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Toot! Toot! My 1984 Cherokee Pioneer. Whopping 2.5L 4 cyl engine. Some days can make 55MPH up hill on the 65MPH interstate. All with about 10 miles per gallon! YAY! It's a hoot in 4 low off-road though. I have NOT had it stuck yet. Too many new parts to list. It runs.. It was free. Painted OD green with a roller. Pinned the doors for easy removal in the summer. It even has working A/C! Since the '84, I have owned an '86, 87, '99 and currently have a '92. Thanks waffleimages! Slack3r fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Feb 20, 2008 02:21
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miklm posted:I have a question... I've wanted a Jeep for quite a while, just an old beater. How are Jeeps for moderate/light towing? Could a 4.0 Wrangler or Cherokee (not Grand Cherokee) pull, say, an aluminum trailer with a <3,000 lb car for up to 100 miles or so, maybe 200 max? I would advise AGAINST towing a car on on a car-dolly with the small Cherokee. They are awfully light in the rear end-end and towing something like a car would be asking for trouble. Now, I have towed a Dodge Caravan about 15 miles with my 1984 Cherokee and a tow-rope. But even that was asking for some kind of trouble. Anyone have the towing caps for the various small Cherokees??
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Feb 25, 2008 02:52
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Jack_Handey posted:Thats the thing, I didn't, only the first cylinder had water in it, and I didn't dare to try and start it without pulling the plugs first. When I cranked it over to shoot the water out I heard an awful CLUNK and looked at the oilpan and saw two holes in it right under my #1 cylinder. I must've just gotten really unlucky because I've had Jeeps get a LOT more water in them and run fine afterwards, and I've definitely been through deeper holes and been fine. That sucks. Where ya located?
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Jul 7, 2008 13:33
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Finally have the time to paint up the ol XJ this week. Had a picture of the primered version back on page 2 of this thread, but here are the new pics. Specs: 1984 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, Dark Chestnut Metallic Clearcoat (paint code), 2.5L 4 cyl "Hurricane", 4x4, 120K miles on the clock, and best of all -- FREE. Drove it home. The night I got the XJ. Fresh from the carwash. Lots of rust and some jackass undercoated the doors and hood so it trapped in water and REALLY went nutz on the steel..  Another shot of the drivers side. Used a propane torch and putty knife to remove the undercoating. Angle grinder to remove the "scale". Many hours of sanding, grinding and applying phosphoric acid to kill any rust have worked out very well.  Here it is currently in the garage.. I had started painting this side a nice metallic blue clearcoat last fall. But after taking it through the woods many times playing in the snow, the nice shiny paint was HOSED with scratches. I sorta wanted an olive-drab Jeep anyways and this paint should hold up much better than the cheap spray-can stuff I was using..  The drivers side. This is only after 2 coats of very thinned paint on my way to 10 or so. Still have alot of trimming to do around the doors and body joints with a foam brush, but overall it's really turning out excellent. Very smooth and "lusterless". I will wet sand with 400 grit every 3 coats or so and leave the last few coats unsanded. I am not concerened with the rusty rocker panels and I will be welding 2" square tubes there anyway.  Oh.. BTW.. The paint is being applied with a roller and foam brush! Really REALLY turns out nice. Goes on like glass and dries to a nice smooth low luster finish. Recipe I used.. 1 quart Rustoleum Stops Rust Rusty Metal Primer (RED), 1 quart Rustoleum Dark Hunter Green Glossy, 1 quart 100% Mineral Spirits. Mix both quarts of paint in a new empty 1 gallon can. Stir VERY well. Transfer about 1 cups worth to paint pan and thin with 100% mineral spirits to a consistancy of water. Use 4 inch dense foam roller and squeaze out excess paint before rolling. Seriously. One roller full will do about half of the hood with one coat. I figure that the pressure I am rolling it on with will drive the paint deeper into imperfections and such so the protection will be greater. Cool thing is it dries very quickly as the paint is thinned alot. The last coat was applied just before this picture was taken. The paint is curing to a VERY hard finish. And with the high zinc content of the "Stops Rust paint", and it's ability to last a LONG time on outdoor railings, mailboxes and trailers I am sure that it will last on my garaged Jeep.  When done painting, I will black out the remainng chrome and re-tint the windows. Thinking of stencilling on flat-black markings, but I need ideas. Any ideas on markings and where to apply them to make it appear more "official"?
