|
I think I got it. Voltage is really just a point of reference? And now for the big question: how long do you have to solder by hand before you start to think you're "good at soldering"? You can see my board rework in my picture above. I think I'm poo poo. I couldn't lift those zeners without destroying the trace between them.
|
#
¿
Dec 23, 2013 02:48
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 8, 2024 21:47 |
|
|
Aurium posted:What's your soldering iron? Weller WP35 with a couple different tips I use depending on the size of what I'm working with. I thought it was a 45W iron, but according to google it's a 35W iron. I picked it up at my local hobbyist store. I didn't spend $50 like they want online for it though, more like $35, not including the separate tips. Did I get a knock off? I also got a 15W-or-30W switchable Radio Shack iron in my parts bin some place. I didn't like that thing since I could never get the tip to tin no matter what I did to it.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 23, 2013 07:27
|
|
|
Remember me from a month ago? I've been kicking that voltage/water pressure analogy around in my head and I think I got a better one. Someone tell me if this makes sense. Voltage is relative to where you start from. Imagine you have a sink full of water and a big but empty balloon floating on it. To you, the water in the sink and whatever water is in the balloon is at your average pressure (aka zero volts). Well, you hook the balloon up to the tap, fill it until it's bulging and tie it shut. The balloon's rubber keeps trying to return to its smaller size, squeezing the water inside into a smaller volume and causing a higher pressure (aka positive voltage). Now imagine you're a fish living in this balloon. In fact, you were born in this balloon. As far as you're concerned, the water in that balloon is at average pressure (again zero volts). Well, one day that rear end in a top hat human standing by the sink pops your balloon. The water in the balloon at a higher pressure escapes into the sink since it's at a lower pressure. Once the water pressure in the balloon has stabilized with the water pressure in the sink, that poor fish inside the balloon now thinks it's at lower pressure (aka negative voltage). Does that work?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2014 22:34
|
|
|
Skyscraper posted:I don't know if this is the thread for it, but I'm trying to source a really specific kind of switch (either off/on or off/on/mom) and I can't find anything like it by just browsing on octopart or digikey. Does anyone know what kind of switches these are: Of all the pictures to use... What screwed up psychological experiment was that movie still from? They were shocking the person in the other room? I remember watching it in high school. Skyscraper, what exactly are you trying to build? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Jan 28, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2014 22:39
|
|
|
^^ thanksSkyscraper posted:Thanks, that does look a lot like what I'm after! Is there another name for blade switches that I could find them under? I refuse to believe that Octopart and Digi-key don't have ANY. You might have to turn to a site more for music instrument repair. Try here: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Components:_Switches_and_knobs.html http://www.guitarelectronics.com/c=NcWzfk9j521KSqGwSPObF9fnr/category/electronic_parts.switches.guitar___bass_lever_switches/ I'd still like to know what you're making after posting a picture like that. Do you need the switches for actual switching or are they just props? You know, I bet I could find some old piece of equipment from the 50s-60s at my local electronic hobbyist store in their "obsolete crap" section that might have switches like that I could salvage. Do you have a local store like that? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Jan 28, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2014 23:02
|
|
|
Skyscraper posted:Good eye, Sinister! Yeah, that's a replica Milgram set I'm trying to make, and I'm hoping to rig the switches to an Arduino and a noisemaker, not a... well, I'd say a car battery and someone's genitals, but the actual "real" Milgram sets were themselves completely fake. Riiiiiiiiiiiight, "replica"...  I doubt you'll find any modern switches made like that besides guitar switches. Only vintage electronics still in use today like guitars would still have switches like that available. I was googling around for switch styles like that. Apparently old telephone exchanges used switches like that too? How about $1.42 apiece? http://www.aliexpress.com/popular/electrical-switch-knobs.html JawnV6 posted:I've been idly searching combinations of "guitar", "5-way", "switch", "switchcraft", "blade switch", "potentiometer" and others over at http://www.eciaauthorized.com and haven't found an appropriate one all day. The best result came from plugging int he manufacturer listed at kid sinister's stewmac link, electroswitch. FYI, for oddball-shaped part searches like that, Google image search is probably the best way to rapidly search lots of parts. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jan 29, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2014 04:43
|
|
I did a quick scan of the mouser results from lowest priced and didn't see any of the pictures that matched your reference until I hit $8/part.
