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A couple weeks ago I put down a deposit on a 2021 Tacoma. Estimates it will be in my possession sometime between July this year and 2027. I want to take it off the beaten path, but I don't have any plans on getting too crazy. Just getting to some out of the way places for hunting, fishing and camping. Whats some basic, recommended recovery gear besides the obvious shackles, straps and so on? A winch that I'll probably use once every 10 years is in the works, but its not going to be an immediate thing. Is there a hand winch thats not awful? Or should I just go with an electric when I get it and pray I don't get stuck before then? Whats the opinion on tire chains for anything besides winter/ice? I don't expect to be driving through fields. Mostly old dirt and logging roads that may or may not have been actively maintained since the middle of last century.
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Apr 17, 2021 15:52
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Do they work well on exposed rock that may be wet or somewhat slippery? I'm not planning on rock crawling, but at least a couple "roads" in some areas I plan on going have places where the bedrock is exposed. Granite and gneiss if that makes a diff.
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Apr 17, 2021 17:37
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FogHelmut posted:You're not going to slide off of rocks unless you have horrible tires or you're climbing some absurd incline. Thanks for the recommendations. Basics: Tires will be stock for as long as they last, I already carry a string/tire plug kit in my corolla, *mental note to get one for the new ride. Also have a $12.99 "compressor". Considering looking at a cordless Milwaukee inflator. Optional: I'll probably still get a winch in the near, but not immediate future. A few of these "roads" have some mud pits where I've seen people get stuck, so I'd like to be able to self extract if necessary. I guess that will necessitate straps, shackles etc.. Shovel is an obvious thing that I never thought of. Pointy spade or flat blade? Or does it really matter when you're stuck, you just need a fuckin shovel? Modify: When the stockers wear out, I'll likely get something with a bit more aggressive tread but thats a while yet. I don't even know if this thing will get picked up on this "allocation run" as the dealer calls it. I might be waiting till late summer to pick it up. I like making poo poo myself from metal, and I'm a decent welder, I like the idea of making my own step bars/rock slider thingies, and maybe skid plates too, but the factory ones, while not as good as aftermarket, are probably "good enough" for whatever I plan on doing. Winch mount, beyond my skills. Also I FUCKIN HATE light bars.
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Apr 17, 2021 19:05
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TotalLossBrain posted:After about one year of wheeling in the PNW, by far my most used item is my onboard air compressor, air-down and air-up tools. What sort of compressor is it? Is it like just a good quality tire inflator, or a real compressor with a small tank?
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Apr 18, 2021 00:08
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What the poo poo are ditch lights? Is that so you can literally see the ditch, if you're driving down a narrow road/trail, or is it the light equivalent of a ditch kit for whatever the hell you would have a ditch kit for?
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Apr 18, 2021 04:47
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Splinter posted:
I know you're not trying to discourage, you're just being..... realistic. I've been contemplating this quite a bit lately as well as doing a bunch of reading. For a noob to off-roading (with things that have wheels) the U.S. offroad site has some useful info on various things that I didn't know or hadn't thought of, so I've been reading, looking at options and so on. I'd probably go with a hidden mount if I did, as I don't want to add too much weight to the front. It wasn't all that self evident until I did some reading that even 150 pounds (mount + winch + cable + Misc poo poo) is kind heavy to be hanging off the front of the vehicle, but it makes sense especially as, like you said, its far ahead of the axle. Performance in a crash is definitely something I've thought about as it seems most hidden mounts require removal of the crash bar. I don't know how much that would effect minor vs major collisions. Maybe losing the crash bar means that in a minor collision, my bumper cover would get more hosed up, than normal, but in a major, it wouldn't matter because that poo poo's getting replaced anyway for example.... And also I really really really like factory warranties. How would removing some poo poo at the front affect my warranty WRT to airbags, and/or collision avoidance tech that might be on this thing. Yeah, I've head about using a hi-lift to pull a stuck ride out of the mud. IIRC, some people refer to that as the jawbreaker. There is one goon that offroads his Sienna minivan and he's got some sort of hand winch that has been used with success. At least something like that would be cheaper and I could use it to winch from the front or the back. Which is something I've always wondered about. I guess its situation dependant, but how the hell do you (or don't you) winch yourself out the way you came if your winch is permanently mounted to the front? I suppose thats a good excuse for a receiver tray mounted winch, just need a receiver on the front.