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Jul 11, 2008 05:52
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[Markdown] Head over to jeepforum.com and hit up the Cherokee (XJ) Tech Section and read the FAQs etc. TONS of information on EVERY available lift kit for the XJ and what to expect. You cannot do a body lift on an XJ as there is no frame. 
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Jul 23, 2008 21:03
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ethanol posted:New question: Since you didn't tell us what year, model and engine this Jeep has/is, I am going to reference my 1990 F-150.. I had to replace my power steering pump on my '90 F-150 5.0 a while back as it was making a whining noise on slow turns. Now my '84 Cherokee has just started groaning at low speed and the power steering assist just stops. It worked fine before I replaced the hoses. I think some dirt/mud fell into the hose connects as I was replacing them. Now I get to replace the pump. Fun.
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Jul 28, 2008 16:00
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Atticus_1354 posted:Has anyone added auxiliary lighting to the roof of their cherokee? If so could you show me how you routed your wiring? I am going to be getting a pair of IPF lights and want to mount them to one of the stock roof crossbars. Depends on what year you have. On my 99 there are grommets between the front and rear doors on the pillars. Pull the inside trim and run the wires down there to the relay packs that you ARE going to use. My 84 doesnt have the holes, so I am going to be more creative I guess.
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Sep 26, 2008 05:20
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leica posted:Also what are good ways to prevent rust? My current XJ is rust free and I'd like to keep it that way. I've had a few ideas.....Like slathering the entire underside with POR15 and/or buying a pressure washer and spraying off the underside with HOT water every few weeks.....Any ideas? Wellp, the only way I have found is to live in California. I had an '86 XJ earlier this year that had zero body rot. It was from Cali. Water is your biggest fear unless you live in a Nothern state that sees snow and SALT. Look into the cheap rubberized undercoating spray cans at Wally World. Give the underside a nice hot cleaning and let dry for a few days or more. Then spray the body seams and such with this nasty stuff. I am going to hit WalMart and get more of the Mar-Hyde Rubberized Undercoat spray and hit up the underside of my '99 too. I am still wearing this crap from this morning with I was spraying my '84s new floorpans. Evil stuff. Here is what I found on my '84 XJ a few weekends ago.. YAY! It's fun when the front of the drivers seat is tipping forward and being held up by the carpet.  Aint life grand.. Went through a few metal cutoff wheels for my grinders while removing all the cancer down to clean metal. Heavy zinc paint on all the exposed fresh metal before the new sheetmetal goes in.  But wait! After about 40 hours of heavy guage sheet metal work and serious frame rebuilding with angle iron, I have this now!  Finally get fresh heavy steel for my new front seats to bolt to! Drilling through 1/4 angle steel on the frame was lame since I can't find my regular drill and am stuck using my rechargable that lasts about 20 minutes per charge. w00t. No more rocking chair for me while driving!  Finally done. Need to hit the underside with heavy undercoating now too.  
Slack3r fucked around with this message at 07:47 on Oct 10, 2008 |
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Oct 10, 2008 07:42
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I think on jeepforum.com there is a company selling the headlight harness. Check the FAQs and stickies in the cherokee forum.
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Nov 7, 2008 16:08
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I have been on NAXJA for a few years. Paying member of jeepforum.com and a member of cherokeeforum.com.
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Nov 8, 2008 00:09
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MrZig posted:Ok I have a major update with my transfer case problems. As some of you may know, my NP242 would bang and clunk like I was hitting a pothole, only when it was in 4x4. Theres your problem. You probably b0rked the transfer case driving around in full-time 4. That's the WORST thing you can do to a 4x4. Full time 4 is for LOOSE surfaces (Snow, sand, very loose gravel, etc). You put your entire driveline in a serious bind there. Start shopping for a new 242.
