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Hay guys, what's going on in this thread?
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Feb 15, 2008 16:13
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 01:20 |
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Hey Jeep guys, just curious as to where you obtain your recovery gear. I'm looking to pick up some D-rings, straps, a come-along and a hi-lift.
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Dec 13, 2009 15:45
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Got a driveway? Bolt the drat thing to the ground with big-rear end chains wrapped around the axles. You'll need to cut and pour some concrete forms into the ground with big closed eye loops on them to attach the chains. It'll work though.
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Dec 17, 2009 17:15
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Doctor Zero posted:Everything I've ever read has people swearing up one side and down the other that if you don't run ATF+4 in your tranny, you'll gently caress it up. The Cherokee doesn't run the god awful A604. The AW-4 automatic that should be behind that engine likes Dex/Merc just fine. You might be thinking of the Grand Cherokee, which had their TorqueFlite-derived four-speeds made all loving sensitive and require ATF+4.
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Jan 12, 2010 16:54
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on the internet, I mean Jeep-smart people on the Jeep forums.
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fordham posted:
The AW4 is a pretty good transmission, but perhaps a little undersized for the larger Grand Cherokee, especially when paired up with the larger v8 engines that were available in that platform. Chryco took their excellent, but outdated TorqueFlite and created 4-speed overdrive versions. These are the 42RE (NOT to be confused with the Ultradrive-derived 42RLE) and the 46RE in the Grand Cherokee. The 46RE is actually a pretty drat good transmission, it's basically a 727 with an extra gear.
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Jan 12, 2010 19:28
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incredibull posted:The 2.8 was awful, so unless you plan to swap in a 3.4, I'd just stay the hell away from it and find a 4.0. Even 2.5 would be better. Seriously, listen to this man. I've had one and it's HORRIBLE.
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Jan 19, 2010 17:59
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a handful of dust posted:I've been looking for a nice YJ for a good while now, and ran across this: drat, that thing looks amazing. Usually they've been molested and modified to hell and back by now. Not sure if the price is good or not, but I'd be very interested.
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Jan 20, 2010 20:49
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A Man Whore posted:I've become enamored with J-10's and J-20's. Especially short bed J-10's. How hard are these to find in somewhat good condition for someone whos not magical mechanically, and how much would one in that type run cost wise? Watch out for low oil pressure with the V8 engines. They like to roast the rear main bearings and cam bearings. The fix for low oil pressure is usually a new timing cover, which runs $400 or so.
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Jan 24, 2010 15:04
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freestyl posted:I'm starting to do some research on Liberty's, from like 02-07. Is there any advice I can pick up from you guys? Any major problems or engine issues? Looking to make this a family vehicle to replace a 97 Camry. Scary auto transmissions. There are several varients but they're all evolved UltraDrive (think A604) units. I've got a hard-on for a Diesel Lib, but really it's just the diesel I want, and I want it in a Cherokee or a Wrangler. So really I don't want a Liberty.
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Jan 25, 2010 02:47
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freestyl posted:Scary like, they break a lot? Would a similar year Cherokee be a better quality buy? I have no experience with Jeep whatsoever. Scary as in, they've got issues. The Ultradrives were notorious from the start. They are fairly good now, and when they are working right they work very well, but they're still very finicky and sometimes just explode, others just never work right. That all said, I took an A604 (the most notorious and failure-prone Ultradrive) to 146,000 miles. I thought it died when it dumped all it's fluid on a drive across the state, but it turns out it was just the cooler lines. I replaced them, sold the van and I know it was still running just fine a year later.
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Jan 25, 2010 17:59
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freestyl posted:Sorry, I meant the Grand Cherokee. I had a 1995 Grand Cherokee was that stonking mad in the snow. Fucker was climbing over snow banks and poo poo. It had a part-time 4wd system, I think it was called selec-trac. You had to move a big lever to engage it and you couldn't run it on dry pavement. Real positive engagement deal. Only problem I'd have with it today is that really they're not that big inside. Certainly no more passenger room than a Camry, and that's the problem with all SUV I see today. They look big, but really they're much more like tall sedans. Now I live in St. Louis so I don't have to deal with the snow you do, but for the family hauling business I picked up a Mazda5, and it's superb at that duty. If you're working with young children, once you live with sliding doors, there is no going back.
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Jan 25, 2010 18:35
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Rhyno posted:But there was a new head design and stuff! They could totally bring it back! The problem with the I6 is that it powers the Cherokee (discontinued), the old Grand Cherokee (discontinued) and the Wrangler and nothing else. It's a big heavy bulky engine that doesn't fit in the majority of what's offered in the MOPAR family. It makes sense that it's dead, sad as it is. They're not going to produce an engine that only powers one vehicle. It's not economically viable in today's automotive manufacturing climate where everything is platform shared and parts-bin. The old EGH (minivan) motor meanwhile can plop right into just about everything they poop out.