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Apr 18, 2021 22:40
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MomJeans420 posted:I'm by no means an expert but the only fancy thing on the GX I can think of is KDSS, which doesn't seem to be an issue in terms of reliability. I guess you have air bags on some models too. The main weakness I've seen is the rear diff and that may be only on the 470s but I'm not sure. I asked a similar question a page or two ago, and had some good responses from the goons here about a winch being less of a priority than things like better tires, and various other types of gear that can prevent you from getting stuck in the first place. Ultimately, I'm probably going to go with one of these for the time being: https://www.wyeth-scott.com/
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May 31, 2021 00:51
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Krakkles posted:I believe this is the item that our offroading minivan dude swears by, he seems to know what he's doing. Yeah, thats where I got the link from, his minivan thread.
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May 31, 2021 02:04
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Vampire Panties posted:I'd consider the Hi LIft to be a recovery tool more than anything. I still have the factory bottle jack in case I get a flat on a regular surface. As the one who posted the come long a few posts ago, what its less safe about it vs the highlift for "winching"? Not talking poo poo, legit curious. You can get the come along with some kind of Synthetic rope which is apparently less head-chop-offy should it break compared to steel cable.
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Jun 2, 2021 11:33
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As I've posted in the thread before, I have a Tacoma coming to me sometime between now and July of 2027. I want a set of step bars/running boards/whatever the gently caress, but I don't really want to pay 600-1000+ dollars for them so I'm going to build them myself as steel is cheap and I know how to weld. Most of the ones that I've seen appear to mount on the insides of the rocker panels, and while I'm sure thats sufficient, I'd prefer to mount them to the frame. If I'm not mistaken, people mount rock rails or whatever the poo poo they're called to the frame, so is it safe to assume that if my welding skills are at least half as good as I think they are, I shouldn't have to worry about the frame flexing so much that they fall apart? Is it worth my time to get some thin rubber pads to go between the mounts and the frame to absorb some vibration and allow for a bit of flex, or should I not bother?
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Jun 24, 2021 01:29
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Thanks, I was hoping to bolt them to the frame though, but something to think about. Might need to practice my vertical welding skills.....
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Jun 24, 2021 02:21
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Its finally here. Picked it up yesterday with 4km on it. I tried to get a pic with 69 km on the odometer, but I literally stopped about 6 inches too long and it turned over to 70. I'll have to pay more attention to when it hits 420 km, and then 6969km. I ended up going with the factory TRD lift kit because I like the idea of a warranty on something like that. It adds 2 inches in the front and an inch in the rear. To be honest, this is likely more than I'll ever need, but whats done is done. Did I mention that its slightly awkward for me to get in now? I'm not short (5' 9"ish) but its taller than the two first generation Tundras that we have at work now and I need to get used to getting in to this thing. Some step bars will help with that. Currently putting together some supplies for carrying around in this thing for emergency use. Thus far I have various tire repair implements, some gloves of varying types (leather, cotton, and nitrile), hand sanitizer and wipes. A small knife, blue shop paper towels and some other random poo poo. Still need: First aid kit, jumper cables, tire inflator of some sort and....................... ? Suggestions? This is going to be stuff that I keep in there all the time, and will be separate from any off road recovery gear that I pick up later (straps, shackles etc...). I'm not looking to go crazy with the offroading stuff, I just want something to get me to places that are off the beaten path for fishing, hunting, camping etc. So like logging roads and maybe some bush trails. Today I'm going to poke around underneath and see about building the step bars I mentioned a minute ago. Bling Bling motherfuckers.
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Jul 25, 2021 17:08
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ryanrs posted:Viair compressors are cheap and well made. I have a Viair 77P that I regularly use for airing up while offroading. It is reliable and works well. Amazon didn't even cross my mind for that sort of thing actually. My company has accounts at Fastenal, Brafasco and a few other industrial supply places so I should be able to pick up certain gourmet poo poo (straps, shackles etc) and pay my boss back. Other stuff I'd probably look at legit offroad places. There is a National 4wd shop not too far from here. I'd guess they probably sell decent quality stuff, though don't know about prices. This Viair compressor, does it run off the cigarette lighter in your van or is it battery powered? I just picked up a Milwaukee m12 inflator and don't mind keeping it in the truck somewhere, but its battery powered (came with 4ah battery). I wonder how effective it would be at airing up all four tires if need be. Like if all four were flat, or near flat for some (hypothetical) reason. I guess I could just keep the charger with me too its got a 400w power outlet in the bed. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Jul 25, 2021 |
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Jul 25, 2021 17:58
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Advent Horizon posted:Most B2B places are happy to do ‘on this account, but I’m paying now’. A lot of them don’t care to check your references either because you’re not actually billing anything to the company in question. I know people who walk in to places and say they’re with X company (that they have no affiliation with but that likely has an account) and that usually works.