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Dec 19, 2008 05:52
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Ninja Dan posted:My dad and I are trying to get the lock cylinder out of my jeep cause the key is stuck in there, but we are at bit of an impass. We got the wheel off, got down through the turn signal assembly but now we can't figure out how to get the cylinder itself out. All of the guides I've consulted say to depress some switch which will release it and allegedly the switch is on the right somewhere but we've stuck a screw driver in every hole on this thing and had no luck Maybe you guys can help... here's even a picture of the bastard. Use a thin screwdriver in this slot and pry upwards a bit. If I remember its a little "tab" on the tumbler. Firmly pull the key as you are doing this. I think the key needs to be in "run" mode to release it. I fiddled with mine for about 5 minutes and it finally came out. Once you get it out you will see it's dead simple. I tossed my old tumbler or I could get a pic for ya of the tab.. 
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Dec 21, 2008 03:06
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Ninja Dan posted:Alright, so after tearing apart the whole steering column my dad and I finished up the work on the ignition lock, everything is working great. Then we put the wheel back on and much to my dismay there is a snap/clicking when I turn it coming from the engine compartment. When you turn it one way it does for a second and then it does it again when you turn it the other way. We looked in the engine compartment and can see that it is coming from a coupling on the steering shaft. I have looked all over alldata and autozone and can't find anything about this... any ideas? Pics please. Might want to hit up cherokeeforum.com also. Also Naxja.org and jeepforum.com. They have been a GREAT help. What year is your XJ Again?
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Dec 24, 2008 07:48
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Ninja Dan posted:It's a 93 Cherokee, just a 2 wheel drive. Here is the offending bastard: Here is a link to some great info on greatlakesxj.com. They even have your year. Enjoy. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html
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Dec 24, 2008 23:21
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Looks like the idler pulley. Should be a fairly straightforward replacement. A new one can be purchased at your local parts store for around $20. Yup. I had mine on my '92 seize up on the interstate once. Repaired it on a "cloverleaf" onramp in the middle of the night. Ran me $26 for the pulley and $24 for a new belt. Fun part is the belt adjustment. Need to loosen up all the bolts on the power steering pump and use the 13MM bolt underneath to move it in and out. Not sure on your '90 though, but on my '92 it was that way. The belt needs to be very tight or it will squeal. Simple fix.
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Jan 3, 2009 09:23
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Sits on Pilster posted:I'm having some problems getting the power steering pump to move at all. I feel like I'm missing a bolt or something. I've loosened (not removed) the two bolts on the back that seem to control the pivoting and am loosening the 13mm bolt on the right side (my perspective) until it's almost completely disconnected but the belt hasn't gained any slack whatsoever. I've had to take a part the whole air filter system to get to two of the bolts as well. There are three bolts on the front of the pump that I have slightly loosened to no avail. There is a third bolt hidden on the bottom edge of the pump I believe. It's a bear to get to as the airbox is in the way and it's tucked under the intake manifold. !!!! You need to loosen ALL the bolts. Even the top bracket bolt. !!!! Then the PS pump will basically fall down on the pivot points. I tried a hammer and busted my pulley (Plastic). Still works but has a chunk missing. Look for another bolt or two. Make sure that all the bolts are loose. Isn't that 13MM adjuster FUN! Lube up the threads on that as they have been known to rust up and even break off. Slack3r fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jan 4, 2009 |
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Jan 4, 2009 02:41
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CommieGIR posted:Oh ye gods I am about to buy another XJ... Heh.. You got the "bug". Since 2006 I have owned 4 or 5 XJs now. Finally down to 2 for now.
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Jan 4, 2009 04:21
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Ninja Dan posted:Hey guys! Just returned from the salvage yards. Managed to pick up the trim off the instrument panel to replace mine since it got broken when my radio was stolen a year ago. Only thing is, this one is faux wood finish and the old one was matte black/grey. NOOOO.. Ill trade ya straight up for a stock black bezel for the woodgrain one. I can ship too.. AUGH! Slack3r fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Jan 5, 2009 |
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Jan 5, 2009 01:03
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Or just slide the collar over and use a hoseclamp to keep it in place. Figure since 90 or so that all the XJs were solid axle with no disconnect anyway. Did it to my '84 just fine.
