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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Rescue Toaster posted:

I agree with the others, I can't imagine trying to make some kind of general-public-facing USB interface, what a poo poo show. Between physical damage and nonsense like usb killer, it's a losing proposition.

Hell, even little shits shoving in gum would be enough to make it a bad idea.

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

His Divine Shadow posted:

I added some 1uf capacitors and I got a slight hiss, that's about where I started out, it was like real bad last night so it's an improvement but a static hiss again. I tried different cables and one stereo to mono jack gave a hiss free sound.

Then I also found that one cable that's stereo works one way, but not the other. One end of that cable uses a metal bodied jack, the other is plastic. If I put the metal bodied jack into the phone I get no hiss. I double checked the channels and everything is connected correctly, no accidental stereo to mono.

Do you have a ground loop?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I just realized my Rigol scope has an Ethernet port on the back. What the hell is that for?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ante posted:

You can control it by sending it UDP commands.

I use this script basically weekly to grab screenshots:
https://github.com/rdpoor/rigol-grab


I also did some complicated scripting once, alongside an embedded device I was developing to get a whole bunch of data with different configurations.

You mean I don't have to fiddle with a thumb drive to do a screen grab? I could kiss you.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I'd like to gripe for a second about rubber wiring.

Back in the 1940s before we had decent flexible plastics, cloth covered wire gave way to the first flexible total coverage material to cover wire: rubber! It worked great!... for a few decades. By now, it's hard, inflexible, cracking, falling off and dangerous. These days, it's best to replace said wires one at a time or, if you're lucky, slide heat shrink down the length and shrink those little suckers. If you enjoy monotony, you'll love replacing rubber wiring.

OK, gripe over.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

PDP-1 posted:

At work we have a couple of rolls of teflon coated wire that are supposedly surplus from the Apollo program. The wire itself looks like it could have been made yesterday but the tin rolls it comes on are very obviously old and have 1960s-ish style design. One of our old engineers bought it at an auction then gave it to the lab before he retired and nobody has used it because nothing we work on is cool enough to warrant breaking into the moon wire stash.

I'm on vacation right now but if anyone cares remind me after the 15th and I'll post some pics when I get back.

So you're saying I should be repairing my WW2-era radios with stuff from the space race?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
No way! I love these old art deco radios.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

One Legged Ninja posted:

I was also going to suggest getting a replacement needle from an automotive instrument cluster instead of printing something, but then I looked some up, and they're more than a simple piece of plastic should ever cost.

Got a local DIY salvage yard? They'd probably have the best price.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Wait, what color LEDs? Because some of those diode tests only go up to 3 volts and white LEDs are around 3.5 volts.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ryanrs posted:

I do like the idea of a steampunk sewage detector that just runs straight 120VAC to big carbon electrodes. A red incandescent POOP sign glows when a leak is detected.

The bulb flickers as a gob of poo poo oozes off the electrodes.

This thing is gonna electrocute anyone that steps in the puddle, isn't it?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

LimaBiker posted:

Smell? Quite hard.

Actual temperature? Much easier with an infrared thermometer pointed at the spot where the engine will most likely be. Thermal imaging if you wanna be real fancy.

Seconding infrared. You might want to point it at the back of the cars to pick up the tailpipes.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ryanrs posted:

Poop Alarm?
Sewer Sentry?
Brown Alert?

Number 2.0

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Potty Spotter

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
You really are #1 in the #2 business.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

TwoDice posted:

Does anyone have a recommendation for a cheap but decent oscilloscope?

Define "cheap". How much are you looking to spend?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

some kinda jackal posted:

lmfao holy gently caress how did I go this long without a pair of magnifying goggles for soldering??

It turns out being able to clearly see what you're doing makes soldering much easier. Controversial take, I know.

I got 20/13 vision. Never saw the need for them. Then I turned 40... I should pick up a pair. My eyes don't focus as fast as they used to. Switching from my phone to the TV takes awhile.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Apr 4, 2024

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I gotta say, for dealing with vacuum tubes as often as I do, I'm glad just how reliable they are decades later. I mean, they have sockets for quick exchanges, but I rarely need such convenience.

