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TEMPLE GRANDIN OS posted:back wrenching on the XJ. snapped the bolt to adjust the tensioner pulley. Depends on if you have a self-serve junkyard nearby.
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Jun 18, 2023 23:32
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ordered the bolt bits should be here tomorrow previous owner woes, guy at some point did an AC delete so I'm thinking of putting that back in once it's back on the road
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Jun 18, 2023 23:37
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That bolt is just a hilariously long m8x1.25 bolt IIRC with threads the whole way up (tap bolt). 96+ and 95- are different length. You get it at the dealer or what? Last time I checked the aftermarket had nothing but that was ten years ago now that I think about it... How'd that happen.
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Jun 19, 2023 04:11
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amazon, we'll see what they actually send thanks for the info
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Jun 19, 2023 08:12
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torgeaux posted:YouTube videos on removing the intake cover were first, missing steps, second, adding extra steps, finally a guy who had done it several times showed clearly all the steps.
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Jun 24, 2023 19:19
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amazon bits worked fine so new alternator, starter, belt, battery. hosed it off and took er for a rip took a few starts before it would run more than a second or so. I got out and glared at it while having a smoke then when I tried again it was fine good to have it back on the road
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Jun 24, 2023 21:57
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Do you remember which video you used? And if so, can you link it? I've got a misfire cyl 1, also on a '16 with 91xxx miles. Thinking about trying a DIY since shops are quoting pretty high for the job. https://youtu.be/KSGgP1YjzuA First time taking it off took me over an hour but, if you follow the steps it's less than 15 minutes. I suggest taking off the foam cover at the rear of the manifold for easier access to the back passenger side manifold bolt. Also, do the ignition coils if you can afford the cost. I had one disintegrate on removal, so having 6 new ones was nice. Also, only one plug was gapped wrong, and it was close, but I checked them all anyway.
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Jun 24, 2023 23:15
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torgeaux posted:Also, do the ignition coils if you can afford the cost. I had one disintegrate on removal, so having 6 new ones was nice. Also, only one plug was gapped wrong, and it was close, but I checked them all anyway.
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Jun 24, 2023 23:41
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giundy posted:My 3.8 has been making some lifter noise for a while, finally pulled off the valve cover today. There’s a ton out there about issues on the 3.6, not much on the 3.8. I wasn’t able to push the rockers down, so the lifters seem fine. One of the rockers easily moved side to side, and another a little bit. I threw a part at this problem, turns out is was the lifter which requires taking the head off to extract it. My solution is going to be throwing more parts at the problem. My little buddy got his first trip to the salvage yard today.  5.7L Hemi out of a 2020 Ram. This will be fun working in a 2 car garage. Next up is getting Jeep Speed Shop working on a package, and finding the parts to convert to an auto. 
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Jun 25, 2023 02:15
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Well, I thought I got the A/C leaks all addressed, but I think I missed something. I noticed the high side port valve is bubbling a little bit when the cap is off. I haven't seen any other leaks, but I realized that pulling and holding a vacuum wouldn't tell me if the valves are leaking. The system's been short cycling again, and while I was able to give it another top-off, it's only a matter of time before it gets warm again. Not sure if there is a temp fix I can do to keep the r134a in while I get one of those tools that lets me swap out the valve without evacuating the whole system. I really don't think it's the evaporator core, but if replacing the high side valve doesn't help, that's the only other place it could be, and that one is gonna suck to replace. There are lots of these tools available on Amazon... Any recommendations on a decent one? I just want something that works, I don't think I need one of those $120+ sets with several different sizes available. Also, are there higher quality caps I can buy for the A/C ports? I got replacement plastic caps, and while the low side feels very snug and I see no leaks there, the high side doesn't twist all the way down, even though it has the rubber seal inside it. If I twist it too far, it pops back up a thread or two. I can re-tighten it, but I don't want to keep doing that if it's just going to wear out the cap. I tried searching for caps that are made of different materials but it looks like it's just all plastic. DizzyBum fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Jun 26, 2023 |
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Jun 26, 2023 18:09
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I can't give advice on the tool, but I can attest to the evaporator being a huge pain. You can use uv dye or a refrigerant sniffer on the water drain hose to see if your evaporator is leaking. If so, don't bother removing the steering column. It's still a huge job, but you can pull the dash far enough out to get the HVAC box out with the column installed. Be prepared to replace the heater core too if you go down this road.
