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Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




For flattening that surface with minimal distortion, I might suggest a bench oil stone, like the kind used for knife sharpening along with some 10W or WD40 as lube. There are a few little wiped looking marks on the first bore, might just take a dowel or steel pin/shaft and some 320/400 or finer grit sandpaper and see if they are high.

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Yeah I'd use a flat stone to fix that. If the other end of the same cap is undamaged I would cover it with a thin piece of poly sheeting (like a cut up blister pack, as thin as possible without risking grinding through it) to prevent removing any material from it, and make sure you hold that cap nice and vertical so you aren't grinding it flat to the plane that touches all the high points first, you want to only grind down the deformed area if you know what I am trying to say here.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
ah good idea, i have a diamond stone i use for sharpening that would work well for that. might take all day, but that's better than going hog wild with something too coarse.

PadreScout
Mar 14, 2008

kastein posted:

Yep, that's it. Make sure you trace the small wires till you find the relay they added, there's no way those wires are large enough for the unit to have an integral relay so it's... Somewhere, probably taped or ziptied to the harness, and those wires will lead you right to it.



I believe I got it all. Key works as expected, I had a few random wires I think must go to the ..remote antenna? But I can chase those out. The only problem now is my ABS light is on, wasn't previously. So either a module failed in the many months it was sitting, or it'll sort itself out with a little driving around.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
Go get up to speed and slam on the brakes to see if it works.

PadreScout
Mar 14, 2008

Cat Hatter posted:

Go get up to speed and slam on the brakes to see if it works.

Instructions unclear, Jeep hosed a lightpole.


I do plan to take it out, I just need to find a place to stash my truck. Kinda the main problem why that Jeep hadn't been getting driven.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...
Symptom: recently my 3.6L has been running hotter. Temp line hovering between 1/2 and 3/4 instead of nailed to the 1/2 line. Coolant temp running in the 230's, and fan running a lot. This is new.

My coolant in the overflow bottle has been constant at mid-way between min and max. In retrospect, too constant.

Decided to check the radiator directly, it took about a liter of coolant to top up. Ran it at 4000 rpm for a while, temp never cracked 220. Stopped, and loud gurgling from the engine, and lots of coolant leaking around the radiator cap. No change in overflow bottle level.

Drove to parts store for new radiator cap. Checked overflow tube (blew until reservoir bubbled, it wasn't blocked or showing a leak), new cap on. Running at old, correct temps, but still, no reservoir change.

Could it really have just been the cap?

DizzyBum
Apr 16, 2007


torgeaux posted:

Symptom: recently my 3.6L has been running hotter. Temp line hovering between 1/2 and 3/4 instead of nailed to the 1/2 line. Coolant temp running in the 230's, and fan running a lot. This is new.

My coolant in the overflow bottle has been constant at mid-way between min and max. In retrospect, too constant.

Decided to check the radiator directly, it took about a liter of coolant to top up. Ran it at 4000 rpm for a while, temp never cracked 220. Stopped, and loud gurgling from the engine, and lots of coolant leaking around the radiator cap. No change in overflow bottle level.

Drove to parts store for new radiator cap. Checked overflow tube (blew until reservoir bubbled, it wasn't blocked or showing a leak), new cap on. Running at old, correct temps, but still, no reservoir change.

Could it really have just been the cap?

Yep, that can happen sometimes. Maybe a bad seal on the old cap?

No significant reservoir change is okay, iirc. As long as you know you topped up the coolant above the highest point in the system and got as much air out as you could. Just make sure you check the coolant overflow level when it's cold to ensure it's not overflowing or emptying out.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

DizzyBum posted:

Yep, that can happen sometimes. Maybe a bad seal on the old cap?

No significant reservoir change is okay, iirc. As long as you know you topped up the coolant above the highest point in the system and got as much air out as you could. Just make sure you check the coolant overflow level when it's cold to ensure it's not overflowing or emptying out.

