|
I was wondering if you guys could point me in the direction I need. I play sousaphone and would like to attach LEDs to go around the circumference of the bell as well as inside it. What would be the best way to go about doing that? I would like to be able to program the flashing pattern. I was looking at Arduino boards, but I don't know enough about electronics to figure out if they would do the job. The Lily pad model looked like it might work, but I don't know if it can run a lot of lights. The smaller the power unit and board, the better, since I will be dancing and jumping around.
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2010 22:47
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 29, 2024 08:04 |
|
|
insta posted:For this, a (555 + 4017) + 10 transistors + 10 resistors + 30 LEDs will do what you want. It should be about $6 or so from Mouser/Digikey/Jameco/whatever. It will run for a week or so on a set of D-cell batteries. How many lights can I run max? 30 seems small for my plans. I am thinking 100+ Also, do the LEDs have to be connected to a board, or can I string them so they can be hung or taped or whatnot. Brekelefuw fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Jul 19, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2010 23:03
|
|
|
insta posted:Max lights is limited by the transistors you choose. You might want to switch to some power FETs like a BUZ101 or something. Are you wanting ultrabrights or just normal LEDs? That determines power requirements. I'll go into more explanation later after I have initial requirements from you. I don't think ultrabrights are necessary, since the concerts take place in the dark, or with smoke machines etc. At long as they are visible it should be fine. For programmability, I would like to have them flash in a pattern or two. The theme for one of the bands is New Orleans, and I wanted blue and white swirls like a hurricane to spin around the bell like a toilet flushes (bad explanation?) Or I would like to put a solid logo up for the other band. Sound reactivity would be good as well once I learn how to do the initial idea. I guess I would need a controller to tell which pattern to go to etc.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 20, 2010 03:54
|
|
The LEDs can be strung around as you desire if they're insulated.
|
I am putting together a mic preamp from a sparkfun circuit board, and the guy in the electronics shop where I got my components sold me 220 mOhm resistors (Red Red violet Red) instead of 220k Ohm resistors (Red Red Yellow Gold) I take it that these aren't interchangeable? http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8872 this is the board.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2012 01:09
|
|
|
Sorry, I know nothing about this stuff. I am just learning as I go, and if I run in to more troubles I will talk to the two electronics guys I work with after the weekend. I guess I will stop putting this thing together until I can get the new resistor then. I do have soldering experience at least. I build a PAIA max Theremin kit about 8 years ago.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2012 01:44
|
|
|
I am building this :http://tangentsoft.net/audio/cmoy-tutorial/misc/cmoy-tangent-sch.pdf And I am having a problem with the pot. The guide said I could use either a 10k or 100k pot. I bought a B100k pot, and no matter how I wire the pot the volume starts really soft, then I turn it with no change in volume until it is at about 3/4 and then the volume explodes to ear piercing levels. Then when I turn it down a bit it works like a normal volume pot should then goes back to being super quiet. I thought maybe I wired the pot wrong, and read that switching the two outside leads should fix it, but it didn't help. I also tried swapping the two leads that aren't the ground and it just made it not work at all. I was really careful assembling the circuit board and don't think there are any bad solders or short circuits. The only thing I changed from the schematic is that I am not using a Burr-Brown OPA2132 op-amp, I am using the more common TL072CP. http://tangentsoft.net/audio/cmoy-tutorial/ this is the entire guide.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2012 15:30
|
|
|
This was the second pot I tried. I actually built the amp twice to see if I made a mistake in the wiring, and I bought a new pot and still had the same problem. Unfortunately I am having trouble finding a dual ganged pot in most of the electronics shops I can drive to, so I don't have many options to test. Apparently a pot marked A in the model number is analogue, and a pot marked B is linear, or something like that. The B100k is a B style pot that has a 100k rating I believe.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2012 17:47
|
|
|
