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If you need any sort of help with that sort of poo poo, I think there's a huge userbase of people that use those to make DIY cintiq clones over at http://forum.bongofish.co.uk/
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Feb 25, 2013 20:18
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ANIME AKBAR posted:Having an arduino run at >100MHz would be awesome in a way... There are already ports of the Arduino language to ARM Cortex boards and those have cracked 100mhz, though I think a bunch are still chugging along at 70-something MHz. http://leaflabs.com/ has a complete solution including their Arduino-like IDE. e: Oh pff, Arduino Due already runs at 84mhz on a Cortex M3. I'm pretty behind the times.
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Mar 19, 2013 05:26
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Does anyone have a good guide to how to go about diagnosing problems with an LCD monitor's backlight? I found an old-ish 28" monitor in the e-waste bin that powers on, shows an image, then almost immediately kills the CCFLs. You can still see the image if you shine a light into the screen so I'm kind of hoping I can make this a DIY try-to-repair thing. Other than checking various caps though, I'm not sure where else to look. Right now I'm just trying to poke around without killing myself on the high voltage CCFL board.
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May 1, 2013 19:55
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Heyy, connectorchat! I want to route three connectors (two 3x2, one 5x2) from an AVR Dragon board I just bought to the outside of a project enclosure. I'd like to retain the standard 6 and 10 pin header layout, but I'd like something that can I can mount to the side of a project box, so something with screw holes, and ideally it would protect the pins so I don't just have bare pins sticking out of the side of a box. Think along the lines of the kind of connector you used to see on motherboards to plug a serial port cable into -- keyed, outer plastic enclosure. The only difference is that I'd like something which can be mounted to a surface. I'm not looking for anyone to slave through a catalog for me until they find something -- I can do that myself (and am, right now, going through Newark's database), but if anyone knows what this might be called off the top of their head or where I can find something that matches this description that would probably cut down on my headaches substantially. Thanks! Newark has like a trillion connectors and I am very bad at discerning what is what just because of the high volume of data.
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Jun 4, 2013 19:38
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Thanks everyone. I'm fine with using a 10pin since I can just jury rig a smaller cable without using all 10 pins for the 3x2. It's obviously perfect for the 5x2 I want. And thanks for slaving, Jonny. I was about to go down the epoxy road myself but it looks like the 10 pin panel thing will be ideal. So many names for sooo many connectors  Also I just now learned that Assmann is a thing and I am giggling like a child. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Jun 4, 2013 |
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Jun 4, 2013 22:19
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longview posted:You get a logic analyzer. An oscilloscope ought to do 
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Jun 9, 2013 18:26
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longview posted:Yeah sure, oscilloscope is good Well to debug logic, sure you want a logic analyzer. to measure bounce time you probably only need an osc. Also I always have clown music going when I do electronic stuff. It's a motif.
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Jun 10, 2013 04:51
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What's a good go-to low-volume PCB etching shop? I need to etch maybe a 2"x2" board and I have zero interest in getting the chemicals right now. Doesn't need to be speedy so a Chinese shop is fine, I just don't know what the good ones are. I'm using all through-hole components but I can drill my own holes if it's cheaper, etc.
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Jun 11, 2013 16:44
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No rush on my part for this particular project so I'll check out Seeed, thanks!
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Jun 11, 2013 17:14
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Which one are you referring to?
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Jun 11, 2013 17:45
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Hey guys, this is an Eagle question: Is there a way to change the snap crosshairs for certain parts while in board layout mode without disabling the grid? For example, I have two keyed and shrouded pin headers: 6 pin (3x2) and 10 pin (5x2) that I'd like to align on their left hand side one above the other: [:::] [:::::] However the snap crosshairs are in the middle of the part so while the grid is on I can only get a close approximation of "alignment". What I'd like to do is change the snap crosshair to the centre of pin 1 for each one, then I can line them up precisely using the grid. I can take a screenshot if it would help explain better, but hopefully someone knows where I'm going with this. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Jun 17, 2013 |
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Jun 17, 2013 14:52
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This being just a little pet project I'll probably end up aligning them by hand before I ship it off to be printed, or maybe just centre-align them, but I'll give the multiple grids a try first. Seems like such a simple thing in theory, to just snap given any arbitrary point on an object, but I guess if the functionality exists then it's not very obvious 
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Jun 17, 2013 15:18
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In the interest of time I just placed everything around a common vertical centre, but since I'm learning Eagle I'll take your suggestions to heart and do up a custom library of stuff I'm working with. Quick question about the autorouter now:  Is this normal? Specifically the routing to pins 1, 3. Pins 2 and 4 seem to have routed properly, but 1 and 3 have overshot and backtraced? Is this something that I should fix manually or is this not a big deal? I took a look at my gerber outputs and the overshoot is there as well. I'm guessing this has something to do with the autorouter being fixed to ortho and 45 degrees, but I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not. I guess PCB routing is one of those things that looks simple but is actually loaded with a ton of rules and gotchas, but as a hobbyist that just wants to crank a quick board out is it worth going through and hand-routing everything as long as it's connected? I ran the board through Seeed's design rules and nothing exploded so does that actually make it safe to ship off, or is that just a rudimentary check? This is just a small board to break out my AVR Dragon's internal pin headers to pin headers on my project box so it's just a 1:1 wire connection where not much can go wrong, but nevertheless I'm still worried about bungling this somehow.