Thanks!

White Light
Dec 19, 2012

I'm deciding between purchasing a Jeep Wrangler and Rubicon by December this year! Aside from the price difference, what's the main difference between the two models? They both look very similar and I'd like to better educate myself. I'd love to get one in this shade of blue if I could:



I am excited cause Jeeps are cool beans :3:

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

White Light posted:

I'm deciding between purchasing a Jeep Wrangler and Rubicon by December this year! Aside from the price difference, what's the main difference between the two models? They both look very similar and I'd like to better educate myself. I'd love to get one in this shade of blue if I could:



I am excited cause Jeeps are cool beans :3:
  • If you don't want to off-road at all, just buy the Wrangler.
  • If you want to drive in mild off-road situations (I.e., you're not rock crawling or planning to tackle very difficult off-road trails - fire roads are fine, moderate difficulty off-road trails are entirely doable), buy the Wrangler.
  • If you want to do serious off-roading but not do any work to get it capable, buy the Rubicon.
  • If you want to mod it mildly and off-road, Rubicon
  • If you want to build the crap out of it to do crazy off-roading stuff, Wrangler. (The Rubicon stuff is good, but further upgrades are still possible, and why pay more for the stuff you're going to replace? This point is extremely arguable.)
The gist is that the Rubicon has a whole bunch of off-road goodies already on it - lockers, disconnectable swaybars, lift, better transfer case, bigger tires. If you are purely driving onroad, there's very little value to any of this. Fire roads, you don't need this stuff. Rock crawling, hard trails, mud, this stuff will keep you from getting stuck in a lot of situations.

Also, one last mention: If you are planning on this being an on-road only thing, drive it first. Even the Wrangler / non-Rubicon has a lot of compromises that make it better off-road and worse on-road. They're noisy as hell on highways, have some interesting handling characteristics, and just generally aren't designed with highway comfort in mind.

They are, however, decidedly "cool beans".

GentlemanofLeisure
Aug 27, 2008

Krakkles posted:

Also, one last mention: If you are planning on this being an on-road only thing, drive it first. Even the Wrangler / non-Rubicon has a lot of compromises that make it better off-road and worse on-road. They're noisy as hell on highways, have some interesting handling characteristics, and just generally aren't designed with highway comfort in mind.

I was in a Chick-Fil-A drive thru and the kid at the window told me my jeep was cool and asked if it was nice inside. I think I told him something like "No, it doesn't have any luxuries aside from power windows & locks. The nav screen is old and slow. It rides crappy on the road. But it's fun and I can drive it down Right of Ways without worrying about getting stuck and I think it's cool!" I think I changed his mind on Jeeps, but it's the truth! That was a few years ago and I still think it's accurate, and I still have the Jeep :-)

SlowBloke
Aug 14, 2017
Here is a jeep most of you goons will never see




MY23 Jeep Avenger BEV

Interiors are made with trashbin plastics and a handful of vinyl covered areas.
I can't say anything about range or performance as the dealer won't let me test drive it until I pay up the remaining 35k€ bill.
From the limited reviews (only one car mag has done tests thanks to the new fiat 600 stealing interest), it's not shabby with a 0-100 of 9s, far speedier of my current Suzuki shitbox(which to its defense is 4wd so i need to let off some slack).

Edit:



Drived it a little, it's a new experience being a BEV but it's decent. The driver aid suite is a bit unrefined but still workable. Performance is good, even with the limited horsepower it has, it will still kick you in the rear end when you drop the hammer down. This is the first car I drove where the speed limiter has a real purpose.

SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Sep 11, 2023

DizzyBum
Apr 16, 2007


Lots of fun things happening to my XJ over the past few months:

- A cracked motor mount! They've never been swapped out so I guess it's about time one of them failed. Got new ones plus a replacement transmission mount, so I just gotta find time to install them.