I understand about 10% of what you guys are talking about. I am very new to this ( I haven't even got a multimeter yet.) I used an IC socket because it suggested it in the parts, and the only compatible IC I could find was the tl072. When my work does another electronics order, I will order the Burr-Brown 2132 that the guide calls for. As far as the caps go, I have them oriented correctly. I triple checked anything that needed to be a certain direction, and googled anything I wasn't sure of. I used a google tutorial to hook up the lines of the pot since the instructions are extremely vague in a few spots (doesn't say that you need 2 9v batteries, but the schematic shows it running two 9v batteries at 18v and splitting it) Maybe the electronics guys at my work will be able to take a better look at it, but I have already been driving them crazy with questions. On a side note, this project is part of something I need made am working on, and would be willing to pay to get a circuit designed for me. I need an amp that takes a Mic line in (for an electret or Piezo or similar) and outputs it for headphones. It should be compact, run on a single 9v, have a volume pot, and also an LED to show that it is on. The LED/power switch/volume could be all in one part to save space if a part was available. I would pay for the circuit design, a parts list, and some sort of assembly instructions, since I am not great at reading schematics. PM me if you're interested.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2012 02:59
|
|
|
Because it doesn't have the right stuff to boost a mic signal from what I understand (and I don't have the knowhow to add it to what already exists,) and I am not going to take someone's free design and sell it as a product. That isn't a very nice thing to do.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2012 04:09
|
|
|
I am still testing which mic will work best. Probably an electret, but I am not at the stage yet to see if it picks up too much ambient noise around the thing I will actually be micing.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2012 11:19
|
|
|
So I put a 100k resistor on each channel's line in after the pot, and it helped the rapid volume change a bit, but it still has a large jump. I also decided to double check the positioning of the opamp, and when I turned the amp on the opamo chip exploded in to 4 pieces that shot off the board like bullets. I guess I will have to discontinue testing until I can find another opamp.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2012 03:00
|
|
|
I want to build a little circuit that allows me to lower the gain on a microphones level. Ideally it would be a box with an input jack and an output jack that I can put between the mic/preamp and the guitar pedals they are hooked to. Or, between each pedal as needed to do gain staging. I think what I need is to hook the input jack to a potentiometer with some resistors, and feed that to the output jack. Can anyone give me an idea of the circuit if it is like what I described above? I have done electronics stuff before, but don't know enough to know how to design my own circuit beyond random trial and error.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2016 13:58
|
|
|
I drew up my very first wiring diagram. I THINK it shows what I have wired up. Let me explain. I want to run an elecret mic through two circuits, toggled by an SPDT switch. The first circuit is just the electret running through the trim pot and straight to a mono 1/8 jack. This is a dirty fuzz signal when used on my trumpet. The second circuit will be a gain attenuated signal to hopefully get a clean sound and runs out to the same mono 1/8 jack. What I know is that I need to wire a resistor in series on one side, and parallel on the other, with a ratio of 2:1. The electronics guy at work suggested I start out with 10k and 22k. What I don't know is how to properly wire up the resistor in parallel. I get series. Series is depicted in the schematic below. I don't know where to add the other resistor that would be parallel on the 2nd circuit.  R1 in the image is the trim pot, and R2 would be where the gain attenuation would happen.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2016 03:22
|
|
|
Ah OK. Makes sense. In real life the trim pot is hooked up correctly. I have already assembled the first half of the circuit and tested it, which is how I found out it was a dirty fuzz sound.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2016 11:34
|
|
|
I want to make a button that turns on an LED, or small array of LEDs when your finger is on it, but the button has to be something that can be triggered by just placing my finger on a piece of brass/copper/nickel silver or some sort of clear plastic. My idea is to make a set of finger buttons that light up when the fingers are on them, but I don't know exactly what kind of technology I am looking at to make them. I figure I need some sort of sensing trigger, a power source, and a tiny LED or group of LEDs. All of these parts need to be as small as possible, as I would be dealing with an area around the size of a Nickel and slightly thicker. Is this possible?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2016 21:50
|
|
|
I need to splice an aquarium air pump power cable and put a case mount on/off switch on it. I would prefer a nice looking one. Not a light switch. Is there anything I need to know so I don't release the magic pixies and kill myself?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2016 01:43
|
|
|
