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Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

grzydj posted:

Chrome don't get ya home, and those are way too expensive, like, $14.00 and your hands freeze to them in the winter. They look hella cool though.

lets compromise and go for big barefoot gas pedal then.

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Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

ethanol posted:

Please tell me if this is normal: my gas gauge reads 3/4 a tank and I've only gone 20 miles since my last fillup... :aaa:

I've not heard of TJs having gauge problems. Not like YJs but who knows. Mine floats all over the place and when it starts bouncing between 1/4 and 1/2 it's time to fill up. But usually I fill up around 130 miles, just to be safe. I'm still uncertain of my gas tank size. I don't know if it's 20 or 15, I've never run it empty to find out and don't plan on it.

To be safe you could fill up every 140 or 190 miles depending on your tank size.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
Can you guys list some good jeep forums. I love pirate but I'm not about to boatside my yj and dovetail the rear end end while doing a 3/4 elliptical suspension in the rear.

I'm looking for a nice mid level base of posters, above YO DESE FLATPANELS IN MY DASH ARE TYTE BRAH but below I BUILT THIS JEEP FROM SCRATCH.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
I think AI does spoil us. Maybe that's it.

SAN DIMAS HIGH FOOTBALL RULES!

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.


One down, one to go. These are some fenders I bought for 30 dollars and worked up a little bit. These are not true tube fenders, these are regular fenders cut up with some tube added and some diamond plate. For 30 bucks I figured what the hell.

30 bucks for both fenders.
35 bucks for diamond plate.
40 bucks misc paint and supplies.

I am loving too tired to finish so I'm driving around with 1 regular fender and 1 sexy fender.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

glasyalabolas posted:

After passing on probably 15 Wranglers so far, I'm checking this one out today - http://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/807462427.html

Exactly what I'm looking for - black, 6cyl, manual

Actually, it's a little nicer than my original plan but the price is right.

It's had one owner, a guy in his 40s. I've read all the FAQs about purchasing, mostly dealing with frame rust, leaks, and carb issues. The guy claims no rust and it's a '93 so it's fuel injected. Anything specific I should ask about or look out for in this particular year? The guy got a little huffy and almost sounded offended when I asked if it needed any work not listed in the ad, saying he felt he was very straightforward in the ad. This was originally listed at $3200 a few weeks ago. I'm guessing it's because the 6-cylinder models are not moving too quickly.

gently caress YEAH! Another YJ owner!
What do you want to do with it, or what are your plans?

I had trouble with the vacuum lines that engage the front axle. I ripped all that poo poo off and went with a posi-lock, which uses a cable instead.

Check for leaking at the rear main seal, it's a known issue. Some people just deal with it, but if you have the tools you can fix it and it's not such huge a deal.

The fuel gauge may dance around or some of the gauges may be off, because that whole loving cluster system sucks. It's not a huge deal, you'll just need to figure out your range using your odometer.

Transmission is good, engine is good. Front axle is pretty not bad, but depending on what your plans are the rear axle is the weakest link.

If you want to run ~31s it SHOULD do okay, but it requires careful use of the skinny pedal. Many people toss a lift and 33s on their first thing and are usually the ones sitting in the middle of the trail going "HOW DO I FIXED AXEL?"

Some people say the D35 is fine. I have seen too many failures and go off road sparingly and take it very easy for now.

Easy swap for rear axle is a D44, if you can find one it should bolt right in.

I chose to go with a Ford 8.8 for the rear axle and am on the precipice of installing it, gathering final parts.

The jeep you are looking at is fuel injected so most of what I have learned about the engine won't apply. I have no computer and I have 2 vacuum lines on the engine with no EGR. I do know you should look for oil in the air box as that is a common problem on the 4.0s and is an easy fix. Look for rust on the bottom of the master cylinder as mine was eat the gently caress up.

I have schematics of wiring for the jeep and have done led taillights, backup lights, and all the plans needed to replace that lovely goddamn gauge cluster with real gauges. I've herculined my tub, replaced pretty much every torx bolt with a regular hex head one, replaced the front speakers the easy way, and about every other "small" project you can do.

I am in a holding patter gathering parts to install the rear axle, which will be the beginning of the end of the "poo poo to replace" list.

Also not to scare you off read this:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=502691

most are accurate,it depends ofthe level of how ragged out the YJ actually is.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

Scrubed posted:

gently caress.



Crazy old man darts out in front of me at the grocery store in the middle of a left turn; i miss him by mere inches only to catch the big gently caress off concrete pole in front of the place. I bite through my tongue i hit so hard. So i jump out of my car and spit a mouthful of blood onto the concrete and slur 'The fucks?!'. Old guy literally takes off running and hops in his car and drives off. I bend the fender off my tire and drive home.

