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ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


~what is art, baby dont post, dont post, no more~

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decahedron posted:

I heard that the tooling was also wearing out and that it would be very expensive to replace. That could be a total bullshit rumor, but that's what I've heard had an impact as well.

The tooling went on a boat to China, where the motor is still being produced.

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ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


~what is art, baby dont post, dont post, no more~

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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:

How does an electronic sway bar disconnect work? I mean you push a button and what happens, mechanically speaking? Stays connected somehow allowing drop, comes disconnected or what?

Electromagnets. Then a motor moves the sway bar up when you reconnect it so it can reattach with the magnet.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


~what is art, baby dont post, dont post, no more~

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This guy put the swaybar disconnect in his YJ. You used to be able to get the entire assembly for $80, but it was priced wrong, and DC caught on and raised the price to $1800.

Anyway, this is how the guy says it works:

quote:

HOW THE JK SWAY BAR WORKS

I am not an engineer, but in the process of figuring this modification out I did completely disassemble the JK electric sway bar. This is what I found:

The JK electric sway bar assembly is really simple. It connects and disconnects with the use of an electric motor. There is no need to detach the sway bar links, as we normally do with manual disconnects. There is an electric motor in the middle of the swaybar.

When turned on this motor pushes a plunger against a plate. When pushed by the plunger the plate moves in about 1 inch thereby disconnecting the swaybar. There is apparently a sleeve inside the assembly that moves along the sway bar on splines. Probably much like the Dana 30 vacuum disconnect system.

The plunger is driven by a screw which is turned by the electric motor. When the plunger reaches the limits of its travel the motor turns off and a “magnetic brake” engages to hold the plunger in place against the disconnect plate. The magnetic brake is what appears to be a coil with a magnet on top. The JK computer maintains current to this magnetic brake until the user wants to reconnect the swaybar, at which time the current is removed from the magnet. When this happens, the plunger, which is spring loaded, returns to the connected position and the swaybar reconnects. So the default/poweroff position on the sway bar is connected.

Now, reading the JK forum, I've found that people are having issues with the swaybar disco not reconnecting. I haven't tried it on mine yet (oh, yah, I bought an Unlimited Rubicon the other day) but I'm sure it's probably broken on mine as well. It's a Jeep thing... :)

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


~what is art, baby dont post, dont post, no more~

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Disciple of Pain posted:

Well yeah, that's the other reason why I wish Jeep would be more like the utilitarian Jeeps of old. Why use a motor and magnet and various other craziness when a bolt and nut or even a pin will do just fine, be more reliable, cheaper, etc.

Then buy a Sahara or an X without the disconnect. It's only on the Rubicon.

The Wrangler is still a very utilitarian vehicle. It's been on the market forever and only now has got optional power windows and locks. It's still got solid axles. It still has removable doors and a fold down windshield. It has drain plugs in the floor to get water out when you get it wet inside. There's more painted metal in the interior than plastic.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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SNiPER_Magnum posted:

Can you get an X or Sahara with the 4.10 gears, 4:1 transfer case, and lockers?

In 2007 you could get an X with the 4.10 gears and a rear locker. They deleted those options for MY 2008.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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Get AAA. I think it's like $60 for unlimited tows up to 100mi.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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Get a 92+ Cherokee. It has the 4.0 HO engine. The best year to get is the 99 Cherokee, since that has all of the updates to the body and interior, and the best motor. The 00-01's have problems with the heads cracking.

Expect to pay from $2-7k depending on year, options, mileage, etc. I paid $2k for my old 90 Cherokee which had bad u-joints and some rust, but ran great.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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gravypig posted:

Here are a few pics from my brothers last wheeling trip. He went to Crozet in Virginia with some of the guys in the club. His is the blue Toyota.

Not to nitpick, but you know this is a Jeep thread, right?

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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XenoWolf posted:

Woot! Thank you IRS for my monies - I'm heading out Friday to go shopping.

I'm looking at a 4DR Wrangler X with these options:

23S - 6 Speed S Pkg.
PGJ - Jeep Green Metallic Clear Coat
AJP - Power Convenience Group
AEM - Dual Top Group
DSH - Tru-Lok(R) Electronic Locking Rear Differential
SHG - Electronic Front Sway Bar Disconnect
DME - 3.73 Axle Ratio

Any of these a bad idea, or not worth getting? Anything I should look at instead?

I was under the impression that the diff lock and swaybar disconnect was no longer available on '08 X's. Are you looking at used '07's?

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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KickStand posted:

Click for big.

How's your blend doors and blower motor resistor pack?

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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KickStand posted:

Still running strong as of right now, although ill probably jinx it by posting this. Im not too worried about when they do go they are both pretty easy fixes.

After 8 hours of ripping the dash out, yes. :)

My blend doors broke 3x and somehow magically fixed themselves each time. My blower module melted so bad that I couldn't get the molex connector out.

My WJ was the worst Jeep I've ever owned. :(

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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K posted:

Hey Jeep'ers, how do soft tops fair during rough winters? I'll be moving to Chicago this summer. Should I consider an additional, after-market hard top?