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Jun 26, 2023 23:58
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Adventures in pentastar JKU ownership. Intermittent no start, high idle. Now it won't start at all. Fuel pump does its thing. Cranks healthily. Tacho bounces during cranking. Live data shows throttle accepting input but no engine speed during cranking. Pull a coil plug, no spark. Auto shutdown relay failed. It supplies high side power to the coils and the injectors. Swapped it with one for the hvac system and drove to a parts store.
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Jun 27, 2023 20:55
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At least it wasn't the TIPM, I'm surprised they actually use a ASD relay still.
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Jun 27, 2023 21:17
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This platform is so loving wacky. There's so much early '00s era parts binned chrysler poo poo strewn about. The headunit is straight up out of 2005 and touts having a 40GB platter hard drive. I too was like ... this has an ASD relay? Like from the 90s? why? The TIPM has fets. What the gently caress Cryco. The term used for tipm failures is 'psychotic'. Fuckin thing can burn up fuel pumps, destroy doorlocks, and deploy airbags when it goes. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Jun 27, 2023 |
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Jun 27, 2023 23:10
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I mean, I'd actually rather a relay than a TIPM, that TIPM goes and you're digging in to repair it or spending hundreds, vs 5 bucks for the relay.
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Jun 27, 2023 23:56
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Murray, my partner's 2003 4.0 Jeep Wrangler, went into the shop and came out with a diagnosis of fragmented #2 piston. We opted out of resolving the issue, as after 225,000 miles it's outlived its purpose of reliable daily driver. As it has been parked in the driveway, I can hear it beckoning. I've done an engine swap before, and with some upcoming time off it sounds like it may be meant to be. I'm trying to decide between two options. I could do an overhaul of existing engine if the block isn't borked. This would be new territory for me, but overhaul kits are affordable and it would be fun. I am concerned that I might be setting myself up to get stuck if any machining is required. I don't have the tools for that. Second option is to throw money at it with a reman unit. I don't want to find out at the end that this chassis has succumbed to some common Jeep problem that ends up turning this whole thing into a huge waste of money and time. What should I be on the lookout for, and what is the best option for a shade tree mechanic that isn't in a hurry?
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Jun 29, 2023 17:58
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Check for soft spots in the frame near the rear lower control arm mounts. If it's soft, send it to the junkyard, auction, or local Jeep partout guy. They rot from inside so jab it with a screwdriver, you can find pics on GIS for exactly where. If you caught it at the mild tapping point of piston disintegration you can likely rebuild it but if you waited too long and the rod was flapping around with no adult supervision, that block is likely done. Pulling the head will tell you which it is. My suggestion would be rebuild it or slam a junkyard block in. Remember that only WJ and 00+ TJ blocks are compatible, the bolt holes on the sides of the block are different on them vs all other 4.0 blocks. Mid 02 and down got a much worse cylinder head that is more likely to crack, 05 and 06 got a different oil pump drive assembly (goes under the cam sensor unit) that was known for the gear splitting in half and losing all oil pressure at full engine speed and load. There's a fix for each (your head should be the 0331 TUPY casting on an 03, so you already own the fix for the mid 02 down engine, which has the plain 0331 instead of the TUPY 0331) but it's up to you. Rebuild will be more expensive than junkyard engine most likely but should permanently fix the problem. All late 4.0s, about 96 and up, were known for cracking pistons eventually, so a junkyard engine might or might not do it again, aftermarket replacement pistons and a mild overbore (if needed) should last much better. If you really want to go nuts now is the time for a stroker crank, rods, and custom pistons to get the pin height right, maybe a cam. But if everything looks good inside other than the piston and the bore isn't obliterated you could literally get a set of aftermarket pistons of the correct size, move the rings over to them from the old ones, and dump it all back in. Keep every part where it came from otherwise plus a bunch of gaskets and just keep going. That's kind of bootleg but it'll work and means you don't have to worry about abrasive dust from a cylinder hone getting on anything.
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Jun 29, 2023 18:36
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kastein posted:If you caught it at the mild tapping point of piston disintegration you can likely rebuild it It had been tapping for a month or two. I could tell it was getting worse so I said it better get looked at before a $300 problem turns into a $3000 problem. This is what the shop sent us - https://imgur.com/H4TE1NS https://imgur.com/O733jSU I'm not familiar enough to know if that's mild or not. I can't imagine that kind of damage not having some impact on the cylinder walls, though. This is a fantastic info dump and I'm super grateful. Time to start disassembling and see what the options are.
