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kastein posted:Before you spend a dime on it, check the rear frame rails for rust right where the bumpstops mount over the rear axle. Also around the front LCA mounts on the frame rail and in the midsection where the transmission crossmember bolts on. If a screwdriver will go through any of those places you need to either weld frame stiffeners on (which I would argue isn't worth the time or money if it's that rotten) or resign yourself to the fact that its days are very numbered. I'm not trying to say your Jeep is poo poo here, just that I tried to drag one out of the grave with heroic measures with the welder and it absolutely wasn't worth what I put into it because it was dead and in the junkyard a year later. I bought it knowing it was a pile of poo, you won't be able to make me cry over it. I've already resigned myself to knowing this is gonna be a 5 year or less vehicle. I'll check those points tonight. And find what rear end I have! quote:I'm guessing hackerspaces? Especially if it's one in Chicago and my last name seems familiar. quote:Clockspring part number depends on whether you have cruise control or not so check that before buying. quote:Window control issue is probably just that the solder joints for the Dutch Oven Button in the driver window control unit have cracked, assuming that you meant only driver window controls not only front window controls, which is the most common failure mode. You can reflow them and put it right back in if that's the case. If it's actually the front left and front right that work, I'm not sure what would cause that, I've never seen it.
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Jul 13, 2023 19:17
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Nerobro posted:Been a member at PS:1 since.. uh... 2013? Still paying dues, but not actually been there in a year or two. Dan and I built the big square boats a few years back. That would explain it. I visited a few times over the years IIRC and I was... I think in your IRC channel for a while? Not sure.
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Jul 14, 2023 01:24
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I couldn't wait for my time off. With some incremental progress on nights and weekends, I'm happy to report Murray lives! Thanks to all for the advice, especially kastein. Here's the offending piston, on the precipice of causing some very serious problems.  I went buck wild on disassembly, so I'll need to recharge the ac, and the shop that diagnosed unceremoniously chopped up the back half of the exhaust. I don't blame them. It was junk. I'll find a way to resolve those issues once I can drive it without the feeling of impending doom. The exhaust I could probably bodge, but I'll probably have to ask around or take it in for the ac. I'd like to vacuum check, and I don't trust the little refill cans. Especially for filling it up from empty. I thought this process might convert me into a Jeep guy, but it hasn't sunk in. It is an absolutely delightful little contraption, though, and super satisfying to work on.
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Jul 19, 2023 00:11
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Nice! Glad to hear it. You caught that thing right at the correct point of failure. You can actually get all the tools to do the AC work yourself if you want, usually for 2-300 if you're not buying pro level quality. I've been doing AC for friends and family since 2014 on a mix of Amazon and harbor freight tooling that has more than paid for itself. Check out motronic's AC thread if you haven't already.
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Jul 19, 2023 01:48
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Seconding kastein, if you are capable of this level of engine work you are massively overqualified to do all that can be done to a TJ's HVAC. If you really don't want to buy most of the tools, OReilly will rent you a manifold gauge set and a vacuum pump.
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Jul 19, 2023 01:55
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Also, most small shops buy the little cans of refrigerant anyways.
