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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ryanrs posted:

It's possible I could force them in with hot air, but I think I'll just order some new boards. It's 2-layer, so manufacturing time is quite fast.

You couldn't salvage them with a hand drill bit?

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Foxfire_ posted:

Automotive power is typically pretty dirty with lots of inductive stuff dumping current. Having the "12v" line go up to 100v for 10-100ms isn't unusual

What he said. Spikes as solenoids and motors activate/deactivate are the norm. Hell, car audio guys will install full farad capacitors on their amps to keep the headlights from dimming.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
All this talk of isolation transformers made me think of one of my favorite facts about old radios. Before permanent magnets were invented, radios used electromagnets in their speakers. We take for granted how far we've come.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I suppose I should have said practical permanent magnets.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

PokeJoe posted:

have them speak into a 9 volt battery they can simply lick when lying

That reminds me of a quick way to test Lightning cables. You can see if it's good for charging at least by licking them.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

His Divine Shadow posted:

How easy (or difficult) is it to change the color of the display on a unit like this? As you can see it's reddish. I would like it to be green to match the rest of the car.

I assume there's a lamp (led diode perhaps) somewhere inside it that backlights the LCD display and gives it color. I don't think it should be that difficult if I can get at it.



Is that an LCD or a VFD? Because you'd have to change the phosphor inside the sealed tube if it's a VFD, vacuum it out again and finally seal the glass.

It'd be easier to just get a newer RGB head unit. You can pick any color you want with those via the interface.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Did you try hitting it? No, seriously. I bet there's a bad solder joint inside making the magic pixies jump the gap and causing the amps to go up. Does it act up (or stop acting up) if you give it a good thump? That would make sense if it only acts up after it's been on for awhile: it got hot and connections expanded.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Aug 29, 2023

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
You know your electronics fixes are good when they involve a trip to the local auto parts store.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I hate early PCBs!!!!

Seriously, 1950s circuit boards are an exercise in pain: lifting traces, warping, etc. I wouldn't wish these on my worst enemy.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Nice monsteras!

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Pham Nuwen posted:

Exactly!

It looks like I can just get guitar amplifier pilot lights for about $10 each, but they're 6V incandescent bulbs which is less convenient.

6.3V is a common side tap for tube powered equipment, like guitar amps.

I restore old radios. Any bulb over 3 volts these days will most likely have a drop in LED replacement. Most will fit in the housings for those old bulbs.

Also, bulbs aren't picky about AC or DC. Most of those LED replacements will take a range of input too. You might just be able to drop them in and have them work.

edit: Honestly, I'd just google "pilot lamp" and find one that you like. They come in all sorts of shapes and colors.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Oct 14, 2023

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Foxfire_ posted:

I would expect a 50 year old sewing machine to have little-to-no consideration for EMI.

The 1970s was when the FCC started started clamping down on interference.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Bad Munki posted:

The days of plumbing being a reliable source of ground are long gone.

Yep. PEX is here to stay. You're only allowed to ground to metal water pipes now within 6 feet of the service entrance where those 6 feet can be visually verified.

Also, depending on how your electric panel is grounded, couldn't you be making a ground loop?

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Oct 24, 2023

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
The critical part would be the scope. To be small and cheap enough to fit in a kit, it would have to be something portable, like 1 channel for $80.

I like the idea of putting all that stuff together in a proper hard case though.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

His Divine Shadow posted:

but I needed it working because it's time to start the christmas lighting.

We're going to see this yard on YouTube, aren't we?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Cojawfee posted:

The answer to "can I make my own for less?" is almost always no. Even if you consider your own time to be worth $0 an hour.

Ain't that the truth. You're not buying parts in the thousands to get that sweet, sweet quantity discount like the big boys can afford.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Charles Ford posted:

I only shocked myself once with 240V, but I agree it was the best as it made me make a cartoonish "ababababababa" noise and left a little scorch mark. 110V just felt like a strange little massage, thankfully I was not grounded.

You're only a pro once you can tell the difference between AC and DC.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

His Divine Shadow posted:

What kind of symbol is this? First I thought a transformer, but it looks like an inductor? And L is also the symbol for an inductor. L1 I guess. Never seen something like this before however.

It's for a radio on the FM reception circuit. Still digging through the service manual. The radio has four bands LW,MW,SW and FM. The FM band doesn't work at all, just static and turning the dial doesn't even alter the sound.

So I'm trying to figure out how the thing works, this seems to sit between the antenna and pre-amplifier for the FM circuit.



e: Pretty sure it's a bandpass filter now.

I restore old radios. That's called an IF transformer.

Shame Boy is right. These have ferrite slugs you adjust when aligning the radio. If you're lucky, yours won't be stuck!