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Jun 29, 2023 20:54
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While I expect there would be some scoring from that, it should be well within the limits of a mild overbore. Kastein's fear is that the piston completely grenaded, but yours is still mostly intact. But yeah if the frame isn't swiss cheese I'd tear into that and see what's what.
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Jun 29, 2023 21:03
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That looks like you can probably get away with new pistons and yeehaw the old rings onto them. When you pull it out check if there's any piston material adhered to the cylinder walls, if there isn't you're better off. This (connecting rod no longer connected to piston, even if piston still exists) is where you definitely are due for a bore+hone if it's recoverable at all.  If there's damage to the bore that can be cleaned up by honing you'll want new rings for at least that cylinder. At that point you should be pulling the block and fully disassembling it to wash all the dust off after honing... And might as well rebuild while you're in there. People get away with dingle ball honing in frame and putting it back together but I don't recommend it if you really want to avoid doing it all again. Assuming no need to hone the cylinders or replace the rings, you can do this all in-frame, pull the oil pan, pull the head and intake, remove one rod and piston assembly at a time, remove rings, piston, put new piston on rod, put rings back on, put it right back in where it came out. Those rings are already worn in with that bore so I don't see a reason they wouldn't be fine going right back in. E: re what IOC said, if it's got scoring I agree, though with that little skirt broken off I suspect there will be no scoring and at most maybe a little piston material transfer. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jun 29, 2023 |
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Jun 29, 2023 21:07
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Cat Hatter posted:I can't give advice on the tool, but I can attest to the evaporator being a huge pain. You can use uv dye or a refrigerant sniffer on the water drain hose to see if your evaporator is leaking. If so, don't bother removing the steering column. It's still a huge job, but you can pull the dash far enough out to get the HVAC box out with the column installed. Be prepared to replace the heater core too if you go down this road. Yeah, it's probably about time for me to do that. I should get behind the dash anyway because I've got some console lights burnt out that need a replacement, too. I may bite the bullet and do a full A/C system replacement. It's nearly 25 years old. Lots of the parts (like the compressor and clutch plate) are extra corroded from a coolant leak I had a few years back, so it's really just a matter of time before something else fails. Also, from what I'm reading now, apparently the vacuum test can give a false positive if there's a leaky seal, because the negative pressure pulls the seal tight but then leaks under positive pressure.
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Jun 30, 2023 17:04
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You can get to those lights by only removing a little bit of the dash, but if you're pulling the whole thing anyway might as well change them while you're in there. Just FYI in case your evaporator ends up being fine.
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Jun 30, 2023 18:12
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I ordered a freon sniffer off Amazon which will arrive tomorrow. I want to be absolutely sure I find all the leaks before I commit to tearing everything apart.
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Jun 30, 2023 22:30
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DizzyBum posted:I ordered a freon sniffer off Amazon which will arrive tomorrow. I want to be absolutely sure I find all the leaks before I commit to tearing everything apart. Too bad you (probably) don't live nearby, I have two of them. Amazon delivered one to my neighbor's house. I basically told them to look at the picture they snapped of the delivery and any other picture they had so they sent a new one. My next door neighbor eventually gave me the original like two weeks later.
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Jul 1, 2023 01:28
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I replaced the high-side valve with a brand-new OEM one (just in case the last one I was using was bad), topped off the freon to get cold air back, went for a drive, then did the sniff test. Couldn't find anything. Checked around all the seal points, hoses, high and low ports with the caps on, the compressor, and all around the condenser. Nothing suspicious. I also don't see any new oil stains, which I figured would be a dead giveaway. I was getting some beeping a couple times inside the car when I had the A/C on full blast, but it was sporadic and I couldn't tell if I was getting false positives or not. If I turned the fan speed all the way down and shoved the sensor into the vents, I didn't get anything. I even put the sensor in the evap drain plug and it didn't pick up anything.  Maybe it just turned out to be a lovely high-side valve I had in there. I guess we'll see in a few days.Oh, is it normal to hear a bit of a hissing noise behind the passenger side dashboard for like 4-5 seconds after I turn off the car? I figure it might just be things "settling" after the compressor is turned off, but I wanted to do a sanity check, since that's where the evap core and heater core are. DizzyBum fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Jul 3, 2023 |
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Jul 3, 2023 02:33
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Sigh, nope. Back to short-cycling and warm air after just a few days. So it's probably the evap core. I almost wish it was a more catastrophic leak so I could actually just see it or even smell it. e: Ok, next thing to try. I'm gonna pick up a can of r134a with the UV dye additive, plus a UV pen light. If I can't sniff out the leak, hopefully this will show a smoking gun before I tear out the dash. DizzyBum fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Jul 6, 2023 |
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Jul 6, 2023 14:01
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My 2008 Jeep Liberty is getting the ESP indicator and the "SERV 4WD" light. It gives me codes C1404 and C1403, which seem to indicate I need a new transfer case range position sensor. That's this: https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-sensor-transfer-case-position~68026952aa.html But it's discontinued and I can't find it anywhere. Does anyone know where I could get something like that? Or if there's something else I need?