Meh, i really wasn't upset with the guy; more in a daze and a gently caress my car is smashed anger. Oh well, time to raid a pick a part and make my jeep one of the proud members of mismatched fender color glory.

Get insurance money. FLAT FENDERS.
These are my home made ones but there are loads of manufacturers who make em.
my home made ones.

i forgot about imageshack and sa.

Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Aug 24, 2008

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

pr0zac posted:

I spent Friday stuck on the side of the highway, then stuck at a Sears auto-parts in my coworker's 1989 Cherokee 4x4. Seems the water pump pully is toast (wobbles like mad, prob bearings) and tossed the serpentine belt. Obviously after missing work and spending a ton of time dealing with this piece of junk, I offered to buy the thing off him.

So questions. He says hes having the water pump fixed for $250. That seems kind of cheap to me, though I'm basing that off the 16 hours I expected it would have taken me to fix in my friend's driveway. Does that sound reasonable price wise? IE will it actually be fixed as opposed to duct tape repaired?

For an occasional weekend driver is this thing going to be a pain to deal with? I don't care if the wipers break or or whatever, just that its not going to strand me somewhere. Its at 283k but had the 4.0L replaced about 80k ago, clutch is strong, power steering is good, and the A/C still blows cool, and it some how passes smog. Hes the second owner, the first being his mom, so I've got a pretty good idea about the history. What should I be double checking before I hand him the $750 he wants?

A 4.0 waterpump is easy to replace, and around 50 bucks. I guess most of that 250 is labor, even then theres not much to it. 3 or 4 bolts, remove the fan clutch, replace. You could do it easily yourself for ~50 bucks and around an hour of time.

The 4.0 is very easy to work on in fact. Nearly everything is easily accessed and bolts off then back on.

Check the rear main for leaks, you can keep putting oil in or replace it in about 2 hours.

Worst case scenario you part it out and make money. front rear axles transfer case, motor, interior misc stuff, etc etc.

Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Aug 31, 2008

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

InitialDave posted:

That sounds like the Land Rover ad where they showed a 90 winching itself up the face of a dam.

How about the Rover in The Gods Must Be Crazy winching itself up in the tree?

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
PLUG IN WRANGLER ANNOUNCED.

http://www.dailytech.com/Chrysler+Unwraps+Three+Electric+Vehicles+Sales+Start+in+2010/article13044.htm

40 miles electric only.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
Anyone ever put a sunroof in a jeep hardtop? I've seen em around and have even found a few I like but was wondering about the install on the fiberglass hardtop. Safelite autoglass doesn't do sunroofs anymore. I assume it's cutting a hole based on a template and clamping in the ring and some sort of sealant around the ring.

Just looking for some insight before I wind up with a huge hosed up hole in my hardtop.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

Cat Hatter posted:

Ok, I feel stupid for needing to ask this, but the only time the axle fluid was ever changed in my '98 XJ was about 60k miles ago and whoever did it ripped the identification tag off. Am I correct in thinking that this is the 8.25" rear end?


Click here for the full 800x600 image.




A D35 is more round, I'm 98% sure that is a 8.25. D35s and 8.25s both have 10 bolt covers and use plastic drain plugs.


AH HA!

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Jeep_Axle_Info_and_Ratios.htm

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

incredibull posted:

You can get around 1.5" with extended shackles only. If messing with leaf packs is beyond your difficulty level right now, you can start with just the shackles. In fact that's probably the best approach, as you might find that the small lift is enough to satisfy you when combined with a step up in tire size.

For a road driver, you want a shackle that's heavily reinforced, else you'll get flexing in the shackle, which is good for off road, but terrible for on road. Warrior makes good basic shackles with heavy center reinforcement. Here's a 1 1/4" pair for front and rear:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16045_04.htm
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16046_02.htm

You can very easily change these out in your driveway, one at a time. You'll need an alignment afterwards. Also, now is a great time to replace the leaf eye bushings. Again, Quadratec has what you need:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16045_12.htm


This is what I currently have, just lift shackles. But also no flares and ghetto'd tube/flat fenders. I run 31x10.50s on 15x8 steel wheels. I WAS going to use TJ flares on the rear but I think I'll just trim the wheel wells out and call it done.

Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.

(yes yes, my next job is to sand and hit all the black stuff with a fresh coat)

You cant do any of that in NJ. NJ requires the tires to be completely covered at all times which is why you see so many jeeps with them wide rear end flares.