Edit: adjust it with something non conductive. They make cheap anti static alignment kits for like $20 on Amazon.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Dec 21, 2023

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

His Divine Shadow posted:

I don't have the skill or equipment to adjust the ferrite slugs

I don't have the skills either. I do it anyway. It's all about peaking voltages. It helps if you have an analog meter. It doesn't get simpler than "make needle go further right".

I was just joking about the slugs being frozen. The most stuck ones I've ever twisted let loose with a mighty CRACK and turned fine after that.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Hey, I could use a Pi with a bottle opener.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ante posted:

24v DC, not AC, right?

That was my thought too, although 24VAC is common for several household uses, like your doorbell and HVAC signalling.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Meanwhile I just have my Hakko. Maybe I'm missing out by going cordless?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I hadn't even considered tip availability for these portable irons. They're no Hakko or Weller. Do they have anywhere near the tips of those two?

I like my tips.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
You're absolutely sure that you don't have the brake lights mistakenly wired into your head unit's wiring harness? Because the tail lights are 12V too. Maybe someone picked up the Reverse switch on the transmission selector wrong.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ryanrs posted:

FYI, LEDs are one of the only things I will prototype/breadboard before committing to a PCB. You just have to see them for real to understand what an LED will look like.

What, you don't like blinding customers? :v:

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Rocko Bonaparte posted:

(I already had a pile of resistors, capacitors, wires, and some cables, so I didn't order a bunch of those)

There's no such thing as too many of those.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I just keep stacks of the little plastic baggies you get from Mouser and Digikey. It's... not ideal.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
^^^^There is no such thing as too many jumpers.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Speaking of jumpers, who makes good multimeter probes and clips? Should I fork out the dough for a Fluke probe set for my Fluke multimeter?

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jan 18, 2024

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Foxfire_ posted:

My good probes (spring loaded, crown tip, overkill if you aren't probing small things) are from https://probemaster.com

Oh geez, they even make probes especially for back probing.

Pro Tip: keep a package of sewing needles in your tool bag for back probing. They're as cheap as can be and in a pinch are sold in most stores. T pins are an alternative that are easier on your fingers, but you have to be more careful with the pins touching. It works great on weatherproof connectors, like in cars.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

PDP-1 posted:

Google for 'flexible light pipe'.

Interesting. I assume these are just cheap set length fiber optics?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ryanrs posted:

I love it!

Optical hoses to connect your glowing crystals together, just like sci-fi tv shows promised.

In my lifetime, fiber optics have gone from "state of the art" to "oh gently caress I forgot to panel mount my LED".

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

derk posted:

looking for some help.

So about 7 years ago i botched a soldering job on my OG xbox. i fixed the LPC pin header and got the chip installed, BUT

how hosed am i for the D0 wire i need to solder here (3rd hole down) and i can not get any solder to stay in the hole, i dont remember what i did years ago when i gave up and was frustrated.





https://imgur.com/RZ6ke7I
https://imgur.com/ie7nhVM
https://imgur.com/YDdPgnU

This is very salvageable. I've seen much worse.

FYI, those holes are called vias. Their job is to connect traces on different levels of the board.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

derk posted:

well, that is good to know! i didn't screw it up beyond repair

Now the hard part: you'll need to work with the itsiest-bitsiest wire you've ever seen: 30 gauge kynar wire.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Bad Munki posted:


e: Okay, yeah, I've got my capacitor anode/cathode terms mixed up. Nonetheless, the negative pole on the cap is marked, and all the footprints I'd seen marked the positive pole, and it makes no dang sense! I'll do the one-side-filled thing for my silkscreen.

This is right. Cathode is where electrons come from. Electron flow is opposite of conventional flow. The way I remember it is thinking of old CRTs. They had an electron gun shooting electrons at the screen, the cathode ray.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ante posted:

Yeeeeeah


You know there's a backwards tantalum up on the International Space Station?

There were many meetings with the cap manufacturer to discuss whether it needed to be replaced.
The conclusion was that it's really really overspecced, so it should be okay

Don't tantalums catch fire if they're backwards?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

ryanrs posted:

But old HP stuff was hot poo poo back in the day

This is the truth. HP test equipment was the top of the line for decades, up there with Techtronix for scopes. Like Techtronix, expect great documentation too. They changed their name more recently though. Or got bought out. I want to say Agilent?

ryanrs posted:

Lots of calibration sticker residue likely means it spent its life in a climate controlled commercial or govt lab, with yearly calibration.

Also the truth. My VTVM still has its badge from the University of Oregon and I've never been to the west coast.

Edit: v v v thanks

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Feb 6, 2024

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Should we hold a contest and see who has the oldest test equipment? I might win though. I got stuff from the 50s.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

:swoon:

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
The only way to protect against a USBkill is with a locking cabinet.

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