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Jun 17, 2013 16:38
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I typically don't like to auto-anything, but in this case I wanted to see if it would give me any passable results. I reduced the autoroute grid from 1.27mm to 1mm and it worked a little better. Have to check it against Seeed's dru's but it sounds like I should be able to just use it as is. Thanks again 
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Jun 17, 2013 17:13
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Newark has some kind of Schrodinger's cat inventory system going on: The superposition is collapsed by hitting the place order button.
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Jun 19, 2013 13:57
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Man I ordered my PCBs from Seeed because I thought I wouldn't mind waiting for shipping from China, but I think next time I'll just go with OSHPark and pay a little more for the convenience of not having a two week and change turnaround time. I'm assuming my board will get here this week but meh.
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Jul 2, 2013 19:02
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Speaking of SMD iron-soldering, what sort of tip is preferred for working with 0805? I have a temp controlled Weller that takes tips, but I only have a rather blunt round tip. I'm not really sure how to describe it but I'm wondering what people prefer to use.
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Jul 3, 2013 02:26
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That's pretty awesome. I have a company account with Newark and we get free next-day UPS shipping for "free" (I mean I'm sure the university pays for it somehow, I just never see it on my invoice) but for personal stuff I might have to check that out. $8, you can't really beat that.
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Jul 4, 2013 01:26
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OSHpark: Do you guys happen to know what their rules on panelization are? Seeed wouldn't allow any panelization by means of drill holes, etc. It had to be stencil then DIY-cut. I have four small boards (like 3cm x 5cm) that I'd like to maybe panelize roughly by adding drill-holes as an easy-break. My board seems to pass their design rules check but they don't seem to have an explicit panelization thing on their site that I can find. Unless I'm just looking in the wrong place. I contacted them and I'm sure they'll get back to me, but I figured I'd fire off a question here too.
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Jul 5, 2013 15:24
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Oh neat. That'll save me considerable effort. Going to head in this direction until I hear back.
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Jul 5, 2013 16:21
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Got my boards back from Seeed finally. Man, some of these traces are reeeeally cutting it close. I didn't account for the silvering of the through-holes so I've literally got like a hair's break between a hole and a trace. They were e-tested so I'm not sure if that means there's currently no leakage, but since it's just two traces I might razor blade them and run a jumper wire just to be safe. I'll file this one away under "lessons learned". I'll have to go back to the Eagle layout and see how it looks so I know what to expect next time.  Not sure why the heck I routed pin4 between 1 and 2 instead of out and around them  -- that just seems like a weirdo autorouter decision that I didn't catch.
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Jul 8, 2013 20:01
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Delta-Wye posted:Is there any other sort of autorouter decision? Eh, kind of. The weird route-poo poo-between-pins could have been fixed somewhat with some vias. This particular board is just a 1:1 10-pin passthrough. There are two 5x2 headers on the board, one on each side of the board, only the header on one side is flipped and upside down to better match a cable that attaches to it. It's kind of dumb but hopefully it works well
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 22:57
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I'm looking at that little picture and it seems much more complicated than needed.
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Good idea. It's just a pet project so if I wasted $15 I'm not too stressed over it, but hopefully they'll work as is.
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Jul 8, 2013 23:02
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Yeah, lesson learned I've already got a second board ready and it's definitely going to be hand-routed.
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Jul 9, 2013 03:57
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How does load capacitance play into selecting a crystal to drive an AVR uC? I'm looking at newark and I see ranges from like 7 to 30pF. I guess first of all I'm not really sure how the load capacitance plays into selection, so I have no idea how to work out which crystal to spec out. Is this somewhere in the datasheet for my AVR or should I be able to math this out myself?
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Jul 19, 2013 03:43
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For reference, I'm talking about the crystal's OWN load capacitance, not the two capacitors that sit on the AVR's xtal lines. The reference layout has two capacitors whose values are listed in the chart, but the crystal itself has this mysterious "load capacitance" that I don't know how to factor in. If I need to at all, I mean. Like for example, this search comes up with a few crystals, but the have load capcitances ranging between 15pf and 50pf so I don't know if I need to worry about matching that with something or not.
