|
I've seen mention of watching Jeep forums to buy a jeep ... which ones in particular are good? Any other good sources for jeeps? I'm looking for a two or four door XJ, probably '96+? (various googles show that power was bumped in that year, but I'm not really sure). Definitely 4.0L, 4x4, auto preferable. Budget is about $5k.
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2013 02:20
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 01:25 |
|
|
Thanks! That helps. Are there any particular models that indicate the car isn't 4x4? I've noticed a lot of people won't mention it in their ads, so anything I can do to narrow down which ones I respond to makes it easier on me. Basically: Is the Sport model 4x2 only?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2013 03:12
|
|
|
I'm hoping being from Southern California, that *might* not be too much of an issue, but I'll keep an eye out. Thanks for the info, guys! Hopefully I'll be an owner in short order 
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2013 05:06
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:I've been keeping an eye on Craigslist for XJs lately and they are crazy cheap. You can find great examples for way under 5k now. Let me know if you want a tire kicking buddy. I owe you for helping with my Bricklin. Oh, and I wanted to add: BrokenKnucklez posted:kinda piggish on gas.
Krakkles fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Jul 19, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2013 05:35
|
|
|
Found a '00 XJ Sport (4.0, 4x4, auto), lifted, with 31" tires, looks to be in good shape locally, going to check it out friday morning. Hoping it's not gone by then. It looks about perfect - even had the engine replaced with an '05, so no worries about the head crack issue. One question: Were Cherokees sold as 49/50 state legal in '00? I only ask because it has AZ plates on it, and that's a potential problem. They DID say they have smog already done, which they shouldn't have been able to do on a non-50 state legal car, but ... it's still got me worried. Anyway, what all do I need to look for? I know rust, especially on the floor plan.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 25, 2013 03:03
|
|
|
Killer. That helps ... I'd seen that the TUPY thing was put on the later engines, but I didn't know if it was possible to see it without valve covers off. I'll bring a flashlight
|
|
#
¿
Jul 25, 2013 03:14
|
|
|
What tools do you guys keep in your jeep, especially when wheeling? I'm working on setting up a toolbox to hopefully be able to fix (almost) anything, and I'm curious what all I'd need to keep in it. So far, I'm planning: - 1/2" sockets, Metric, I'm thinking 8mm - 21mm? (The biggest bolt I know of so far is the lugnut at 19mm, but I haven't been all over the truck yet) - 1/2" breaker bar ( http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-25-breaker-bar-67933.html ) - 1/2" ratchet (Craftsman, probably?) - 3/8" sockets, metric, probably 6-16mm? (I'm also not sure what the smallest bolt on the truck is, yet) - 3/8" ratchet - metric combo wrenches (I have this Craftsman set, but may need to add a few more) - channel locks (brand?) - needle nose / flat nose pliers - ratcheting screwdriver with philips, flat, and torx (?) What else do I need? And what's a decent box to keep stuff like this in?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 31, 2013 21:26
|
|
|
Lots of great info, thank you, guys. For reference, I've got a '00 XJ, of which I need to post pics soon. First the butt rear end ugly decals have to come off the sides (probably this weekend).