In fact, now that I think about it, I've probably had more problems with the sockets than the tubes that go in them.

Now if only capacitors were that reliable... You young kids should be glad we don't use paper wax caps anymore. They're sticky and gross!

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Rocko Bonaparte posted:

Isn't there a kind of generational variation in the quality of capacitors? I remember it being a common enough this in the very late 90's into the early 2000's to have to resolder all the caps on a motherboard because they'd all swell and burst. That apparently resolved itself at some point?

That was electrolytic caps about 20 years ago. It was the result of corporate espionage stealing only half the formula.

It's been a thing among several lines of caps over the decades. For instance, Adrian Black on YouTube restores old Mac computers. Those 40 year old computers have Vera branded caps that are known to go bad.

We are also reaching the age in other electronics where the caps started failing. Sega consoles and peripherals from the 90s have begun having their electrolytics go bad.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ryanrs posted:

Car power is gross and nasty, so use an optoisolator. Car power can have spikes of -20 to +80V for hundreds of milliseconds.

+1 for grossness.

Now alternators do have a regulator, but it's more of a suggestion and it is meant to recharge the battery. The car's electronics are more of an afterthought. They will in turn have their own silicone covered and weather sealed regulators to run their delicate ICs and such.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Cojawfee posted:

Car power is dirty, but if this is for data coming off sensors in the car or something, wouldn't their power have been regulated before hand? I doubt they are building the ECUs to withstand 80V on the data pins.

Most sensors are fed from the ECU, which will have its own regulated supply. You'd be looking at about 11 to 15 volts supply, though the pots in some sensors will bring in low voltage depending on their position.

Rocko Bonaparte posted:

I'm surprised cars aren't just constantly frying themselves.

Some do! That was actually a recall on my F250 about 20 years ago. The brake sensor going to the cruise control could spontaneously combust, even when the car was off and parked! There was a recent recall for Kias made about 10 years ago for a very similar problem, flames and all.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Apr 8, 2024

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

CarForumPoster posted:

1 farad cap on the alternator, not cause you have a booming system but just as a low pass filter

The only use of a cap that large for a consumer that I can think of.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Shame Boy posted:

Supercaps are very useful in lots of consumer stuff but not counting those, yeah sure.

Interesting. Such as?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Speaking of cars, that's where I've seen super caps being used as replacements. It seems they wouldn't have the lifetime of a battery though.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ryanrs posted:

Actually seen them being used?

I think ElectroBOOM did a video on it.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Collateral Damage posted:

I wonder if it would be enough to power something like a wireless keyboard or mouse. Would be nice to never have to charge that again.

Oh man. That gives me a flashback. I bought Microsoft's first gen wireless keyboard and mouse. Either one took 2 AAs. The batteries in the mouse lasted 1 week. The keyboard lasted a month.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ryanrs posted:

So why are RIFA caps still being manufactured? What's so good about them to offset the large physical size, high price, and explosive failures?

Rifa is one of those brands known to fail, isn't it?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I was thinking back now and it was indeed RIFA caps in old Mac computers that are known to go bad. I said some wrong 4 letter brand previously.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Paper caps have always been junk. Back in the 40s and 50s it was the acids in the paper would throw off the values over the decades, eventually shorting.

Edit: and they were covered in wax, so they're gross and sticky.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I always liked what farmers did in the old days for dead car batteries: zap them with a welder!

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

The Wonder Weapon posted:


Previously someone in the thread mentioned testing with the diode tester on the LED strip. I don't have that setting, so I tried measuring voltage at the copper pads, but to be honest I don't really know what I'm looking for. Here's my voltmeter, and here's the strip. What exact points do I need to be checking, on what setting, to test the other colors?




You can't do it with your multimeter I'm afraid. You need a DMM with a diode test. A diode test basically puts 3 volts out through the probes and measures how many volts return. 3 volts is enough to make most LEDs glow. Most colors will light fully while white and blue LEDs will glow dimly. They like around 3.5 volts to be at their brightest.

Keep in mind that a diode test is a directional test as diodes are polarized devices. Even a good, functioning diode will fail a diode test if hooked up backwards. The same goes for Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs).

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I just squeeze 'em with needle nose pliers.

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