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So I have been using a grout remover with the plan of redoing the grout in one of my bathrooms since it needed to be done. I don't really have the money to spend on re-tiling but I do need to at least have a proper barrier against moisture so the bathroom can be used. It seems that grout has been the only thing holding some of this stuff in place. How can I fix this? What do I need to level out the poo poo/cement board underneath?
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Aug 19, 2011 23:55
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I have a Frigidaire Dryer Model FER641FS0. The other night I put clothes in it, turned it on as normal, then a few seconds later there was a loud screeching noise and a faint smell of burning. I took everything out and checked to see if some clothing had gotten stuck or something, nothing was noticed. I put clothes back in a bit at a time and got to about 75% of the previous load size before the tumbler no longer tumbled. I downloaded to about 50% of the previous load size and ran the dryer thinking the tumbler part(s) were wearing out but otherwise it was still working. Checked back ~40 minutes later to still wet clothes and then I noticed that there was no heat/humid feel when I opened the dryer door as there usually is. So I have the problem(s) of a tumbler that's dying on the tumbling part and no heat being produced. I have consulted the above website and this one and tested the thermal fuse and thermostat per this site. The timer motor I'm not exactly sure of where it is and the heating element I think I have to take the entire drum out to access so I'm posting here hoping for some advice before I attempt that.
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Dec 14, 2011 23:05
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I haven't noticed any squeaking or other noise (beyond normal operating noise) but my dryer is also stuck out in the garage essentially so maybe I missed it. Here's a picture of the tensioner, it doesn't appear broken to me. 
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Dec 15, 2011 03:14
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PainterofCrap posted:Can you run it and observe the area photgraphed? quote:The timer motor is attached to the dial you rotatae to set your dryer type/time. You have to remove the top console to get to it. quote:Could also be the drum bearing is seizing.
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Dec 15, 2011 07:10
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PainterofCrap posted:Now that it's unplugged - can you try rotating it by hand, either by spinning the drum of pulling on the belt? Also try rotating it backwards and see if anything interesting falls out. Underflow posted:The dryer this thread helped me repair last year now blew for good after my wife put in far too much load, which resulted in the drum being ripped off one of the suspension plate's points and loosening the other two. It would still turn, but with a screeching, grinding noise. In my case I had to take the back plate and heating element off to diagnose. Hope for you that's not it, TT.
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Dec 16, 2011 22:44
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PainterofCrap posted:How does it feel when you spin it? Smooth? Bumpy? Smooth.
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Dec 17, 2011 00:33
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I am looking for some advice on a broken natural gas furnace and the potential to DIY the fix. 80PS05EAR01 - Rheem Furnace My SO bought this house back in August and woke up this morning to a cold house because the heat had stopped working during the night. Called the gas company out and they confirmed that there were no gas issues, the tech noted that the unit was failing to ignite the gas properly and was then automatically shutting off. A HVAC company has been scheduled to come out tomorrow to look at it. I was there earlier today and took some pictures, and figured out the above model information from the model number like some sort of modern Sherlock Holmes. Unfortunately the picture cut off the year of manufacture and no one is home right now to check that. *If* the unit is within the 10 year limited warranty would this repair likely be covered? Furthermore, if it can be covered how do you go about claiming the warranty? (edit: Warranty Guide - Not sure how to tell which model though, maybe a call will get it figured out.) If it isn't covered how much would the cost likely be and would replacing the igniter "thing" be something I could do with limited car and home repair knowledge and the ability to follow directions? Here is a bad picture of what I think is the igniter area: 
tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Dec 26, 2012 |
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Dec 26, 2012 02:49
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dwoloz posted:Electric ignition? Can you see any spark? Can you manually light it? I really have no idea, unfortunately I have to work tomorrow so perhaps it will be fixed cheaply by the HVAC tech during the day. If not I'll try and look at it tomorrow night to answer your questions.
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Dec 26, 2012 06:20
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dwoloz posted:Electric ignition? Can you see any spark? Can you manually light it? Update: HVAC tech came out today and decided it was the "breaker board" (as I am told by my GF) that was bad/going out and causing the sporadic ignition issues. The unit was still under warranty (the tech just called some magical number to find out) and so the part was covered (at least a few hundred) and she had to pay $100 for labor.