|
What would cause my home theater receiver to suddenly stop working with every remote that should control it, including the one that came with it? The receiver works just fine via its face buttons, and I made sure to check that nobody covered the IR receiver with tape or something. The remotes all apparently work, as far as I can tell. They all passed the digital camera test and operate other components fine. How do I test if an IR receiver is working? Edit: never mind, all my remotes work again. What the gently caress happened for an hour straight? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 02:52 on May 7, 2014 |
|
#
¿
May 7, 2014 02:30
|
|
|
Motronic posted:What new light bulb or other device did you turn on during that time that raised the ambient IR level above what the receiver could handle? It keeps going in and out and I can't figure out why. It's 10:15 at night, all the windows are covered, the lights are off, nothing else is on. When I started typing this, it wasn't working, but I had to check on my wife for 20 minutes. I come back and at first it worked, but now it doesn't again. edit: whenever it does work, it only lasts for a minute or so... kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:27 on May 7, 2014 |
|
#
¿
May 7, 2014 04:25
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Do you emit high levels of IR radiation? Like when you're nervous or something, perhaps as a threat response? No, when I'm aroused.  Edit: hey, it works when I hit it! Loose connection? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:02 on May 7, 2014 |
|
#
¿
May 7, 2014 04:28
|
|
|
sixide posted:I happen to know you can do this with nothing more than a rubber band. You remember how in Back to the Future they knew where and when lightning was going to strike? We need to put together a 1.21 GW railgun together and meet at Sequoia National Park in 5 days. The target: General Sherman.
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2014 00:49
|
|
|
Boy With Stick posted:I don't know why I needed to translate that, I was pretty sure you were talking about Huaqiangbei. Last time I was there I bought way too many cables and a few stacks of various protoboards. I still can't believe a place like that exists. Well I'm not in the know. What's Huaqiangbei?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2014 22:31
|
|
|
So the vibration on my Samsung Galaxy Nexus wasn't working, so I took it apart and found out that one of the leads on the vibration motor was bent to the point that it broke. Well, I carefully cut the glue away, soldered a new lead on, then tore the pad off the trace by accident. gently caress. My question is this: are all component cell phone vibration motors the same? Amazon has lots for sale apparently. How can I tell what specs would I need, beyond what would fit in the case? My Google Fu is failing me.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2014 23:05
|
|
|
I found the part number too. The problem is that I can't find one in the US in stock, for what looks like a generic component.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2014 00:23
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:If you don't mind pulled ones from old phones/tablets and ebay there's some in Florida: No, mine is a discrete component with 2 wire leads, not on a flex board like that one. Kasan posted:You could also share the part number with the rest of us, and we could take a look at the specs and point you in the right direction of a replacement. JawnV6 posted:GH31-00554A Also, written on one side is "30ZF 2217HV" kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Jun 27, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2014 17:48
|
|
|
poeticoddity posted:If you make sure that the voltage and current rating for the motor you want to replace it with are equal to or higher than the ratings for the stock replacement, you should be fine as long as it actually fits in the case. So is this still the best advice for replacing my vibrator motor? I haven't been able to find any specs for it at all. All I got are some generic 3V motors on Amazon that match the dimensions of the old one, and this one that claims to work for all Samsung models without listing any of its own specs. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jun 30, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2014 04:36
|
|
|
SoundMonkey posted:While I am not even close to an expert in this field, a 3V one with a similar form factor will probably be at least close enough. These aren't precision instruments and it's not like any of them draw ten times the current of another or anything. Oh poo poo, you make a great point. This is a phone, it doesn't need to last a decade. It has less than 1-2 years before it's completely obsolete anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2014 00:07
|
|
|
As a circuitry noob, I want an oscilloscope so bad and I'm not sure why. So... what exactly can they do?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2014 05:15
|
|
|
BattleMaster posted:and you won't know how you lived without it once you learn how to use it. Huh. It turns out that that's exactly what I thought they were for. The problem is: can anyone explain why I had that feeling? Or is that just the next logical step from working with a multimeter, wondering "yeah, if I can measure that accurately, that would be awesome"?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2014 06:05
|
|
|
Slanderer posted:years of cultural exposure has associated scopes showing static test waveforms with mad scientists and poo poo. I think you just nailed it. 