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Jan 26, 2010 17:36
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Rhyno posted:Well the obvious solution is for Chrysler to redesign every vehicle intheir lineup to fix the 4.0. I'm ok with this.
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Jan 26, 2010 19:02
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a handful of dust posted:Have any of you guys ever daily driven a Wrangler with the 2.5 4 cylinder? The 2.5 is stout, but nearly as thirsty as the 4.0, which really sucks because it's no performer. Jeep also used a 2.4 liter four, which isn't an AMC design. It's a variant of the Dodge Neon engine. It'll likely take to boost very well. Regardless, I'd go with 2.5 liter over the 2.4 because the 2.5 is basically the AMC six with two cylinders lopped off. Meaning if at some point in the future you wish to go to the AMC six, it will mostly just bolt in to your existing drivetrain. I've seen those AMC 2.5 fours running with 0 oil pressure. Guy who wheels with our club was running one on the trails, 0 oil pressure and chugging along all weekend. He smoked like a bug-fogger everywhere he went and we all thought the motor would die by the end of the day, but 6 months later he was still running the drat thing.
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Jan 26, 2010 20:32
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Clamwacker posted:The 4.0 won't just drop in to a 2.5's drivetrain, because the 2.5 uses the AX5 transmission in most years. I suppose you could adapt it, but I've heard some people say the 4.0 will tear it to pieces. Should bolt up, the 2.5 and 4.0 should have the same "AMC" bolt pattern. I didn't realize the 2.5 and 4.0 used different transmissions though. I wouldn't bolt the 4.0 to a transmission smaller than what's already used. The AW4 is pretty tough, but won't take to really hard use. I'd want to shove an AMC v8 in place of the four. 401-powered Wrangler or Cherokee, sign me up.
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Jan 26, 2010 21:23
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a handful of dust posted:I'm mostly looking at YJs in my price range, and $4k seems to buy you a pristine 4 banger or an absolutely beat to poo poo rust bucket with a 6. At least that's what I've been running into in my area. It buys you a lot of Scout though. My $2800 Scout II: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDOwiP3McrM With the hard top installed.  Come to the dark side. It's actually red. trouser chili fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jan 26, 2010 |
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Jan 26, 2010 21:44
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:BEEP BEEP. From the Moon. This is the kind of poo poo Wranglers crawl over. And to top it all off, the 0 degree approach angle is completely wasted by the rest of the vehicle.
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Feb 2, 2010 16:26
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Muffinpox posted:My parents seized the 4.0 in our Jeep Cherokee Sport a few days ago. I gave them a It's rare, but any engine can be destroyed. They were probably too nice to it.
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Mar 17, 2010 15:42
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because I thought that was extremely difficult if not impossible.
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FogHelmut posted:What is the opinion on the Patriot/Compass? My sister is thinking of getting one, or another small SUV. I really don't know much about them and she keeps asking me questions because I "have opinions on cars." In my opinion the factory line that produced them should have ended at the precipice of a very large cliff, so that every single one of them could be thrown off it.
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Mar 19, 2010 15:35
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its like lava posted:Hey Jeep dudes. This looks like a good deal to me, what do you guys think? I'm in the market for a classic project car and this struck my eye. Why is this not in your garage RIGHT NOW? With those AMC v8 engines, watch out for low oil pressure. They'll roast the main bearings first, back to front. A new oil pump (timing cover) will set you back some serious coin. Mine was $400 or so from Bulltear.com with oil filter adapter and their "HRC" gears, nickle-plated is the way to go. trouser chili fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Mar 22, 2010 |
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Mar 22, 2010 02:06
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Doctor Zero posted:
My mother's 03 Grand with the 4.7 HO powertech v8 had a similar problem for years. Hot starts were a problem. In winter it would fire up easily, summer time it could crank and crank and crank and finally wind up enough to catch on a cylinder or two and run under it's own power. The tailpipe would puff black smoke during these starts. Running a little rich, eh? Yeah. It was under warranty and it took two different dealers to come to the conclusion that a few of the injectors were borked and basically pissing fuel instead of atomizing. They replaced so much poo poo before that it was ridiculous.
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Jun 3, 2010 15:30
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As they get older the Jeep understands the need to begin self-lubricating it's chassis. This prevents rust.
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Jun 14, 2010 02:44
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Doctor Zero posted:I would be very wary of a Jeep that didn't have an oil leak somewhere. Oh god, don't start it. It's must be out of oil!