This is not going to be used with water. I am building a machine that tests for leaks, and uses an aquarium pump to generate air pressure to find the leaks. The pump is a pump rated for 10 gallon tanks. Very small. I want a case mount switch, because I am building a case for the machine and would prefer to leave it plugged in all the time, and just have to switch the machine on from the case rather than from the power cable. Here is the machine I am making. http://musicmedic.com/products/repair-tools/leak-detection/musicmedic-com-leak-tester.html Brekelefuw fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Nov 2, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2016 14:17
|
|
|
Thanks guys, I'll grab a spst switch. The pump will be hooked to a flow regulator, a fluid gage, and a magnahelic gauge, which is what gives me the reading. Soap and water are great for finding out where the leak is after you know there is a leak. You don't need much of a pump to do the job. If I need to get a bigger one, that's fine, but the pressure is extremely low for these kinds of machines. You can hardly feel the air coming out of the tube when it's running.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2016 21:09
|
|
|
I am etching brass/bronze/nickel silver using a 30V 10A adjustable DC power supply but I can't seem to get the amps anywhere near what people talk about using when they etch. When I etch nickel silver, I etch at 15-20V and I get about .100-.200A. When I etch brass or bronze at the same voltage I get roughly .040A and then it quickly drops to 0 and stops etching. I can't for the life of my figure out why this happens, or how to get the amperage higher. I have the knobs for the power supply on full amperage. I am using salt water with hydrogen peroxide as the electrolyte which is what most people use. I connect the positive lead to the workpiece, and the negative one to the handpiece that has an electrolyte soaked rag on it, the same way they do with professional marking machines. Typically in tutorials, people talk about using anywhere from 2-24v with a 10A battery/car charger/power supply. PS. With 15-24V at lets say 1A, will I die?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 4, 2017 23:11
|
|
|
The handpiece is directly on the workpiece, which is covered with a vinyl stencil as a resist to get the pattern I want. My handpiece is more fancy than a q-tip, because when I used a q-tip, the current would erode the alligator clips because the salt water touched them directly. Now I have it so the alligator clip is far away from the actual liquid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bV-PItEcLXY This is basically what I am doing, but with a power supply rather than a battery, and with copper alloys rather than steel. Nickel silver works great. I can get a .5mm etch in a few minutes, but the same thing on brass/bronze gets me almost no depth because the amps drop immediately.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 4, 2017 23:33
|
|
|
ante posted:Your connection to the metal is probably high resistance. Try scrubbing it with scotch brite or even just digging the alligator clips real hard. Would the thickness of the metal affect the resistance? The brass I tried to etch was .625" solid rod, and the Bronze was .030" sheet. Both etched poorly. The nickel silver that etches great is .020" sheet.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2017 00:37
|
|
|
Stabby McDamage posted:I don't have any domain knowledget that would help, but this sounds cool and I want to hear how it goes.  Here is my setup for a successful etch on nickel silver. No surface prep needed. The positive lead goes anywhere on the part and the negative is attached to the aluminium handpiece with the salt water soaked cloth on it. I hold it over the vinyl stencil and check every few seconds for depth and quality. More volts is a more aggressive etch and not as nice looking as less volts. The etches I was trying this weekend were just on scrap brass, bronze and nickel silver. The nickel silver is the only metal that has a great looking etch. The rest etch quickly and then the amps go to 0. I think it's forming an oxide layer or something, which is preventing conductivity.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2017 21:45
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:Change up your electrolyte. Put a little bit of acid in there, start with acetic or citric (vinegar/lemon juice) then move up to muriatic. I'm not entirely sure what the peroxide is for; it's typically not considered an ionic electrolyte species. Note that alumimum very very quickly forms an oxide layer. Get a stainless steel scrubby and then wrap your cloth around that. I had read somewhere that adding hydrogen peroxide helps make it more effective because of the extra hydrogen in the water.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 6, 2017 14:35
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 29, 2024 08:04 |
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:"Extra hydrogen in water" means a lower pH, which means an acid. If you want more hydrogens, add acid. The peroxide may act as an oxidizing (or reducing?!) agent for metal ions, but that's probably not important for etching. Just did some reading. The hydrogen peroxide helps oxidation of copper molecules which allows the creation of copper chloride, which is the starter for making a copper etchant. I guess I will remove that and try adding acetic acid or maybe something stronger. I do have a jug of ferric chloride, but I want to try to stay as clean as possible.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2017 00:07
|
|