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Jul 27, 2021 00:14
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What a "good capacity" for recovery poo poo? I realize thats probably a dumb question since you experienced guys will naturally ask things like what, where, how, when and so on. What: '21 Tacoma, probably somewhere in the 4-5000 pound range I'd guess. Where: Probably some mud puddles that were deeper/softer bottomed than anticipated How: because I'm dumb and didn't keep momentum up/ pick the right line etc... When: Most likely summer and fall. Maybe some spring, will try probably try and stay away if there has been a week of solid rain. With what: Probably some sort of hand winch/come along. I know someone recommended against it but I'm still leaning toward the one that minivan goon uses in the 3 ton range. But an electric winch in the 8000 pound capacity range in the future. So having stuff with enough capacity to double up (16,000 lbs) the line if/when I get this winch would be good, so I don't have to buy new poo poo. Most of the stuff I see online has the breaking strength in big bold numbers, but then I find out the working load limit is less than what my theoretical future winch would pull if the line were doubled up. I don't want to just be that guy thats all like "well the breaking strength is more than X so gently caress the working load limit". Same with the shackles, I've seen 3/4" pin shackles with a WLL of 10,000 lbs and on some of them they advertise a 5:1 safety factor. While I';m at it, what are some recommended lengths for straps? I figure if its too short, I'm hosed, whereas too long I can just wrap it around a tree until its short enough. Good idea? Bad? Please help me make good decisions here.
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Jul 30, 2021 02:41
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a bunch of goons posted:Thanks for the replies. I wanted to be certain about the straps and The Kinetic straps are more for if you've got a vehicle to yank on it correct? Like you hook it to stuck, then to unstuck, and unstuck takes a run in the opposite direction? I do have some off roading experience, but its with stuff on tracks so, not exactly the same, but I'd guess a lot of the recovery techniques can cross over. I've yanked my poo poo up muddy, slippery, icy slopes with the onboard winch, jacked it up to cram as much poo poo under the tracks as I can find to get un-buried. Thankfully my jacks are permanently mounted and not half a mile away in my truck or something, and I'm pretty good at (successfully) picking the line thats least likely to get me stuck. Usually if I can walk over it without sinking more than an inch or so in to the mud, I can run my machine across it. I guess picking a line will be different with tires since there is more ground pressure.
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Aug 4, 2021 01:43
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Whats yall's opinions on soft shackles? Are they good? Bad? I've been slowly acquiring some recovery gear (in the hopes I'll never have to use it of course) and I got a bunch of steel shackles, which I'm sure will work fine, but they're heavy as hell too. I thought I'd pick up a few of these to supplement them since they seem to weigh about nothing. I've got a rubbermaid container with some straps of varying lengths and they all weigh nothing. Then with the steel shackles, it suddenly weighs like 5 times more! So uhhh, yeah. Are they worth the money for anything besides weighing less?
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Oct 28, 2021 02:48
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There are some good articles here for various offroading things. For the veterans here it might be old news, but for a noob like me I've found a bunch of them to be pretty informative. E: Better link https://www.4wheelparts.com/the-dirt/how-to-use-and-choose-a-recovery-strap/ wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Nov 2, 2021 |
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Nov 2, 2021 00:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:I thought the problem with using just the pin like that is the risk of bending the pin, since you're now loading it in the center instead of right next to where it's supported by the receiver. One could also put the soft shackle around the bar that the receiver is mounted to. Ferremit posted:One thing with soft shackles is NEVER use them with a sharp edged recovery point unless they have a protective sleeve on them- They'll get cut by the edge of the steel and can fail prematurely- They need rounded edges. Even then they can get damaged. Funny enough, like 5 minutes before I saw your post, I watched a youtube vid about Stock recovery points vs bolt on aftermarket ones like the ones in the pics you posted. Came from Oz too. I never really thought that such a thing would be an issue (the recovery points, not the sharp edges). Definitely good points though. I've made poo poo before out of metal that ropes feed through and I've always made sure to chamfer the edges to make things less slicey for the ropes.
