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powderific posted:Along the lines of overland and expedition, I've been watching a ton of this australian 4wd youtube channel over the past few weeks. Think it's been posted before but I'd forgotten about it: These blokes give me the fucken shits hey. Not as bad as those all4wd wankers but still. Dunno why, old mate just seems a bit too chirpy while flogging their china import gear. That said they've got a video doing the old tele track in a $1000 hilux which was decent.
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Jun 25, 2018 23:27
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I have stauns. Set each one in the set at a different pressure and colour code them.
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Jun 28, 2018 02:07
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gimpsuitjones posted:Any dramas with them? I was thinking 2 pairs at 2 different pressures. like 2 at 20 for riverbeds and 2 at 12 for the beach or something. They seem like a slightly slower, less accurate and more expensive but lazier method than a quick deflator Nah, I've never had any problems. But I'm not the type to be anal about tyre pressures. Near enough is more than good enough. I like the idea of just screwing the deflator on and letting it do its thing while I do something else or just wander about having a stretch.
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Jun 28, 2018 03:49
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ExecuDork posted:I am moving to Armidale, NSW, Australia, and I hope to buy a car fairly soon after I get there. My contract is for 3 years and I want to get out and explore the area as well as some longer trips. The NSW National Parks often describe access to remote campgrounds as requiring 4x4. Don't buy a great wall, they're fucken garbage mate. I wouldn't trust one to go anywhere you couldn't in a subie and get you back in one piece. How far off road do you want to go? If you're doing unsealed roads not too far out in the sticks you'll be ok in a Subaru etc, we used to do them in a falcadore. But if you're going out further I'd be looking at a proper fourby, at least in QLD some of the less used tracks are too much for an awd and you want to have peace of mind. That said, if your budget is 10k and you want something newish you'd be better buying a forester and just not going anywhere too rough.
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Dec 15, 2018 09:00
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You might want to work on that tbh. Not sure on how far bush you're planning to go but there are plenty of spots even closer to the coast where if you broke down you'd be at least a solid day's walk from any civilisation or even a mobile phone signal. I mean I've no idea what canada is like so maybe this is just teaching grandma how to suck eggs but being able to rely on your vehicle is pretty important. Anyway, jimnys are cool and go lots of places. Not sure how comfortable they are around town, I've seen a few out in the sticks and they just keep trucking along. They've got a fairly small fuel tank stock so you might need to take a jerry or two on longer trips if that's your thing. ili fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Dec 17, 2018 |
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Dec 17, 2018 22:56
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Beaut ute.
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Dec 23, 2018 13:17
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We were looking to buy a grand vitara in the 90s, went with something else cos they felt pretty chintzy. From memory there's a fair bit more space in the prado too.
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Jan 24, 2019 02:30
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Don't snatch off your towball jesus. Some oval office got killed doing that a year or two ago in some park down around Sydney. It's not something you'd ever need to do even if you don't have any other gear. Pull out the towbar chuck the end of your snatch strap in the receiver and put the pin through it.
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Feb 3, 2019 00:40
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Aye the traction control has usually worked pretty well for me, it took my stock hilux up some steep and slippery poo poo my mates lifted patrol struggled with. There's a few bits where it can't compare with a locker though, things like long slippery mud covered climbs with little benches it just couldn't make it spinning three wheels but with a front locker it would have just gotten up. Still felt pretty good to take a stocko ifs ute up 99% of these tracks that were challenging for lifted 4.2TD patrols on nice big tyres.
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Jul 29, 2019 02:07
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Ferremit posted:Yeah one of the synthetic ropes. There’s heaps around now not just dyneema, but since I use my winch more for lifting wheels up and down off my mezzanine than for actual vehicle recoveries it’s not worth the investment- especially since my vehicle sits outside 99% of its life and in AU that means your winch cable cops a LOT of UV What type of bar do you have? All the fourbys I've seen with winches have it tucked well in away from the sun with only a small amount exposed right at the tip. I wonder if that small exposed portion could be sleeved with something to give extra uv protection too. FogHelmut posted:Is a length of dyneema that expensive? I haven't looked much, but when I did it seemed hard to find. These guys selling $50 soft shackles just take a foot of rope and tie a knot in it. It's not difficult thing to make yourself, if you can get the materials. It's not cheap compared to normal line but not super expensive either, you can get it pretty easily either through 4wd suppliers or chandlers, maybe climbing stores too. But I'm not sure most people are willing and able to splice or tie knots well enough to trust them with several tons of force, having something let go while you're winching in a lovely situation or being snatched wouldn't be worth the savings.
