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I want to pull my rear seat and get one of those air mattresses to put back there. It'd be nice if I could find a way to be able to quickly get the seat in and out so I can just pull it out to sleep in when I'm on the trail. Sleeping like this has been my dream since I was a kid: (Kevin Bacon isn't really in my dreams) On to the exhaust. Overview:  Left side under the frame, not so bad:  Left glasspack saggin' a bit:  Here's the butchery! Right side between the spring and frame:   Some good bumps are going to give me a nice single exhaust setup one day. Right saggin':  This was also hanging out the side too. A hack saw fixed that. Nature took care of the color matching on the end. Looks like there is plenty of room to actually stick mufflers up behind the rockers, mine just aren't. The problem is getting it under the frame. I think the left is OK, but the right is awful. I'm not going to fix it until it breaks. Those are stocks headers as far as I know, for the Y-pipe. The right header comes out way differently, and one of the POs just got lazy with the exhaust.
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Jun 10, 2008 02:12
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Cocoyofoo posted:I have a 2000 4.0 TJ and the coldest my ac will blow is about 75. Would I need to get my poo poo recharged? How hot is it outside? I think A/C should blow about 20 less than ambient.
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Jun 14, 2008 18:50
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Maybe it does need a recharge. It's the most likely thing for A/C not being cold. Refrigerant doesn't really go bad, though. If you need a recharge, then you have a leak. Remember to run your A/C every once in a while to keep those seals in shape, even in winter!
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Jun 15, 2008 05:05
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I do get a lot of attention from offroad guys. FJs, CUCVs, Scramblers will wave. I catch guys in lifted Cherokees staring a lot. But almost everyone in a Wrangler stares at me like I'm an idiot, regardless of garb. Riding in my friend's Wrangler, his hand was almost permanently upright saluting other drivers. It was just weird to me. He said Jeeps wave at each other, but I think he and most people seem to equate Jeep and Wrangler. I think I'll get to my transmission and transfer case this weekend or next week when I'm out of class. I'll try to get pictures and make a guide of the chain replacement because I haven't been able to find a good illustrated guide before.
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Jun 18, 2008 20:36
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Well, changing the transfer case chain has turned into a big failure. There is one bolt that I just can't get to budge to get the case apart. I'll need to drop the case, and I just can't do that right now. So I gotta put back together what I had apart and save the job for when I have some better tools and a proper place to do it.
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Jun 28, 2008 22:05
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BigKOfJustice posted:Try heating the bolt? I had to do a t-case replacement on the field on my truck, wound up catching a ride to home depot and picked up a hand torch [I think I had mapp gas] and just heated the suckers up then pulled them up. There isn't any room in there, that's the real problem. The only thing that will physically fit is a 1/4" ratchet with a 9/16" socket. I can't even fit my box-end wrench over the bolt, the ring is too thick to go between the bolt and case. The head on the bolt is too short and my socket keeps slipping off. For some reason that bolt head is different from all the others. And the vacuum diaphragm that locks the center diff is in the way to get an extension to use a bigger ratchet. It's just a big mess. I have all the seals and gaskets I need to rebuild it, so in a couple months (after I graduate) I'll pull the whole thing and do it all proper.
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Jul 1, 2008 22:24
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MrZig posted:The bolt is a reverse torx I THINK. And it's really long. Hmm it might not even be a reverse torx. When I had my transfercase out I had to take it out with a vice grip. Is that a 242? I have a BW1339. And the bolt I'm working on is definitely hex. As far as I know all the bolts holding the halves of the case together should be the same. For some reason this one is a bit different. Maybe whoever was in here last buggered it up. BigKOfJustice posted:Screw the socket crap, get one of these [ratchet wrench/t-handle]: That looks pretty cool but I don't think it'll help me. Only the thin walls of a socket will work. The bad part is I think I can fit a breaker bar somewhere for every other bolt. They just ran out of space for this one. Salami Surgeon fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Jul 2, 2008 |
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Jul 2, 2008 01:41
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MrZig posted:Oh, sorry my bad. I thought you had the typical 231/242. In that case, I dunno. Haha, reading the label would have been the smart thing to do. That's not an FSJ case, and the only other full time case used in Jeeps that I know of is the 242. Jack_Handey posted:Are you not taking the transfercase out of the jeep to do this? It's stupidly easy to do, and it'll make it a lot easier to put it back together that way. I don't have a proper jack or the guns to move this thing around on my own. It's pretty pathetic. Apparently it's easy to smash a seal between the transfer case and transmission and ruin all the work. I need another pair of hands that are scarce in the summer.
