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Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

taqueso posted:

Saw this today: http://www.eetimes.com/electronics-...grammable-logic

Nick Martin (Altium CEO and founder) was apparently forced out by the board.

Reasons why Dave Jones left.....

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Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
I did a silly stupid project, and I thought I'd share it.

http://realtinker.blogspot.com/2013/10/a-diy-led-light-bulb-courtesy-of.html

It's a flat PCB that will screw into a light socket. It's got a 48 LED string, powered by a rectifier bridge and a big stinking cap.

I was rude. Here's a picture if you don't wanna click the link.

Nerobro fucked around with this message at 11:20 on Oct 1, 2013

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

helno posted:

Yeah but the idea is to have a common display board that simply takes and analog voltage and does its thing. I don't want to have to change the code or board to support different inputs.

By doing this you can adjust the display with just a zero and span pot that can be adjusted easily in flight without the need to gently caress around with laptops and what not.

I just want to use a vane type probe rather than differential pressure because my plane is to slow to use differential pressure.

So... The easy way, if you were to ask me, would be to do it the way Belite is doing it, and use a hall effect sensor on your vane. Hall effect sensors can give a linear output in volts that the arduino should be able to handle fairly well. The accuracy of the mount will be paramount though.

There are flexible resistors on adafruit, that could be used. I don't know about how they drift with temperature though. since there's no sliding component, I think the wear issue would be less likely to be a problem. You'd get some electrical noise from vibration though...

I'd also look into using a LED, a tapered aperture, and a photo-resistor. That would be fairly easy to calibrate, but somewhat less compact than the hall sensor.

The final option I can think of, is to use a quadrature printed bit of plastic, and two or three led gates to determine the position of your AOA vane.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
Servos are.. uh.. cheap. They don't have a long service life when continuously in use. I expect they're wearing out.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

SoundMonkey posted:

Qi chargers are the most horribly inefficient power-wasting charging technology known to civilized man.

That said, yes, they are pretty cool.

Lessons on how to build the worst transformer on earth: Any inductive charging system.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

SybilVimes posted:

PIC10s are cheaper than 555s here, granted you only get 4-6 GP lines (4 on the 6pin SOT23 versions) and a fixed 1MHz clock, but that's still a step up from a basic 555, and no need for any external components either.

That's a mind bending fact. One of quantity of the PIC10F are 0.50 from digikey, and 0.35 in quantity. For the SOT-23-6 Package. DIP-8 is as cheap as $0.47.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

SoundMonkey posted:

The Learning Electronics Megathread: And That's Why Your 555 Caught Fire

That makes more sense.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

asdf32 posted:

They have built in thermal protection...

Weren't we talking 400,000 volt power supplies a page ago....

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Stabby McDamage posted:

Is there such a thing as a simple way to use a 12V lead acid battery in conjunction with external 12V power?

Basically, I want an ultra low power 12V PC to work like a laptop -- charge+run when plugged in, drain+run when unplugged. I don't expect the PC to know if it's plugged in or not.

Is this as simple as running it off the battery and running a charger to the battery at the same time, or is more trickery needed?

It can be that simple. It won't be nice to the power supplies. People will get all twisted in a bunch over deep cycle.. but if it's a large battery, and you never discharge it far, ti'll work fine.

I also understand that 12v pc power supplies often don't do much power filtering on the 12v line, that could be a big problem for you.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

asdf32 posted:

Deep cycles will last several times longer in an application where they are actually deep cycled. No lead acid batteries like deep discharge (more than ~30% discharge) and hate sitting there for long. But deep cycle batteries stand up to it much much better.

Even under the label "deep cycle" there are still large differences. Batteries for golf karts and floor sweepers are typically superior to other "deep cycle" batteries.

Totally correct on all points. The only tricky bit is good deep cycle batteries are two to four times the price of a car battery. :-)

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Jamsta posted:

Awesome, thanks for the in-depth reply.

I will probably buy an ESC, but I've noticed the ones which can delivery 300w are $150+. (e: though this one is rated 200a)

I guess I can use a cheaper one, and it'll deliver less torque or rpm at a reduced current?

The controller project I'll add to my list of things to try, though as you say if it's heavily timing dependent my high-level coding in Arduino may not cut the mustard.

Arduinos aren't anywhere near fast enough to drive a high speed AC motor. You can do it with a PIC, or AVR, just not with the Arduino overhead. That said, the chips to drive FETs that will drive a high speed brushless motor are ~very~ cheap. You can find motor driver chips at digikey.. if you want to try something interesting.

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Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

insta posted:

Tangentally related to electrochat ... can anybody cite some examples of off-the-shelf products (probably cheap Chinese things) that're powered with a switch-mode supply ... but rather than do it "properly" they just dumped the SMPS inside the enclosure and ran leads to the prongs. I'm thinking like perhaps a small electronics device that runs off of 5v that just has a 5v phone charger inside of it powering the works. I've seen it before, but I don't remember where.

Doing it cheaply, means doing it "properly." Using the jelly bean drop in bits are actually rather expensive.

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