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Jun 14, 2010 21:43
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VH4Ever posted:
$2,500 engine rebuild and a six month wait to get a good nickel-plated timing cover and oil filter adapter from Bulltear because your found the rear main bearings wiped to copper. Seriously, be careful with the AMC v8. I love the engine, but if they've been running low oil pressure for long they'll eat the main bearings, starting from back to front. Oil pressure is often low because of several factors. Number one is the oil pump cavity itself is made of aluminum. There are two gears that spin inside the cavity, transporting oil around the outside of the gears along the pump cavity face. That face gets scored up easily, being that it's made of aluminum. Once scored, oil pressure is lost. Another source of lost oil pressure is the oil filter adapter. The gears also ride along the face of the oil filter adapter, it's also made of aluminum. Another problem with the oiling system is again in the oil filter adapter. The filter adapter has a faulty oil filter bypass, which can allow poo poo into the oil pump, which scores the walls of the oil pump cavity. The final problem is that the motor just doesn't oil the rear main bearings very well. Oil doesn't get back there. First fix is a nickel-plated timing cover from bulltear.com. Oh, did I forget to mention the oil pump is cast into the timing cover? Ok well the oil pump cavity is cast into the timing cover. Anyway the guy is meticulous, but very slow. Expect to wait and wait and wait for your timing cover. There is only one manufacturer of timing covers these days and they're often poorly made. This guy at bulltear gets them, inspects them, corrects them if needed/possible and then nickel-plates them for durability. Second fix is a nickel-plated oil filter adapter again from bulltear. You can order this together with a timing cover. I also highly suggest their "HRC" oil pump gears, they fix a problem with the oil pump gears that causes them to flex under load, which also causes scoring of the oil pump cavity. The final problem can be remedied with a mod one can perform only during a rebuild. I've done it on my 401 during it's rebuild. It involves tapping two holes in the lifter vally and a line run from one to the other. This transports high pressure oil from the front of the engine to the rear. 
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Jun 14, 2010 22:05
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VH4Ever posted:Guhhhhh I think my eyes went crossed! It really is a love/hate/love relationship with old Jeeps isn't it? I'm guessing no "improvements" were made to any of these old V8 engines during Chrysler's (brief) stewardship of the Wagoneer? Wagonmaster irks me because they charge waaaaay too much and are using an International Harvester name to brand their service. THIS is a Wagonmaster.  It's the Chevy Avalanche about 30 years before Chevy built it. Anyway, you can add multipoint fuel injection to any AMC v8, Edelbrock makes it and it's a good system from what I can tell. Personally I'm very happy with an Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) carb and an HEI ignition system on my 401. The drat thing screams. Edelbrock also makes aluminum heads for the AMC v8, I'd love to try them with the MPFI, but man does that take some money. Maybe someday.
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Jun 16, 2010 02:16
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A.o.D. posted:Are new Rubicons a bad idea if you want to go offroading? They're probably the most capable Jeep that Jeep ever built. They're fantastic offroaders. But like mod sassinator already said, do you really want to be rubbing $30,000 up against trees and bolders and poo poo? I wheel a $2,800 Scout and feel bad because I crunched my rockers which were already rusted and in need of replacement.
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Jul 13, 2010 14:52
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Geared Hub posted:It's a Catch 22, I get asked that when people find out I wheel my truck, its like, you can't afford to spend that much money and *NOT* wheel it, otherwise what's the point? Well, that's a good point. I mean if I bought one it sure as hell would be getting dirty.
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Jul 13, 2010 17:21
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Time for a Dana44!
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Jul 26, 2010 15:13
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Philip J Fry posted:It's like a JC Whitney ad, only with Rokmen stuff instead. I find it hard to believe that anyone that is going to spend that much coin on proprietary aftermarket stuff (the axles alone are probably pushing 10k) is going to restrict themselves to a factory Jeep chassis/body. If I had the money I'd shove 10k in axles under my $2,800 Scout II. I want portals really really bad.
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Sep 30, 2010 15:50
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Urgh, WJ issues here. I've got a 2002 Grand Cherokee with a check engine light. The code indicates a failure of the leak detection pump, a component of the evaporative emissions control system. I'm currently about 1000 miles away from the car. The local dealer wants my mother to shove $800 in their pockets to fix it. My dad is fairly trainable and I can probably instruct him on how to repair it, but I'm looking for some pictures of the location and instructions on the internet and not finding much. Any help? Vehicle details: 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 HO v8, automatic transmission. 92,000 miles. It's green, I think.
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Oct 25, 2010 19:05
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Here's an interesting Jeep. Grand Cherokee with a strange prerunner styled front end. The fenders said Rubigrand. Tried to get a picture of the front end, but the MB 240d wasn't able to keep up with it.
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Oct 27, 2010 21:29
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 01:20 |
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Hey Jeepers, check out this Cherokee I saw. 
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Sep 14, 2011 15:08
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