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Jul 2, 2008 04:52
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I've heard of people replacing 258s with 4.0s, so I don't see why you couldn't do it backwards. Are you asking what you need to stuff it in your Cherokee? Next to nothing. All the 4.0 accessories should bolt up, just check stuff like rotation. Your mounts and bellhousing should work. You might need to snag a 258 clutch assembly and flywheel and Frankenstein that with what you have. Then deal with typical swap stuff like fuel lines, heating, cooling, etc. I think the biggest headache in the swap is getting electrics working.
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Jul 8, 2008 06:03
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I think those are Renix valve covers.
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Jul 9, 2008 05:49
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I was gonna drive my Jeep today, but it was INFESTED WITH ANTS. The front two doors have ants crawling all around them. What the gently caress? I have no idea why they decided to build a nest in there. There isn't any food or trash in there for them to eat. Bizarre. Why can't they just stick to digging in the drat ground?
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Jul 11, 2008 23:37
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Jack_Handey posted:http://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/747116649.html Did you ever end up buying it? I just spied a stroker.
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Jul 15, 2008 22:31
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Tire measurements are [width in mm]/[sidewall height as % of width]/[wheel diameter in inches]. So (235*0.75*2)/25.4 + 15 = 28.9" I think I got 235/75/15s on my Explorer, and 225/70/15s (27.4") were stock. What is stock on a Cherokee?
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Jul 25, 2008 02:26
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skinner posted:wiring and seat BJ's Offroad sells wiring harnesses, and you can probably pick one up off the IFSJA forums. And some wiring diagrams for ya. A lot of the stuff is the same between years. BJ's also has full replacement vinyl and leather seat covers (expensive!). You might want to look for a used set, I see them go for dirt cheap sometimes.
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Jul 26, 2008 17:19
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That'd be the best place to ask about the starter. Mine does the same thing, but it's so infrequent that I just don't care.
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Jul 26, 2008 21:05
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I'm having some electrical gremlins. Every time I turn the lights on, the gas and temp gauges peg. I had replaced the cluster when the old gauges weren't working, but it looks like they burned out from the same issue. God drat it. At least the new gauge cluster has cooler lettering.
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Aug 14, 2008 23:20
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Do you have a tranny cooler? On my Wagoneer, the cooler lines go from the tranny to the radiator then to the cooler. You can see the lines at the bottom of the radiator plain as day. I had a leak once that was really easy to spot. Just crank it up and see where the fluid drips from. Red liquid could also come from your power steering.
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Aug 16, 2008 15:49
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You need a better bumper so next time you can show that pole who is boss.
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Aug 25, 2008 00:02
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Wranglers don't have locking hubs, do they? I thought they were engaged all the time. A locker or LSD in that situation would be less than ideal. It will make turning a bitch. Almost all lockers I hear of people putting up front are manual, so you can engage/disengage them whenever you want. Maybe you can find a locker out of a Dana35 that someone else grenaded for cheap.
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Aug 25, 2008 00:38
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Where do you live that you can't find a good Wagoneer? I bought my 76 for $900, and I see a good number for around that. I kinda wish I held off on buying this one because there have been others I think I would have liked more. How serious are you going to get offroad? Doesn't the Commander have IFS?
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Sep 8, 2008 22:52
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Obviously fake because otherwise it would be driving straight up the side of the mountain.
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Sep 9, 2008 17:57
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Yeah, you could do better for less. Those fenders and rockers look like replacements. Any other big rust areas?