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2014 06:35
|
|
|
Kasan posted:Pong! (an MIT student did this with A/D converters and potentiometers.) Even I can answer this one! That's more likely Tennis For Two, one of the very first video games.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2014 07:26
|
|
|
Thanks for all the O-scope input everyone. I got another noob question about another common circuit tool: breadboards. I get that they're used for circuit prototyping, but how exactly? I've never used one. I know that their holes are used temporary connections of components, but I assume that would entail that the holes are grouped somehow to take the place of board traces, right? If so, how are they grouped?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2014 02:01
|
|
|
What is the best way to repair copper traces lifting off a flex board? I've got 2 flex boards layered and wrapped around the back side of the gauge cluster in my truck. No traces have broken yet, but I'm more worried that now they're free, they're also flexible enough to reach and short to neighboring traces that have also lifted. Also, what would be the best way to repair a torn contact pad on a flex board? I had to replace a bulb in that cluster and tore a pad by twisting the twist lock bulb holder back in. For now I just flattened the copper back down as best I could and used a section of solder wick held in place by the contact of that twist lock bulb holder, which isn't ideal to bridge the gap. I'd like something more permanent. Any ideas for those 2 repairs?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 27, 2014 22:16
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:What is the best way to repair copper traces lifting off a flex board? I've got 2 flex boards layered and wrapped around the back side of the gauge cluster in my truck. No traces have broken yet, but I'm more worried that now they're free, they're also flexible enough to reach and short to neighboring traces that have also lifted. Anyone know about repairing flex boards?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 28, 2014 23:22
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:What is the best way to repair copper traces lifting off a flex board? I've got 2 flex boards layered and wrapped around the back side of the gauge cluster in my truck. No traces have broken yet, but I'm more worried that now they're free, they're also flexible enough to reach and short to neighboring traces that have also lifted. One last time, does anyone know how to repair flex boards?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2014 01:07
|
|
|
ante posted:Holy poo poo, dude, no. We read your posts. It's possible, but it's really loving hard, and there's no magic formula or anything. Hot glue it or something to try and stop it failing, but it's a truck part. Spares are available. Oh sorry, I didn't realize your previous post was in reply to mine. I saw that way oversized wire you were trying to solder to that flex ribbon and I thought you were just trying to make a mess. I do have a spare instrument panel from a newer model in the same generation as my truck, but they look nothing alike, complete with a daughter hardboard that I'm guessing is an anti-slosh mechanism for the fuel gauge? Don't mind me, I'm just bitching about needing to go back to my local Pick N Pull for a replacement, then to swap in the original odometer. It's a lot of work.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2014 01:26
|
|
|
Slanderer posted:kaptop tape for fixing the lifted traces--it's non-conductive and works at higher temperatures Ooooooh, that stuff looks neat. I tried electrical tape already with my lifted traces and the glue failed on the first sunny day outside. Thanks for the copper tape idea too. I shouldn't have too many problems with that pad I tore. It was for an gauge illumination bulb, in parallel with 4 others on nice, fat buses. Plus, this flex board is 26 years old, so that should give you an idea of how wide the pathways are. poo poo, now that I think about it, I had to fix the flex board connector on a Nintendo DS touchscreen that I broke 6-7 years back. You're right, it's not fun, scraping off coatings to solder on 30 gauge wire...
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2014 04:07
|
|
|
This might sound bad, but when I'm working with SMD parts, I have a beer or 2 first just to steady my hands. It helps.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 6, 2014 02:06
|
|
|
Effective-Disorder posted:I recall one time when I was very young, I picked up the wrong end of the iron without looking. Safety first, but failing that it's booze, bandages, and cursing. Been there, done that. I didn't notice my thumb was on the iron just a few weeks ago. I touched my thumb to the iron shroud right on a callus so I smelled it before I felt it. Strange thing was that it never hurt even with a weird colored scorch mark.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 6, 2014 19:05
|
|
|
No Egrets posted:I'm really excited to start making things and working on electronics. I ordered the Make: Electronics book and I'm now looking at getting tools. What are people's opinions about prepackaged toolkits? I was looking at this one from Adafruit: https://www.adafruit.com/products/136 Well it looks complete. About the only thing it doesn't include that's handy would be helping hands.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2014 19:27
|
|
|
I got me a new toy!      It has "JAPAN" pressed into the "top grain genuine cowhide" (ooh! ahh!). Judging from the styling, it's from the early to mid 1960's, back when "Made in Japan" = poo poo. This thing barely works. The only mode that isn't quiet is AM, and even that isn't very loud even at full volume with brand new batteries. FM does come in, at a mouse's whisper. SW is a little louder than the FM, but I can't seem to tune in any stations clearly. I got some questions: 1. So how do I fix this thing? I've never touched radios before. 2. What the hell does the "AFC" on the band selector knob mean? Judging from the face, this thing only has 3 modes, but that knob has 4 selections. 3. That "AC CONV" socket above the volume/power knob looks like a barrel plug. No specs are given, but I assume it needs 6V DC to match the battery output. How do I determine how much amperage I would need for a wallwart, or for that matter the polarity of the connector? It is just smaller than a standard 5.5mm OD barrel plug. 4. What are those weird square components on the board with the colored flathead screws inside that look glued in place? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Oct 4, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2014 20:53