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Nov 2, 2021 22:10
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Anyone deal with Bay Area Metal Fab? I want to get some poo poo for my Tacoma. I've read some reviews and it seems like their products are quality, but just wondering about the company itself. In TFR we've got a thread talking about companies that promote hate/authoritarianism etc.... in the gun and gun related industries. I don't consider myself to be some sort of Dr. Wokenstein, but I don't want to support them if they're in to some racist or anti-LGBTQ type stuff. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Nov 30, 2021 |
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Nov 30, 2021 00:07
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MomJeans420 posted:??????? As is my understanding, on a dry grippy surface, you want as many square inches as possible for traction (like how dragsters have wide rear end tires), but for a slippery surface, you want narrow because then you have more pounds per square inch of surface area to push down/cut through/dig in to the snow. But then again, if you're trying to ride on top of deep snow, then maybe thats not so good. The first one is probably best for rolling on the street, gravel etc, but if you're in deep snow, or somewhere that there is the risk of sinking to your axles and getting really stuck, then you probably want more surface area. Sorry if I didn't help. E: What type of surfaces are you expecting to drive on? Are you just going skiing or some poo poo, or are you planning in driving across a field?
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Dec 28, 2021 20:05
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How worth it is it to get a "snorkel" for my rear differential? I don't plan on mud bogging or anything like that but who the gently caress knows how deep some puddles are on back/logging roads for example? Did I just answer my own question? Should I get one for the front too for the same reasons? '21 Tacoma
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Jan 2, 2022 23:18
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I kinda figured but wanted some other opinions from "internet people that I know" before putting it on my list of things to do. I've looked around a bit and they seem pretty cheap, but I'm tempted to make my own just because gently caress it why not? So I should make or buy one for both diffs?
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Jan 2, 2022 23:30
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Safety Dance posted:Dumb question, but why do diffs need to breathe? Does the air in there just need somewhere to expand when it gets hot? More or less yeah. Heat and cold will suck air in and push it out. ili posted:Dunno about making your own mate. I always just bought the fleabay kits with the right fittings for the car and a pile of hose. But if you can buy the right fittings individually for cheaper or it's more satisfying, why not? Yeah I've seen them for fairly cheap and could probably buy one for iess than making my own, but really they just look like I could use a threaded Barb fitting in the diff, a length of tube and I get another Barb fitting screwed to the factory breather at the other end, placed strategically somewhere that it's high enough to stay away from all but the most catastrophic water levels. I've seen some placed behind tail lights, fuel filter doors etc...
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Jan 3, 2022 02:24
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Dumb question that should probably go in the dumb question thread. The Windshield washer fluid reservoir on my Tacoma has a..... "sleeve" extending from the opening and down in to the tank for an inch or two. It prevents me from filling the reservoir full of washer fluid. What is the purpose of this? My only guess is that if someone is offroad and on something really steep,/sideways or whatever, it prevents fluid from leaking out of the lid if it was filled right to the top since you can't fill it right the gently caress up.. Is that the reason for it? Is it bad that I drilled a tiny hole in it so I can fill the thing up to the brim?
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Feb 6, 2022 22:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:If that's the case that seems silly because my TJ's washer tank literally has a hole in the lid from the factory. I slapped some foil tape on it because I got tired of fluid dribbling out on inclines. I think mine does too, but thats just to vent isn't it?
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Feb 6, 2022 22:30
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Not that I'm aware of. I haven't tried to pull the sleeve looking thing out, but there is no strainer/mesh thing in it.
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Feb 7, 2022 02:32
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Just got the threaded barb fitting and the breather valve to extend the diff breather on my Tacoma. I see most people talk about using fuel line for the hose part. Also a few mention putting a loop in the line between where it comes off the axle, and goes to the frame to allow for flex/movement etc.. I have no intentions of lifting this thing beyond what its current ride height is. Is there any reason to use a loop vs just making sure that there is "extra" between the frame and axle? How much should I leave aside from at least enough that it won't stretch the gently caress out or pull the hose off the fitting if I ever top out the suspension doing some mad sikk jumps to impress the ladies?
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Feb 9, 2022 01:04
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dumb question: how do air lockers work? THEY USE AIR STUPID!!! I figured that, but what goes on when one locks, and how does it stay locked? How much air do you need for one? Are they typically something that needs a (small) tank to operate correctly? Could you (theoretically) use a bike pump or something dumb like that to lock a diff, or is it the sort of thing where you need a big burst of air at once, like how the bead on a tire is seated? Does air need to be continuously applied? Same question, but an Electric locker. Does the electricity need to be continuously applied?
