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Slow is Fast posted:I thought I read somewhere that there was an aftermarket cover that solved the issue? No. There are aftermarket covers. Crown makes one, Edelbrock may have one as well (Edelbrock is a good source for other AMC go fast parts). The issue solved there is probably the outlet on the oil pump being too small, which is mostly a performance engine problem. The rear two cylinders are stressed in the oiling system and could be starved. I think that was discovered in the NASCAR and Trans Am motors. Not so huge a concern for slow turning truck motors, but not a bad improvement either. Stock covers can be drilled out as well. The big issue with the timing cover is that it is made of soft aluminum that wears over time and is especially scored by metal chunks. A tight clearance is required between the cover and oil pump gears to get sufficient pressure. I don't think there is any solution for this except to replace the cover as it gets too worn (or sand the surface back down to spec).
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Feb 26, 2012 19:36
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Put a breaker bar on the crank pulley and turn the motor over. If moisture gets in a cylinder and rusts a piston to the wall, you want to break that bond before engaging the starter. If you can turn the engine like that, you are OK. Then maybe pull the fuel rail and dump it out if you are feeling extra industrious. Other than that, there isn't much to keep it from running.
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Apr 11, 2012 05:05
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Does anyone know what it takes to make a Quadratrac 1305 transfer case into a 1339? I know you need the reduction unit. Anything else? Does the 1305 already have a sun gear for the reduction unit? I've searched around for this before and found people talking about it but never anyone actually doing it. If I can just take off the cover plate and slap a reduction unit on I'll be pretty happy.
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Apr 23, 2012 01:47
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Please tell me I am a total moron. Yep. You said "found" instead of "bought"
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Jun 17, 2012 13:35
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MAJOR STRYkER posted:caliper off Turn the cinder box so the hole is vertical and support the caliper instead of letting it dangle by the rubber line next time.
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Jun 29, 2012 05:09
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BoostCreep posted:My questions are, does anyone have experience with these? Are they relatively easy to live with? It's a carbed AMC 360 engine in a body that was designed in 1962, so I'm a little concerned about dealing with something of that vintage and technology. Will it be reliable? Can that engine even tow? I'm seeing a 5,000lb towing capacity for it, which might be incorrect as it sounds low, but with a V8 engine that makes 144hp it wouldn't surprise me. I've never towed with my Wagoneer, but I plan to. I know a lot of people have. The 5000lb capacity is for the factory Class III hitch. I think at one point Jeep offered a Class IV hitch, although that could have just been for bigger J-truck pickups. The horsepower is low, but the AMC V8s make good torque. The big things to live with: -No overdrive -Vacuum line spiderweb, emissions were not kind to Wagoneers (especially in Cali) -Ride quality with 4 leaf springs -Rust, thank your lucky stars on that front. But check the floors around the rear seats, it's a problem area. -Engine oil problems. A lovely aluminum oil pump housing gets ground away and you lose pressure. Timing covers (which house the pump) are expensive. Get a reliable gauge and keep an eye on the pressure and you'll be OK Pros: -V8 is reliable aside from oil problems -Chrysler TF727 is a beast of a transmission -Dana 44 axles front and rear or comparable AMC 20 in rear (not the same lovely 2-piece axle shaft ones in CJs, FSJ AMC 20s are solid) -The 2bbl carb is a Motorcraft 2150, maybe the best 2bbl carb ever -A lot of engine accessories and other parts are shared with big three trucks of that era -Dedicated community at https://ifsja.org and parts support at https://bjsoffroad.com and https://teamgrandwagoneer.com For $500, I'd have it parked in my driveway by now Salami Surgeon fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Jul 12, 2012 |
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Jul 12, 2012 02:36
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MAJOR STRYkER posted:You never explained what a cinder box is. It's a cinder block when your brain doesn't work and you don't proofread.
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Jul 13, 2012 03:56
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A gasket scraper will make life easier, and not the razor blade holder kind. I like to hit the mating surface with a bastard file if the gasket was particularly stubborn. I like to replace hoses while I'm in there too. You've got to yank them off half the fittings in the first place, the coolant's already drained, and if they've never been done they are almost 10 years old at this point. Hose clamps too, those are cheap. A 1/2" drive wrench is probably not the best idea. Water pump bolts should be less than 30ft-lbs, probably in the 15-20ft-lb range. A 3/8" drive would be a better bet. I like to use a beam-style 3/8" torque wrench: good accuracy, good price, and a good fit for a starter toolbox.