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Jan 19, 2009 02:36
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jonathan posted:The off-the-shelf kits are $18 and come with relays and everything. I might just get one, and take out the factory foglight harness, and rewire it with 10g wire so that it wont melt under heavy watts. Where can I find a pre-made headlight harness?? Where do I begin looking. Google and eBay are flooding me with rice. Any particular vendors handy?
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Jan 29, 2009 06:36
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yaffle posted:Can anyone give me a ballpark estimate for the cost of rebuilding the engine of an 88 Cherokee? Just slap in another 4.0 from a donor vehicle. Hit up craigslist in your area. Should find a nice 4.0 for less than rebuilding and dicking around with your dead one. Any one from 87 to 89 will work for ya. Unless your XJ is in great shape, then maybe shelling out the $$$ to rebuild it is worth it.Whats wrong with it?
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May 4, 2009 04:07
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fordham posted:This is the same Jeep I have - I always thought it shifted a little low, I'd rather it waited a bit longer to upshift. The drivers door speaker not working is common. My 99 XJs drivers speaker was dead when I got it too. I tapped into the wire behind the kick-panel and routed it back to the speaker. Works! Seems that the flexing of the harness b0rks the speaker wires. On the 4.0? Both my 99 and 92s 4.0 are smooth at idle and through the RPMs. I *do* have some lifter noise on my 92, but with over 225K miles on the clock, it's gonna have some lifter issues. Still runs great and pulls hard though.
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May 27, 2009 01:17
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RexSS345 posted:I'm looking for a little help on my 92 XJ. There are two very distincly different "clunks" coming from the front end: 'Sup '92 XJ buddy? I have a '92 project XJ along with my '99 daily driver XJ. My '92 is more fun to drive for some reason. Clunk is probably the LCA (lower control arms). You can see them extending from the "frame" to the front axle. The rubber bushings are probably worn out or missing. Lay under there and have someone or several someones bounce the front up and down. The "clunk" on low speed turns is probably your outer u-joints. The front axle does not have a "disconnect" on the 92s. My '92s front u-joints were flopping around in the cups and at first sounded like angry weasels when I turned sharply in 4WD in the snow. $20 each to have new ones pressed in including the cost of the joints. You need to pull the calipers, rotors and bearing hub assembly to slide the stub axles through the knuckles. The hub bearings are held in with 3 20-point bolts. I had great success hammering a craftsman 1/2 drive 1/2 inch 6 pointer on them and using a short pipe to bust them loose. Need to smack the socket off the bolt when you get it out though. The hub bearings usually need to be lightly hammered to remove. A can if PB Blaster will be your friend here. Start soaking ALL the bolts a few days before you start. Clean the knuckles where the hub bearings fit of all the rust and use Anti-Sieze on the surfaces. You WILL be replacing the hub bearings at some time and the anti seize WILL be your best friend next time.
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Jun 1, 2009 09:01
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LargeHardonCollider posted:Proud owner of a '88 Jeep Cherokee. Got it for $1250 with a 3" lift 33's and a locker. That is pure awesome there... Hahahhahahha.
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Nov 28, 2009 00:41
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Blizzard warning just posted for South Dakota! Will be playing out in the local streets tonight! Should be a hoot. 16 inches of snow predicted and 45MPH winds. 10 foot drifts in the forecast in rural areas too. Gonna stay in town I think. I have my Sony DV cam recording time-lapse out my balcony window for the next 72 hours. Should be interesting as the storm rolls in. My 92 XJ. Gonna be a blast. We haven't had snow like this since 1968 I guess. WHEE! Here it is again with it's awesome "rolled-on" $50 paint job. 
