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Hello knit thread! I just finished my first pair of socks. It's a basic sock pattern using Hedgehog Fibres Sock Yarn, the color is Copper Penny. I wear knit socks on a near daily basis, so I'm excited to add them to the collection!  The next pair I'll likely increase the ribbing down the leg and the yarn will probably be Savvy Skeins, color: Doctor Strange 
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Aug 8, 2017 03:24
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HungryMedusa posted:If you could knit a sweater in any yarn, cost be damned what would it be? Anne Whateley posted:Such a good question! I would do it in Wollmeise. It's actually pretty affordable, I just really don't have the patience. I wouldn't go for any Tosh . . . the colors are absolutely gorgeous, but there are way too many dye issues in addition to not great durability. I've definitely fallen for it before, though, it just looks so good! effika posted:Probably something in fingering weight or laceweight, but the time cost would be more prohibitive than the materials cost for me! I've been meaning to try Malabrigo's sock yarn so maybe in that? I tend to prefer solids or gently variegated for my sweaters/cardigans. I get hot very easily, despite being cold-natured, so I prefer sweaters on the lighter side. My shop carries all three of those!  In terms of pure comfort I'd probably go with something like Woolfolk Tynd/Sno
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Sep 13, 2017 05:39
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DRINK ME posted:I'm relatively new to knitting as well and my purl was always a bit loose until I made the Fibonacci scarf. Purling 30,000+ stitches made me a lot more confident and happy with it. My first knit was a different version of a Fibonacci Scarf that turned out well enough to be a shop sample. Instead of alternating colors it alternates between knit and purl, which was a great way to pick up the basics with an otherwise simple project. I used stitch markers to determine when to switch between knit and purl until I got far enough along to be able to read it.
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Oct 1, 2017 15:30
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icehotels posted:I thought it was just me. I do like the detail on Habanero but I don't like the length. Husband suggested you knit something black? Sever
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Oct 9, 2017 16:41
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Pennywise the Frown posted:I checked another site before and they said to start with a size 8 needle as well so I picked up that and size 4 yarn and had lots of trouble with that. Well at least I think I did. Could have just been the tension. This video recommended the size 13 and bulky yarn so it's easier to see what I'm doing, I suppose. My shop's Beginning Knitting class recommends a size 8 needle (a 24" US 8 circular needle to be specific, because the instructor wants students to get used to circular needles) along with Worsted weight yarn, which is a 4 in that yarn weight category. They make washcloths and learn the basics of casting on, knit stitch, purl stitch, and binding off. But yeah, do whatever works best for you. The first thing I ever knit was a Sport weight scarf which would be a 2 in that category, and it turned out well enough to be a shop sample! What definitely helped though was having other knitters around to give a few pro-tips. Like others have mentioned I'd recommend either taking a Beginning Knitting class or at least checking local yarn shops for knitting groups that might be willing to show you some basics. I made a new thing! This is the Issa Cowl and Spincycle yarn:  Now it's back to finishing socks, Savvy Skeins yarn in colorway Doctor Strange:   I wound the yarn into two separate balls but started running out on the first sock right as I got to the toe, so I did the toe in Madelinetosh Twist Light - Posy which I actually really like!
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Oct 28, 2017 03:14
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That drat Satyr posted:Hello, knitting thread! Alright, if you want a set of interchangeable needles and don't mind making a bit more of an investment, here's what I'd recommend: If you want wood, I'd go with a set of Lykke interchangeable needles. They're made out of "driftwood" (read: birch wood iirc) and are really nice. They go from a US 4 to US 17, and while the set includes cables for 24", 32" and 40" you can purchase even longer cables separately. However, if you're ok with metal, I'd strongly recommend a set of Chiaogoo interchangeable needles. They go from US 2 to US 15 and also include cables for 24", 32" and 40". If you want to further offset the cost of the set, you can also just get the Small set which only has the US 2 to US 8 needles, or the Large set (US 9 to US 15). Each of those sets has all the same stuff, except the Small set provides the small side needles and leaves the large side empty, and vice versa for the Large. You can then fill in whichever side is empty later on down the line. I use Chiaogoo needles for pretty much everything and they own in terms of both quality and price point.
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Nov 23, 2017 17:22
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Oh hey everyone, it's been a minute since I've caught up on this thread because I've been distracted with, well... *gestures at the madness of the world over the last several years* So anyway I work at a LYS that has an in-house dye studio, and primarily take point on dye studio operations DRINK ME posted:Stupid poo poo I have been putting up with and never even thought about fixing: Circulars with plastic cables can sometimes coil back on themselves and be a pain in the arse to work with. This is great advise, though I caution not to get the needles themselves wet if possible (usually I'm talking about wood needles though) and just running the cable under a hot faucet. Alternatively Chaiogoo lace circular needles are fantastic, they drop to neutral out of the package bc the cable is a coated metal cable lady flash posted:It'll be just fine, that's often what is recommended for potential bugs. You'll want to freeze it, let it come to room temp and do it again. I recently received wool of unknown origin and did that before adding it to my stash just to be safe. Also great advise! The reason you want to freeze it twice is bc this is typically the approach if you're concerned about moths eating your wool yarn. The adult moths don't eat the yarn (typically they don't have mouths). They lay eggs in it and then their larvae eat it once they hatch. You need to freeze it twice bc when you freeze the first time they will hibernate so you need to trick them into beginning the hatching process and then do it again. Keeping things in a cedar chest or with cedar blocks is also a good idea bc that's also a deterrant MIDWIFE CRISIS posted:Love the color in the first pair especially Dyeing is some science but imo mostly an artistic endeavor. It can at times be challenging bc there are only so many different ways to apply color to a thing and you want to be innovative. I hate sitting on new colors to unleash at a future date bc invariably someone will post something very similar on social media Anyway get undyed yarn, presoak in water, place it in a pan/pot with water. You will apply an acid at some point (citric acid/vinegar) and use acid dyes for wool, and then you "paint" the yarn. Tonals/solids you can dump and cook or stick in a warming cabinet, however variegated and/or speckled will typically be hand painted over cooktop. If you want the yarn to be more tonal/solid then add the acid later so the dye has more time to saturate and evenly bind, however if you want the dye to strike faster for a variegated then add the acid first before the yarn and dye. For fast strike you want both heat (180-190F) and acid If you want some interesting tutorials on dyeing then look up Nicole Frost on youtube. Also ALWAYS wear a respirator when mixing acid dyes Anyway yeah lmk if you want to see any examples of things that I've been working on or if you want more specifics about how to paint and/or speckle yarn
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Aug 18, 2023 04:43
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ChickenOfTomorrow posted:Oh, good timing... I have some white cotton yarn and a shitload of henna. Can one be applied to the other and made color-fast? I primarily have experience with acid dyes on animal fiber (sw and nsw wool, mohair, alpaca), acid dyes don't adhere well to plant-based yarn such as cotton and linen and so you need to go a different direction with that. Here's some tips for dyeing with henna. It looks like it will work on cotton but won't be quite as vibrant as it would be when used on an animal based protein. One thing that might also help is pre-soaking the cotton for 30 min to 1 hour in a bucket of water with 1 tsp of synthrapol added to it.
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Aug 19, 2023 00:18
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