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Aug 5, 2019 02:17
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Ferremit posted:ARB bar, but theres a lot of cut outs on the top of it for winch access that allow a lot of light in on your spool. Bugger. Ferremit posted:They are definitely not a cheap exercise to retrofit- Your talking $4-7 a meter for the rope depending on your diameter- Just a quick look and a length of 8mm Dynamica rope to suit my Warn XD9000 winch is $650, plus then you have to change the fair lead and hook too. Nah, I was replying to old mate's point about making your own soft shackles. 7 bucks a metre seems a bit on the high side but I get your point, I don't think I'd be rushing out to replace wire winch rope unless it's already hosed. The abrasion bit gets me a bit worried too, all the proper recovery points on the fourbys we go out with just have holes for metal shackles but using a soft shackle it feels like the edges should be radiused.
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Aug 5, 2019 09:42
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Maybe it's just the shows I watch on youtube but it looks like you blokes over in Canada South don't seem to run bullbars the way most of us do, the ones I generally see are like little steel bumpers instead of some great big cunting thing. Come to think of it I'm not sure I've seen any aftermarket recovery points chucked on either. Do your fourbies or jeeps come from the factory with proper recovery points?
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Aug 7, 2019 01:31
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Ferremit posted:I think it depends a lot on the wildlife. If you hit a moose, your standard ARB bullbar isnt going to do diddly poo poo, cos all you'll do is knock the big bastards legs out from under it and slide it up your bonnet into your windscreen and face. Yeah I get the wildlife is a bit different. I did see a pic of a 79 with a big fuckoff post bullbar that hit a wild horse on the Bruce Highway, there wasn't much left of the bullbar or the front end after that. We're not allowed to make our own bars much either for anything made in the last decade, anything for an airbag-equipped vehicle needs to be certified as not affecting the airbags. Same issue with liability too, my ute's got 14mm steel loops through the chassis rails at the front, with a nut behind the rail and welded in on both sides. She's not going anywhere without a fair bit of effort especially with the equalising strap. But Toyota make it quite clear they're only tie down points and not to be used by anyone for anything ever. Although one of the fancy pants models comes with rated points from the factory front and rear.
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Aug 7, 2019 01:56
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ExecuDork posted:Aussies love giant gently caress-off bullbars. Those rolling barricades bolted to the front of every Commodore ute? Absent from anything without air brakes in the frozen wastes of Soviet Canuckistan. It has less to do with real wildlife collision risks and everything to do with local culture. That, and laws. Aussies are permitted to attach all manner of aftermarket things to the outsides of their cars, Canadians get fines and told to cut the drat thing off for most exterior mods. My simple little commuter CR-V has a light bar that lights up the whole drat road plus everything out to 20 metres to the sides and overhead; we go nightspotting for koalas by just driving slowly down a tree-lined road with the high beams blasting. That kind of light setup is verbotten in Canada. That thing's kinda cool, like a comp style nudge bar. What are the modification laws like in Canada? It's interesting you say we're permissive in bullbars and so forth, looking at the states I see so much stuff they can do that we can't. You can go up to two inches on the wheels and/or suspension without approval but 3 inch lifts need an engineers signoff, so do body lifts to a maximum of 2 inches. It wouldn't matter if Jesus himself descended from heaven blowing a golden trumpet and proclaiming that 4 inch lifts and 37s were the one true path to heaven, you're never getting that through legally. Dunno what it's like in Canada though.
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Aug 8, 2019 01:12
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Which Rocky did you guys get over there? First manual I learned to drive in was a 2.8TD leaf sprung live axle Rocky. We've still got her too, she's 30 odd years old in mint condition with maybe 150ks on the clock, mum drives her once a fortnight just to keep everything going. I wouldn't describe it as a great car for long hauls or comfort, the gearing meant you were revving its tits off on the freeway and handling would be best described as mostly adequate. Still miss driving her though, maybe one day I'll get the chance to put some proper tyres on and go hit up sundown or landcruiser park and give her a proper workout. I tried to buy her a year or two ago but given the way I've belted the crap out of my hilux mum didn't want to sell her.
