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babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


ANIME AKBAR posted:

Switching frequency fsw isn't directly a factor. It's the transfer function that matters...

This topic is clearly over my head, so could you briefly explain what a transfer function is in this context?

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babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


A Proper Uppercut posted:

I went ahead and ordered the LEDs for that ridiculous LED cube I asked about here.

I like the idea of using an Arduino instead of building a controller. I'll have to look into it more once I reach that point. My programming experience is, uh, extremely limited, but this seems like a good project to mess around with that of things.

Arduino thread. It's great.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3505424

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


"Galvanized" steel is zinc-coated, and it solders pretty well. Don't get it too hot because the zinc layer is only a few atoms thick and vaporizes pretty easily.

edit: that said, steel wire isn't a requirement. You're looking for straight wire for mechanical purposes. Solid copper wire is sufficient. 20AWG is probably the smallest possible diameter that has a reasonable chance of succeeding for a cube this size, but get whatever you can find locally. The big box stores have "bell wire" which is usually 18 or 16ga solid copper.

Unaffiliated and unsponsored link just to show some 20awg. If you walk into the store, just look at the spools next to the big wire rack. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-50-ft-18-2-Bell-Wire-64267201/307335788

babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Aug 5, 2023

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Shame Boy posted:

Also I tried experimenting with putting an inductor somewhere in the circuit to just keep it from being physically capable of drawing huge current spikes and boy did that create some funky oscillations lol

Is this a case of SPICE not accurately reflecting what would happen in the real world with physical parts, or do you think there'd be actual ringing on a PCB? I don't have much experience with all SMD stuff. For transients like that in SPICE, I will throw my (mostly through-hole) components on a piece of perfboard and see if it happens. The random inductance and capacitance of the leads and board and whatnot usually make all that stuff go away.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


namlosh posted:

Can anyone think of why they explicitly say that? Is it a certification and/or compliance thing?

Yes. It's not specified as food safe, so they say it's not intended for food. It's probably made exactly the same way as a food-safe probe, but isn't specifically tracked to ENSURE it's food-safe. It's probably fine.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Charles Ford posted:

I've started working on creating a DIY replacement for a "Flo by Moen" smart water meter and I've been obsessing over making sure the water-contacting bits (pressure sensor, electrically operated ball valve) were NSF61/food safe. I did consider YOLOing it but I know I'd lie awake at night worrying about it.

I did eventually find a $70 pressure sensor from Honeywell on Mouser/Digikey that was NSF61, but it has an automotive connector and getting *that* seems to be a nightmare too. Digikey implied it came with the terminals but they marked it "obsolete" as well as "specifically for this sensor we still sell", and Mouser had the connector but had a vague implication it had no terminals, so I guess we'll see when it arrives!

Still haven't found a valve, though one company insists their stainless steel one is when I asked them (but their site just says both "it's safe for drinking water!" and "beware the lead").

What kind of valve? I use Grainger and McMaster for a lot of food-safe stuff.

I also found out (by looking at my order history) that we buy type J thermocouples for our stuff. I also found an ancient box of type E, I assume for the liquid nitrogen blast freezer.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Ok, so you're looking to make a device that does something then shuts a valve off or turns it back on based on a condition? You don't necessarily need "NSF rated" things; potable water contact is sufficient. NSF is a whole set of things for bacteria resistance and washdown and crevices and all this other stuff that starts doubling price every time you add a condition.

A motorized valve is probably overkill; they're typically servovalves that are designed to drive to a specified position based on a control signal. If you just want on/off control, then there are a couple of options. A motor and a couple of limit switches and attach that to a normal 3/4 valve like this, for example. Something like a window regulator out of a car that has torque sensors at end of travel could be a $free option. Depends on how professional you want the final product to look, I guess.

Alternatively, a normal solenoid valve would work, either NO or NC depending on whether you want it to be open or closed if the power goes off. You could use a sprinkler valve for that: it's a potable-water rated, normally closed, full port, on/off valve.

An industrial "thread this into a port and read voltage/current/i2c/rs485" sensor is going to be expensive, but a surface-mount transducer with a port on top can be in the $10 range. Do you need a transducer, even? Would a pressure switch work?

I like the idea of this project, and the thingy that Moen has put out seems to be well-engineered to hit a price point. However, Moen has enough in-house manufacturing and engineering that they can say "we need X for a valve" and their valve department makes them one. Duplicating their product directly is probably not going to get you the same thing for even triple the cost, but using their idea as inspiration and making your specific device to do the exact thing you want in the exact way you want (safely) is well within pretty much anyone's abilities.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


namlosh posted:

I have a really dumb/fun electronic-adjacent question for the group.
I'm building a grill temperature thing and needed some thermocouples. I got one of these from mouser (made by sparkfun)

namlosh posted:

I wonder what power source those little probes use...