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Jul 19, 2023 11:17
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a few weeks ago i was under the jeep, happened to grab onto the rear driveshaft, and thought "hmm that feels like too much play." it's a double cardan, so i bought a rebuild kit that comes with all the joints and the ball and socket dealio that makes those work and everything. this weekend i felt like going outside to wrench on the jeep, so i thought i would rebuild the driveshaft. i pulled it apart, and the ujoints look sorta ok  the bearings were still in good shape, plenty of grease, but the seals were getting lovely on some of them the centering ball thing kind of looks like poo poo  and the body of the joint, uh  isn't there supposed to be a pin and spring there, or something? maybe that's what all this stuff that fell out of the joint when i took it apart used to be  so, im pretty sure this shaft is going in the trash instead of being rebuilt. i doubt it's worth getting the end repaired, since it's all smashed up. looking more closely at the output yoke of the TC, i noticed a couple shiny spots. top left first pic, bottom right second pic.   these seem an awful lot like witness marks from the joint trying to make up for too large of an angle. now granted, it could be that these appeared after breakage, when the joint wasn't aligned anymore. but since the CJ5 has a real short wheelbase, and it's got a fair amount of lift (spring over, 1.5" lift YJ springs, a bit extra in the shackles, comfortably fits 35s with plenty to spare) it could just be maxing out the joint. ill see how the clearance looks once i get a new shaft in there. it seems likely ill be dropping the trans mount lower to try to lessen that angle a little bit, unless there are better solutions. i doubt i want to try to clearance anything on the yoke or joint; these are just 1310 joints after all. anyway, i was under there to begin with because the first time i took the jeep out after getting it running and stopping, it ended up like this  the diff was making some bad noises, which turned out to be because of this  i thought at first maybe they weren't tightened so they backed out, but upon pulling one we discovered otherwise  looks like they've been rubbing for a while  anyway, i had to leave the jeep in impromptu storage for a month while we finished our trip and then went back with a trailer to rescue it. i had taped a cover over the open diff, in a hurry, but it didn't survive the elements. that led to the inside of the diff getting all loaded up with sand and crud that blew in there sometime over the month it was sitting out. this weekend i spent an hour or two scraping out the easy to reach stuff. it currently looks like this  i will need to clean it much more thoroughly before rebuilding. if it was just the empty housing, i would spray a bunch of purple power in there, hose it out, and blow it dry. but i dont want to get water in the pinion bearing, so i think i am going to have to stick to brake cleaner or mineral spirits. i was originally going to post just to ask for advice on this, mainly whether this is a sane approach to cleaning out the diff. then i discovered how fuckered the driveshaft was, so that's now included for some bonus laffs. i really want to avoid removing/reinstalling the pinion bearing, because getting the depth and preload set right are beyond my current comfort level. replacing the locker is just one set of shims, so i feel comfortable enough getting into that. i wonder how many cans of brakleen it will take to get all the mojave out.
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Aug 7, 2023 08:25
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Wow that's loving rough. You can probably get that driveshaft rebuilt, all they'll need to do is cut the weld and press and weld a new CV head into it, then rebalance, but it's likely going to cost nearly what a new shaft will. I hate to say it but you might need a new ring and pinion anyways given it was running with the carrier bolts loose. I hope not, but I won't be surprised if those gears are loud as hell if you run them again. Also, bear in mind you can definitely pull the pinion and put it back in, just make sure you save all the pinion preload shims when you pull it out, and use a new yoke seal and pinion nut going back together. Torque the new pinion nut to spec and the pinion depth should be back where it was. And that way you'll be able to actually hose that housing out properly.
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Aug 7, 2023 09:19
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Raluek posted:
Gas or kerosene would probably be the cheap move to cleaning that
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Aug 7, 2023 13:19
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Use kerosene, it's less likely to kill you.
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Aug 7, 2023 17:55
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kastein posted:Wow that's loving rough. You can probably get that driveshaft rebuilt, all they'll need to do is cut the weld and press and weld a new CV head into it, then rebalance, but it's likely going to cost nearly what a new shaft will. they LOOK ok, at least the ring gear does. those bolts hold the two halves of the locker together, not ring to carrier, so the ring gear should have been accurately located the whole time. i commented that the screw heads looked like they had been rubbing a while, but it didn't make any noise until i tried to do a throttle-assisted u-turn in some loose gravel, i assume the locker locked as the tires lost traction, and then it started making the bad noises. it probably traveled like 100 feet like that before we pulled it apart. the two halves of the locker case look kinda chewed up, and one of the spider gears has a freshly shorn tooth, but i don't see any evidence of pitting, gouging, or anything like that on the ring gear. good point on the shims. as long as it has shims and not a crush sleeve thing, i should be able to take it out. i am just pretty gun-shy about diff stuff since i have never done one before. pinion nut is one-time use? Cat Hatter posted:Use kerosene, it's less likely to kill you. ok, but whats the upside?
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Aug 8, 2023 05:23
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Raluek posted:ok, but whats the upside? A spark and jeep shopping. Under torque and coast since those bolts are now out the carrier will not have the rigidity it once had. That'll wreck a gearset and bearings. Even if it didn't appear such, we do not know. This thing turns gear leveraged engine power ninety degrees. With the double cardan bearing and all the locker shenanigans, throw a r&p and new bearings in there too. Sorry it all sucks but uh yeah. Doing it two or three times really sucks. I understand being cheap or on a budget, unless you're really good at reading bearing or gear surface wear.... don't. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Aug 8, 2023 |
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Aug 8, 2023 05:27
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Enhance! Is it just me or are those splines twisted on the driver's side axle?