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Sep 16, 2008 04:12
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Do don't have many good FSJs to choose from, do you? I like J trucks, but $3000 is a bit much I think. What year/motor/trans? That Waggy isn't bad, but I prefer no later than 79 for Q-trac
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Sep 22, 2008 01:38
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Have you checked your transmission fluid level? When my Explorer is low on fluid, sometimes the torque converter doesn't lockup on the highway. Also please don't drive a car that leaks coolant on the trails. I cringe to think of all the cute squirrels that are gonna lap it up and die.
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Oct 15, 2008 22:05
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Stock FSJs will make it through Uwharrie. I've never been but I really want to go some time. My Waggy needs too much work to hit the trails now, so I wouldn't be able to take it until next year.
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Nov 10, 2008 02:47
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Slip yoke eliminator
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Nov 18, 2008 04:56
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xopher.white posted:The tranny fluid in my 98 Cherokee was low so I put a quart in and now I'm above max. Can I risk damage by overfilling? I don't think so. A lot of people claim that too much tranny fluid causes leaks, but it shouldn't be pressurized to do that. What does usually happen is the extra fluid gets vented out. I think people mistake that for leaks. I over fill my Explorer sometimes and I get a little red trail for the first drive and that's it.
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Feb 12, 2009 06:45
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If you have to ask when the ad says "Needs floor pans", no.
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Feb 20, 2009 01:13
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That is some pimp rear end wood 
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Feb 24, 2009 05:37
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AMC did not make transmissions.
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Feb 25, 2009 15:50
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A widetrack with fenders, amazing!
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Apr 15, 2009 02:40
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If you can't get to an Auto Zone or Advance or whatever, you could try this. I think it works for an XJ too.
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Apr 27, 2009 03:20
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You should be able to count MIL flashes to read the codes. The procedure to pull codes like that varies with the car but many have them.
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Apr 27, 2009 22:56
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Maybe you shouldn't have gotten rid of your big beast Cherokee. I haven't owned a Cherokee so I can't chime in on most of that stuff. But Cherokees only weigh like 3200lbs(?) so finding a Uhaul car hauler might be tough. Last time I looked into Uhaul car haulers, you needed at least 3500lbs tow vehicle and it has to weigh more than 80% of your trailer+stuff being towed. I don't know how much you can fudge because you have to get the trailer in person.
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May 2, 2009 14:16
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Disciple of Pain posted:Haha. Yeah, except pulling a trailer with that could probably result in one of the following with 100% certainty, probably more than one: It's a Jeep thing. What transfer case did you have? Quadratrac? I wouldn't be too worried about towing that kind of stuff if you know how to tow. They are rated up to 5000lbs with the right hitch. Same as my Explorer I think, except Uhaul won't rent me poo poo because I will flip over and die. I don't know if Cherokees have bumper hitches, but I see a lot with Class 2s.
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May 2, 2009 14:53
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Some gaskets want RTV, too. Maybe someone forgot it. It's really not that bad without a drain plug, you just have to take your time and let it drain slowly as you remove the pan. But you can always put a plug in when you have the pan out to make it easier next time.
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May 22, 2009 12:16
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I guess you could drill another hole and put in another grommet. The grommets will keep the wires from rubbing metal and wearing insulation off.
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May 30, 2009 00:32
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Use a gear oil pump  They look like something for putting flavor crap on snocones and screw on to your bottle.There are also handpumps that look like grease guns. You can use these to suck the old oil out and put the new oil in, no pulling the diff cover! They sell these at autoparts stores.
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Jun 30, 2009 00:50
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fordham posted:If you're towing or going off-road I recommend removing the cover to inspect the gears and make sure you clean out any metal fragments that might have broken off. This is true but it is also nice to be able to drain before you do that. Much less messy to pull the cover after the diff is empty. The pumps can be a bit of a bitch laying on the ground, though.
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Jun 30, 2009 03:06
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Maybe you need more room to clear a wider rotor (vented rotor vs solid), so thicker pads wouldn't work. I dunno, just guessing.
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Aug 27, 2009 22:19
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