So I managed to luck into 30m of K-type thermocouple wire (cut into 3m lengths). So I built a thermopile with it to power a microcontroller. That's where I ran out of steam for the project, because while an MSP430 can run on nanoamps, I couldn't find a thermocouple amplifier that could, so I just have this thingy that you can stick in the grill flame and make an LED blink (dimly).

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Charles Ford posted:

I actually have the Moen but dislike the app and cloud-only ness so my plan is actually to sell it if my DIY one works, and since they're $400 new hopefully actually cover the parts.

Obviously won't cover the time put into it but since it's also for fun it's "free".

This is all incredibly cool and good! Keep us posted! I'd be interested in an Instructables with BOM kind of thing.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Deadite posted:

I need some guidance on how to make LED strips light up in a pattern. I bought this 12 volt 4 channel relay but I realized I have no idea how to use it. Is this the right thing I need?

I just want three LED strips to blink in sequence and then start over, but this relay didn't come with instructions and I have no idea how everything hooks up. I can tell where the power lines go in because they're labeled with DC+ and DC-, but the relays just have labels for NO, COM, and NC. I also have no idea what IN1-4 are for.

As you can probably tell I'm in way over my head.

You have half your project there, so that's good. This is what would turn the LED strips on and off.

You'd connect +12VDC to DC+ and all of the COM terminals. Connect 0VDC to DC- and the - of all your LED strips. Connect the + of each of your LED strips to the NO of each relay.

Now you just need to put +5V at each of IN1 - IN4 in turn, and each LED strip will turn on in turn! That's the second half of the project. Do you feel comfortable with an arduino or other small microcontroller, or are you looking for something off-the-shelf?

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babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Something like this Adafruit ItsyBitsy is just the ticket then. Smaller than your four relays.

This would be 100% of the code you need to run the thing:
code:
void setup() {
  pinMode(13,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(12,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(11,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(10,OUTPUT);
}

const int delay_time=1000; // milliseconds.

void loop() {
  digitalWrite(13,HIGH);
  sleep(delay_time);
  digitalWrite(13,LOW);

  digitalWrite(12,HIGH);
  sleep(delay_time);
  digitalWrite(12,LOW);

  digitalWrite(11,HIGH);
  sleep(delay_time);
  digitalWrite(11,LOW);

  digitalWrite(10,HIGH);
  sleep(delay_time);
  digitalWrite(10,LOW);

}

Only registered members can see post attachments!

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Rescue Toaster posted:

I was trying to figure out a rechargeable battery that could last an exceptionally long time in float mode (UPS style) without replacement. On the order of at least a decade, maybe 15-20 years?

Maybe solid lead Hawker Cyclons (I think now Enersys Cyclon) which are rated for 15 years. Any other ideas? It sounds like satellites for example use some exotic poo poo but that Nickel Cadmium may still be popular. Not that I would know where to source actual good quality NiCad.

I feel like even if an ultracapacitor could meet my needs, I wouldn't necessarily trust any of the current manufactured materials to last 10+ years since there's really no track record.

NiCad is the battery chemistry for this. If you never ever ever go below 80% depth of discharge and have the ability to do a conditioning cycle on it once a year, they will absolutely last decades.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Rescue Toaster posted:

Any thoughts on NiCad vs NiMH? When you say 'conditioning' how deep of a discharge are we talking? I wouldn't want to risk power going out while the discharge just happened to be near the bottom. Although dual batteries might even be doable if it simplified that problem enough.

EDIT: Yeah my only consideration for lithium chemistries would be lifepo4. I just wasn't sure quality-wise how the smaller 18650's and 22650's fare. There isn't really room for a big giant pack.

The reality is I technically need like 30 watts for 1 minute tops... not even a single watt-hour. But obviously that's a few amps in the 6-7.2v range which would maybe stress some of the nickel-based chemistries if the mAH was really small.

NiCad batteries are used as the primary starting battery in aircraft. They'll flow a few hundred amps for a dozen or so seconds a few times, then get recharged. The conditioning cycle is a whole process where you discharge the battery, short all the cells to remove all charge, then charge the battery back up. It can take a few hours. But if you're not going below 90% depth of discharge, then you only have to do that once a decade according to the manual I just read.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Stack Machine posted:

If they do step down the 25Hz, those transformers must be massive.

From what I remember, they use rotary converters AKA motor-generator sets.