- Rear wiper stopped working! Looks like it's time to finally rewire the rear hatch. The wires at the flex point are disintegrating. I have to solder and shrink-tube them. The rear wiper motor could be burned out too, but I won't know until I fix the wiring.

- Radio isn't working in cold weather anymore! I just get static until the engine gets up to operating temps. It's not an issue in warmer temps. Apparently this can happen if there's a failing solder joint somewhere. This might just be the radio itself, which is fine, since I've been wanting a modern radio anyway.

I've put the evap core fix on hold until next spring. Very little point in doing it now. I'll be in a much better financial spot by then, and then I can do a bunch of work in April.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

DizzyBum posted:

Lots of fun things happening to my XJ over the past few months:
My rustbucket XJ is doing.. pretty good too. Not that it gets driven much. so far it's just been a loaner car? It's saved several peoples derrieres.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
Planning out some projects to clean up my Jeep. It's a 99 TJ Sahara, 4.0 5-speed. My dad bought it new when I was in high school, and I bought it from him 12ish years ago. It's pretty much all original, about 120k miles. Never been abused or offroaded hard, but it's 24 years old and shows it in some regards. It gets to live in a garage now and hasn't been a daily driver for a long time, so I want to start chipping away at some maintenance and minor upgrades.

I'm thinking to start with the interior, which should be all DIY-able. The factory carpet all got pulled and tossed a few years back due to some water leaks getting it a bit nasty. There's a few spots of minor surface rust on the tub and some chips and minor rust on things like seat mounts and brackets. Current plan in my head is to work in sections and pull out seats, center console, seat brackets, seat belts, etc, clean the parts and tub, treat and paint any rust, and reinstall everything. Then I'll put in new carpet, seat covers, rollbar covers, and new speakers in the dash and soundbar.

The one headache I'm anticipating is the bolts being pretty well stuck in the tub. I've got some Kroil I can hit them with if needed. Anyone have any advice on other issues I may encounter disassembling or reassembling, or parts that may end need more repair or just replacement? Any components that are going to be more trouble than they're worth to pull that I should leave in place? What else am I not considering here?

Then the question is what carpet to put in. I've seen Bedrug recommended a lot, but it doesn't come in tan, which I'd really like to stick with. I'm not super concerned with sound or heat dampening, beyond if the heat will gently caress up the carpet. If anything I'd probably just put some kind of heat barrier over the trans tunnel, but I'd love to hear any advice or experience with all of this.

McDeth
Jan 12, 2005
So one of the first things I did when I got my 2013 Wrangler Rubicon was to replace the woefully underpowered factory headlights with JW speaker LED headlights. Overall, I'd say it's one of the best investments I've ever made on my money pit. Recently however I've noticed that the passenger side headlight has started to flicker, and today I verified that it's not an issue with the JW Speaker unit itself, but rather an issue with the connector on the wiring harness end of the headlight adapter.

How would I go about replacing this connector? Are there kits out there that i can buy the connector with?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

So I've got a friend with a 2016 JKU with what turns out to be a problem nearly everyone seems to have, have had, or will have: ABS controller is bad. He ordered one 6+ months ago. There's still no update on if or when it's going to come in. I'm 99% sure can code a new or used one to the car for him with my scanner (Autel Maxicom 808). It's even the last year before you need to fork over $50 per vin for OEM activation.

He needs a 68259556AD. Does anyone know of any of these that actually exist? Or has anyone cracked one open to fix it? I'm wondering if they have the same problems as the late 90s/early 2000s ATE units that you could fix by reflowing the solder joints on all the power and relay connectors.

I've done all the googling and nobody I'd consider reputable is claiming to fix these things or have any reman or aftermarket units.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I have no idea where to get one but I mean, I'd crack it open and see what's going on, it sounds like you have nothing to lose.

There is a previous revision one on Amazon for 500 used right now (same part number but AC at the end), that is a bit of a gamble but might get it working again. In Chrysler land the letter revs are almost always software or firmware update only, but not always.