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Aug 26, 2019 01:46
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DJ Commie posted:Depending on what country you're in, it'd be called the, Rocky, Sportrak or Feroza. We only had the wide body IFS and 1.6L HD-E gasoline engine. I think the chassis code is F310. I bought it almost ten years ago, made it onto Jalopnik, daily drove it, and used it as a ranch truck. I've slowly brought it from the base model up to the high trim, with nicer interior, installing power steering, air conditioning, and am tracking down a LSD for the rear. I made some lift shackles and have the front torsion bars turn up a notch to clear some 31" tires, and it has a snorkel for the incessant dust here. Ah, that's cool as mate. Yeah it'd be a Feroza here, the Rocky was its heavier, more agricultural brother which I think was called a Rugger there. Looks like a fun drive, I love the (relatively) small swb japanese fourbies.
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Aug 26, 2019 05:34
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powderific posted:Some googling I think it’s probably this thing: https://www.sbfilters.com/particle-separator/truck Dunno what the ones in your link are like but I've got the normal cyclonic snorkel head prefilter on the ute and it works a treat.
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Nov 18, 2019 06:35
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Jeez that Bronco looks alright. Wonder if it will turn up diwn here eventually, and if it'll still have the option for 35s. Recently I picked up a D23 Navara. She's basically stock at the moment with just a set of all-terrains and 3mm stainless bash plates. Got her out for a shakedown at Sundown. Lots of muddy trails covered in rock, steep loose climbs with wombat holes. I was really impressed with how she climbs but she just doesn't have much droop in stock form. Bash plates copped a bit of a workout too. Looking at lift kits at the moment, a mild 2 or 3 inch setup should be the perfect mix for extra clearance without ruining the everyday driveability. Still tossing up whether to put rock sliders on now or wait until I've trashed the sidesteps first.  
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Jul 15, 2020 00:00
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Got out for a bit of a drive yesterday, with the swaybar disconnected the nav goes alright for an ifs ute on 32s.  Old mate brought his Triton too, drove all the same bits but he made it look a lot more dramatic. 
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Nov 30, 2020 00:04
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I only put a bullbar and winch on the front of my ute 6 months ago, was 4wding for 4 years before that. It's worse in every way on road and pretty much useless for the mild stuff too. But having the winch on has given my group the confidence to try things with a much higher level of commitment because if we can't make it we can do a nice slow controlled recovery instead of trying to reverse back out of a really tight steep spot. If you're serious about 4wding I'd recommend one, if you're just starting out I'd spend my money elsewhere until you get to the point where the lack of a winch is what's holding you back.Splinter posted:I'm not an expert in crash systems or anything, but my concern with bypassing or partially bypassing the stock bumper with something rigid like steel mounted to the frame is it would throw off how force is transferred or the timing of how force is transferred, which could throw off how things are designed to crumple or the timing of when airbags deploy. Not sure how much of a safety concern that is for the modified car in practice though. My guess is something like a steel bumper actually protects your engine bay components more than the stock bumper, at the expense of more damage to whatever you hit (since your frontend is now crumpling less). The bullbar I have has weak zones built into the mounts so in a hard crash it will fold a bit and allegedly is engineered to not mess with the airbags. It's a legal requirement here, isn't it required over there?
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Apr 19, 2021 01:25
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I like having a winch, it wasn't that expensive and gives me the confidence to hit up more exciting trails than I otherwise would, in a group or solo. A+ would recommend.
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Jun 2, 2021 07:11
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Are sliders that hard to fit? Every set I've done has been pretty simple, basically just slide on or press with a jack then do up some bolts, had to do some clearancing sometimes but nothing drastic.
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Jun 10, 2021 07:23
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MomJeans420 posted:Not at all, I was planning on installing them myself but I'm seven weeks in to getting my thumb half ripped off and just now starting to type with two hands, and I still can't even tie my shoes. Ordinarily I'd ask my buddies to help out, but right now it's a perfect storm between injuries, pregnant wives, recently out of long term relationship guys, and recently into long term relationship guys. Ah, that sounds right hosed mate.
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Jun 10, 2021 09:19
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Dobbo MRAs look like good value but I'd want to be sure they've solved their alleged QA problems. There was a number of reports of their MRR shocks blowing hoses or fittings which doesn't fill me with confidence.
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Sep 10, 2021 02:50
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It gets pretty restrictive, even with an engineer you can't (generally) do suspension lifts over 3 inches or increase your tyre diameter more than 2 inches over factory, can't increase track width by more than one lr two inches two iirc. Engineering is technically required for suspension lifts over 2 inches and every now and again the cops and transport inspectors will do a blitz and pull over, measure and defect every 4wd they see.