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Aug 15, 2012 02:54
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They were all passenger drop through 79 because of the D20 and BW1339 transfer cases.
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Sep 3, 2012 21:47
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I've used my BFGs exclusively on the highway and I have no complaints.
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Dec 14, 2012 04:00
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My '76 is my daily driver now. It's got a 2 barrel carb and it's not miserably slow. If you are concerned with power, there are still performance parts out there. These motors are mostly torque mills. Most of what you find will be 2 barrel 360 and 3 speed auto. 1980 was a changeover where they dropped the 401 V8, dropped the TH400 trans for a TF727, and started using New Process transfer cases. I think all the New Process cases are full time/part time 4WD. The Grand Wagoneer's first year was actually 1984, but most FSJ Wagoneers will be listed as Grands.
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Aug 6, 2013 03:41
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I don't know Disco transfer cases. When I say full time/part time, I mean like an NP242. There are 3 modes: 2WD, AWD, and 4WD locked center diff. Some of the cases have an open diff in AWD and some have a viscous coupling. The problem with the viscous coupling is that they can dry out after years in 2WD and then explode when AWD is used again. Some of the transfer cases don't have a selectable 2WD, but came with a (universally panned) vacuum front axle disconnect. It's complicated to track all this stuff as it varies from year to year and there are outliers. None of the drivetrain stuff is particularly bad if you aren't doing serious wheeling though. Some of the things to look out for: -Gears. 3.07s became standard to help with fuel economy. -Front Axles. No one likes the front vacuum disconnect, but it can be fixed. -Rear Axles. Some came with AMC20 rears instead of D44s. They are OK axles, not the same lovely ones on CJs. Comparable to D44s, but parts are a little more expensive. -Vacuum. Emissions begets a rat's nest of lines, switches, and delay valves. -Oil pressure. The oil pump housing is a weak point on these motors and wears. Cold idle 20psi is good, 15psi would be my minimum. -Rust. Other than typical places, check the floors around the rear seats and the frame around the gas tank.
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Aug 7, 2013 04:53
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BrokenKnucklez posted:How would one go about fixing the awd so the diff doesn't explode? You can pin the clutches in the viscous coupler together to make it a part time only case. You basically line up the clutches with a screwdriver, stick some dowels in, and remove the seals. Otherwise it's replacing the transfer case. BrokenKnucklez posted:Otherwise it sounds like finding a solid body is the hardest part of buying a FSJ.
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Aug 8, 2013 03:05
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When the VC goes catastrophically, it splits in half and you lose all power. You don't have drive, reverse, or park(!!!). I don't know of a noise. I don't much of anything about them specifically to be honest because I don't have first hand experience. If I were to wager a guess, I'd say that the VC fails when it overheats from overuse. I remember the stories being "I just took it offroad for the first time" or "it just snowed", probably kept spinning one wheel until it let go. Maybe if you drive on dry pavement in AWD for a while it'll be OK. DISCLAIMER: this is pure speculation.
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Aug 8, 2013 04:36
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Eggie posted:I've got a serious problem here with a 1986 CJ 7. It's a 4.2 straight six (258 cubic inch), 5 speed, with 33" tires. The gearing is believed to be stock. The carburetor is a Carter BBD. Sounds like a bad power valve or clogged idle tubes. How long ago was the carb rebuild? Were the idle tubes drilled out?
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Aug 9, 2013 01:51
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Eggie posted:The carb was rebuilt around August the 1st. The idle tubes opened up at that time, with a torch tip cleaning file. It was opened up approximately two sizes. The power valve is new. The timing chain was replaced on August 6th. So you were having these problems before all the work too? I suggested the idle tubes and power valve because they are pretty easy things to check. How is your vacuum? Timing? Do you still have the carb computer?
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Aug 13, 2013 00:23
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York_M_Chan posted:I am looking at a 1987 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. Does anyone know anything about this make? They're cool. You should pick it up. 1987 was the beginning of the end. All the major bits were locked in until the last Grand Wagoneer rolled off the line, the only things to really change afterward are more tentacles on the vacuum line emissions monster and some fancy interior stuff. The alternator is standard Remy 12SI that was used on everything. A/C compressor could be painful if that is what's actually broken. I thought those old York units ran forever. Hopefully just a clutch. The big killer is oil pressure. You'll want to check it at warm idle. 10psi is marginal at best, 15psi is OK. The rest of the stuff to look out for is the same on any old truck.
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May 21, 2014 01:41
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