As for the shackles, it can be a loving goddamn pain in the rear end to DIY. The way the bolts are from the factory. I'm not saying it can't be done at home, just have plenty of beer and try to do it where your swearing and crying won't disturb anyone. I paid someone else to do it because it seemed like too much of a hassle.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
I badmouth the D35 any chance I can get. HOWEVER, the D35 can do okay I guess it depends on the driver and their application of the skinny pedal.

31's is all I'll run on it. I know people have and do run larger but I've seen too many failures and it just makes my rear end in a top hat pucker to think of having to deal with that off road. I do have a spare set of shafts just in case, but I say several prayers anytime I get off road with that thing. If anything worse was to happen I guess theres always the remove rear shaft and drive home in fwd....possibly.

Also my jeep is 20 years old, next year it can buy it's own goddamn beer.

Slow,steady, and easy wins the non grenaded D35 race.

Also low is the new lift. or I should say there is a large population of people doing more cutting and minor lifting to stuff larger tires while keeping a low COG. There have been some pretty neat looking rigs with 33-35s with minimal lift just a whole lot of sawzall application, or highrise fenders and poo poo like that.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

ManicJason posted:

My '95 was marking its territory a bit when I got it at 97k and still does at 140k. It doesn't seem to have gotten any worse.

The main reason I fixed mine was because my friends made me park in their yards, and didn't want me oiling up their pretty concrete driveways.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
ALSO:

Click here for the full 1120x840 image.

That is not MY jeep.

This is proof 33s will FIT with no suspension mods.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

n0tqu1tesane posted:

Well, yeah, they fit so long as you don't go off even pavement.

PFFFFT. details.

This guy was interesting to watch. He posts were always referred to as DON'T DO THIS.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

glasyalabolas posted:

That's a good basis of comparison for me, I have the same lovely plastic flares and those things that barely qualify for bumpers. My clearcoat's worn away so I'm going to spray it this spring. This opens it up for some body work as well. I don't think I'd do that with mine, and cutting away fender to open up more room leaves me with the problem of finding flares that fit correctly. I'd still want to ride a little higher and would probably max out on 31" or 32" for now. I'm on the edge of the rust belt but there's nothing serious under there; with some penetrating oil the shackles shouldn't be too tough.

There are a set of oversize flares that actually have you cut the wheel well out to make the new flares fit:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12510_501_07.htm

I'm pretty sure you cut out the rear because they are "TJ style rear flares".

PDF instructions say yes.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
an add a leaf in the rear would be much MUCH better than a block. Most kits for XJs are just that. New coils and add a leafs, or replacement spring packs in the rear on the more expensive lifts.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

incredibull posted:

I used to think Cherokees were garbage, but man this thread has really turned me on to them. But oops I just bought a Wrangler.

I'm thinking of dumping my Wrangler for an XJ.

Thinking.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
I'm not going to post a thread just for it but I am seriously thinking of selling my YJ. I thought I'd mention it here before I go on into the jeep forums to try and sell it.

If a goon were to buy my Jeep I'd throw in every part and jeep thing I have laying around including a ford 8.8 rear axle geared 3.55 from a 2000 explorer.

I'm looking for ~4000 dollars. 88YJ 3 speed auto. 258 I6.

Hard top full steel doors
soft top half steel doors w/ soft uppers
TJ rear flares (unmounted)
Factory fenders available

7" LED S/T/T tail lights
2 reverse lights

diamond plate corners
flat/tube fenders (homemade)
Warn rock sliders with rail added
front bumper w/ d-rings
winch plate
10,000 lb winch (vortex/gorilla/bulldog)

herculinered tub
2 black vinyl seats from 4wd.com
sound bar
rear tuffy storage box
tuffy console (beat to gently caress)

15x8 black steel wheels
31x10.50 Mt tires (Adventuro)

Remanufactured engine with ~10k miles on it
motorcraft 2100 carb
TFI ignition upgrade
3 row metal radiator with transmission cooler

The paint is rough (what isn't rattle canned already) but it is 20 years old.

It's something I'm toying with. This is sort of a feeler.

I have some poo poo going on right now and I don't know that I can really keep the thing. I'm in NW NC west of Winston-Salem. Of course things could change but if someone were to make an offer between now and Thanksgivingish I'd probably let it go.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

Jack_Handey posted:

Go for the 7 inch unless you plan on getting larger tires in the future, then I'd go with the 8" wide. I ran 33x12.50's on factory 15x7 wheels with no problems though.