In 2004+ models the soft top was redesigned and is a bit thicker. Both of my Wranglers (04 and now an 08) both stay quite warm in cold weather.

You can get replacement soft tops from Besttop (who I think is the OEM supplier anyway) that are thicker.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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CommieGIR posted:

I normally despise electronics in vehicles, my 1985 Cherokee Laredo actually came with power windows and locks, plus tilt.

The Laredo was the "luxury" trim line.

What you really need is a Wagoneer or a Cherokee Briarwood. The Briarwood had plush leather seats, wood grain trim, and infrared keyless entry.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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FogHelmut posted:

Oh great, I test drove a Wrangler tonight and now I'm probably going to end up being one of you assholes. How do these things age? Am I better off just buying an older one with a lot of miles rather than spending way too much for something used at a dealer?

They age fairly well. It all depends on what you're looking for.

YJ: First generation Wrangler. Very good off-road, very poor on-road manners. Uncomfortable, loud, etc. Parts are dirt cheap, and it's easy as hell to work on them. They sometimes like to rust. Also since they were 80's and early 90's vehicle, it's easy to find them with weird rear end colors and factory graphics.

TJ: Second gen Wrangler. Very capable off-road, although some might argue less capable than the YJ. Coil spring suspension all the way around, which, while still easy to work with is more expensive to lift than the YJ. Probably more reliable, although some things may be harder to fix. More electronics started creeping into these vehicles. They do well on-road as well.

JK: Third gen Wrangler. Much more comfortable on-road. I personally don't think they're as good off-road as the TJ, but that might just be from the seat of the pants feeling I get from my Unlimited Rubicon. They're much more expensive, and drat near impossible to work on yourself.

IMHO, the TJ is the best balance of off-road performance and on-road comfort.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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mas posted:

Not planning on restoring it for show or anything like that. Is this a decent deal?

Eeh, it's a cool vehicle, but honestly I think you'd be better off taking that $1300 and putting into a cheap YJ or XJ. It all really depends on how much wrenching and waiting for parts you want to do.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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CommieGIR posted:

Is that the CRD diesel model?

Did the CRD badge on the back give it away? :v:

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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SNiPER_Magnum posted:

Is the Jeep wave just for Wranglers? Because no one waves at me.

Pretty much, yes.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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MrZig posted:

Speaking of wranglers, what's the general consensus on YJ's? I might sell my '89 XJ and buy a YJ next year. I'd get one with the 4.0L and AX15 only.

A TJ is a better Jeep all the way around. The YJ has probably the worst ride that I've ever seen. Just about everything in the TJ is an improvement, most notably the suspension and livability.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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Most Jeep forums are terrible. I don't even go to any of them anymore. I used to be a somewhat prolific poster on JU a few years ago, before it got really bad.

AI does spoil us.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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I'm torn about my '08 Rubicon. On one hand, it's a really, really nice Jeep. On the other hand, it just doesn't seem to be as good off-road as my old TJ Rubicon, and I just don't have that personal *click* with it that I did with my TJ.

Part of me is somewhat glad that I've leased it, since I may just hand the keys back at the end of the lease and walk away.

It's really the most underwhelming Jeep I've owned, which is a shame since it's (on paper, at least) an excellent vehicle.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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spiralbrain posted:

Ive heard people split on this. Some have said what you have and others who've said its even more capable than the TJ Rubi...

I think part of it is that it's so computer controlled, I feel so disconnected from everything with it. To me it doesn't feel like a real Jeep. *shrug*

It may be better on rocks than the TJ Rubi, but in loose sand and tight trails, my TJ seemed to do better. At least that's how I feel about it anyway.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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grzydj posted:

If you can, keep your Maxima and buy a Wrangler as a fun/weekend/wheeling vehicle. They're not the greatest daily drivers, especially when you're only getting 15 mpg tops. I get about 11 tops with mine.

9k should get you into a nice used TJ with a 4.0 inline 6, but the thing is, you won't keep it stock for long, and the mods never end.

I have to disagree. A stock TJ will get you to 90% of the places in the world. Keeping it stock will make you a better driver. The more you mod, the bigger chance you run of getting yourself in to more trouble than you can handle.

Also, you should have put swampers on the POWA WAGON.

ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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DefaultPeanut posted:

I do have a question though.
I am going to be looking at a 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 in the coming weeks. It is in pretty good shape, save for a few chips on the hood, and tires that need to be replaced. It has 240K KM on the clock, and is owned by the original owner. Is there anything that I should watch out for with these, save for having to wire my bank account to the fuel gauge some how. The 4.0 is pretty gutless when it comes to towing, and this would be fun, and a fun little thing.

I owned one. They're fast, fast trucks. They're as good as any other ZJ offroad with the right tires. They require premium fuel, and drink it down at about a rate of 10MPG. There is/was a chip that you could get that would detune the engine to run on regular.

Other than that, you have the same ZJ issues as everyone else. Namely the vicious coupling in the transfer case likes to go out, and that's an expensive repair. You might want to look at swapping the transfer case with a NV242 so you can run the Jeep in 2WD or part-time/full-time 4WD.

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ZippySLC
Jun 3, 2002


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^^ SWB is the way to go with the JK.

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