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Mantle
May 15, 2004

I have an AWD Honda Element and I want to do more hunting and backcountry camping with it in BC. It's basically ok on the FSRs but I do get a little concerned about rocks even on the main FSRs. I'd like to be able to go up more of the spurs, but still all on FSR (no off road or rock climbing). Some of the roads I've gone up in my hunting partners pickup seem a bit steep for the Element too.

I'm considering selling and getting a 2nd gen Vitara to be more capable. I live in a condo so I want to stick to one car to do everything. I like the size of the Element in the city.

1. Is this going to accomplish what I want and
2. Is there another way to modify the Element to do what I want?

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Mantle
May 15, 2004

I just got a JDM Pajero IO imported to Canada and the dealer put a 2" spacer lift on it. I'm getting a rubbing sound under braking but I can't see anywhere the tires might be rubbing. It's still on stock size tires. What else could it be?

Mantle
May 15, 2004

ryanrs posted:

Oh yeah, it's a huge deal.

To all my fellow goons driving around on fire roads with highway tires, next time you're out, try airing down to 20-25 psi and see how you like it. But do not drive at high speed on 25 psi (maybe keep it under 40 mph at 25 psi).

The difference in ride quality will be amazing. I run bigger than OEM tires at 15 psi and it is so nice for washboard roads. Really, try it.

Is it ok to do this even if I'm using typical stock size tires? I have 215/70/16s on my Pajero IO.

Mantle
May 15, 2004

Do you all carry fuel in your cabin? My car only has around 400km hwy range but no way to carry fuel outside of the car unless I get a custom hitch fabricated or roof racks and a basket.

Mantle
May 15, 2004

There's also a strawberry milkshake issue with the radiators on the 2nd gen Xterras. Replace with aftermarket radiator and it's ok I think.

Mantle
May 15, 2004

Paulie posted:

There are some out on the trails that will try everything in 2wd. Then try in 4wd. Then 4 low. Then rear locker. Then front locker. These people are annoying.

It will definitely come with experience, but you'll get to the point approaching an obstacle where you'll know what it will probably take. Theres a great video on one of the Aussie channels on YouTube about front vs rear locker that demonstrates what each will do on it's own in certain situations.

Open diffs on slippery road driving.

That sounds like me! I am new and the advice I've heard is to use 4x4 to get yourself out of trouble, not into trouble.

Mantle
May 15, 2004

blindjoe posted:

I don't know if this is the right place, but Im looking for some advice on buying a 4x4 suv as I have moved and don't have a commute very often.
I need to be able to tow small things, like a 2k lb trailer, have 4 people and a dog inside, and want to go on logging roads.

Currently have a hybrid Pacifica minivan, which I have been using to tow things even though its not supposed to.
I have a Leaf that I used to drive to work, but now barely moves.

I am cleaning up the Leaf to sell, and will have say $15k to spend.

I was thinking a 4 runner, but those are expensive.
Then I was thinking of a Sequoia, but only the first gen look OK to me, and they all have 300k km on them.
- I may end up with one of these, as they seem ok

I had a Nissan Pathfinder, but that was a 2014 so it was just an Altima Station wagon.

I don't think a pickup is right as you immediately put a cover on the box and make it inconvenient to load. I have the trailer for that.

I am located in Victoria, BC, so getting to far away places is a little harder to go look at cars.

Im not sure what else to look at, I think an old Land Cruiser would be best, but those are probably more work than I want to spend.
Im old now, and have less time to spend on broken old cars, but I am still too cheap to pay $80k on a new car.

What should I be looking for? Any glaring issues with the sequoia?

There are tons of low mileage well maintained vehicles in Victoria compared to Vancouver. I have heard good things about the Xterra and have seen lots in your price range (not so sure after price spike tho). It's a real body on frame truck.

Mantle
May 15, 2004

Oh one other thing I would consider is JDM vehicles, especially if they share parts with USDM vehicles, like the Prado or Hilux (probably) does. RHD really isn't that bad in a high seating position and the condition of the vehicles is excellent for the price.

Mantle
May 15, 2004

highme posted:

Was gonna add that too, the JDM market in Canada is way better than the US. You can get the good diesel poo poo,

There's another thing about the JDM market in Canada-- vehicles are eligible for import after 15 years, whereas it's 25 years for the USA. That means there is a 10 year window for Canadians to take advantage of low prices before sellers have access to the US market. The sweet spot of JDM vehicles you should be looking for are around 1997-2007.

Mantle
May 15, 2004

blindjoe posted:

I agree, unfortunately I am old now and don't have much time to get a JDM and get it registered for the road.

Maybe when the kids are oldr.

I worked with a dealer that did the import and registration. It was a BC registered vehicle when I bought it. There are lots of dealers that do that (in Vancouver at least).

Mantle
May 15, 2004

So I went up to Watersprite lake this weekend near Squamish in my stock Pajero iO. It's basically a Suzuki Sidekick sized vehicle and had no real problems with the features, except one steep area where I had diagonal wheels off the ground.

One thing I learned is that 4H by itself really can get through a lot of stuff, and 4L didn't really seem to make things better where 4H or 4Hc couldn't get me through (i.e. Where the problem is about picking the right line).

So that made me wonder, when do I need 4L? Is it just for super steep sections with lots of traction? Or getting over high obstacles like big rocks?

Mantle
May 15, 2004

Does the Gladiator have the same front suspension as the Wrangler? I drove one for a bit and thought it was ok compared to a Jimny which is also solid axle front. Now that was a scary car to drive on the highway, but it also could have been 20 year old tech and wear.

Mantle
May 15, 2004

DJ Commie posted:

Both locked if you're really on a loose surface, but the front locker tends to cause directional control issues with grabbing and not being able to get back from full-lock steering. Definitely don't run a front locker going downhill on a loose surface.

Does the advice differ for a center locker? I have a Pajero iO with a selectable center locking diff. I've never been anywhere where the center lock was necessary to get through and I couldn't get through with 4wd open diff so I don't really know how to use it at the limits.

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Mantle
May 15, 2004

ili posted:

Locking the centre diff is fine on sand or loose surfaces, the front and rear diffs will still work to let both wheels on an axle rotate at different speeds. Loads of 4wds don't have centre diffs at all, which is the same as having it locked, and work fine.

How do those vehicles without a centre diff make turns on pavement? My user manual says it will damage the transmission from binding if I drive on pavement with the centre locked.

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