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ACEofsnett posted:This is a fun truck, but desperately needs the (rare) solid axle in the front. Rare? Toyota front axles are incredibly cheap to come by. I've had 2 given to me. I use a spare birfield as a door stop.
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Jan 30, 2008 09:11
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They were never factory installed on '91 USDM Toyota pickups. '79-'85 were the only years of the mini truck front axle in the USA.
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Jan 30, 2008 15:47
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:No, don't cut up my precious Wagoneers! They are becoming the new Scout. The only reason anyone ever cuts up a Wagoneer is to get rid of rust. Usually by making the entire rig small enough to fit into a dumpster.
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Jan 30, 2008 16:13
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Jack_Handey posted:The housings are a LOT stronger than Yota axle housings too You just need to be using the right housings. Land Cruiser housings are massive for their size. Mini truck housings fit inside 'cruiser housings. I still bent mine. My avatar is eerily accurate.
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Jan 30, 2008 23:52
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Those have to be the second-wimpiest hub lockouts I've ever seen. The only wimpier ones being the stock ones on Bronco IIs and Rangers.
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Jan 31, 2008 02:26
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That thing must be a lot bigger than I thought, it looked like a Dana 30 front end. Edit: That can't be a '78 Bronco axle. It's way too narrow. And unless you're willing to throw entirely too much money at the '78 and '79 Ford half ton fronts, they're not worth narrowing. You sure that's not a TJ front with lockouts? Edit2: It looks high pinion...Could it be an XJ front? Edit3: Okay, it doesn't look like a 30...EB 44? Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Jan 31, 2008 |
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Jan 31, 2008 03:15
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Toucan Sam posted:narrowed 6" by Currie Ent. That explains it. The problem with those axles is that the radius arm mounts are integral with the tube. You can't narrow it without replacing the tubes. The average guy in his shop doesn't have the ability to do that properly, but Currie would (and they'd charge you a pretty penny for it). If you're going to narrow it though, why not just go with a Wagoneer front 44? 61" wide, knuckles that are the best for hi-steer, and parts that can be found anywhere. Just need to get a set of 5 lug hubs off an '80's Ford F150 with TTB and it wouldn't need nearly the work. Of course, it would be low pinion, but that's stronger anyway.
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Jan 31, 2008 04:10
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I think this pretty much points out the fundamental problem with building a 4x4 these days: Almost all the good used parts were built 20+ years ago and have either been broken or scrapped by now. It's almost getting cheaper to start from scratch with an axle than trying to find a used one 
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Jan 31, 2008 04:47
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Why would you not want a Grand Wagoneer axle? That's the one that's the right size. Also, in '86 there was an XJ rebranded as a Wagoneer. Dana 30 high pinion front end, 61" wide.
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Jan 31, 2008 05:21
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Since I don't think there were any XJs with gears that high, I'd say that '84 would be good. Just need to make sure it doesn't have the vacuum disconnect.
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Jan 31, 2008 05:59
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-luke- posted:Are you sure the Ford spindles will mount on the Waggy outer knuckles? I know the Waggy knuckles use the same spindle bolt pattern at Chevy stuff, but I vaguely recall Ford spindles using a different bolt circle or maybe a different diameter for the hole in the knuckle that the axle shaft passes through. You're right on both counts, but I think it was USA-1 that did the flag thing more. I think the ford spindles have a different bolt pattern, and don't they have a smaller bore too? I know their '60 spindles do. If you want to see an oddball 44 look at the Dodge 1/2 ton units that are 5x4.5 with flat top knuckles and patterns that match, oh, NOTHING else.
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Jan 31, 2008 09:52
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Dividend Special posted:stuff Mike? Looks like you leave near Lake Otis and Tudor? PlasticSun posted:This year Skier and I are looking at a 30 day, 12,700 mile trip up to Deadhorse, Alaska in Purdhoe Bay on the arctic sea. We're looking to run the Dempster highway, the Dawson highway, Denali highway and see places like Homer, Seward, Haines, Kenai Fjords and spend 4 days kayaking in glacier bay while doing backcountry camping. Call me when you get to Juneau.
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Feb 9, 2008 13:29
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Dividend Special posted:Do I know you? And no, I used to work by there but I'm on Rabbit Creek. Nope. I'm just loving creepy. I recall you posting when you first moved up, under a different username. Edit: Mike G. That was your username. Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Feb 11, 2008 |
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Feb 11, 2008 11:29
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That second vehicle that you're praising the bracing on isn't the Land Cruiser you were originally talking about. Land Cruiser = SUV Mini truck = Pickup 
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Feb 13, 2008 06:54
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DELETED, you wouldn't happen to know where I could get a manual steering box for a Scout II cheap, would you? Also, you wouldn't happen to know if it has a different number of turns lock-to-lock than the power assisted gearbox? (Edit: trouser chili, you wouldn't happen to know either, would you?) renraku posted:A very broken diff and a very expensive tow back home I can't understand why people transplant 10 bolts into anything. Edit2: I'm a loving idiot. I counted 6 lugs the first time. Durr. I can't understand why anybody thought the Dana 35 was a good idea in the first place. Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Feb 18, 2008 |
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Feb 18, 2008 17:12
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DELETED posted:Can't help you on either count, sorry Yours is manual? Are they rebuildable? Are there even parts available?
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Feb 18, 2008 17:30
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I know an old IH guy who used to work on and own all kinds of Harvesters. I'll try and get ahold of him to see if he knows
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I don't own a scout It just so happens that (IMO), the best/strongest power steering conversion for my FJ40 uses a Scout box. Mounts outside the frame, pitman arm faces forward. I have a power assisted box (tripped over it freshly dumped in a gravel pit. Score!), but a potential future plan calls for a manual gearbox later. In such a case, I'd need one to replace the power unit.