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Aug 8, 2023 06:02
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cursedshitbox posted:A spark and jeep shopping. dammit, this is quickly spiraling from "slap it back together", which is where i want to be, to "learn an actual skill and do it the hard way" which is absolutely not. beats taking it to a shop, but every additional thing is going to add months to its recovery. IOwnCalculus posted:Enhance! ive been successfully ignoring that so far, thank you very much  e: while it does look like that in person as well, maybe it's just more shiny in the areas that were meshing with the spider gears. could just be an optical illusion? guess ill measure it when i pull it for cleaning Raluek fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Aug 8, 2023 |
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Aug 8, 2023 06:28
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That's definitely twisted but not really that bad. I've seen em last years like that. Honestly at this point you are going to be doing everything about a gear job except for pinion depth anyways, since you likely need to replace that locker. That means resetting carrier side to side offset with carrier bearing shims. That looks to be a Dana pinion gear given the sequence number and/or recommended pinion depth setting hand etched into the head, so doing gears shouldn't be too bad. From what I've seen the recommendation is generally to start with the same pinion depth shim pack that came out and work from there, as there's more variation in the housing machining than the gear hobbing. If you don't wanna buy a few hundred in specialized bearing pullers, buy an extra inner pinion race and 2 extra carrier bearings of the same manufacturer and ideally lot as the ones you'll be using for final assembly and make setup bearings out of them by honing them out till they're slip fit instead of press fit. It's really not bad other than that, I'm sure you can do it. You'll want a mic for measuring shim thickness (vernier type, not slide caliper) and the usual assortment of torque wrenches plus a dial indicator. People recommend an inch pound torque wrench of the dial or flex beam type for measuring pinion bearing preload running torque but I've been happier with a fish scale, a piece of string, and a 8in wooden disc drilled for pinion yoke strap bolts, I read the scale while pulling slowly and evenly and then multiply by 4 to get inch pounds. Harbor freight is fine for the dial indicator and mic. At least imo, and none of my setups have failed yet. I use their older "digital" (it used one of those old style odometer gear counters  ) mic but I'm sure their actual digital mic is just as good if you don't want to read a vernier, just remember to take the batteries out when you're not using it for more than a couple days.The splines there are definitely more shiny where it's been touching but don't worry about that, that's very normal. You could get away with slapping bolts in the locker but don't count on it. You may also get away with just replacing the locker, but don't be surprised if you don't or the gears are super noisy after.
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Aug 8, 2023 17:36
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Can a non mechanically inclined lurker who does nothing but oil changes ask a really dumb question? What's the cost to rebuild that mess yourself versus getting something new/rebuilt already? Is it scarcity of parts?
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Aug 8, 2023 21:18
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On most vehicles, especially if the rear end was stock, you'd be right; blow up a stock 8.8 in the back of a Ranger or Explorer and a junkyard axle swap is only a few hundred bucks. This is the intersection of an axle already modified (regeared and locked), and the Dana 44 being a desirable axle to upgrade other Jeeps that came with weaker axles. You can get them used but to get one regeared and locked it might actually cost more than even paying a shop to set that axle back up with new parts.
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Aug 9, 2023 00:44
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Oh gotcha, it's a non-stock upgrade, thanks. Back to lurking! (I just got my mailed notice today of a second GC recall they can't fix yet. The magnetic material attached to the reluctor wheel can come off and cause stalls. Just pile it on top of my Bosch hpfp from over a year ago that can possibly grenade itself I guess.)