|
|
#
¿
Jul 31, 2013 23:09
|
|
|
Are there any better stereos like that? Ideally, I'm looking for (multiple mono/stereo) AUX in, USB, and (maybe) an SD card. And I'm willing to spend more than $30 to get a good one. Basically, I want to have my ipod plugged in while driving, have the option to switch to a USB stick, and also have a ham radio (two mono 1/8" outputs) plugged in. If necessary, I can unplug the iPod to plug in the ham, but I'd like to be able to leave both plugged in. Also, I can adapt the mono outputs to stereo, so it really doesn't matter if it has two monos and a stereo or two stereos. I'd prefer at least one be on the back of the unit.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2013 17:08
|
|
|
Look out for body rust, and all the normal stuff - leaks, functionality of components, etc.kastein posted:Sport generally is 4x4. If you get a frontal shot from the CL listing, just look for the differential hanging down on the driver side in the picture, that means it's at least partially 4x4. Make sure the transfer case and front driveshaft are there, a friend of mine got scammed on one that'd had a front axle put in, and a transfer case shifter, but no transfer case or front driveshaft... I asked the same basic question a week or so ago, this was the clearcut answer. Make sure to shift it into 4H and 4L to make sure it will
|
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2013 19:18
|
|
|
I'm going to put an auto-locker in the front of my XJ, and I'm wondering if anyone has any opinions on Spartan vs LockRight. They're both pretty cheap, but the LR is a bit cheaper - any real difference between them?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2013 04:04
|
|
|
Just ordered a Lock-Right for the front end of my XJ ... I keep telling myself it's not a project car. ... It's a project car, isn't it?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 13, 2013 06:00
|
|
|
Had a moment of panic last week when I started leaking (more) oil (than usual). Uncle and I spent labor day working on it, replaced the Valve Cover gasket, front driveshaft, all U-joints forward of the TC, the passenger side hub, and the sway bar bushings, and put a LockRite in. We also broke three bolts (how the gently caress did an AZ car get so much rust?), drove the car in 2WD by removing the front axle shafts (DO NOT EVER DO THIS), and got towed when the front passenger hub fell off the car because it's held in by the axle nut. On the upside, it now drives amazingly better, and doesn't appear to leak at all.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 3, 2013 19:35
|
|
|
What headlight upgrades are the best? I'm generally thinking a wiring loom upgrade, H4 housings, and some decent bulbs, but I'm pretty apprehensive about the products I'm seeing out there. A couple of jeep forums recommend this harness: http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G Which has a couple bad reviews, but doesn't seem totally scary. I'm willing to spend more if the quality is worth it. I'm not finding anything in terms of decent brand name housings, and I'll probably just throw sylvania bulbs in unless someone has a better idea. 2000 XJ, for what it's worth.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2013 07:57
|
|
|
Philip J Fry posted:Cibie, Hella, IPF and AutoPal housings are all fine with the Putco harness. I put mine in two years ago with Hella housings and it's performed great. I think some batches had bad Chinese relays or something, but I haven't heard too many complaints considering how many people have ordered that thing and installed it. You'll have to pull your factory fog light relay, otherwise you can't toggle from high to low beams after you've flicked them to high; you have to kill all the lights and then start at low again.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2013 16:39
|
|
|
Veeb0rg posted:If you didn't have factory fogs, you'll be fine. I have Autopal h4 Ecode housings and the putco harness. No complaints, it was probably one of the best "bang for the buck" upgrade I've done to my jeep. Just stay away from the "crystal" h4 headlights, they're pure junk and just scatter light everywhere.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2013 19:57
|
|
|
kastein posted:There are more aftermarket upgrades for the NP231 (I forget whether that's command-trac or selec-trac, but it's the one without fulltime 4x4) but I doubt that'll become an issue in a liberty. It's only really something you should consider if you intend to lift it and/or go 4 wheeling with it.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2013 21:46
|
|
|
So my Jeep has a 3.5" lovely block lift, and I want to do a proper lift. I like the size of the lift, though. Who makes a good quality 3.5" lift for the XJ? Comfort, quality, and articulation are important, cost isn't really an issue. Edit: And while we're at it, what sway bar disconnects are good? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Sep 16, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Sep 16, 2013 01:44
|
|
|
Interesting. This looks like what I'd want. Is that pricing about right or is it available cheaper if I shop around?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 16, 2013 05:56
|
|
|
Dumb question: I've got a 2000 Cherokee with a Dana 30 front, and a LockRite locker in it. When I drive it in 2WD, there's a pretty definite throttle related clacking noise - like a rattle, but heavier. There's a pretty noticeable vibration from the front right corner with it. It happens starting from a dead stop, goes away relatively quickly (20-30ft traveled, I'd estimate), and also happens relatively constantly when going around right turns (but not left turns). Letting off of the throttle stops it immediately. Is this just the locker, or is there something else that could cause this? We've checked and there's no obvious play in any of the front end hardware, so I'm kind of at a loss if it isn't the locker.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2013 07:32
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:How are the wheel bearings? I'd jack up each wheel and jiggle them around forcefully to see if there's any play. Also spin them and if the bearing is bad enough you'll hear it for sure. I also got the hop/chirp doing a full lock left (U turn) tonight - not the same noise, but I thought it was interesting. I'm thinking that it IS the locker, and that it's different right / left because of the unequal shaft lengths - the longer shaft on the right puts more force on it. Does this sound right? I'm thinking I'm going to throw my GoPro under the car tomorrow and get some video / record the noise, so I'll post that when I get it done. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Oct 3, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2013 07:56
|
|
|
kastein posted:There are no vertical bolts on the frame in that area except for the sway bar mount bolts iirc but it is still something to check. 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2013 17:41
|
|
|
I still see them in junkyards all the time - I can't imagine they're hard to get. If you have trouble, let me know, I'll be at a junkyard next weekend and would be willing to ship one. (I can't imagine this would be a fast enough solution, but there it is...)