Giganticon posted:

I've also been shocked many many times by many power forms so maybe ignore my advice. The least pleasant? 28VDC aircraft power. The best? 209 split phase. Truly the gentlemans choice for being blasted.

28VDC off the bus is definitely a thing, but getting all three phases of 115VAC 400Hz feels like molten ants running around on your skin. And, of course, not having the mag grounded when the impulse coupler kicks.

We almost had a guy knock himself off the tail because he was checking output voltage of the anticollision light power supply AT THE LAMP. It's a 80kV 600W xenon flash lamp. That power supply will straight kill you, and then the fall off the top of the ladder just adds injury to death.

edit: thought this was the aviation thread where the guy was asking about being an airplane mechanic.

babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Dec 15, 2023

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Charles Ford posted:

I only shocked myself once with 240V, but I agree it was the best as it made me make a cartoonish "ababababababa" noise and left a little scorch mark. 110V just felt like a strange little massage, thankfully I was not grounded.

Unrelated question; I've heard tales of digital servos that are actually digital, e.g. you talk to them over a serial protocol instead of just PWMing at them. This gives them the ability to turn off the drive (so they're no longer "active") and read their position back (which might be useful while they're not "active"), for example. Is this true? What am I meant to be googling to find this because just "digital servo" finds the usual sort that takes PWM but just (allegedly) contains a microcontroller.

You might be thinking of actual industrial servomotors that have position encoders built in. They're driven by servomotor drives and you just talk to them over ethernet/IP as part of your PLC's motion control system. I've got a machine that uses Yaskawa drives. The servomotor is 1.5kW; here's a comparable one on ebay. 20-bit encoders, connects to the drive with two shielded cables (power and data are separate), and the PLC just sends commands to the drive to tell the motor to move to a position at a rate and it happens, with feedback in case it doesn't.

Those ebay prices look like about 50% of dealer bulk pricing.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


For some reason, I feel the need to point out that a "servo" system is anything that has a positioning element with feedback to hold that position.
:goonsay:

This positioning element can be a rotary or linear motion device, and can be controlled by electrics, hydraulics, pneumatics, or something mechanical. The control system can likewise be electric, hydraulic, pneumatic, or mechanical. The control system does not necessarily have to expose the feedback and positioning system, but sometimes it does.

Some common "servo" examples are power steering in a car. These can be hydraulic control and actuation, electric control and actuation, electric control and hydraulic actuation, or (infrequently) something else.

For common electric/electric servo systems, the motor itself can be anything. DC, AC, stepper, brushless.... As long as the control system can tell it to turn the correct direction and stop when it needs to, the motor can be the actuation side of a servo system. The important bit is that there's feedback from the actual position the motor is at so that the control system can compare that to the desired position and generate a signal to move the motor to the desired position. This happens CONSTANTLY; the control system is ALWAYS comparing the actual and desired position and generating signals if required. This is what makes servos particularly useful for positioning: If you tell your control system to set the angle to 0, then the control system KEEPS the angle at 0, even if something is moving the shaft around.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


I keep wanting to have a project that legit lets me use synchros on something. Synchros are these neat 3-phase systems that can do addition, subtraction, and Other Stuff. Resolvers are like synchros but compute sin/cos directly and use those phase angles to do Other Things (like differentiation somehow and complex coordinate translation in three dimensions).

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Rescue Toaster posted:

Boy I built an AC dimmer circuit (trailing edge, so it has a zero-cross detector and switches on immediately, then off during the waveform) and that thing rings pretty bad when it switches on.

Even with a regular incandescent load, and crossing within a few 10's of microseconds of the zero crossing so the voltage is only ~3 volts max when turning on, it looks pretty ugly on the scope. I wonder if I should slow down the mosfets with a higher gate resistor, trade some mosfet dissipation to slow down the rising edge on that current.

And/or I want to try out some different, better zero crossing detector circuits.

PLL to pre-anticipate the zero crossing? What's the circuit you're using now?

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


The power supplies for those irrigation controllers are like 20VA max. That said, the inrush is completely unreal. They're specced at less than an amp, but I've seen 5A inrush in the field. I suspect your power supply is browning out at the inrush.

edit:

Shame Boy posted:

Oh yeah good point, if it's buzzing that sounds like you're feeding it AC when it wants DC.

e: Well the product page they linked that I didn't initially see says:

24 VAC 50/60Hz (cycles per second) solenoid power requirement: 0.450A inrush current, 0.25A holding current

So :shrug:

e2: I also saw the 47 ohm measurement mentioned but missed the part where they said the manufacturer specifies it should be 38 ohms, I've never seen a solenoid where the resistance is off by over 20% like that, that'd be like "accidentally" winding an extra few hundred turns of wire...