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Jul 6, 2023 14:06
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NotNut posted:My 2008 Jeep Liberty is getting the ESP indicator and the "SERV 4WD" light. It gives me codes C1404 and C1403, which seem to indicate I need a new transfer case range position sensor. That's this: https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-sensor-transfer-case-position~68026952aa.html If you can't find it online anywhere, you could try finding a salvage yard or pick-and-pull place near you. If you know what makes and models would also have that same sensor, you could pull it off one of those and try that out.
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Jul 6, 2023 15:47
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DizzyBum posted:Sigh, nope. Back to short-cycling and warm air after just a few days. So it's probably the evap core. I almost wish it was a more catastrophic leak so I could actually just see it or even smell it. Do whatever you can to find the leak before you pull the dash. I've had better luck with UV dye than my cheap sniffer for what it's worth. If it does end up being the evaporator you'll need to run it long enough for condensate to flush the dye out the drain, but not so long that it all washes away. Just keep checking while you go around looking at everything else. The downside of dye is that you can't see if the ports are leaking because they'll glow just from you adding the dye, but at least they're easy to sniff.
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Jul 6, 2023 17:50
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Cat Hatter posted:Do whatever you can to find the leak before you pull the dash. I've had better luck with UV dye than my cheap sniffer for what it's worth. If it does end up being the evaporator you'll need to run it long enough for condensate to flush the dye out the drain, but not so long that it all washes away. Just keep checking while you go around looking at everything else. The downside of dye is that you can't see if the ports are leaking because they'll glow just from you adding the dye, but at least they're easy to sniff. So far the ports seem okay (aside from the obligatory dye) and the capped ports aren't making the sniffer go off. I did see a tiny bit of dye around the bolt that holds the lines on the compressor. That could have been old dye from years ago, so I cleaned it off and I'm gonna give it another day before I check again. If it glows again then I might have found something. That's an awfully strange spot for it to leak though, isn't it?
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Jul 7, 2023 03:02
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Seems plausible, there's going to be O-rings between line(s) and the compressor, and there's definitely room for dye to wick up the threads of the bolt.
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Jul 7, 2023 08:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:Seems plausible, there's going to be O-rings between line(s) and the compressor, and there's definitely room for dye to wick up the threads of the bolt. I hope that's it. I didn't see any dye in that tiny gap between the compressor and the, uh, block? where the lines connect to it. But that would be a really easy fix.
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Jul 7, 2023 14:47
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I topped off with more dyed freon this morning, drove for a bit, then checked what I could (which isn't much since I don't have a garage). I caught water from the drain with a paper towel and checked that for dye... Nothing there. The sniffer didn't detect anything from the water either. However, there is a metal piece right below the drain that has a couple holes in it. If I put the sniffer in that empty space, it goes off. I know freon is heavier than air, so maybe there's a chance it was leaking out from the drain and collecting in that space? I don't know if there's a drain in the bottom of that space anywhere. I found a pic of that area I'm talking about (not mine, someone else's). The red part is the metal piece. The purple shows two plastic plugs that are not in place on my XJ, so water and air can get in there.  I'll check under the hood with the UV pen again tonight when it's dark out. DizzyBum fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Jul 7, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2023 17:45
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*Nerobro wonders: is there a thread about the thing I just did..* YUP. So about a month ago, I bought a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Classic. Mechanically and structurly sound, electrically mostly sound, and entirely a mess otherwise. It's legal. It's safe. It has functional A/C. It has a working stereo. The 4wd system works right. But boy, there's a lot to do to it. I'll get photos to share later. .. I just wish it were snowing so I could really screw around.