As far as offset goes, factory is 5.25" of backspacing for all Wranglers (pre-JK) and Cherokees and Grand Cherokees, 4 1/2 is nice if you want to run bigger tires in the future because you won't rub on the control arms when turning, but they'll stick out a little bit more than stock.

Why did people poo poo the bed about running 33s on 15x8s on JU. Talking about blowing a bead on 8" wheels and that a 10 is really needed for 33s.

I'm confused.

I was mad cause I thought I was gonna hafta get new wheels for 33s.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

Gavitron posted:

besides the $1000 calipers etc, that's like three weeks of $100/hour welding & fab work too...

AND IF YOU CANT BUILD THIS ON YOUR OWN YOUR A GAY PUSSY N00B rear end human being /pirate post

I have seen some really cool poo poo there, and many times what you see/learn can be scaled down to fit your meager non hardcore n00b rear end.

And the softcore section is JU but on adhd medication.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
Since I have apparently become retarded where is the screw/bolt to turn to adjust distributor timing on the 258?

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

Click here for the full 880x585 image.


I dunno about the cover in the back, but I think I like it.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
So how many here are near Uwharrie? With gas being somewhat down it wouldn't cost terribly much to drive there now. It'd be a long trip for VA goons, but SC wouldn't be a bad drive and I forget how many are IN NC but a trip to uwharrie for a meet and greet would be not bad, I just forget when the seasonal closure is. (DEC 15th - APR 1st)

Maybe a day trip.

anyone?

EDIT:

Or with planning, a weekend trip.

I'm not looking to make a COONGAMP, but if we planned we could wheel and/or FO Sat, camp, and leave Sunday, or wheel a bit then leave Sunday or whatever. I kkn ow some people don't like camping in the cold but if we could stir some interest we could make a small meet and have a pretty good time. I think.

Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Nov 8, 2008

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

ManicJason posted:

I'd love to take my mostly stock YJ whenever. I'm up in Richmond, VA, but the time I've gone without wheeling is getting embarrassing. I've had new 30" BFG A/Ts for almost a full year now without testing them :(. The local Jeep groups seem to want some kind of donation before they'll even talk about events, so I've never bothered to join.

I took my old XJ when I had it and it did fine, plus theres always people in their new FJ cruisers, rovers, and other vehicles that I couldn't stand to scratch the paint on.

I've been loving off in a few places around me that generally consist of very small loops. One of the places has a nice huge rear end rock for me to practice climbing with a carb, which is stay on it until you're over it or you just flooded out.

Closure is Dec 15th which leaves 4 weeks, really 5 but that last week is usually PACKED. If we wanted we could sit on it for now and plan something in April when it opens back up.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

Jack_Handey posted:

I've been to Uwharrie tons of times, it's really kid stuff, a stock XJ will make it through just fine with a good driver. I'm actually closer to Callalantee in Tennesee now though... that's a REAL off road park :)

I was really really R E A L L Y thinking of dumping the YJ for a FJ Cruiser. I really like the FJ Cruiser, but when I watched some youtube videos of FJs at Uwharrie I rethought that plan. I don't ever worry abotu banging sheet metal or loving up the pain on my YJ, watching those videos made my rear end pucker. Similar with a JK, I don't think I could bring myself to beat the gently caress out of a vehicle I was making a 350 dollar + payment on.

So I've regained my thought processes and will keep the YJ and find me some sort high mPG DD.

Plus I think I've figured out where I'm getting the money from for the rear axle upgrade and suspension, so I can see some sort of light at the end of my project tunnel.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

SNiPER_Magnum posted:

Stock FSJs will make it through Uwharrie. I've never been but I really want to go some time. My Waggy needs too much work to hit the trails now, so I wouldn't be able to take it until next year.

I saw one dude about gently caress his doors.

Well, like i said 4 weeks left this year, reopens april 1.

poo poo I could gently caress around and have new axles by then.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
ONE of the projects I have lined up on my YJ is replacing the gauges. There is a replacement cluster that mounts aftermarket gauges at an angle facing the driver, the gauge furtherest away is angled more then the closest gauge and the ones in between angle slightly more as you move away from the driver.

The main problem with replacing the stock cluster is the goddamn fuckass copper/plastic trace poo poo they used to send gauge signal. Which is the main reason gauges in YJs are usually all hosed up.

I have figured out all the wiring colors and will replace the clock with a trans temp gauge.

I think the gauges would be around 200 dollars and the new bezel/cluster 60. I figure 280 for the whole project.