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Dec 27, 2012 04:22
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Any tips on how to fix this? Caused by two puppies eating the floor. My plan is: 1. Tape off surrounding area 2. Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty 3. Sand smooth 4. Wood stain to "match" the floor Is this a horrible idea? 
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Jan 26, 2013 19:49
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NoSpoon posted:Why not just replace the board? A cut or two up its length and it should come out relatively easy. A single floor board, a few nails and you're sorted. Time to show how dumb I am. How would I cut it? Circular saw but don't go too deep? (this is what I own) Where would be the best place to source a specifically sized wood floor board to be the replacement? Do you nail it on the underside somehow? I don't see any nails on the tops of any of the boards 
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Jan 26, 2013 21:18
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I was just going to use the putty that I had but matching them like that sounds logical. I'm not sure but my guess is the floor is original from the house being built in 1966, no idea on refinishing. As much as I love reasons to buy new tools I think I will attempt to putty/stain the damage first and if it's totally loving horrible I'll see about replacing the board.
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Jan 27, 2013 04:30
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I have an Electric AC unit outside of my home, inside my home in the unfinished basement is the gas-powered heater as well as an electric water heater. This picture is of the gas-powered heater (which is right at the junction of all the ducting) today with the AC on, heat off. I know the picture is horrible but it is leaking water/dripping from the junction of that pipe and the unit as best as I can tell. It is leaking fast enough to cause a nice bit of moisture and puddles on the floor of the basement as well. This is the pipe going down into some sort of other box thing (I didn't get close to attempt to read anything on it, I can if you internet geniuses can't tell what it is):  How best to fix this? What is even wrong (beyond a leaking pipe)?
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Sep 6, 2013 22:22
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Motronic posted:That is the condensate drain. It is going into a condensate pump, which has a float that makes it turn on when the reservoir fills up and pumps it out to.....wherever the (formerly) clear hose goes. Thanks for this. I probably won't be able to get around to it until later this next week, hopefully I won't have to pop back in with more questions.
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Sep 8, 2013 18:38
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Why can't you just put a curtain rod mounted to the wall above the door?
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Oct 7, 2013 04:20
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Could you use PEX and not need elbows or a notch?
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Oct 12, 2013 04:27
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For a related question. To replace my main water line from street to house I was quoted a similar price of ~5-6K. Is it possible for me to dig up the water line myself and then with an exposed water line from end to end pay a plumber to replace the line for significantly less than 5-6K since all the digging work is done? I am really asking, where is the cost coming from for something like this? For my house the run is probably 100-150 feet from street to outer wall >> water stuff is in the basement with easy access.
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Oct 16, 2013 03:12
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ShadowStalker posted:Why not just replace it yourself? I honestly just kind of assumed a job with that sort of price tag might be out of the scope of my ability. I'll do some googling but happen to have any DIY links on the topic? I want to replace mine because the line between street > house being old and small diameter is supposedly why the water pressure sucks in the house.
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Oct 16, 2013 04:15
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PainterofCrap posted:It also depends on the composition of the soil. Here in southern NJ it's mostly sand, but occasionally geology is a dick & we hit clay & marl, which are just awesome fun to pick at & will ruin your day. stubblyhead posted:I can't speak for the actual plumbing part, but a good bit of the expense for something like that is the labor of digging it all up. If you don't mind digging a trench a few feet deep in your front yard you can save a bunch of money. You know how a shovel works, right? 
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Oct 17, 2013 20:12
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I don't have any good advice for you on wall building but have you considered getting your local government to build it? I have seen a lot of sound mitigating walls going up along the local interstates in the past few years (TN). Possibly you and your neighbors could petition for tax money to get it done.
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Oct 24, 2013 06:26
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crutt posted:So the idiot previous owner of my house built this deck, with the beams going straight into the ground. Do you guys think I should just demo the whole thing? Or try and replace the rotted wood and lift the whole thing on cement blocks? Depends on how much of the wood is rotten and how many friends you have to lift the deck up while putting blocks underneath it. As I type this though I'm thinking that you really should have concrete foundations so you can have a more level finished product which may be pretty tricky without moving the deck out of the way entirely.
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Oct 24, 2013 23:22
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Motronic posted:WTF on the second. That's what jacks and cribbing are for. 