Edit: the AD version is listed on summit racing with a ship date of the 27th but I'm guessing you already know that and checked with them and that's the computer making things up to get you to backorder it.

kastein fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Dec 16, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

kastein posted:

I have no idea where to get one but I mean, I'd crack it open and see what's going on, it sounds like you have nothing to lose.

That's kinds where I'm at. Even if I kill it I can just put it back on and his jeep is just as broken as it was before.

kastein posted:

There is a previous revision one on Amazon for 500 used right now (same part number but AC at the end), that is a bit of a gamble but might get it working again. In Chrysler land the letter revs are almost always software or firmware update only, but not always.

Oh lol, you have to do all kinds of things I don't want to do to vin pair the wrong revision (of any module) with the ECU on a chrico of this vintage. They just don't "let" you unless you start hex editing. Not my jeep, not leaving a lump in my barn if this gets f'd up.

And he's tried summit and all the parts places with mopar in the name, which is really just like 4 with multiple reseller front ends. Even the three that still list it as in stock can't get it if you actually call them. There are also some on ebay for $800.......not a gamble I'm going to advise him to make. Who knows what shows up.

The Royal Nonesuch
Nov 1, 2005

For the record - if anyone's JK starts chiming and flashing "HOT OIL" along with the traction control and downhill assist lights on a cold start (particularly in cold weather), your K5 relay is bad:



I replaced it with a Standard RY1757 from O'Reilly that fixed it immediately. That relay powers the TCU, and apparently the HOT OIL and warning lights are Chrysler's way of letting you know something is wrong. Worth keeping a spare in your glovebox for ~$20. Simple fix, but sure freaked me out. The Jeep still started, but there was a bad whining noise coming from the transmission and I'd hate to limp it off a trail like that.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...
Honey, I cleared off the Jeep and I'm heading to the grocery store!

Ready to Drive by B. B., on Flickr

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
The Jeep, with 70 thousand miles on it started to eat its power steering pump. It was louder than any Ford unit I've ever encountered.
2/10 beer job on the Pentastar. Took maybe 45 mins start to finish. The hydraulic tensioner is a bear. It's stout enough to crack my elbow in ways that don't sound good.

Button it back up. Still howls. Ah dammit.
Couple hundred miles later the new pump noise is gone.

Self healing Jeeps make me uneasy.

It kind of looks like a ZF clone. I'm gonna do a teardown of the old one to see if there's ways I can improve it. Because at $350 bucks and 70k-miles, that's kinda terrible. The one on my million mile ford is original, loud as it may be.

Hasselblad
Dec 13, 2017

My dumbass opinions are only outweighed by my racism.

No one forgot that I exist to defend violent cops, champion chaining down immigrants, and have trash opinions on cooking.

cursedshitbox posted:

The Jeep, with 70 thousand miles on it started to eat its power steering pump. It was louder than any Ford unit I've ever encountered.
2/10 beer job on the Pentastar. Took maybe 45 mins start to finish. The hydraulic tensioner is a bear. It's stout enough to crack my elbow in ways that don't sound good.

Button it back up. Still howls. Ah dammit.
Couple hundred miles later the new pump noise is gone.

Self healing Jeeps make me uneasy.

It kind of looks like a ZF clone. I'm gonna do a teardown of the old one to see if there's ways I can improve it. Because at $350 bucks and 70k-miles, that's kinda terrible. The one on my million mile ford is original, loud as it may be.

The nice thing about my TJ is that pretty much everything is a couple beers away from me fixing myself, rather than handing it over to a dealership (or worse) for them to gently caress with.

The most difficult this was finally fixing the death wobble, which many thousands of dollars later ended up being a simple squishy bushing in the track bar.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Yeah it's almost always the track bar or steering linkages. I've seen it be other things but those are the top contenders for sure.

Including the Jeep I loving put a track bar*, balljoints*, tie rod ends, steering box*, steering intermediate shaft*, wheel bearings*, steering stabilizer*, and shocks* on.