:shrug: 20% is well within tolerance for consumer-grade garbage that's typically overdriven.

One thing to note is that these irrigation valves are pilot valves. They rely on the main water pressure going up into the valve/solenoid body to reliably actuate. The solenoid itself moves a TINY bit, which opens a TINY passage which lets full water pressure into the diaphragm to open the valve fully. The buzzing may just be it floating around in its housing because there's no pressure pushing it towards one stop: power goes on and it shoots to one end of travel, hits the rubberized stop, bounces, repeat.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Rocko Bonaparte posted:

I can't look right now, but I bet I got a DC supply instead of AC since that is the kind of thing I'd do despite checking multiple times.

Shoulda just got the rainbird transformer that was one bin over.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Rocko Bonaparte posted:

Noo I don't even have the relay involved yet. I just connected the solenoid to the 24VAC power supply to test if it opened or not. I was curious if somehow that in itself would be stupid with these.

Assume it's working until you prove it's not. You don't know what it's supposed to do when it's not hooked up in the way it's intended to be hooked up.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Rocko Bonaparte posted:

I'm trying to remember a best practice from two decades back when I was doing digital systems stuff in college. It had to do with powering LEDs from TTL chips. If I remember right, we were discouraged from trying to power our LEDs from TTL outputs directly and instead use an inverter. We would tie a resistor in series with the LED from Vcc into the output. When the inverter was low, it would suck in the current to drive the LED. I believe the idea was buffers and inverters both were more robust with the current they could pull but this could damage the regular logic chips. Furthermore, inverters were preferred because they'd drive the LED as you'd expect from the original digital output; A high signal coming into the inverter would become a low signal, but that would sink current and cause the light to turn on).

I kind of suspect that I could get LEDs these days that have very low current requirements so this practice is less important, but when I was trying to search for it, I was seeing a lot of transistors driving an LED instead.

To amplify the above post, look at the "fanout" and the sinking/sourcing current available. Inverters and buffers were designed to have CRAZY HIGH fanout, specifically to do this kind of thing. The logic chips were designed with the intent that if you had to drive more than a small number of other logic chips, you'd send the signal through a buffer or inverter first.

For a random chip, I picked the 7411 (3-input AND gate). It can drive up to 10 other 74-series, 12.5 74H-series, 25 74HC-series, or 5 74LC-series. There are adifferent drive ratings depending on if the chip is driving with a HIGH or LOW signal. The 7411, 74H11, and 74HC11 can source and sink roughly 4mA per output, with a total of roughly 20mA for the whole chip. The 74LS11 can sink 15mA but only source 2mA.

So yeah, two decades ago, it was very specific to which actual logic chips you're using, and (in general) a bad idea to try to drive LEDs with them.

Now? Tiny microcontrollers are rating their pins at 10 or 20mA per pin with a max current for the whole chip at 200mA.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


ANIME AKBAR posted:

I have a really frustrating cable/connector design issue I can't find the right connector for, maybe someone can help. The basic specs:
1. The connector has to support at least three 22awg stranded wires.
2. It's a free-hanging connection, not wire-to-board.
3. Either the plug or receptacle has to be small enough to pass through a 8mm circular hole.
4. Need to mate and un-mate it by hand, but should also have some basic retention (a basic latch)

Basically I want something like a micro-fit 3.0, but small enough to fit through an 8mm round hole. So far it looks like no such thing exists. I can find receptacles with 1.5mm pitch which satisfy the size limitation, but they only mate with board-mount headers, no free-hanging plugs available. Even considered a 2x2 connectors, but then the latch always pushes it over the 8mm limit.

Something like this?
https://www.molex.com/en-us/products/part-detail/2145252031 Receptacle
https://www.molex.com/en-us/products/part-detail/5055650301 Plug

edit: missed the 22awg part. That's gonna be tricky.

babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jan 13, 2024

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


ryanrs posted:

1/8" headphone connector?

I wasn't able to find a 1/8" stereo connector with an overall barrel diameter below 8mm. The locking ones have M6 threads on them, and even with the barrel nut that should be below 8mm, but even the thinnest ones ended up being 9mm or larger in diameter.

There's probably something out there, but I couldn't find it easily.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


ANIME AKBAR posted:

Thanks to everyone who made suggestions on the connector. Yeah if any one of those requirements is eliminated then it becomes solvable. Alas.

It's for a panel-mount LED like this one. There are certainly other ways to put a nice looking indicator on a control panel, but most would involve a tiny PCB which is ~*too complex*~. So the leading option now is to use small FASTON terminals for each of the three wires, lol.

