|
FogHelmut posted:I'm not in the market for tires, but I'm reading in various places that some people love Michelin Defender LTX for off road in everything but mud? I thought they were a CUV highway tire? My wife's Ford Edge came with them standard, and they've been great in all weather road use, but never took that off road. I don't think there's any AT that does well in mud, but I think my biggest concern would be durability on rocks taking chunks out and stuff like that. n.b It's easy to miss the distinction between the LTX AT (which is borderline a truck 'highway' tire) and the LTX M/S (which like you say is more or less a regular car all-season tire turned up to 11, a generic low-end AT tire and a generic low-end winter tire stuck in a blender, tons of siping, presumably this is what you'd get on an Edge) We have the former on a couple of the mine trucks due to them being standard on a lot of new HD pickups - I found them to be downright dangerous on ice (talking half as much again to twice the stopping distance vs even more 'standard' ATs), a very poor snow tire and a very poor mud tire, but particularly quiet and tolerant of dry dirt roads with a lot less visible wear after a summer than we'd usually see. For somewhere that doesn't get too much water falling from the sky (you're in Cali, right?) and assuming you don't go looking for trouble, they're probably a lot more in tune with the actual, rather than perceived, needs of people buying AT tires than most options. Expensive things to buy, though, at least for Canada. The M/S AFAIK they've been making almost unchanged for at least 30 years - I'm pretty sure I remember seeing new LR Discoveries etc rolling around on essentially the same thing in the mid 90s. Peak "don't fix what isn't broken" for tires, really, they make a winter version which is visually completely identical so that tells you something. Just a different compound in that case, I'd assume. Yeah you wouldn't want to go crawling around any rock gardens, but I can't imagine they'd be in any way a problem for just rolling up to a campsite or the odd fire road or whatever Joe McNormal spends $2000 on the latest and greatest ~offroad~ gear to do. People overanalyze these things a lot of the time. If you want an AT that can do mud, the GY Duratrac (though, again kinda borderline on being an AT tire, just to the other extreme) is still probably the best at that, they're probably on about 60-70% of anything 4wd that leaves pavement up here for being about the only thing both widely available and actually good at all three weather states (forest fire, hoth, and the 4-8 week Russian-style mud season between them), usually you just get to pick two at most with most of the 'modern' ATs (Falken, Toyo, BFG, General etc) being fine in the summer, a bit worse on ice, maybe a bit better in small amounts of snow, a bit worse for deeper/wetter snow, somewhere between notably worse and really bad for seriously muddy stuff, but quieter and better suited to something you're actually just going to drive to work most of the time. Where the Duratrac falls over is they're a soft rubber (so chip easily, which matters in warmer/drier places; the fact that they don't harden up so much when it's seriously cold is hugely important up here where it can be -30c or even less for weeks at a time but completely irrelevant in a lot of the US) and don't like low pressures - you'll see a lot of complaining about sidewall strength. This matters if you're a 'seriously recreational' user who is putting the effort in to play with tire air pressures, and essentially not at all if you're e.g commercial/industrial (because noone has the time or inclination or tools to gently caress around with that, you just drive whatever the thing is and then get it fixed if it breaks), or if you just don't bother. We destroy probably 10 of them per year and wear out about 20-30 at work (across maybe 10 vehicles), at 40psi on everything since most of them go 35km back to town every day, and they last to the point of being mashed into a sort of sponge texture by the mine roads (which are either just mud or, if it's all been graded off, vaguely crushed waste rock) with almost all punctures being on really worn out old ones.
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2023 06:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 15:51 |
|
|
I was sick yesterday so I didn't go to work, but I also didn't want to be cooped up in the house either. I drove up into the Cascades for some fresh air, and also to get my fresh detail job dirty.   For lunch, the latest Chinese advancements in self-heating meal technology. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2023 04:39
|
|
|
We took the Bronco out for its first real, but short, drive after the suspension work. Wanted to get a bit more rowdy and go up to the top of the nearby peak to an abandoned lookout, but there was more snow than expected and we didn’t have a ton of spare time.    
