setting up my garage workshop and I'm trying to find a good flooring option for the shop space. The space is roughly 10' x 20'. I'm trying to find flooring that is: - Easy to install - High grip - Smooth for rolling heavy tools/carts around - Lightly colored to help find dropped screws, keep the brightness up, and to tell when its clean The only easy option I've found is this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/G-Floor-Levant-10-ft-x-24-ft-Slate-Grey-Vinyl-Universal-Flooring-GF55LV1024SG/303800706 The only downside to this is that the width of the place is a little over 10' so there would be a small gap along one edge, and a lighter color would be good. Am I going to be able to find anything better or is this my best bet?
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Jan 26, 2020 20:19
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How does epoxy do for sound dampening or at least not echoing like hard concrete? I'm assuming pretty bad?
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Jan 27, 2020 21:33
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Lol that's not a bad idea. They'd get caked full of wood dust pretty quick but who cares. Do you have any heavy rolling equipment you use on it?
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Jan 27, 2020 21:48
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This is for a shop space so cleaning mostly consists of vacuuming dust and shavings with the occasional wipeup of spilled stain or something. No need for sterilizing or anything. The hospital flooring idea is a good one, I'll poke around that and see if there's any good options.
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Jan 28, 2020 00:26
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Jaded Burnout posted:They didn't specify cheap. It doesn't have to be cheap but I don't need medical grade flooring. Right now I'm looking at vinyl sheet cut to size by a local flooring place.
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Jan 29, 2020 23:44
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I want to add a utility sink to my garage and I have a few questions. There's already water access because the hot water tank is located there. There's also a drain next to it that would be easy to connect to that luckily has had the drywall stripped back because of another project. Can I make a T off of the input side of the hot water heater to get cold water to the utility sink? Can I also T off for hot water or does that create some weird pressure thing if I try to use mixed hot and cold water? Drain bottom right  Valve above cold water inlet to water heater 
oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Feb 25, 2020 |
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Feb 25, 2020 06:03
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Second question - I want to add a power outlet, and add a couple of lights to that same garage. The lighting right now is pathetic for a workspace. I made a lovely drawing to show the current and hopefully new layout. It's a two car garage arranged lengthwise, but I'll only ever have the one car in it so I'm planning on using the other half as a little shop space.  - I ran out of paper, the garage is longer than shown - Current layout is left, new is right. - Each square = 1 sq ft - The dashed line along the top and right side of the drawing is the edge of a duct (drywalled in) that effectively lowers the ceiling under it. This duct might be an issue for placing a light under it or a power outlet on the wall under it. - I forgot to label Outlet 2 in the new drawing but I don't plan to remove or move it. - The whole garage is drywalled, and I'm not sure if there's insulation underneath. I'll figure that out soon. The drywall isn't painted or otherwise finished and i couldn't care less if it looks like a patched up mess. There's currently a 15A breaker supplying the garage, which is pushing it with a few lights plus a power tool or two running. From here I could use help getting pointed the right way to figure out how I can wire these things in, and how to make sure it's to code and I don't burn my place down.
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Feb 25, 2020 06:18
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H110Hawk posted:You picture a breaker box, is there room in there for another breaker? Why is 15A "pushing it" with a power tool or two running plus lights? LED lights use next to nothing and give you daylight. What power tools are you running? My table saw alone supposedly peaks at 15 A. Like H110Hawk said it helps to let it get up to speed before starting to cut. The miter saw probably pulls about the same at peak. I've run both by themselves without popping it so far. If I add the shop vac running (9 A nominal) at the same time it will probably be enough to pop the breaker. If I can run 1 tool at a time that's enough for me, I don't plan on running a whole bunch of things simultaneously. The breaker box doesn't have any empty spots. I'm totally fine with surface mounting all the new wiring if it saves effort tearing up and patching the drywall and insulation, I just have no idea how to go about it. is it just a matter of mounting the outlets and lights where I want them, then running conduit with wiring between them and the current outlets and lights? oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 05:35
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H110Hawk posted:Head on over here https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739 and make an effort post with your sketches (maybe get it to a scale where it all fits on a single page), take a picture of the panel with the door open, if you know how to do it safely - with the cover off, and a picture of the general room you're working with and they can take it from there. Do you have a general level of comfort with electrical work as is? Have you replaced outlets before? Light switches? What tools do you have? That sort of thing. Depending on what you find in the panel you might be able to get some more juice out of it with very little effort so you can do things like get a dedicated circuit rolling for your dust collector, then just run 1 tool at a time on top of that. Do you have a good guide to removing the breaker box cover safely? I could go to gown removing screws but I'm guessing that's the opposite of what you mean. Other than that I'll put together the info you listed out in the Wiring thread. edit: nevermind, looked up the right way and got the picture oXDemosthenesXo fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 06:13
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I'm fixing up my new place and need to patch some large sections of drywall in the garage. There's some sections of the drywall that were removed as part of rodent removal from before I bought the place that weren't fixed by the PO before I moved in. They ripped out from the floor to about 48" up for about a 10' run, conveniently right behind the water heater and furnace. There's enough access to get to the studs for screws luckily, but I'll have to use shorter than normal pieces because of the awkward access. The removed sections were double layered 5/8" drywall (soundproofing to adjacent condos) and I'm trying to figure out how best to do the replacement. Are double layers typically put up one layer at a time, or do you put them up simultaneously? If one layer at a time, do you stagger the edges so the seams don't line up? If so, do you need to tape in between layers? What's the target screw length into the studs behind the drywall? I vaguely remember reading to shoot for 5/8" into the studs, so 1-1/4' for a single layer or ~2" for the double?