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Sep 18, 2021 02:45
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Yeah I quite like my soft shackles. They're lighter but also they can be easier to hook up on some recovery points where a steel shackle can be difficult to finagle into alignment. They may be better for situations where you're not able to snatch in an exactly straight line because the shackle can pivot in the recovery point but maybe not. And it's probably not a major thing but I definitely prefer using them wherever possible just to minimise the possibility of having a steel projectile whizzing around if something lets go. All in all I'd definitely keep some in the recovery kit.
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Oct 28, 2021 03:34
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I had cooper a/ts before and didn't much care for them, they were noisy and didn't work terribly well on wet roads or in the mud. Now I'm running ko2s and am pretty happy with their performance off road. They seem pretty tough so the extra weight does have some benefit too.
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Nov 16, 2021 23:32
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Diff breathers are worth it, they're pretty cheap and easy.
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Jan 2, 2022 23:25
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Dunno about making your own mate. I always just bought the fleabay kits with the right fittings for the car and a pile of hose. But if you can buy the right fittings individually for cheaper or it's more satisfying, why not? Have you checked what's there already? Some will come with decent breathers from the factory, but we don't have Tacomas here so nfi. Also if you're gunna upgrade the suspension later on, give yourself extra slack in the rear. After putting in long travel stuff in my ute the rear diff breather pulls out and it's one of those lovely jobs that just sits on the todo list for yonks.
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Jan 3, 2022 00:02
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Evil SpongeBob posted:Ok, a follow-up dumb question but why is it bad if it doesn't vent? Pressurises the diff housing and can gently caress your axle seals.
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Jan 3, 2022 04:58
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I've seen guys vent them into the airbox too, so then theoretically the top of the vent tube is the top of the snorkel and if that's underwater you've got bigger problems than diff breathers. Never tried it myself though. Might be worth a go at some point cos we occasionally get water up over the bonnet.
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Jan 3, 2022 11:15
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Tenchrono posted:Finally got possession of the cruiser after a week or so trying to get shipping and logistics handled. That looks like an absolute peach, well done mate.
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Feb 2, 2022 00:49
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She drives like an absolute dream (from 1986). I think first first thing I need to do is get new rotors and pads, along with flushing any and all fluids since I think it was sitting for a bit. Dogs love all the room in the back as well.
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Seems like wank to me, on the old ute I dragged the receiver a bit and it didn't cause any real problems, on the new one I don't have a towbar and have smacked up the bumper and rear quarters of the tub a bit but who gives a poo poo it's for 4wding not posing in the carpark. If you're dragging the hitch constantly you'd be better off doing a tub chop and/or bumper replacement with a high clearance towbar setup. If they have hayman reese over there, they sell one called the x bar which allegedly has more clearance plus integrated bash plate under the hitch receiver to protect your sockets.
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May 7, 2022 01:32
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ARB air lockers have a reputation for seals failing, pressurising the diff and blowing your oil out the axle seals and ARB as a company have a reputation(at least in my circles) for charging like a wounded bull along with piss-poor customer service. TJM apparently don't but dunno if you can get them over there. Air lockers need a permanently mounted compressor and air tank which suits some people but also adds to the cost. If funds weren't an issue I'd go with air lockers front and rear with a good in cab compressor and an air tank somewhere to do dual duty for lockers and tyres, but there's nothing wrong with e-lockers instead. If you've already got a factory rear diff lock and only want to do the front, the e-locker will be way cheaper. I've used both and would be happy with either, air lockers can be a little bit faster to engage and don't unlock and relock switching from forwards to reverse but they're fine. There's also these sort of things (I think you lot call them detroit lockers?) which I'd happily run up front on anything with manual freewheeling hubs. Truth be told they're probably a better option for that specific setup anyway. Fair bit cheaper too and you don't even need to pull the diff centre out you just replace the spider gears. Not sure about what they're like on the rear, some say they're fine but I'd expect a bit of banging and likely be a bit sketchy in the wet.
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May 22, 2022 06:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:Detroit lockers are an Eaton-made brand name for one of their full carrier replacement automatic mechanical lockers. They work on similar principles but it looks like Lokka is one of the many options that fits inside your existing carrier. I'm tempted to throw one in my front Dana 30 now that I have a 2Low so that if a front autolocker is causing me problems with steering, I can still stay in low range. I mean, I could just add an ARB but a Dana 30 is not worth paying to get one of those installed and set up. Ah, ta. I've been waiting for lokka to finish development and get stock in for my ifs ute's front but covid sent everything awry. At the price I reckon it's well worth a try before committing 3-4x as much for selectable lockers.