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2023 05:12
|
|
|
I need to get some dorgs. Can't wait until my son is old enough to hang out through a few hours' round trip car ride.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2023 05:17
|
|
|
Safety Dance posted:I need to get some dorgs. Can't wait until my son is old enough to hang out through a few hours' round trip car ride. We need to get a spare tire carrier to make space inside for the dogs to be in back with the rear seats up for the kids, because right now we definitely cannot do both 
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2023 05:59
|
|
|
Broncowns. Also, doggowns.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2023 13:25
|
|
|
Question about using lockers again. If I'm trying to climb a hill of loose sand and gravel should I have one or both axles locked? The right answer is probably "do whichever one allows you to get up the hill", but I'm more concerned with sliding back. Its my understanding that if all four start spinning, I'd likely start sliding back whereas if I only have the rear locked and three of four start to spin, then the non spinning wheel will help prevent sliding back. True? False? I guess I could ask if it'd be the same for an icy/snowy hill too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2023 02:22
|
|
|
I'd lock them all in if you can, if three wheels spinning isn't going to get you up a sandy hill then one unpowered front wheel isn't going to help stop you sliding back down it, and it's better to avoid having one front wheel spinning like buggery then suddenly getting a bit of grip and shock loading everything. Never driven in snow etc so nfi but I don't see how it would be super different.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2023 03:06
|
|
|
Both locked if you're really on a loose surface, but the front locker tends to cause directional control issues with grabbing and not being able to get back from full-lock steering. Definitely don't run a front locker going downhill on a loose surface.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2023 03:21
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:Both locked if you're really on a loose surface, but the front locker tends to cause directional control issues with grabbing and not being able to get back from full-lock steering. Definitely don't run a front locker going downhill on a loose surface. Does the advice differ for a center locker? I have a Pajero iO with a selectable center locking diff. I've never been anywhere where the center lock was necessary to get through and I couldn't get through with 4wd open diff so I don't really know how to use it at the limits.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2023 04:00
|
|
|
I'd leave it locked, you have a better change of staving off one wheel going slack and losing steering or sliding sideways.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2023 05:01
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuzGxAKOnoY This video is pretty good. I have an automatic front locker in my samurai and open rear and it does pretty drat great. It will still ratchet around turns if it's unloaded, which helps with steering. I find most locker related steering issues occur when you are also fighting a locked rear that is plowing you straight ahead. My other rig has a Detroit rear and ox front and it is a bear to steer when double locked. If I was concerned about a hill and had the option to lock both ends, I would lock them both. I don't think having one tire doing nothing will prevent you from sliding back.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2023 00:55
|
|
|
Locking the centre diff is fine on sand or loose surfaces, the front and rear diffs will still work to let both wheels on an axle rotate at different speeds. Loads of 4wds don't have centre diffs at all, which is the same as having it locked, and work fine.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2023 00:56
|
|
|
ili posted:Locking the centre diff is fine on sand or loose surfaces, the front and rear diffs will still work to let both wheels on an axle rotate at different speeds. Loads of 4wds don't have centre diffs at all, which is the same as having it locked, and work fine. How do those vehicles without a centre diff make turns on pavement? My user manual says it will damage the transmission from binding if I drive on pavement with the centre locked.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2023 01:36
|
|
|
They don't. Vehicles without a center diff never engage 4WD without already being on a loose surface.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2023 01:41
|
|
|
Yeah, the "centre diff" in a 4wd whip is a transfer case. You're not really supposed to have the transfer case (4wd) engaged on dry pavement. A centre diff is just that, a differential, which allows poo poo to move at different speeds without breaking. When you lock the centre diff, its like locking one of your axles.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2023 01:51
|
|
|
I'd only lock up if I felt the hill/terrain justified 4lo, and if I locked the rear I'd lock the front. Admittedly I've never had to bounce a tire while rock crawling or anything like that. Also I unlocked everything once I was clear.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2023 05:34
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:Question about using lockers again. Snow/ice I'll lock all 4, but usually I get by with locking rears. There were probably 3-4 situations for me in the past 15 years I needed front lockers to do an obstacle and one was in Moab, one in John Bull near Big Bear, CA and the last was a trail out in New Mexico [Near Durango CO/Farmington New Mexico]. As for snow ice slippage, I'll throw chains on the wheels if it's lots of deep snow. Although the times that I did up in Big Bear when there was ice everywhere, I'd throw it on the front if I only have one set.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2023 20:49
|
|
|