* These parts were actually bad, they just didn't fix the death wobble.

The loving death wobble was from the old worn track bar, followed by the new replacement one I put on that wasn't correct for my year despite the manufacturer saying it was, resulting in the taper stud at the frame end flapping around in the bracket while I chased my goddamn tail for SEVEN loving YEARS replacing other bad parts that still didn't fix it.

Man I hate death wobble.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
Coincidentally, the power steering pump in my old WK Grand Cherokee seemingly died this past Friday on my way home from work when I was two turns from home. No assist and any steering input (or the hydraulically powered radiator fan kicking on) makes the pump sound like I'm trying to turn the wheel past the end of the lock. Can't fault the pump too much though since it might have 200,000+ miles on it. Going to try and grab one from the junkyard this weekend but that pump/reservoir setup is only found on Hemis and my yard almost exclusively has base model Jeeps.

I'd still probably rather pay dealership prices for a new pump than try and wrestle that steering rack out though.

Evil SpongeBob
Dec 1, 2005

Not the other one, couldn't stand the other one. Nope nope nope. Here, enjoy this bird.
Woohoo, got my first CEL at 65k miles. My high pressure fuel pump recall parts are on order as of 5 weeks ago from my July 2022 recall. I'd love to say they'll come in when I drop it off in a couple of weeks for the CEL.

What's the over/under on my recall parts being there in 2 weeks?

What's babby's first CEL? (No fuel cap, easiest guess is out.)

Stay tuned to find out!

Moey
Oct 22, 2010

I LIKE TO MOVE IT

cursedshitbox posted:

The Jeep, with 70 thousand miles on it started to eat its power steering pump. It was louder than any Ford unit I've ever encountered.
2/10 beer job on the Pentastar. Took maybe 45 mins start to finish. The hydraulic tensioner is a bear. It's stout enough to crack my elbow in ways that don't sound good.

Button it back up. Still howls. Ah dammit.
Couple hundred miles later the new pump noise is gone.

Did you replace the pressure hose as well?

My 105k mile wk2 needs similar work. poo poo was screaming with wheel movement. The pulley on the pump was slightly wobbly, so I hoped I could just swap that (mild pain on the 5.7), but no dice. From what I can tell it's sucking air into the loop magically, so I got the new pump/pulley and pressure hose. Doing half assed turkey baster fluid swaps would bring it back to life for like 20 mins of driving.

Winter motivation to tear up my knuckles is at an all time low, so I just have not been driving it for like 6 months. It's starting to get nice out tho....

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Nah the hose was fine. Pliable and soft. The jeep is barely 8 years old.

giundy
Dec 10, 2005
This looks good in a JK...right?

McDeth
Jan 12, 2005
I'll mail $100 to anyone who can correctly guess what's happening here. My 2013 JK Rubicon is randomly throwing dash lights, wipers wiping, and sometimes (but very infrequently), experiencing intermittent engine power loss for <1 second and then recovering. This has been a sporadic issue for the last 6 years, and I thought I had it licked when we replaced the clock spring. This immediately fixed the random, intermittent wiper issue, but recently, it has started to display random dash warning lights again.

Today, this came to a head when I started it and the dash warning lights started to chime every 3-5 seconds. A new issue has also now popped up: all of the interior and exterior lights were flickering, sort of like when you have a low battery and a low idle or if you're looking at a monitor at a low refresh rate. I checked the voltage across the battery with and without the engine running and got 14 and 12.5 volts, respectively, so I think both the alternator and the battery can be ruled out.

Eventually, everything settled down and I started driving. About a mile down the road, I took a right turn through a stop light, and immediately all of the warning lights flicked on and off, and I lost engine power for about a half-second. For the next minute or two, the flickering issue returned with the headlights, and this time my ham radio started to turn off and on, almost like it either wasn't getting enough power or something was causing the accessory rail to completely lose power intermittently. I also noticed that for a short while, even my speedo and tach were jumping around, which I have not seen before. Everything eventually settled down on the drive back home.