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Feb 27, 2022 22:10
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Not sure if I asked this question already, but here it is again if I did. Going to extend the differential breather on my Tacoma today, should I use teflon tape or thread dope on the threads for the fitting that goes in to the diff? I've heard no, but some of the threads that I've seen people do it on, they have used it. It appears to be a tapered thread, which IIRC are *supposed* to seal via thread distortion or whatever the gently caress, but in my own experience with NPT fittings, in practice that doesn't always work as intended E: used thread dope anyway because gently caress it what's the worst that could happen? wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Mar 12, 2022 |
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Mar 12, 2022 14:30
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So how do people legally drive these "deuces" and "deuce and a halfs" that are popular with the off-road crowd on road? Are they not also classified as military or whatever the gently caress?
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Apr 9, 2022 02:34
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ryanrs posted:Lol, owned. RIP their emission deletes because jackasses refuse to keep their trucks even marginally civilized. I'm not like some super liberal tree hugger hippie dirt worshipper type but if I had God like powers every time I saw someone rolling coal I'd wave my hand a couple times and send a connecting rod or two through the side of their block. gently caress them. In other news I put my summer tires on my Tacoma today, the falken wild peak something something's and they rub a bit on the lower control arms when I have the wheel cranked right over. They are the same size as stock, but I guess it must be the tread lugs that go up the sidewalls a bit that are doing it. Is it safe to assume that this is fine provided I just don't constantly drive with the wheel all the way over? Is this my introduction to 'trying to do some off roady poo poo 101, tires that probably rub on something'? I don't want to get spacers, and am willing to tolerate it if there aren't any safety issues I should worry about. E: Heres a pic for those that might (probably don't) give a poo poo. Thats at full lock to the one side. It squeals a bit. I should probably check the tire pressures, that might help just a bit. 
wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Apr 11, 2022 |
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Apr 10, 2022 23:35
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rifles posted:Nothing should be rubbing anywhere on stock size tires, not even close. I double checked the size on the sidewall. 265 65 17, same as stock. Checked the tire pressures, might actually be a bit high at 34 psi. I think stock might be 29? Or maybe thats the older Tundras that we have at work and I'm confusing the two, but the tire pressures were taken after sitting all day, not much sun, not particularly hot. Like I said, I think the tread lugs that come up the side wall are the culprits, as they stick out a bit, but I don't know what it was like with the factory tires, never paid attention. cursedshitbox posted:
I'll see if that can be done. Thanks.
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Apr 12, 2022 01:56
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FogHelmut posted:Rubbing is usually a width issue more than height unless you're going more than +2" in diameter. Yeah, its definitely on the sidewalls. Checked tire placard on the door opening. Should be 29 psi for stock tires. I think maybe I'll drop a few psi and see what happens.
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Apr 12, 2022 11:32
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I swear I heard somewhere that one or both of the rear sparkplugs on xterras and frontiers are a real motherfucker to get at.
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Apr 28, 2022 22:56
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I emailed them months ago about getting just a set of mounting plates as I wanted to build my own sliders. They got back to me after a day or two, said they'd probably do it, asked me what my ride was and after I replied, I never heard back. Guess I dodged a bullet?
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May 17, 2022 22:49
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FogHelmut posted:Most generic front hitches seem to sit below the bumper though, which is bad. And all-in, its another $1-2k I don't need to spend right now. I'd love to get a front hitch for that purpose too, but some of the ones that I've seen are basically a trailer hitch, mounted to the front (DUH!!) and sit *really* fuckin low on there, like dig in to the ground after your approach angle is decimated because of this thing low. I'd consider one that might be hidden in the bumper, but I don't like the idea of cutting (yet, maybe after my warranty expires) and if I do that, Its almost(?) maybe(?) worth my time to just get a front mounted winch? I have an ARB recovery point on my tacoma thats supposed to be good for about 17,000 pounds of pull. I've been kinda toying with the idea of how to mount a winch to that. If it stuck out a few inches further, or was a bit wider, I bet I could do something with it.
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May 19, 2022 01:40
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drat! That video was dope as gently caress!
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May 19, 2022 11:53
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If you had the choice between E lockers and air lockers, which would you choose? Lets assume they are from a reputable company. I'm not planning anything (yet, maybe in a few years) just curious. It seems like e lockers might be better because you don't need to have an air system on board, but I don't know anything about anything.
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May 22, 2022 04:05
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 22:07 |
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I forgot about my post about lockers until now. Thanks for all the replies, very informative. Another question, what is selective or was it selectable locker and automatic locker? Is it: Selective= turn it on, its on, turn it off, its off? Does Automatic= "turn it on" but only locks when wheelspin/ x amount of difference in wheel speeds is detected and then shuts off when you're actually moving? Or something else?
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Jun 6, 2022 04:12
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