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May 22, 2022 06:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:If your ute is anything with any aftermarket support (or any common center section for the front diff), I'd be shocked if there aren't half a dozen lunchbox lockers out there for it already. I'm in aus, from my limited googling lokka are the only ones available down here. I spoke with them a while back and they were having supply chain issues. I've got an np300 navara which is ok for aftermarket but lags well behind that for the hilux and rangers. No rush anyway it's more of a when I get around to it type of mod.
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May 22, 2022 07:52
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It absolutely is something you'll work out your own way of doing with a bit of experience. You'll know your own rig and what it can do unlocked vs what you'll need to lock for. Only other advice I haven't seen posted here yet is don't apply them when one wheel is already slipping or lifted and you're on the throttle, try to look ahead and engage them before you need them.
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Jul 8, 2022 02:42
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Not planning on getting a winch any time soon, but how much line do y'all typically have loaded up on your winches? I know that you lose power/pulling force the more layers you have, but whats a decent amount of line to have on a winch, thats not "too much"? I suppose too much is only too much when anchor points are close at hand, but just looking for a general idea. Is 100 feet like a "standard" winch line length? There would be a way to work it out based on drum diameter and line thickness but you don't need to because the winch manufacturer should make that information available. This is what mine looked like:  Unless you're winching all the time and really know that what you need is super different than what is specced on the winch you want to buy, just go with it as it comes from the manufacturer. You can always buy winch extension straps to use which give you the benefit of additional line when an anchor point is very far away and/or you need more for a double line pull etc without having to worry about too much line on the drum for shorter pulls. You don't want to be scrabbling through the bush or up a steep slippy muddy rocky hill for ages looking for a far enough away winch point then spending even longer spooling the drat thing up again if you can avoid it. Ambassadorofsodomy posted:E: Also, I have a trailer hitch mounted "recovery point" just something I got at princess auto, its a chunk of metal slips in to the receiver, and a 3/4 inch shackle fits through a hole in it so I can attach a strap or whatever the gently caress. Are you just curious on how to work it out or worried that your gear won't be good enough? If it's the latter, don't put too much stress into it because it's likely fine. I've got the same sort of recovery hitch, used only a couple of times, and not had any issues. If you want a quick and dirty way of looking at it you can take the ultimate tensile strength times the surface area times the factor of shear to uts (0.6 from what I read but opinions vary) times 2 because it's in double shear then putting in a safety factor of your choice. Doing that up based on some quickly available material sheets you're looking at 40+ thousand pounds on a grade 5 5/8 pin after safety factor. Caveat being I'm not an engineer of any kind let alone a mech eng. If you really want to get deep down into it there's any number of ways you can look at it from an engineering perspective taking into account the thickness of the hitch, receiver, tolerance between the two (which allows for bending as well as shear), but you'd also need to think about the length of the shoulder on your bolt because the threaded area isn't as strong and would likely be a point of failure, how much tension you put it under doing it up, and also thinking about the material properties as using your 4wd gear doesn't happen in the lab and things are dirty, possibly salty, potentially exposed to repeated variable loading cycles with lots of vibration in between. Some manufacturers suggest grade 8 bolts are more affected by the little nicks and dings things pick up over time. There's a billion opinions out there but bugger all real world testing from what I've seen. That's probably far too many words. Tl;dr she'll be right ay. ili fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jul 29, 2022 |
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Jul 29, 2022 00:57
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chrisgt posted:Also, it's drop hitches that are really dangerous, not tow balls in general for recovery. Yeah nah, tow balls are not for recovery and can become lethal projectiles. It's not safe to use one regardless of whether it's a drop or flat hitch. Don't snatch off a towball. People here have been killed doing that.
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Jul 29, 2022 02:54
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chrisgt posted:
For real mate, drop hitches might be a problem but they're not the problem. That drop hitch broke and has no place being used for a recovery but for the love of all that is holy don't snatch off a towball and don't tell people it's ok to snatch off a towball. It's not. They are not built to handle that sort of load and more importantly if it does shear you've just got yourself an enormous slingshot with a two inch steel ball travelling at over 300km/h. There's absolutely no reason to ever use one because you can always just pull out the tow hitch and connect your strap directly to the hitch pin anyway. Not to have too much of a go at you, just people with little or no experience read this thread and we don't want to give them the wrong idea. It's not safe to use a towball to snatch regardless of the type of hitch.
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Jul 30, 2022 03:41
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