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Oct 25, 2013 00:04
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I guess I've just had two houses with lovely fencing then. Nails backing out and boards warping within 1 year.
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Oct 30, 2013 23:12
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I am a huge retard, can someone explain to me and/or link to a good youtube video about measuring poo poo with a voltmeter?
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Dec 7, 2013 06:48
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Small electronics projects involving soldering might be a good fit for your situation.
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Jan 16, 2014 05:58
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ShadowStalker posted:JB weld has some underwater epoxy that will set when weet I love it when I haven't even asked a question and come to this thread and find the answer I would have needed anyway. Alternative question: I have noticed a crack forming in my butcher block countertop, the countertop was made and installed by the previous homeowners (company that buys, renovates, and flips) approximately 26-40 months ago. I don't know if the wood is drying out in the winter or what but here is the crack:  How should I fix this or mitigate it getting worse? The countertop is ~38" wide. Currently my only thought is thinned out wood glue and a mega huge clamp (that I would have to purchase).
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Feb 3, 2014 05:07
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TheBigBad posted:You can fill it with wood filler then reseal it. I've done a repair with wood glue and saw dust from the underside of the block. Thanks. I will try and get in touch with the sellers and ask them what they have done to it and what they recommend for maintenance. My wife bought this house and I think they just told her to put butcher block oil on it. Might not have been doing that enough truth be told.
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Feb 3, 2014 05:28
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Thanks to an ice/snow mixture earlier this week, I need to fix this: This is how the gutter was attached to the roof.  My plan is to attempt bending this poo poo back straight tomorrow and re-attaching with longer screws.* My plan B is buying gutter to replace the bent and fallen off the roof section and dealing with a seam in the gutter. My plan C is redoing the entire gutter on that side. Any advice/thoughts would be appreciated. *I am at a little bit of a loss as to how I'll get the screws in. I'm thinking pre-drill holes and then I'd have to ratchet them down since the gutter will get in the way of an electric drill?
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Mar 8, 2014 01:12
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PainterofCrap posted:You can use ifferent types of hangers with offset brackets, like this: I actually ended up doing a mix of using the existing brackets with 1-2 long rear end screws in them to bite into (hopefully better wood) + put a 1x4 behind the entire gutter for some additional wood to secure to (with that wood held to the rafters by 90 degree brackets). I then put up a new section of gutter using the angled screw brackets in your first picture. Hopefully everything holds and doesn't leak at my joins consisting of rivets and gutter seal caulk stuff.
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Mar 10, 2014 06:01
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From an out of the box standpoint I would take the amount they are selling it for and then subtract that from the 150-200K you think it would be worth and assume it will cost you at least that much. You really don't want to underestimate on something this big.
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Mar 22, 2014 00:05
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Zhentar posted:In my garage, there are small gaps between the bottom of the wood in the garage door frame and the concrete floor. I'm pretty confident that this is how mice are getting into my garage, so I want to seal them off. What would be the best way to go about doing so? A picture might help but I'll throw out the spray can of expanding foam stuff for starters.
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May 25, 2014 23:27
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Sulla-Marius 88 posted:What is a good way to clean off really ingrained shower grime if white vinegar and baking soda didn't even phase it? Is it grime or is it mold/mildew? Have you tried Tilex/[Insert generic spray bleach product here]? Make sure to ventilate your bathroom/house if you're spraying a ton of bleach around.
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Jul 12, 2014 18:17
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I would like to do some winterizing or whatever you want to call it. I've got 3-5 windows (and maybe I'll do doors as well) that I am looking to make more insulated both the glass and where the window closes to meet the sill(?) or bottom of the window. I have a Home Depot down the road I can also shop at and a decent set of tools if anyone has something in mind in that vein short of putting in new windows. With that said, I'm looking at these three things on Amazon: Frost King Weather Strip Duck Brand Weatherstrip 3M Indoor Window Insulator Kit Any suggestions on other brands or products? Also related, I might insulate the garage doors, should I buy some random hard board insulation and just cut it to fit the multiple sections?
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Nov 19, 2014 01:03
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I am working on a chicken coop. The planned roof size is 44" by 40" with a 2" drop from front to back so 1/20 slope(?). I know for most types of real construction this slope would be not enough but for something like this I think it will be ok, plus I live in TN so lots of snow isn't an issue. I have access to the standard array of Home Depots/Lowes for supplies. What is the best/most cost effective way to roof this small amount of space? If need be I suppose I could rig up a bigger slope but I would rather not at this point in the construction process.