|
|
#
¿
Nov 4, 2013 07:29
|
|
|
How are your tires? I was having gnarly death wobbles and it ended up being unevenly worn tires. Rotate your tires and see if it continues or changes.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2013 20:03
|
|
|
I think that's a "hahahahahahahaha" on that scale. Has anyone here done the 8.8 rear swap on an XJ? I've got a '00 XJ (4.0; 4x4; automagic) and it's on the short list of necessities. I'm wondering what the major hurdles that will inevitably crop up are, and what supporting equipment I need to buy. Related question, what's a good slip yoke eliminator? I think we're going to do them at the same time so that we can (maybe) sort out the driveshaft once, rather than twice. We've got a '97 explorer with rear discs that I'll (probably) be able to grab the rear end out of for not much, we'll likely be rebuilding the diff (fresh clutches, basically), and will be changing the front Dana 30 to 3.73s to match. And hopefully not long after, 33s! Edit with what I found so far: This site says the parking brake cables are a huge pain in the rear end, and it's worth buying the aftermarket ones for this swap. Also, brake proportioning: I have no loving idea. And the parking brake is still a drum? poo poo, guess I need a Mico. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 08:10 on Nov 12, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2013 07:31
|
|
|
Audiologic posted:http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/8-8-swap-write-up-530202/
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2013 08:12
|
|
|
kastein posted:Don't waste your time on an 8.8 unless you're going 4.10s, 3.73s is barely a change. You can put $80-100 in junkyard ZJ rear discs onto an 8.25 in a couple hours and Crown Automotive makes an e-brake cable kit that makes the cables bolt-on. If we did just do the brake swap, I'd still want to regear for 33s, and in that case, doing both axles anyway, I'd go 4.10s. I do want discs in the rear - I understand drums can lock up the tires, but they don't hold very well on hills (esp with the e-brake), and they get really crappy if they get wet. (And yes, I'm from the southwest, and supposedly the XJ is too (AZ), but it's got a loooooooot of rust on it.) Edit: Oh, other question. I want some kind of good diff in the back (ie, not open), and I'm leaning toward a selectable locker. What's good for the 8.25"? Looking around, it looks like there may not be any. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Nov 12, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2013 17:26
|
|
|
Makes a lot of sense, actually. I'm not sure how that would happen, but it does seem like a simple explanation.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2013 20:32
|
|
|
Veeb0rg posted:You might want to check with the local junkyards and see if you can't find an 8.8 with 4.10's and then sell your 3.73 axle to cover the cost. I like the idea of keeping the 8.25, because it seems like less work / maybe cheaper, but I think the lack of selectable lockers would bother me. Edit: It looks like with the 8.8, if I can find an explorer with axle code F7, K6, or R7, I can get an axle with 4.10s and an LSD. Which might (should) be cheaper than an Eaton. I'm not sure which way to go on that - I think I'd end up wanting the selectable, but I don't know for sure that an LSD isn't good enough. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Nov 12, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Nov 12, 2013 22:28
|
|
|
Yeah, I've already got the mild D30 w/ locker in the front, and on our last trip, it became apparent that I need at least an LSD in the back. Ideally, I'd like an ECTED (selectable limited / locked), but they have gotten pretty bad reliability reviews, so I suspect I'll go with the LSD, and if it ends up really bothering me, I'll change it later. I'm a little worried about going with 3.73s, but it shouldn't be an absolute dog, and the labor is free and largely making the decisions there, so ... I think it's ok So: - find an 8.8 with an LSD. 4.10s if I can, 3.73s if not. - get matching gears for front. - rebuild LSD. - weld axle tubes to housing - replace seals & bearings - SYE (Rubicon Express?) - driveshaft (I don't know the brand on this, my uncle has a brand he likes that he uses on his truck, so I'll probably be going with that) - mounts - e brake cables - proportioning valve Am I missing anything big?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2013 08:03
