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Splode
Jun 18, 2013

put some clothes on you little freak
I'd never thought about this before, but you're right it's not that intuitive. Something I'll have to keep in mind when training people up in future.

It is at least consistent with diodes, which also generally mark the cathode on the part - though usually the footprint has a mark on the cathode too

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Splode
Jun 18, 2013

put some clothes on you little freak

Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:

Why use something off the shelf when I can make something super jank instead? I think I'm going to ESPhome it as there are other environmental sensors I want to throw on. Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of using an LTC4311 to extend the i2c bus a couple yards out?

I2C* was designed to never leave a circuit board, so there are a lot of pitfalls, but if you stay within what that LTC chip says it can do you'll probably get away with it. Just make sure your software can handle the occasional bit of messed up i2c traffic.

I^2C, Is IIC for inter-IC - it's specifically designed for communication between two ICs on the same pcb. It doesn't have any of the features that communication protocols designed for inter-device protocols have. RS485, CAN, USB, ethernet, RS232 are all more reliable options but obviously will complicate your design.

Splode
Jun 18, 2013

put some clothes on you little freak

Rescue Toaster posted:

I mean I'm not cranking on it or anything. But if the pads are completely clean, I can't exactly hold part, hold soldering iron, and apply solder all at the same time. I don't have 3 arms.

Basically:
A) Apply small amount of solder to one pad.
B) Tack part down, either by sliding it in from the side, or positioning it straight above pads and pushing down (gently) while reheating.
C) Solder other joint.
D) Re-flow the tack joint with a little bit of flux or w/e if necessary to clean it up.

The trouble is step B, it's easy to end up with the part not lying flat (when trying to slide it from the side) or end up not centered properly (when sort of pushing it down while reflowing).

I mean it's not like a total hassle, I've soldered absolute shitloads of 0603 and 0805 parts by hand this way. But it always feels like a slightly better shape of tweezers tip would help me align it while simultaneously ensuring it lays flat.

When I say 'downforce' I mean, enough to push through the surface tension of solder, not anything else. But gripping a component by the sides with tiny tweezers with a smooth gripping face sometimes doesn't want to work unless you're squeezing hard enough to risk the part jumping out or being damaged.

This is how I do it too. It does sound like you just need better tweezers. It's hard to predict but sometimes tweezers work and sometimes they are weirdly sticky or slippery.

I'm definitely going to pick up a pair of those titanium ones they look great

Splode
Jun 18, 2013

put some clothes on you little freak

Shame Boy posted:

You'd need to know what kind of vapors that smell is made of first, but there's plenty of sensors that can detect basic molecules like CO concentration or volatile organic compounds or something like that that might work :shrug:

Or just like, sense the car using an electric eye sensor or whatever and then start a timer to run for an hour.

Yeah surely the easiest way is to just detect the car itself. When the car arrives, start a timer and turn it off after that.

To detect a car you could use a distance sensor of any kind (IR reflective, IR beam break, ultrasonic, you name it), or something in the car (eg some kind of transponder, or an RFID tag - you can get systems that operate at a reasonable distance).

You could also detect the state of the garage door using a similarly wide number of options.

You could even detect yourself! Something like when your mobile joins the wifi, kick on the purifier for X time. This only works if you're only leaving via the car and only people who's phones you can ID are using the garage.

All of those are going to be way cheaper, more reliable, and ultimately simpler than trying to detect exhaust gasses. However, gas detection is dope so if you want to do it that way because it's cool then more power to you, and please continue posting about the project as it's a fun one!

Splode
Jun 18, 2013

put some clothes on you little freak

LimaBiker posted:

Also check to see if the cell isn't deep discharged. Sometimes the charger locks out in such a case.

I think it could just be this - if it was switched on and charging, the LEDs probably used more current than the battery was receiving from the charger, so despite being "on charge" it went flat.

This could be because it didn't correctly ask the laptop power supply for 5V 1A with the proper USB process, so the laptop followed the USB spec and only have it 250mA. This is a common issue for cheap electronics as they don't want to pay for a chip to do USB power negotiations, so both the charger and device just offer 1A without the negotiation.

I can't think of any reason why that charger would've damaged the device though. I think it's extremely unlikely the laptop charger put out more than 5V - the USB PD spec is designed specifically to stop that happening, and USB laptop power supplies are either compliant or need to be recalled.

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Splode
Jun 18, 2013

put some clothes on you little freak

Foxfire_ posted:

Anyone want to offer opinions on workspace organization stuff they like/hate? My work is moving offices and I have a chance to change things around.

Current plan is:
- Index card filing boxes for IC storage in ESD bags
- Cover one entire wall with bin rails and plastic bins
- Power strip screwed into the top of benches for portable things, cords for everything semi-permanent (soldering irons, scope, bench power supply, ...) down to power strip behind and on the floor/back to leave the top plugs free
- A few test lead hooks on the wall by every bench to try to lure people into at least hanging things up somewhere instead of letting them get tangles, and a ~5' stretch with labels by kind for them to get eventually sorted back onto
- Wire spools on portable caddys (I don't love these since they get tangled, but also don't want to have to walk to get wire)
- Per-person "keep track of your own poo poo" toolboxes for screwdriver bits & hex wrenches instead of trying to have common ones that inevitably get lost

Put side cutters and tweezers in the "your own poo poo" toolboxes. People always try and use side cutters to cut through fuckin bike locks or something and ruin the blade edge. Similarly they use tweezers as crowbars and gently caress up the tips.

I've just implemented a similar system for smd components (ESD bags in small boxes), so far so good, but a bit too soon to tell.

The rest sounds great, take a photo when it's done if you can!

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