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Mar 26, 2015 01:10
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:For a flat slope generally you'd use asphalt paper, but your coop is so tiny that you might want to consider other options, if only because a single roll of asphalt paper would be waaaaaaay more than you need. Maybe you can get a piece of sheet metal cut to fit? Yeah I was kind of wondering if some sort of metal or plastic/fiberglass roofing panel would be ideal for this. I already have the plans laid for the roof to be framed with a plywood sheet on top which the roofing-materials-to-be-determined will attached to. I hadn't thought of doing flashing on the edges but that makes sense, once I get that far I may end up taking pictures and asking about that step if I'm unsure what to buy or how to do the flashing. edit: I should also find the closest Habitat for Humanity restore place and see if they have suitable scrap materials.
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Mar 26, 2015 02:02
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:You should build the coop on sleds if you can. Just hitch it to your tractor and evenly fertilize your land. Totally avoids the need for cleaning ground. Building the coop following the local laws for space for each bird as well as "must be 10 feet from property lines" means that with my skinny rectangle of a yard I have built/am building a coop + attached run that runs down the middle of my backyard parallel to the long edges. So the coop is 4x3 with a few inches overhang on each side which equals the roof dimensions I posted (but actually NOT what i posted because obviously 44x40 wouldn't cover a 4ft long side - however my plans are in the garage right now so I'll have to tell you the dimensions later). I am having the run be 8ft long by 4ft wide, the coop will sit on top of the run so part of the run will only be 3ft high, the other 5ft x 4ft of the run will be 4.5ft high. All that to say no sled/tractor action will be occurring. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Given the size he could probably just pick it up and carry it to where it needs to go. I mean, it'd be kind of awkward, but I doubt it'd be impossible. Flipperwaldt posted:These exist made of asphalt too and it's what I'm going to use. Knowing what the material is called in English would be helpful. Nice. Looks like you're doing a lot of recycled wood which look cool + cheaper I bet!
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Mar 27, 2015 02:43
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Is there an HVAC thread? If not... Had the AC on all day today set at 72, outside temperature around 80 degrees, came home from work, indoor temp = outdoor temp. Air is being blown from the vents but it is obviously not cooled, a trip outside showed me that the condensation drain pipe had not dumped any water out since the ground where it dumps was not wet compared to the surrounding ground. A trip to the basement yields no water pooling down there so it's not the pump that's failed causing no condensation to be on the ground outside (faithful readers will remember me fixing this problem a few years back thanks to Motronic I believe), in the basement I also could hear a noise that sounds like some poo poo (the fan?) is working. Another trip to the breaker box shows all the breakers in the on position for the entire house. Outside unit is a Goodman Model # G8C130241FA. I think the interior unit is a Carrier Corporation 28RC030000 but maybe that's the gas furnace for heat? If anyone can walk me through this I think I can fix it but I have no idea what to do on troubleshooting. TIA.
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Apr 10, 2015 00:27
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Thanks for the ideas, I just got home so I'll try and mess with it tonight.
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Apr 10, 2015 23:46
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Actias posted:Putting in a small patio using pavers: feasible for someone with basically no landscaping experience, or bad idea? The various Home Depot/HGTV/etc. videos I’ve looked at make it look relatively straightforward, albeit potentially time-consuming, but I don’t want to bite off more than I can chew and end up stuck with a pit in my backyard. Take your time, read directions/watch videos, worst case scenario you have to pick the pavers back up and level correctly with more sand/gravel if you hosed up the first time. I assume you're not using concrete anyway in which case ignore what I just said.
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Apr 16, 2015 00:11
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sirr0bin posted:The front stairs of my house have a 4-5" gap between the stairs and the house, creating a spot for people to get their feet wedged in and stuck. That's no fun, so I'd like to fix it. I think in the end manhandling will actually be the best way. The double-y best way would be to move them completely out of the way. Possibly dig a ~6" deep box and then put in gravel > compact gravel > put stairs back. This should eliminate settling and shifting of the stairs when you put them in the proper place. There may be a better method that I'm unaware of though 
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Apr 17, 2015 04:14
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