I figured I'd put this here as it might get more attention from people familiar with this stuff. 2021 Tacoma, ARB air lockers front and rear. Problem occurred while cold, after sitting all day. Every so often I'll engage the 4wd in both low and high and go forward and back. Usually in the parking lot at work because its big enough and out of the way. If I did it in a walmart parking lot people would probably look at me like I'm some kind of weirdo, but then again its walmart so maybe not. Every now and then I'll also engage the compressor and lockers and do the same. I turned on the compressor, engaged the rear, and the compressor came on again***. That seems to be normal with my setup as the line going to the back is longer so the pressure would drop more. I then engaged the front and no compressor. Also normal. But when I went to move forward, the compressor engaged again for a few seconds. I stopped and waited. Moved forward again and the compressor engaged again. I stopped and waited for a bit and the compressor kicked on again. I turned the switches to off and moved a bit, then back on and same thing. Turning on the rear caused the compressor to come on and then turning on the front, no compressor(both normal as mentioned). I moved a bit and the compressor came on again for a few seconds. Same as before I stopped, this time for a minute or two and the compressor came on more than once, just for a few seconds. ***Whenever I turn on the compressor unless I'm airing up a tire, it only comes on for "several" (5-7?) seconds at the most. I assume just enough to let the cut off switch know that its got enough pressure. Sounds like an air leak and since it only happens when I turn the front on, its probably in the front section somewhere. COINCIDENTALLY, when I came out to go to work this morning, I noticed something had dripped from the front end on the driver's side. For those of you from down under, I'm in Canada so my driver side is your passenger side. When I got to work I pulled it in to the shop and looked underneath there was some oil on the control arm. I *thought* it was engine oil, but on giving it further thought it seems like it was a bit thick for engine oil and probably gear oil from the diff. Looking under the hood I found what looked like an oil leak from around the valve cover but nowhere obvious. I've heard that the front differential vent on Tacomas comes up under the hood to the engine compartment *somewhere* but not sure where. My suspicion is that some oil got blown up the vent tube in to the engine compartment and then dripped down. If thats the case, then this would mean theres a seal leaking inside the front diff/locker somewhere. But the gears inside there aren't completely submerged in oil right? How the poo poo would it blow oil up the tube if they're not completely submerged? I tried to replicate the problem today after work but couldn't. I did not engage 4wd today when I tried it but as is my understanding the axles, diff and front driveshaft all turn even in 2wd just that the driveshaft is not engaged inside the transfer case. So I feel like that might not make a difference.
|
|
#
?
Mar 19, 2024 23:33
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:I figured I'd put this here as it might get more attention from people familiar with this stuff. We don't have Tacomas here but my understanding from looking at some stuff online previously is the Tacoma also has the active disconnecting differential like the Hilux etc. That has a sleeve which can connect or disconnect the outer side of one of your front axles from the diff, so in 2wd mode when you're moving one wheel will be free to spin independently and the other is connected to the diff. Opinions vary on whether the front driveshaft also disconnects from the transfer case, the best way to tell would be to get the front of your ute up on jackstands with both front wheels off the ground, handbrake on and in p if auto or in gear if manual, engine off, and try to spin the front driveshaft by hand. Pretty sure last time I did the front driveshaft grease fittings on my old Hilux it disconnected at the transfer case too but that was many a long year ago. If the front driveshaft spins freely then it and the diff ring gear won't spin when driving in 2wd, if it won't turn freely then the driveshaft and diff should turn when driving. Did you fit the air lockers or have arb or a shop fit them? The arb design is known to pressurise the diff if an o ring or anything inside the diff housing fails or they're not installed correctly, leaking and possibly pushing oil out the breather if you're lucky or potentially out of the axle seals if the breather is blocked.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2024 01:51
|
|
|
Thanks for the info, if I have a chance I'll try that this weekend. I also have a stethoscope so I'll try and listen for air leaks while I'm in there. They were installed by a shop with a good reputation for doing offroad type stuff. Since the oil seems to be coming from up top in the engine compartment its probably a good bet that it came from the breather you think? As I mentioned, apparently the factory breather on the front is extended up in to the engine compartment but I've never seen anyone mention about where in there it is, or what side of the engine, but it seems like maybe the driver side if thats where the oil actually came from.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2024 02:08
|
|
|
Dr google reckons the front diff breather is on the right side of the engine bay yeah and from everything you've described so far it sounds like it's an airlocker leaking and pushing diff oil out the breather. But obv bear in mind I'm just some yahoo on the other side of the world whose done some 4wding and put a spanner on some fourbies including a fair few toyotas but never even opened the bonnet of a Tacoma and I'm not sure what parts they share with our Hiluxes. Definitely worth checking, because if your locker is leaking air into the diff it's something to fix up before it leads to a much bigger problem. If the shop who did the install are a pain to deal with or want a kidney to look at it for you there's a ton of info about these issues online as it's not a terribly uncommon problem with the ARB ones.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2024 04:10
|
|
|
I do recall reading about a batch of ARB seals being poo poo in recent years, so what you are experiencing could definitely be related. I would call up the shop and see if they can take a look at it and see if they can narrow it down. If they are familiar with putting them in, they will likely be familiar with cases like yours.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2024 21:04
|
|
|
Already done. Probably going to bring it there in a couple weeks. I've been in touch with ARB about it as well about warranty etc...