Why would a 2x2 dupont connector not work? Or even individual dupont connectors that you plug in individually? What's the driving factor for "retention" on a panel-mount LED?

This now feels very much like a case of "the solution you're looking for isn't the actual problem you're trying to solve."

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


ANIME AKBAR posted:

A basic connector without a latch would probably work fine, if the connecting wires are secured near the connection so their own weight doesn't pull things apart (it's about 2ft of wire, which is plenty of weight). Unfortunately cable management was completely neglected during design of all the mechanical stuff. Adding an adhesive ziptie anchor would probably work fine, but they still believe that there must be a magic cable configuration which will make it unnecessary.
That's one way of putting it. Unfortunately the solution is more mechanical than electrical, but the mechanical engineers don't give a poo poo apparently.

Engineers should be forced to repair things in their field for 2 (two) years before being allowed to design a product for production. Find something sufficiently heavy and blunt and retrain your engineers.

Remember: every tool has a hammer side... including monitors, oscilloscopes, and desk chairs.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


LimaBiker posted:

They really think for the long term. Motors and generators are still available in the same form factor as they were in the 1960s, but it's reasonable to expect that the current microcontrollers won't be around anymore in 20 years time while the industry standard motors/generators will keep being industrial lego parts.
They might keep boards in stock for a while, but i wouldn't be suprised if they wouldn't be able to supply boards for very old solid state converters.

The IGBTs also stop being made. I found a static phase converter that took up to 100A 480V 3-phase 60Hz and would output up to 75A 400V 400Hz. Some testing found one bad IGBT of 24. The IGBT wasn't made anymore, and all the warnings on all of the manuals said very loudly to not mix part numbers. The recommendation was to match LOT NUMBERS of the IGBTs and replace them 6 at a time (positive and negative on each of three phases) for best results.

Since these IGBTs were the size of coffee cans and 1980s-era parts books listed them at thousands of dollars each, we resigned ourselves to scrapping the thing.

The motor-genset this replaced had been returned to service after being plonked in a back room for most of a decade and still ran great. The motor part of it was a commercial unit from Westinghouse from no later than mid-70s.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:

On further consideration, I think using something like an INA3221 to monitor the (8V, ~1mA) garage door limit switch circuits and blatting that to the microcontroller is the way to go. But I have read the manual front to back and I haven't found the answer to my question: does this thing keep the circuit closed when the sensor is unpowered? That would be necessary for this application.

Which ancient-rear end dry contact garage door opener do you have? I would presume the ratgdo would play well with the switches as they sit, since that's what it was designed for: to be a drop-in thingy for old-rear end openers.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:

I think it was designed to be a drop-in for Security+ 1.0 and 2.0 new openers, and older ones are an afterthought. I don't think I can transfer the existing limit switches to the ratgdo directly because then how will the opener know when to stop?

I was under the impression that the switch inputs are paralleled in. The opener sees what it needs to, and the wifi control board sees the same thing, so it knows the status of a dumb opener.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Rocko Bonaparte posted:

Does somebody have a recommended method for homebrew PCB's or should I just get them fab'd?

For single- or double-sided that fit in the work envelope, the various 3018 CNC routers work pretty well. Etching works well, too.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


ryanrs posted:

Yeah, that's why you can't use SOOW rubber cord inside walls. Rubber deteriorates pretty quickly.

So what's a good 100-year insulation? I expect modern PVC will be cracked and brittle by then. Maybe PVDF?

XHHW, probably. Cross-linked polyethylene insulation. We all know that polyethylene doesn't break down in anything short of direct, dedicated, persistent UV radiation (like the sunlight), so it's probably safe inside a wall.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Sewage is extremely conductive. Just a couple of wires alone with 120VAC and a light bulb works as a detector.

Or, like, anything.

It's tap water (conductive) with electrolytes added.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


ryanrs posted:

I do like the idea of a steampunk sewage detector that just runs straight 120VAC to big carbon electrodes. A red incandescent POOP sign glows when a leak is detected.

The bulb flickers as a gob of poo poo oozes off the electrodes.

If by "steampunk" you mean "still a new-construction device available for purchase until the 1990s" then sure. I got to remove one at a wastewater treatment plant. It was the backup to the backup high-level alarm. 120V isolation transformer, couple of stainless electrodes, and a big buzzer in a box with a big incandescent light.

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babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Rocko Bonaparte posted:

Is there some way to look up multiple parts at once? I have these piles of chips from grab bags and I want to cut down on all the turnaround on looking them up.

There's a DigiKey API you can sign up for.

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