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Aug 9, 2023 03:20
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kastein posted:That's definitely twisted but not really that bad. I've seen em last years like that. oh yeah the locker is for sure being replaced. we pulled the original on the side of the road because we were originally thinking on those same lines -- what if we just get the broken bolts extracted, then throw new hardware in it, and hit the road? but the more we looked at it, the more damage to the locker (from the two halves sliding against each other, looks like) we found, then the final nail was the broken spider. plus they're left hand thread bolts, good luck finding those an ox locker finally showed up yesterday. this was an adventure unto itself. i did a bunch of research into what locker system i wanted, decided on ox, then placed an order like two months ago. i bought it through morris 4x4, they seemed pretty reputable, and had a bit of a discount. well, the locker went from in stock to back-ordered, then the backorder was extended, then they refunded my money. i sent an email asking wtf, then eventually found out that that distributor had just gone out of business. i guess i can choose 'em. so this time i bought straight from ox, which was fairly painless. anyway, i have been somewhat reluctant to touch the pinion because that turns the setup into a 2D problem. if i left the pinion alone and just replaced the locker, i only have to deal with one dimension until the pattern looks good. i was going to measure the bearing-to-ring-seat distance on the old and new locker, adjust the shims as needed, send it, then measure the pattern. i figured i would give myself two chances (i.e. original attempt plus one redo) before sacrificing a set of bearings into a setup set. although now that i think about it, i could use the original ones off of the old locker for that, and not have to buy another set just to grind em out. i have two main motivations for not wanting to change the gearset. the dumb one is that it feels bad to replace good parts if i dont have to, the old r&p look fine. the slightly more defensible one (but still probably dumb) is project scope creep. i would love to get this back together in time to get at least a little late summer wheeling in, and i am very intimidated by axle gears too. probably second only to automatic transmissions. that said, i am not completely bull-headed. if i did re-use them, and that did end up causing a problem, is it likely to just be noisy and wear the gears quickly? or is it likely to lead to a breakage and wiping out a bunch of other parts? if it's a matter of potentially doing the job twice, that might not be so bad. if i have to scrap everything and start over with all new parts cause i tried to cut a corner, that's something else, and i am more willing to take my time on this to avoid that fate, if it's somewhat likely. Evil SpongeBob posted:Can a non mechanically inclined lurker who does nothing but oil changes ask a really dumb question? What's the cost to rebuild that mess yourself versus getting something new/rebuilt already? Is it scarcity of parts? fyi, ive spent about $1500 on the locker parts and driveshaft rebuild parts so far. since the driveshaft might be a lost cause, ill probably spend another $200 on a used shaft which i may or may not rebuild depending on how it looks and feels. if i end up doing the gears too, thats another $500ish. there might be a couple hundred bucks of new tools involved, but that doesn't count. i figure, having a shop fix all this would be about another grand on top. like IOC said, if i was going to source another axle, it would be about $1k for the base axle because D44s are desirable, and then it wouldn't have the gears to match my front axle or the locker i want, so i would then have to spend the same money setting it up. but don't think i didn't consider it, lol. plus, probably whatever they came out of wouldn't have the right perches so there'd be some project happening there too. although if a set of waggy d44s came my way i wouldn't exactly complain, they're a few inches wider and i could ditch the front 30.
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Aug 9, 2023 05:38
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If you did reuse the ring and pinion, since it's going to be an ox locker, worst case is (looking at the ox locker parts website) $277+s&h for the two carrier halves, and you'd just drop all your internals into that and start over with a new ring and pinion. And that's very unlikely. The more likely outcome would be having to disassemble it and run all the parts through the parts washer to get the ring gear and bearing slurry off of them before reassembly with new ring and pinion, it's exceedingly rare that just a ring and pinion wearing badly after an incident like yours will destroy the carrier. More likely it just shits glitter all over and in it and maybe the pinion bearings get wrecked and the pinion comes and says hi to the carrier, but even so, normally you can just grind the tooth mark burrs off the carrier and carry on with your life. Can't guarantee it but it's most likely to be fine. The big thing is when you install the ring gear on the carrier, make absolutely loving certain that you clean all packing oil off the ring gear mounting surface as well as the back of the ring gear and the threaded holes using solvent, then do the same to the bolts, let it dry fully, and assemble it torquing everything to spec with red loctite. The ring gear coming loose on the carrier and rubbing against it due to poor assembly practice is a much more common failure and will definitely damage the carrier.
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Aug 9, 2023 08:37
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Anyone here ever yank the transfer case and transmission out of a CJ-7? Mine are leaking more than I'd like and I'm thinking it's time to get them re-built. I don't have a lift, just a floor jack and stands. Are the bolts accessible with a combination of shifter cover removal for the top side and a creeper on the floor for the bottom? It's an '84 base model with a T5 and Dana 300. I know it sounds like a dumb question but all the YouTube videos I’ve watched on the subject depict a frame off restoration where everything is easy to access. I never did a thread on it, been wrenching on it for a few years. Would I be making GBS threads up the thread by posting some pictures/description of the work done here? Itchy_Grundle fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Aug 9, 2023 |
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Aug 9, 2023 15:37
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:The D35C is a known weak point if you're gonna get any wheelspin going or run much bigger tires. I looked last night, and now i'm looking at this chart, and i'm doubting myself. I should have taken a photo. I'm pretty sure it's the Ford 8.8. I don't plan on running bigger tires. Narrower and smaller if anything. I'm looking at 12hole injectors for the fuel economy benefits. If I do that before I drive it across the country, it might pay for itself in the first drive! Hah.