|
|
|
Oh, that's handy - if it broke on the trail, swap it over. Awesome.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2013 08:27
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:I have 33's and 3.73s with a manual transmission and it's not bad. I have to stay in 4th when there's any incline on the highway. It is one reason I stuck with 33's and didn't go bigger though. I can't imagine it being as manageable with larger tires.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2013 18:07
|
|
|
goobernoodles posted:In response to my tire suggestion request a few pages back... Stock was 225/75-15, you could probably put 235/70 on without much issue. There's a multitude of tires on tirerack in the 225 size for well under $450 / set - I'd, honestly, just pick whichever ones you like that have decent reviews on there.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2013 19:10
|
|
|
jonathan posted:I don't see the point in looking for an LSD diff. I'd rather have an open diff so I can install a lunch box locker in it. I have a front locker, which gives me the clacking / chirping in turns fun already with it unpowered on the street (ie, in 2WD). If the rear was always locked, I think it would be ... more irritating. Right? Edit: And truthfully, cost isn't really an issue. It's not NO issue, but I'm perfectly willing to spend $900 on an ECTED if it will give me what I want and not decrease reliability. So an LSD or lunchbox locker as a cheaper option isn't attractive BECAUSE of cost, though if it will do most of what I need (ie, work acceptably offroad) and not offer any real downside, it would be. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Nov 13, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Nov 13, 2013 19:42
|
|
|
Ok, so I'm trying to figure out Slip Yoke Eliminators. I know I need to move to a CV driveshaft, and I'm planning to do this concurrently with my 8.8 swap. The part number for this that I've found online is the Rubicon Express RE1807, and it looks like you're supposed to run it with the Rubicon Express RE1898 driveshaft. Is this correct? Do I need other parts to complete this? Is this the only driveshaft I can use this with? I know people here mentioned being able to use the stock FRONT driveshaft with this kit - is this possible? The vehicle is a 2000 XJ, 4.0, 4x4, automatic. I believe it's an NP231 transfer case. It will by the time this is installed have a Ford 8.8 rear end, which is what I need to get the driveshaft matched up to.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 17, 2013 06:22
|
|
|
Thank you! Any suggestions on who makes that type of SYE? My guesswork so far hasn't led me to one. In thanks, here's a picture of the vehicle in question, in Moab: 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 17, 2013 06:57
|
|
|
Went to the junkyard, found 4.10s for the front. Progress!
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2013 02:20
|
|
|
Sigh. Of course they won't fit.
Krakkles fucked around with this message at 09:41 on Nov 18, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2013 09:14
|
|
|
kastein posted:Let me guess... a YJ axle, or high pinion gearset going into a low pinion housing/vise versa. When you say get the correct housing - you mean like the pumpkin? I didn't think that was something you could replace without replacing the whole axle (or cutting and welding it in, but at that point, what's the difference, right?).
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2013 18:58
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 01:25 |
|
|
kastein posted:Ring/Pinion/Carrier from a high pinion axle SHOULD fit a high pinion XJ axle. You will still need the full setup kit, all the tools I mentioned, etc and either an entire day to learn how to do it yourself or ~1/2 day for a pro to do it, but they should fit. Why isn't it going together? I do have a pro helping me with this, so I'm not worried about that part, but it sounds like the only realistic option at this point is to just find/buy some LP 4.10s. I don't think swapping the front axle is really justified, even if they are a little stronger/have a bit more clearance. Thank you! I appreciate the info. Edit: Maybe it's not a complete waste - I think I'd need a new carrier for 4.10s anyway, and I can't think of a reason that one wouldn't fit. $58 carrier, but still 
Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Nov 18, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2013 22:28
|
|