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Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
Is there an electronics repair thread? I have a ~20yo home stereo reciever that has started making a 60Hz buzzing noise. I am confident that it's not a ground loop: it is physically vibrating the chassis.

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Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010

Shame Boy posted:

Not sure if there's a dedicated thread but plenty of people post in here about it so it's fine if you wanna.

That sorta sounds like a transformer inside might have come a little loose, they vibrate a tiny bit normally due to a phenomenon called magnetostrsiction, and if the screws holding em' down back out a bit they can start rattling.

I was disracted by family stuff, but I finally got a chance to break out the JIS drivers (:cool:) and crack the case open, and the vibration is definitely coming from the transformer. I unscrewed the transformer mounting plate from the chassis, 4 screws, loosened it, and retightened, and I am still getting the hum. I did notice that the plate was mounted directly to the chassis: no dampening whatsoever. Is there some sort of bushing that I could throw at this problem maybe?

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
I am a rank newb, and I need some sort of clips for prototyping. For temporarily connecting a single standard female 2.54mm dupont jumper to a board with no header pins soldered in, like in the picture, any opinons on which is the correct/best mini grabber? Diligent, Pomona, anything better or cheaper, or is there some other way?

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
I was really hoping to hook up the 4 pins to test an I2C component and confirm the poo poo works before I decide whether to cover my house in esp32/up my solder game

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
I'm thinking of setting up a ratgdo for my ancient-rear end dry contact garage door opener, but it's been way too long since I electroniced. I'm looking at tapping in to the already existing limit switches on my garage door, and measured 8 volts DC between contact and rail. This is what I'm looking for, right?

E: "Other precautions This Relay is a Power Relay which is suitable for power load switching. Do not use the G6C for signal purposes such as micro load switching under 10 mA" OK. What the hell am I looking for, then?

Skinnymansbeerbelly fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Jan 27, 2024

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
On further consideration, I think using something like an INA3221 to monitor the (8V, ~1mA) garage door limit switch circuits and blatting that to the microcontroller is the way to go. But I have read the manual front to back and I haven't found the answer to my question: does this thing keep the circuit closed when the sensor is unpowered? That would be necessary for this application.

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010

babyeatingpsychopath posted:

Which ancient-rear end dry contact garage door opener do you have? I would presume the ratgdo would play well with the switches as they sit, since that's what it was designed for: to be a drop-in thingy for old-rear end openers.

I think it was designed to be a drop-in for Security+ 1.0 and 2.0 new openers, and older ones are an afterthought. I don't think I can transfer the existing limit switches to the ratgdo directly because then how will the opener know when to stop?

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
Why use something off the shelf when I can make something super jank instead? I think I'm going to ESPhome it as there are other environmental sensors I want to throw on. Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of using an LTC4311 to extend the i2c bus a couple yards out?

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
gently caress it, I'll ask here too: anyone got a rec for magnifying & lighting headgear that doesn't suck, but also doesn't break the bank? I'm having trouble telling the Tx from the Rx with this 2mm tall silkscreen text. Ready to go full dork.

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
Alright, I skimmed the datasheet (pgs 15-16) but I still don't understand: on an ESP32-C6, what is the difference between the UART and the LP UART, and then between I2C and LP I2C?

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
Cool, I wasn't sure if that was low power as in energy efficient or low power as in "lower power, you fool!"

I am looking at making an air quality monitor for my domus on breadboard to interface to my home assistant server, but I have more questions.

Outline:
ESP32-C6 DevKitC, because I want that Wifi 6 even though I know it will lead to ESPhome configuration complications
Senseair S8 1% CO2 monitor on UART
Sensiron SPS30 Particulate sensor on I2C
Adafruit SHT41 thermohygrometer module, also on I2C
:20bux: of Aliexpress garbage because I can't find my parts bin

I have some questions about the the SPS30, because I have never had to care about the supporting bits of an I2C circuit before. The datasheet says on p 16 to use 10kΩ pull-up resistors, but if the Adafruit module already has pull-ups on the bus, then they're not necessary, yea?

The S8 and SPS30 both spec 5V input while outputting 3.3V, so I guess I'm running everything off of the 5V. That Adafruit module says it can run off either 5 or 3.3, but I don't understand: will that work with it's level shifting circuitry if the I2C bus needs to stay 3.3V?

The Senseair sheet states on p 2 that it is unprotected against surges, do I need some sort of power conditioning, and if so, how? The manual for the power supply I'm looking at says overvoltage protection kicks in at 6.5V, which is more than the sensors specs. Also I hate that fake USB C power bullshit. Can I cut off the ends of a micro B power cord, crimp dupont connectors on and raw dog it?

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010

ryanrs posted:

The Adafruit sensor can run on either 3.3V or 5V, but not with a split 5V supply / 3.3V I2C. If you feed the Adafruit module 5V supply, it's going to pull SCL and SDA to 5V through 10k resistors.

I suggest powering the Adafruit SHT40 with 3.3V from the S8's regulator output DVCC_out.

The built-in 10k resistors in the Adafruit module are sufficient to pull up the bus. You don't need to add more unless you're trying to run long wires or faster bus speeds.

I'm not exactly sure what you're asking re USB 5V, but the Senseair manual is just saying that if you plug it in backwards or to 12V, it's gonna kill it. Or if your power supply fails and somehow gives out 6.5V, that might kill it, too. IMO just hope your power supply doesn't fail.

OK, so I want to be sure: if I power the SHT40 module off the 3.3V, then so go it's 10k pull ups, yeah? Do I then need to put separate pull-ups to the 5V on the SPS30?

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
Sorry for the lack of response, but the feedback from this thread has been super helpful and I do appreciate it.

This is the part I've been dreading: my little project seems to work with test clips, but my soldering skills are whack. If I'm starting from nothing, what are the correct tools? No good solder in the closet, unfortunately. Manufacturers instructions: "Hand soldering: soldering iron temperature 380 °C during two seconds/pin."

I need to turn my butchers hands into surgeons hands so that I don't damage these sensors. What is the best way to develop those skills quickly and cheaply before I start on the $$$ modules? Is there anything like a "get gud" package on Ali, a strip of header and empty drilled PCB to set up and knock out?

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
Any suggestions for a sensor that can detect the smell of hot engine in a garage?

Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010
The background is that I have an air purifier which is pretty good at keeping the smell of hot car from intruding into my kitchen, if I run it for a while after parking my car in the attached garage. I'd like to automate that.

I was hoping to get a sensor that I could just slam onto the ESP32-C6-EVB which I plan to attach to my old-fashioned dry-contact garage door opener, because to do that with the 90640 I have to drag the I2C bus across the ceiling.

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Skinnymansbeerbelly
Apr 1, 2010

Shame Boy posted:

You'd need to know what kind of vapors that smell is made of first, but there's plenty of sensors that can detect basic molecules like CO concentration or volatile organic compounds or something like that that might work :shrug:

Yeah I already tried with an SGP-41, it was a complete failure :v:

Also, is there an underlying reason that the narrow FoV IR thermometers are so loving expensive? Even one dimensional ones are $40

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