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May 16, 2020 22:55
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socketwrencher posted:I'd go one layer at a time Perfect, thanks. I did notice this notched stud in the area in about to cover up. Is this something I should fix before it's hidden away? 
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May 18, 2020 01:29
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socketwrencher posted:Nail plate it: Good call I hadn't even thought about protecting the pipe. Do you typically chisel out space for the nail plate or just slap it on the edge of the stud?
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May 18, 2020 18:41
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I have a ~6 month old dishwasher that's been steadily smelling worse and worse. I popped out the filter at the bottom of it and there's standing water down there which seems to be where the smell is coming from. Is there supposed to be water there? near as I can tell it's installed correctly with the drain line running up to an air gap, then onward to the disposal. I did run it once without water pressure going to it (forgot to open the valve on the inlet side after installation), could that have messed up the drain pump somehow?
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May 31, 2020 21:23
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eddiewalker posted:There’s always a little water under my filter. Have you tried running a load with Dishwasher Magic? We run a bottle once a month and it really helps with buildup and smells. I'll give that a shot. I've been hunting for reasons why it might not be draining and everything is describing problems with draining at all so I think you're right that it might just be dirty. I'm still a little confused still because I've had dishwashers go years without smelling half this bad but I'll start by giving it a nice cleaning.
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May 31, 2020 21:55
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I'm trying to decorate a new place I moved into, and I was hoping to get some advice on how to mount art. I've got a series of posters and maps I want to put on walls but I'm not sure what a good way to mount them is. Some of them needs to be properly framed but a others would look weird framed. I was thinking mounting it to things like foam core but I don't know if that works well. Are there any bulk sheet options like that I can use that will be durable and look decent long term?
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Jun 29, 2020 04:34
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fart store posted:I've got a 12" Hitachi 15 A miter saw (C12RSH2). Is there anything stopping me from putting a metal-cutting blade on it and using it to cut thin-walled mild steel 2.5" - 3" exhaust pipes? Super black or gatorboard seem to be solid options after more research. The specific poster(s) I'm looking to mount on board are is a set of 3 vertically arranged map segments. The point of keeping them borderless is to minimize the gaps between segments. They're also larger than the commonly stocked board sizes. The map segments are 33.5" x 44" and the standard large size of mounting board is 32" x 40". I found a couple places that sell 4'x8' sheets but that'll end up being pretty expensive with shipping and minimum order quantities. I still might go that route anyway.
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Jun 30, 2020 06:24
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Are there any paint strippers that are safe to use large quantities of indoors? The dinguses that remodeled my place before me painted all of the stair treads and chose an awful gray color. I'd like to strip it off and stain whatever wood is underneath.
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Oct 16, 2020 23:28
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I've got a full face respirator already and both sets of stairs are well positioned for cross flow so I think I'll just go for it. Sanding, even with a good dust system (which I have), sounds like a nightmare. I'll give Smart Strip a look too. Does the odor linger after you scrape off the sludge and get rid of it?
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Oct 16, 2020 23:56
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 21:23 |
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That sounds ideal then. I'm excited to see what mystery wood is underneath the paint (it's almost certainly the cheapest pine money could buy in 1998)
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Oct 17, 2020 00:10
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