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Aug 9, 2023 18:13
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If it's been 8.8 swapped already then that axle will survive any sane tire you'll put under an XJ.
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Aug 9, 2023 18:20
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Ford 8.8 was never factory, so either it was swapped or it's not that. Don't bother with the 12 hole injectors. Most of them are counterfeit poo poo with a staggering failure rate (but the defenders note the seller will give you more counterfeit crap if the first ones were junk), and most of them also have the wrong hole pattern designed for 2 intake valve heads and will spray fuel directly at the intake port walls. It also does jack poo poo for fuel economy despite what all the yokels on every Jeep group will tell you, I've gotten 23mpg highway out of a 250k mile 4.0 fully loaded before with factory 1 hole injectors.
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Aug 9, 2023 21:01
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Raluek posted:plus they're left hand thread bolts, good luck finding those Hah, I had a gut reaction of "that looks like barstow" when I scrolled by this pic and saw the traincars + Mojave sky. You have a place out there? My friends and I have often driven through there and made bold predictions/threats to buy real estate on the merits of it being the next Joshua Tree for LA hipsters. King Bolt Co. in Covina is a bit of a drive from there, but keep it in your notes for future reference. It's a cool store.
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Aug 12, 2023 00:48
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Hah, I had a gut reaction of "that looks like barstow" when I scrolled by this pic and saw the traincars + Mojave sky. You have a place out there? My friends and I have often driven through there and made bold predictions/threats to buy real estate on the merits of it being the next Joshua Tree for LA hipsters. nah, i'm out in the bay area. we were just out that way to run the mojave trail with some friends who hadn't done it before. i say that like ive done it more than once before this year, lol. technically not my first rodeo! good call on the fastener place. if we were going to pause the trip an extra day or two to try to get it back together, that looks like an ideal resource. lol at their website though 
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Aug 12, 2023 06:59
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Raluek posted:good call on the fastener place. if we were going to pause the trip an extra day or two to try to get it back together, that looks like an ideal resource. lol at their website though Lol yes, that's how you know they're good. Strong Hank Hill vibes. If you enjoy the Mojave trail and ever get out a bit further southeast, check out Camino del Diablo in AZ. Drove it last year and it was really cool.
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Aug 12, 2023 16:53
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Lol yes, that's how you know they're good. Strong Hank Hill vibes. yeah exactly. i don't trust companies whose websites are too good, their priorities are wrong. nice, will add to the list. we've done mojave the last two years, so next year we're going to do somewhere else in the southwest deserts. gotta fix my jeep first tho lol
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Aug 12, 2023 21:07
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kastein posted:Ford 8.8 was never factory, so either it was swapped or it's not that. Dana 35c. Because. whoops. I need to figure out the clunking noise I hear. EDIT: Now i'm not so sure. hahah. Edit again: It's also leaking, just a little, so this matters now. Ok, did work on the truck today. Finally fixed the rear hatch latch. The rear hatch works properly now. Also replaced the center console support. The stock one came out in five pieces. In general, my fuel economy has beaten the EPA rating. Edit.. again again. The window switches are $19, new on the jungle site. That's better than my time to reflow them. *ordered* Nerobro fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Aug 13, 2023 |
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Aug 13, 2023 03:36
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welp. pulled the ring gear off the old locker bits for cleaning, and the carrier bearing just... fell off? isn't that supposed to be pressed on there? maybe someone forgot to swap out their setup bearings for real ones. looks like the bearing spun on the carrier and trashed the shims. i figured i might as well pull the pinion, since you're right ken i can just put it back in the same way it came out and im no worse off than i started. at least that was the plan when i started pulling it apart. im glad i did, cause there's chunks (of shim?) in this bearing too.  so at this point, the gears look fine, but theres so much else wrong that i basically can't trust anything was done right. while it looks like everything self destructed except the gears, i will be replacing everything else so might as well just do it all new. whats the go-to gear mfg these days? ive heard that yukon has been enshittified in the past couple decades. the stuff that's in there now is dana/spicer, i think, and they made the axle in the first place.
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Aug 14, 2023 10:45
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Ouch, that sucks. I have Yukons in my TJ and the only concerning thing I've had with them was the sheer volume of poo poo in the first oil drain post-regear, but the shop told me to expect that. 500 break-in miles and it was filthy.