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Dec 24, 2009 23:51
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Dividend Special posted:^^^ Alrighty.. Start with a $200 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport off of Craigslist....  Pull into garage too see how bad the rust is. Oh shiiiii  Completely rebuild inner tubs, outer skin and "trunk" area with fresh 20 GA steel. Grind and topcoat with 'glass and sand sand sand.. Repeat on other side..  Once all the rust is removed and all the decals and as much trim as you can get off it are out of they way, proceed to mask off anything you don't want painted. Sanding AHOY! Need to bust through the factory peeling clearcoat so that the new paint will stick to the original finish..  Now to the supplies. 3 quarts of Valspar Anti-Rust Industrial Alkyd Enamel. OSHA Safety Yellow. 1 Gallon of hardcore mineral spirits (NOT the low odor), a 12 pack of 4 inch high-density rollers with pan. 1 Gallon can to mix the paint in and 1 more can to thin it with.  Oh NOO! What have I done!! Thin the paint till it's like milk. Slowly roll on with the roller till the vehicles covered. Let dry (2 hours for me in the garage in the winter) and coat again.  Blargh...  Here is the 7th coat. I wet sanded with 600 and 800 every other coat.  Rollin in action..  I cant remember what coat this was. I believe 10 or 11? It's amazingly smooth and very shiny. Awesome finish in person.  Finally done with 18 coats, final 1500/2000 wet sand. Awaiting the Herculiner on the new 2x6 1/4 steel rockers and lower doors.  Here is a shot of the whole thing after I Herculined the doors and rockers.. I hand rubbed the paint out with the red rubbing compound TWICE all around and then waxed with a bottle of OLD Turtle Wax Liquid. You know, the sand and diesel crap. I tried my TechWax2000 but the Valspar is waaaaay to tough even when it was still "green". Since baking in the South Dakota summer sun last summer, the paint has cured to a diamond like substance that even tree branches on trails cannot touch.  Here is how she sits today except that I have since painted my rims gloss black..  Here is my XJ the day I bought it..  NOTES: If you are changing colors like I did, you need to use little foam brushes and paint the door sills and such with straight paint. I cheated and used the Valspar Safety Yellow spray paint for under the rear bumper and under the tail lights. After you are done with all the metalwork, use a high zinc primer and paint all the metalwork underneath and inside. You then need to use rubberized undercoating on everything after you are done painting the body. This gives the metalwork paint time to cure underneath and such. I went through 6 cans of MarHyde Rubberized Undercoating from Wal-Mart. Menards, Lowes and Home Depot will stare at you funny when you ask for 1500 to 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper. I guess nobody does extreme finishing like my dad with shellac and needs 2000 grit between coats. Go to the nearest Hardware store and get the 3M paper. Walmart has the high grit stuff back in the automotive area by the touch up paint. The 600 grit "sponge backed" thin sanding pads seem to work great for the later coats. Start with 800 around coat 9 or so. Get a spray bottle from the dollar store and a large bucket. Use warm water and rinse constantly while sanding. Your skin WILL take on the color of the paint. Looked like I had liver problems for a month afterwords. The dry paint flecks stain your skin. :p The residue from wet sanding can be hosed off concrete easily. Dont worry about that. Now, the liquid paint will never come off the floor. BONUS: Here is my '84 XJ that I got for free a few years ago from a friend.  I rolled on the finish too, BUT made my own olive drab or "lusterless" finish with Rustoleum Enamels. Decided to pin the doors for easy removal for those summer night cruises. Sold it because having three XJs is a bit much. I miss it sometimes. I see it pop up on Craigslist once in a while, but either I dont have the cash for it at the time or I have other projects. sigh    Slack3r fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Dec 25, 2009 |
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Dec 25, 2009 07:43
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Nebakenezzer posted:Nice. I'm hoping to do the same thing to my old Toyota this summer. Paint nub question: what are you sanding in between coats? I am using 600 and 800 grit wet or dry sandpaper dunked in a bucket of warm water. Then I sanded the "bumpy" layer off the fresh dried paint all around. Just barely breaking the top finish to smooth any imperfections away. Then towel dry and apply another coat with the roller. Repeat many times..
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Dec 29, 2009 01:29
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fordham posted:If you have no records you should change every drop of oil in the thing. Do NOT use the Mopar tranny fluid in the AW4. It will cause it to slip and overheat causing possible damage. Drain the Mopar fluid and replace with Dex/Merc III. As stated before, the AW4 is NOT a Mopar tranny. Its a Toyota and uses plain old Dex/Merc ATF. Yes, I change my PS fluid too.
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Jan 21, 2010 09:27
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