|
|
|
SoundMonkey posted:A thousand times this. I'd be real surprised if half the electrolytics weren't hosed. At first glance, all the electrolytic caps are fine, but there is this green non-electrolytic cap between the transformers that is covered in some white powder. It's the only one on the boards that looks like that. It's marked code:Also, that band selector switch is the most complicated switch I've even seen. I can't even count how many poles and throws it has. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Oct 4, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2014 23:23
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Those are tuning coils. Don't mess with them unless you have access to the equipment you need and a diagram to tune the radio. It's probably (close to) fine. Interesting. Got a wiki page for them? Also, is there a reason for the different colors? Are they color coded like resistors?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2014 00:20
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:That's 50 Working Volts. Aha! Thank you. For the 3 other smaller caps, they didn't even have the "V" after the W. I never tore one open, but somehow I bet the cheaper USB car chargers you buy at gas stations just have a resistor inside to knock 12V down to 5V. That being said, what's your draw? I know that there are all kinds of PSUs to run even a PC off a car.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2014 03:15
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:edit: Is a big cap, a dc-dc converter, and a hefty crowbar circuit gonna be good enough? Nah, you need a 1 farad subwoofer cap  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iVtH152yg8 Motronic posted:It's very similar to what you spin to tune the radio, just smaller. It's a variable inductor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductor I followed some of those links on that page. I accidentally moved one of the windings on the loopstick antenna because the wax holding it in place got loose. Is that bad? Will I need to retune this thing? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Oct 5, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2014 05:01
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Well, if it kinda works I'd start with cleaning all of the switches with DeOxit to make sure they are actually making contact. And inspect all of the electrolytic caps in there for bulging/leaking. Replace as necessary. That will likely make it work. Yeah, about that... I planned on replacing all the electrolytic caps and that film (I think) one that looks damaged. Well, a few of the caps are weird values. I would need 2 at 200 uF, 1 at 3uF and 3 at 30uF. I couldn't find those at my local hobby shop, the closest I found were 220 uF, 3.3 uF and 33 uF, respectively. Is that going to cause a problem? Will I need to retune it? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Oct 7, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2014 22:25
|
|
|
Can anybody help with my cap question? Will my next-highest-value caps work, or will that screw with the tuning on my half century old radio? I got the closest matches I could find at my local hobby shop, but I still managed to find matches for those weird valued ones over at Newark. Is that my best bet?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2014 02:42
|
|
|
Base Emitter posted:Old capacitors (and some new ones) have a tolerance of something like 20%. If you replace a 200uF cap with a 220uF you will be within the original tolerance (technically the new cap should be 10% tolerance but whatever). Thanks for the cap help, everybody. I replaced most of them before my desoldering pump broke. I'm glad I tested The 5uF caps I did manage to find. One came in at 10uF and the other brought up "OL" on my meter. Looks like I will have to order some specialty ones after all. By the way, what does it mean exactly when a cap tests "OL" besides it's broken? Some of the old ones I pulled up and replaced also tested out the same way. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Oct 11, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Oct 11, 2014 01:27
|
|
|
I got another cap question, but in general this time. Is there an explanation for the stepping values of electrolytic capacitors? They don't appear to follow any formula... 10, 22, 33, 47, multiply by ten and repeat...
|
|
#
¿
Oct 11, 2014 19:45
|
|
|
My old crappy transistor radio works again! Thanks for all the capacitor help everyone, that sure did the trick. I made a few upgrades too, like putting all of the panel jacks on quick disconnects so I can quickly take the board out of its case without needing to unsolder the wires first. However, I still need some more help. Remember that "AC CONV" jack on the side? I'm trying to find a power supply for it. I managed to hook my multimeter in series with the batteries to measure the amperage. I should only need a 6V ~100mA wallwart for it, which is no big deal. I've found tons already. However, what's holding me up is that the existing plug on the side of the radio takes a 2.1mm x 5.0mm plug. I assume I'll need to chop the existing plug off a wallwart and solder on a new plug, but I can't even find a "x 5.0mm" plug online except for those swappable plugs for adjustable power supplies. Does anyone know where I can find one?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2014 03:48
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 8, 2024 21:47 |
|
|
poeticoddity posted:This clearly isn't the most mechanically stable solution, but 2.1mm x 5.5mm plugs abound online, and I'd be willing to bet most of them have at least .5mm of travel on the spring clip for the outer connection. Uhh, 5.5mm is too big to fit in a 5.0mm hole...
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2014 19:49
|
|