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Aug 14, 2023 18:18
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Wow that blows. Yeah I would be redoing it all at this point and make sure you REALLY clean that housing out. I would pull all bearing races including the wheel bearing races before cleaning. Make sure your carrier bearing races didn't spin against the housing as well as the bearings spinning on the carrier. If they spun in the housing under the bolted on caps or against the faces they back up to... It is new housing time before you spend another minute on that thing. I've seen carrier bearings spin on carriers before when they were not setup bearings accidentally left in place. Not sure what caused it TBH. The one time I had it happen, I discovered it too late to do anything else and simply staked the poo poo out of the carrier journal, applied loctite bearing cement, and pressed the new bearing on like I saw nothing. I do NOT recommend this, it was only done in my case because it was a common as dirt 3.55 geared high pinion Dana 30 in an MJ and I'd driven it there and needed to drive it home. If it blows up I will buy another one for $130 and slap my shafts and locker in it.
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Aug 14, 2023 22:48
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yeah the housing still looks good, as far as i can tell. looks like it has its stock machining on it. still covered in mojave, but it doesnt look or feel hosed up. i do have new wheel bearings and stuff, so yeah good call on pulling the races out so there are no corners for shavings to hide. i am considering pulling the axle off the jeep completely, so i can flip it upside down and de-gunk that pocket between the inner and outer pinion bearing. i found a piece of spider gear in there yesterday, so it must have gone up and over via those vent slots. guess im learning how to do all this the hard way! 
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Aug 15, 2023 04:47
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I've got a 99 XJ, the 6 cylinder. It's been parked for over a year, no problem when I parked it. Now when I connect the battery (brand new, charged) the running lights kick on and the engine will crank then turn off, then everything shuts off - then lights come on, engine cranks. In a a loop. Ignition switch is off. If I insert key and try to crank while this is going on, nothing happens , the weird loop is unaffected. Anyone seen this before? Kinda weird.
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Aug 15, 2023 23:32
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Are you connecting the battery the right way around? I'm guessing yes but want to make sure. If it's not that, this sounds like a 90s remote start (which you may not even know about) that has lost its mind. Possibly interior fuse panel corrosion but I would put my bets on old remote start insanity. Remove it and repair any damage to the harness from install - maybe a few corroded wires to resplice as well as reconnecting the starter trigger wire. IIRC it is a 12 gauge yellow wire on 99 and should be the only one cut in half and spliced to two separate wires on the remote unit or a relay instead of just tapped.
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Aug 16, 2023 00:18
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No remote start, has remote door unlocks, but no remote start on the ignition.
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Aug 16, 2023 00:37
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If I had a dollar for every time I'd heard that, I could buy a good dinner. Seriously, look up under the dash on the driver side near the steering column on both sides and I bet you find one that wasn't listed when you bought it. It's incredibly common for it to not be mentioned when cars are sold and the previous owner lost the keyfob, you may well not even be the first buyer to not know about it. I found one exactly this way on my first Subaru in fact. Previous two owners had no idea it was there. I removed it and never looked back.
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Aug 16, 2023 01:54
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I'll be damned, yeah, pulled the dash apart, wires are cut and spliced and there's some small black plastic box wired in there. There's not enough light for me to gently caress with it now, but I'll start on it in the morning. I owe you a buck.  That definitely shouldn't be there. I got a variety box of pretty nice butt connectors somewhere, ill dig it out tomorrow, get that all cleaned up. PadreScout fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Aug 16, 2023 |
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Aug 16, 2023 02:29
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Yep, that's it. Make sure you trace the small wires till you find the relay they added, there's no way those wires are large enough for the unit to have an integral relay so it's... Somewhere, probably taped or ziptied to the harness, and those wires will lead you right to it.
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Aug 16, 2023 05:55
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 15:17 |
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cleaned up the housing bearing caps today just to make sure they've survived. the machined surfaces look fine i think. driver side (this is the side with the spun bearing)  those little marks don't catch a finger nail. as far as i can tell, they're just visual. looks like the factory machining to me, an idiot.  passenger side  passenger again  the one thing slightly hosed up with this one is that the locker bolts, after they broke off and backed out, were starting to machine the side of this cap a little bit. it's not deep, but it's slightly mushroomed over the edge.  i think i can fix this with a file so it's flat again while being careful not to change the "deck height" of this surface. tell me if im dreaming.  mainly just posting this as a sanity check, since i am about to order the next batch of parts this week.
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Aug 16, 2023 06:55
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