This is of course if I decide to stay with the factory look. I am contemplating removing the glove box and guage cluster and having a "flat dash" from the speedo over to the passenger side dash pad. Keeping the factory heat/air controls and radio position. But that would take some sheet metal work I don't know if I want to gently caress with.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

Ninja Dan posted:

Hey guys I don't usually post in AI but I've run into a few problems with my jeep. Usually, I use my Haynes manual to fix my 93 cherokee but I've misplaced that so I was wondering if there was anywhere online that has basically the same information. I've googled and looked through the OP but no luck.

tia
alldata has its poo poo online now. It's the same poo poo mechanics have/had on DVDs with keys for ages.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
OR the jeep HAD full steel doors, and a highline fender/hood setup, or tube fenders with a different hood.

If that is the case it has probably been beaten to death off road.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
If this is against the rules, let me know.

Here it is.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110329629501

In case anyone wanted a Wrangler that has been taken care of. I'm just wanting to get what I have in it. If a goon gets it you will get much more than advertised. (Various Parts etc)

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
http://www.jeep.com/en/4x4/systems_by_vehicle/

Is neat for whichever Jeep you have.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.
what brand are those fenders? Smittybilt XRC? AtoZ? Homemade?

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

Scrubed posted:

Smittybilt XRC. I don't really recommend them. They are well constructed but unless you get extremely lucky they just don't mate up well to the car. I had to do a lot of adjustment, pounding, grinding, and cursing to get the mount points to line up. As it is now I only did the bolts to the grill and the firewall. gently caress the bolts in the wheel wells, i left the stock ones in and just put these over them. There's no way to make those line up. They also retain a decent portion of the inner fender for support. I'll get an undershot of the driver side to give you an idea of what i mean.

I would say the better option is one of the solutions that is an entire fender replacement.

Funny thing is the smashed up passenger side was easier.

Most tube fenders have you cut and slip the tube fenders into place. From what I have seen they all take swearing and grinding. I have seen ratchet straps used to finesse them into their correct position. I THOUGHT the smittybilts were a complete fender, unbolt the old bolt in the new. I really think if I get to that point on whatever I wind up with in the future I'm going to go with the xenon "flat fender flares".

Click here for the full 650x816 image.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

Braincloud posted:

But, but... those are plastic!

Now that Poison Spyder stopped manufacturing everything, I was saddened that I couldn't get flat fenders for my JK.

Until I happened upon these:

http://www.riverraider.com/ProductsTubefenders.html

Now I just need to set aside the coin to buy them!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=526364&page=7

One guy bashes the poo poo out of them and they come back with a few scratches. The yellow jeep shows how you can stuff a tire with em.

I'm just taking notes/making a list of options. poo poo when I do get a Rubicon I may be tickled shitless to just bolt my winch on and be done. For a while anyway.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

Ninja Dan posted:

Hey guys! Just returned from the salvage yards. Managed to pick up the trim off the instrument panel to replace mine since it got broken when my radio was stolen a year ago. Only thing is, this one is faux wood finish and the old one was matte black/grey.


Click here for the full 1280x1024 image.


What do you guys think would be the best way to paint it? I was considering just taking some spray paint to it but maybe someone could suggest a better way.

I'd say sand as best you can and use that fusion stuff. I think it comes in OEM colors as yell as yellow and pink for DANGER TO MANIFOLD rice options. I've seen people use that fusion stuff on wrangler dash pads and it turned out swell. I image as with any paint prep is the main issue.

Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

xopher.white posted:

Can someone post a pic of what the gently caress a pizza cutter style wheel looks like? Yes, I GISed it, but I get a variety of results, including kitchen implements. Also, can you post a wheel source saying that they sell pizza cutter wheels?

Maybe he means the Cherokee donut which fits in the back on the side, it's pretty narrow.

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Tossed_Salad_Man
Feb 19, 2002

You Gon' Get Raped.

mcvey posted:

I'm guessing it was routed through that bracket to the hose on the right side that is missing an attachment. Whatdya think? This is definitely a surprise to me because I definitely would have noticed this before when looking at my engine bay.

Like so:
Click here for the full 768x576 image.


Where the hose has been cut could I just... I don't know, duct tape/electrical tape it together and run another hose to the right side or is the pressure too high and I'm an idiot? Or just take it to a shop and let them deal with it. It's too cold out to start doing anything myself.

Remove that elbow the hose is connected to (ccv valve I think) and replace it with an open breather element. Basically a small air filter looking thing will stick out of the top of the valve cover. What you need will be over in the ricer section.

like this


just shoved in that hole.

there are also chrome looking ones where you can't see the element.

Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Jan 13, 2009

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