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Jul 19, 2013 04:48
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Brilliant, bedtime reading material. Thanks for this edit: Also apparently I have no idea what the difference between a crystal and oscillator are  But I'm about to find out! some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Jul 19, 2013 |
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Jul 19, 2013 05:49
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I have an old Tek TDS420A that I found in the junk bin. It fails the Attenuation/Acquisition POST and one channel was completely fubar when I pulled it out. I'm reading everywhere that this is just a matter of replacing a poo poo ton of caps on the board, but I think it's a losing battle at this point. I started replacing stuff and instead of one channel gone wonky now it's just completely off the board on every channel. I might part it out on eBay or something since people love fixing poo poo like this up, and it has a bunch of useful boards like an external VGA hookup, etc. But it sounds like I just need to pick up a new DSO. Owning a DSO really spoiled me. I have an older Tek something-or-other analog scope that does pretty much everything I need other than .. well, signal storage .. but I can't help but feel like I'm banging two rocks together after having access to all the neat stuff my 420 did
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Jul 31, 2013 21:15
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Same with Newark/Farnell. I don't know if it's just the contract they have with my university, but all my components are here on the first FedEx truck in the morning, if ordered by 5. It's super impressive
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Aug 9, 2013 05:06
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Do any of you guys mill your own PCBs on a CNC? I'm wondering whether solder resist mask will still be effective in this scenario. I'm specifically wondering about the depth difference between the bare milled fibreglass and the un-milled copper. Whether or not it becomes too deep at some point for solder mask paint to be effective. I'm just assuming that the thermal application solder mask is useless due to the above, but I'm hoping paint might be allright.
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Aug 21, 2013 01:54
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Thanks for the feedback! I don't bother with mask for quick stuff, but I'll be honest and admit that there's just a certain pride to finishing a project and seeing a nice "professional" looking green or blue PCB, so this is all about vanity at this point  Another quick question: How do you CNC guys handle vias? Do you just flood them with solder or do you run small wire in there somehow? I just found that I have access to a CNC and since I have a 1 foot stack of PCB material I picked up from a surplus sale for pennies I thought it would be neat to move prototyping to that instead of sending away to OSH and Seeed. If for no other reason than to save the turnaround time. Seeed did a great job on my PCBs but they took way too long to ship from HK without an extra expedited shipping charge. Also I hate working with etching chemicals :| some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Aug 21, 2013 |
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Aug 21, 2013 12:46
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This is going to be a reeeeeeeal long shot, but does anyone have any firsthand experience with this bad boy: SLO-SYN 430-T (click on img for manual) I'm having a lot of trouble figuring out why my motor isn't doing a thing (like, stepping as expected) while I feel I followed the implementation to the letter. I'd say maybe it's busted, but I've tried three separate drivers and like a dozen different motors.
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Sep 12, 2013 17:20
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Hi guys, really stupid question: What do you call these?  Specifically, the components that I'd need to buy to make these myself? Some sort of crimp connector and connector housing, but I have no idea what to look for on newark.ca. I'm also looking for the male equivalent. Basically I want to make a bunch of breadboard interconnect cables and things I can use harder connectors with, but I don't want to buy them off eBay premade. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Sep 21, 2013 |
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Sep 21, 2013 18:17
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Because I'm not interested in the cables themselves, I just want to connect existing stuff to breadboards. Like I want to wire a motor into a thing and instead of soldering the motor wires to a 1x4 male header I'd like to just crimp male connectors to each wire and go to town.
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Sep 21, 2013 18:26
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Score. Thanks much! Going to find the appropriate Newark parts and go to town
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Sep 21, 2013 18:42
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Thanks for the info guys. I found what I need on eBay and pololu thanks to links and description, but for some reason I can't find these on Newark/Farnell's site. It's like they just straight up don't exist. I'm starting to really dislike Newark's catalogue, and mostly because I'm just never sure what something is called or whatnot. If I didn't have a contract with Newark through work I would probably switch sites I'm just going to pick up a hundred on eBay and not worry about it though. Definitely going to get a crimper, and while I'm at it I'll probably invest in a proper cable stripper. My teeth will thank me.
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Sep 22, 2013 16:01
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Other than you're risking the integrity of the pins by bending them, making them prone to snapping, not really. Related: This is why I always just use IC sockets these days
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Sep 22, 2013 18:28
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I have a Weller EC1201A variable soldering iron and I need to do a bit of drag soldering in the next week. All I have is a super fine conical tip, and I gather that the best tip for drag soldering is a hoof-style with a well for excess solder. I'll be damned if I can find something like this for my iron. Anyone know if there's a great place to look up what soldering irons have what options for tips? This soldering station is kind of old but it works great, is adjustable, and ... was free ... so I'd rather just update the tip rather than shop for a whole new system for one small job. edit: Oh wait nevermind, the weller site itself has a lot of tip options. Obviously I'm incapable of looking for the obvious solution. edit2: Ugh, do any of these look like what I want? I can't tell whether any of these would be suitable: http://www.apexhandtools.com/brands/weller/index.cfm?model_list=1&att_id=WEL007&att1=Tips%20and%20Nozzles&att2=ET%20Series some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Oct 4, 2013 |
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Oct 4, 2013 03:09
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This is good to know because I'm awful at using decoupling caps. Like I literally don't use them. But I will start now
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Oct 4, 2013 20:54
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 14:00 |
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Has there been any success using old iPhone screens in DIY projects? Last I checked there was a distinct lack of data on the interface, etc. Wondering if that's changed recently or not. I've got a dead 3G that I'd like to pick apart.
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Oct 27, 2013 20:42
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