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Feb 18, 2008 22:07
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DELETED posted:Haha, well it looks like the rebuild kit might be a little more price-friendly, it's about $40 vs a new manual steering box, which for some reason is about $100 more than a power steering box How much do the power steering boxes cost? (trying to get an estimate on costs for both that and a manual box) Given how much the project I hope to do will eventually cost, I suspect buying a manual steering box will be a drop in the bucket. The problem is I don't want to count on the availability of old parts years in the future. So I'm always on the hunt for parts I doubt I'll need within the next 10 years  Anyone know how well this would turn tires off road? http://www.flamingriver.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=356/prd356.htm Edit: Anyone know if Astro vans ever came with manual steering?
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Feb 19, 2008 17:28
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I think that Stak is manufacturing a billet Dana 300 casing with the Scout 'Texas' bolt pattern now. You just deposit all the guts from a jeep 300 (or get all new aftermarket parts!) and put them in the casing, rather than tracking down a rare-as-hell Scout 300.
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Feb 19, 2008 21:02
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Just an FYI, helical cut gears are stronger than straight cut gears. Yes, they get deflection, but the individual 'teeth' are far larger.
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Feb 19, 2008 23:00
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Probably because it was cheaper and/or easier to design.
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Feb 19, 2008 23:23
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Is it possible to trim that little lip of steel out from under the fenders/headlights? I think it would look a whole lot better with that missing.
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Mar 31, 2008 15:21
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Usually you try to go for at least 50% over the weight of the vehicle, preferably double. So a SWB vehicle weighing at or around 4000 pounds when it hits the trails usually gets an 8000 pound winch. Obviously that doesn't work so well with heavier trucks when the winches get really loving expensive. I'd try to get at least a 12k if you can, preferably 15k. You can get by with lighter rated winches and lots of pulleys, but it's slow as hell and you have to stop a lot to let the winch cool down.
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Mar 31, 2008 15:37
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BigKOfJustice posted:Another option for the jeep crowd who are running hmmwv wheels with the beadlocks and run flats. Considering the lack of tire options for 16.5" wheels at least. While that's a drat fine looking tire for heavy rigs that see mostly hard pack duty, it looks like total crap for a light vehicle. Also, drat near every off road tire is available in 16.5". What lack of tires? It's the 18+" crowd that have to search.
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Apr 6, 2008 01:30
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Tire chains are great in mud but you need real chains, not the lightweight wire & elastic crap you can get on Amazon. Old Alaskan moose buggies used smooth aircraft tires with chains for traction: 
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Apr 17, 2021 16:54
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Do they work well on exposed rock that may be wet or somewhat slippery? I would not use chains in that scenario. I imagine it would be like driving a chain-equipped forklift in concrete: terrible.
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Apr 18, 2021 06:05
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Another option is a hitch-mount winch. If you’re stuck, it’s often easiest to pull back the way you came. Plus you can remove the winch and stash it inside, where it will be less likely to get poached. Of course, you have to run some really big wires all the way to the back of the truck.
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Apr 18, 2021 22:34
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ili posted:The bullbar I have has weak zones built into the mounts so in a hard crash it will fold a bit and allegedly is engineered to not mess with the airbags. It's a legal requirement here, isn't it required over there?  We’re required to have a ‘bumper’ front and rear. No definition other than that. I could probably find half a dozen made of wood within a mile of my house.
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Apr 19, 2021 02:54
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:My company has accounts at Fastenal, Brafasco and a few other industrial supply places so I should be able to pick up certain gourmet poo poo (straps, shackles etc) and pay my boss back. Most B2B places are happy to do ‘on this account, but I’m paying now’. A lot of them don’t care to check your references either because you’re not actually billing anything to the company in question. I know people who walk in to places and say they’re with X company (that they have no affiliation with but that likely has an account) and that usually works. I used to buy stuff using my company’s accounts all the time when I was an expeditor. I learned that trick from my boss so I know he didn’t care.
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Jul 26, 2021 17:31
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I’ve got a Chinese diesel heater and it’s awesome. My experimenting has been that we sleep an hour and a half longer any time we use it below about 50*F. It will take days to burn a gallon of fuel. The biggest things are making sure you get one with the right controller (or buying an Afterburner controller for the same price as the heater), buying the 5KW model even if you think the 3KW would work, and also making sure that you have a vent to dump excess heat/humidity. We’ve figured out that it’s best to run the heater + vent fan because the heat warms up the space and all the moisture will evaporate out of your wet clothes. If you have a vent fan it will blow the humid air out, otherwise the indoor humidity spikes and it feels like a sauna even if the temperature hasn’t gone up.
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Feb 2, 2023 18:05
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Vampire Panties posted:I'm done with my apartment March 1st, and my cousin is getting married in Kenai Alaska June 3rd. Just be aware the Kenai Peninsula sucks a week either side of Memorial Day. That’s one of the reasons I won’t move back within 6 hours of Anchorage. As for the diesel heater, I also have a Vevor and it works great. The controller you want is the ‘red’ or ‘blue’ unit with a remote. Those have altitude adjustment. It doesn’t do it automatically, though, and getting to that part of the menu is a PITA, but they will do it. I’ve used mine (with the blue controller) from sea level to 10,000 feet. I, and a couple others I know, have had good luck ordering directly from the Vevor website.
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Feb 2, 2023 22:57
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