When I returned, I shut it off and put the volt meter back on it and everything checked out. However, this time, when I went to start it again, she was completely dead...as in not even the accessory lights would come on when I put the key in or the dome light when opened the door. I popped the hood again, rummaged around, and after about 5 minutes of sitting, it started right up again!

Last weekend, my girlfriend and I were driving, and I noticed the battery light had come on—something I'd never seen before. I popped the hood and, without thinking, grabbed the positive battery terminal to check to see if it was loose. I didn't even touch the terminal for more than a fraction of a second, and it was hot enough to burn my finger (easily a first-degree burn).

W...T... F... I'm really starting to think that this has something to do with either the ECU, or maybe a bad ground somewhere? I'm really starting to lose faith in the reliability of this particular Jeep...

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

That sounds a lot like the issues that I dealt with in my (completely different, XJ) Jeep. Guesses included bad grounds, bad ECU, alternator, need to add an external regulator, etc.

The answer ended up being a significant amount of wear through the wiring harness. I would definitely check grounds first, then I'd start looking at wire harness.

Moey
Oct 22, 2010

I LIKE TO MOVE IT

Krakkles posted:

bad grounds

I feel like this is correct 50% of the time with Jeep electronics

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
When my Jeep was randomly dying for short bits like that it was the ground wire that screws into the ECU case that had come loose.

I'd check how crusty your wiring is at that battery terminal first though. I can't think of any reason it would be getting hot other than the wires rotting through and generating heat as power gets crammed through whatever's left.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Seconded. If it was a healthy connection, the only way it would get that hot would be running enough current to melt any wire in the vehicle. Since your Jeep is not on fire, that leaves "it's a bad connection that's generating a lot of heat".

At that point I'd also be going through the service manual listing of every ground connection on the Jeep and inspecting every last one for corrosion or otherwise compromised connections.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

This isn't grounds (this time.....or at least primarily) because it's the positive terminal that was hot. I'm going to guess the terminal connection is terrible (take it off clean the post and terminal) but also that the cable itself is rotten under the insulation. You'll need to take a razor knife and cut some back from each end. You're likely to see green crusties and if you do it's time to replace that cable.......and to do the same thing to check the ground cable from the battery because if one is like that the other probably is as well.

McDeth
Jan 12, 2005
So on a whim, I went and bought an IR camera and...yikes.

2013 Jeep JK


For comparison, my 2017 Ram EcoDiesel


Since I'm dumb and like spending extra cash, I'm dropping it off at a shop that specializes in electrical issues.

McDeth fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Apr 1, 2024

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

McDeth posted:

So on a whim, I went and bought an IR camera and...yikes.

2013 Jeep JK


For comparison, my 2017 Ram EcoDiesel


Since I'm dumb and like spending extra cash, I'm dropping it off at a shop that specializes in electrical issues.

quoting to see the images

e: uhhh is that a junction block or something? yeah das no good

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





McDeth posted:

2013 Jeep JK
my 2017 Ram EcoDiesel

McDeth posted:

Since I'm dumb and like spending extra cash

You already told us what you drive :haw:

But uhhh yeah wiring hot enough to boil water is one hell of a problem. Really interested to see what they come back with.

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McDeth
Jan 12, 2005

IOwnCalculus posted:

You already told us what you drive :haw:

But uhhh yeah wiring hot enough to boil water is one hell of a problem. Really interested to see what they come back with.

Just wanted to clarify that not all Chrysler products are hot (heh) garbage. Also, we have a big nothing burger. Even the specialist electrical shop refused to look at it because there are too many aftermarket electrical mods. I mean, what the hell? It has a loving winch and a goddamn SPOD...shops these days are hot garbage.

The guy recommended I take it into the dealership and have them look at it. :shudder:

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