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2024 21:34
|
|
|
I need to replace my KO2s now that the winters are coming off for the season. I liked how 275/70 R17 looked (just one bump up from 265 stock for the 4Runner). But all the 275s in Wildpeaks and Toyos and stuff are +10lb E rated monsters, which I really can't justify for my light duty usage. And I can't fit 285s without a lift. Woe is me, I may just have to downsize back down to stock size.  Tempted by the Wildpeak AT4W.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2024 03:50
|
|
|
I'm still waiting for the KO3's to come out in 37" size... I'm running KM2's currently and they are one of the nicest mud terrain tires I've run [good god the Goodyear MT/R in 37-40" size sounds like a drat WW2 bomber driving around with the tire noise]... but for slick rock, desert and snow I'd rather the KO series. Apparently, BFG is making KO3's for a few OEM applications but they were supposed to be in wide release a year ago.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2024 09:35
|
|
|
I found kevlar MT/Rs to have soft squishy sidewalls. Too soft. Too squishy. KM2s will chunk in the dez after a year or two, which is bullshit when they're a couple thousand for a set. They're excellent tires otherwise. I got mild chunking with the Toyo open countries in year three/four.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2024 17:24
|
|
|
Something Awful Forums user Kastivich and I went up into Capitol State Forest near Olympia, Washington yesterday.  I forgot to take photos for the most part, but here's one.  He's got a very lovely lifted and lockered Land Cruiser that's more capable than my Cayenne (formerly his Cayenne). If you look at the map, there's a little spur where we investigated a logging track and had to turn around.  That's because whoever cut the track blocked it off where it rejoins the forest road, but not the other end. We got to the bottom of this steep and narrow descent and couldn't go forward. His land cruiser had no problems making a three point turn, but my cayenne just couldn't get enough grip. I wound up having to reverse up this mess until I found a flatter section.  Anyway, fun times were had by all, successful morning, nobody died.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2024 19:44
|
|
|
It was great getting out exploring. Got a few pics of the long backing up.  
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2024 20:09
|
|
|
I wanna go next time. I was out at The Ridge Motorsports Park in Shelton the last 3 days as a staff mechanic for team 329/Drive Deviant instead though. So like, all of 20 miles away as the crow flies 
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2024 04:33
|
|
|
Yeah, I haven't looked at my calendar yet to see when I might be free next (the joys of parenthood), but I'll add you to the email chain.
|
|
#
?
Apr 23, 2024 05:42
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:I figured I'd put this here as it might get more attention from people familiar with this stuff. Update to this. I didn't take it to the shop as I couldn't replicate the problem so there would have been no point to have them gently caress with it if the problem doesn't happen anymore. Except it happened again on Saturday or Sunday (I forget which day). Same circumstances, except that after the compressor cycling a few times, it ended up staying on continuously until I shut it off. In that time I did get the hood popped and see aerated oil coming out the diff breather under the hood. I'm doing up an email to the shop right now to see what they think. I'm still not sure what to do except that as I discussed with them on the phone a few weeks ago if its intermittent its not going to be easy to figure out. I'm going to poke around underneath this weekend if I can find the time. I have to do the shocks and springs at all four corners on my Corolla Saturday so it'll probably have to wait until Sunday, but I want to take a look for anything obvious and maybe do some listening with an engine stethoscope. THeres really only a few parts it could be. Also was in contact with ARB usa about warranty and they never officially told me to gently caress off re: reimbursement for labour, though I'm hoping its something simple and doesn't require (it probably will, gently caress) removal and disassembly of the front diff.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2024 17:45
|
|
|
Yeah that sounds like the seals at the connection to the diff carrier unfortunately and unless you can pop the cover and drop the carrier out without pulling the whole ifs assembly, that's going to be a very involved repair. Sucks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2024 17:56
|
|
|
kastein posted:Yeah that sounds like the seals at the connection to the diff carrier unfortunately and unless you can pop the cover and drop the carrier out without pulling the whole ifs assembly, that's going to be a very involved repair. Sucks. So you're thinking inside the diff, and not at the bulkhead fitting? Makes sense as unless I'm wrong, the bulkhead fitting goes in to the housing above the oil level, so if it was leaking pressure to the inside of the housing from there then it would probably just come out the breather as air (unless the breather was clogged in which case it would start blowing out other seals) and not as aerated oil. Correct? Or not correct?
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2024 19:04
|
|
|
That's my thinking as well, the leak must be below fluid level to be blowing enough bubbles to get them up the breather. Who knows for sure till you open it up though.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2024 19:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 15:51 |
|
|
Just realized it's been 10 years since I posted. Sigh, elderly. Anyway, picked this up earlier this year. Came with a sbc 305 in it with a wiped cam lobe and some piss pour exhaust work. Put in a mild cam, new lifters, various other bolt ons and true duals. Currently building a 350 for it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2024 17:12
|
|