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Jul 12, 2023 08:35
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I'm gonna have to wait on the A/C repair until my budget is in a better spot later this summer. Feels bad, but I've survived a few summers with no A/C already. Just gotta roll the windows down or drive at night. At this point I am pretty convinced it's the evap core. While I did see that little ring of dye around the bolt before, it hasn't showed up again. I have a few things to do behind the dash so I'll just pull that and make a bigger project out of it when I have more free time. Nerobro posted:*Nerobro wonders: is there a thread about the thing I just did..* YUP. Welcome! Hopefully it's not TOO rusted! 
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Jul 12, 2023 18:47
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Nerobro posted:*Nerobro wonders: is there a thread about the thing I just did..* YUP. I feel like I know you from somewhere. At least you got the best year of XJ. What rear axle does it have?
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Jul 12, 2023 21:10
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DizzyBum posted:I'm gonna have to wait on the A/C repair until my budget is in a better spot later this summer. Feels bad, but I've survived a few summers with no A/C already. Just gotta roll the windows down or drive at night. At this point I am pretty convinced it's the evap core. While I did see that little ring of dye around the bolt before, it hasn't showed up again. I paid $800 to get my AC repaired. If I had done it myself, it would have still been $500. .... I am entirely ok with that exchange. OH boy, rust. The rear part of both rockers have significant holes. But ~still exist~. Which seems to put mine better than at least half the crowd out there. There's half a dozen serious videos about repairing windshield frame rust, so even that's not "weird" At least it's not leaking. Photos tomorrow, I need to get them up on imgur or something. kastein posted:I feel like I know you from somewhere. There's a good chance you do. Paintball? Bicycling? Motorcycles? Hackerspaces? Or here on SA? Well.. I don't know what axle. Got a place I can go look to get clues to what I've got? Should it matter to me? ------------------ So what I know needs to be done: Engine and transmission mounts are shot. The arm rest bracket broke. All the bushings are 23 years old. And the aforementioned rust. It needs a clockspring. And some electrical gremlins chased down. (only the front seat window controls work) Nothing huge. So far, I have the engine and transmission mount. The replacement arm rest bracket. A new tailgate to deal with the crunchy/nasty existing tailgate. A non cracked driver side rear view mirror. Wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor. I'll do some of that tomorrow. Most of what I've done is cleaning it, and just.. using it to see what's really the matter with it. ... I'm going to be about $3500-4000 into it when I'm done. I feel pretty good about that.
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Jul 12, 2023 22:42
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Nerobro posted:
The D35C is a known weak point if you're gonna get any wheelspin going or run much bigger tires.
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Jul 12, 2023 23:32
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Hey all My jeep is still alive somehow and thought I would make you look at it. 
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Jul 13, 2023 18:05
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I'm really glad you've had better luck with AX15 bellhousings on that thing than I have on mine.Nerobro posted:OH boy, rust. The rear part of both rockers have significant holes. But ~still exist~. Which seems to put mine better than at least half the crowd out there. There's half a dozen serious videos about repairing windshield frame rust, so even that's not "weird" At least it's not leaking. Photos tomorrow, I need to get them up on imgur or something. I'm guessing hackerspaces? Especially if it's one in Chicago and my last name seems familiar. On a 99 you're going to have either a d35c or a 29 spline 8.25. the easy way to tell them apart is use the pic posted already... Note that d35c cover edge is just cut off, while 8.25 has a half round stiffening ridge stamped into most of it, except right around the top and bottom center bolts. The d35c also has absolutely no straight edge areas while the 8.25 has a short straight edge along the top and bottom. Not shown in that pic, the 8.25 has two big triangular chunks on the casting at like 5 and 7 o'clock that make the bottom edge roughly flat, they stick out past the cover edge. Some off-road guys cut them off though so this is an unreliable indicator on a heavily modified Jeep and I don't rely on it. 8.25 is *significantly* stronger. Clockspring part number depends on whether you have cruise control or not so check that before buying. Window control issue is probably just that the solder joints for the Dutch Oven Button in the driver window control unit have cracked, assuming that you meant only driver window controls not only front window controls, which is the most common failure mode. You can reflow them and put it right back in if that's the case. If it's actually the front left and front right that work, I'm not sure what would cause that, I've never seen it.
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Jul 13, 2023 18:51
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