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CommieGIR posted:Engines I'm looking at:
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Mar 4, 2008 02:08
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Chairon posted:So where does everyone go offroading? I'm in the middle of CA, and i'm constantly hearing talk of tons of Fire roads and offroad trials, but I can't seem to find any. You have to be willing to drive a little bit. Maybe you went to Prarie City SVRA? Most of the good stuff is in the eastern half of the state, such as the Tahoe area, the area around Shaver Lake, and quite a bit of the Mojave desert. The Mojave in particular is dotted with a couple of wide-open vehicle recreation areas, as well as having tons of dirt roads on BLM land running up into the hills. Closer to LA there's the region around the Hungry Valley SVRA and Mt Pinos, where you can get both the wide-open recreation area and the mountain fire roads, some of which are legitimate 4wd trails (i.e. go prepared). There are also trails up around Lake Arrowhead outside of LA. There is Hollister Hills SVRA out near Santa Cruz, which is sort of like Prarie City but has its own separate 4wd park (no bikes) with a full range of trails from mild to extreme, along with a "playground" area that has a rock-crawling section, tire pit, mud pit, hills climbs etc. Then there's Oceano Dunes in Pismo Beach, which is all sand. Most of these areas would probably require you to commit a whole weekend to make the trip worthwhile with all the highway driving that's involved, but that's the reality of living near a population center rather than living out in the sticks. Take a look at some of the books on this list for more ideas and details: http://www.amazon.com/4WD-California/lm/R37XZMNV2FPECL/ref=cm_lmt_srch_f_1_rsrssi0
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Mar 17, 2008 17:26
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Disciple of Pain posted:Do all Dana 44's have a recessed drain plug in the bottom? I had previously thought that drain plugs (as opposed to just popping off the plate) were a Toyota thing (where there is no plate, just a removeable third which is actually awesome, but too involved for just changing the fluid)? MB's and GPW's didn't use D44's, which is why you're confused. D44's don't have drain plugs in the bottom. D44's showed up in Jeeps starting with the CJ-3A. You're probably referring to Spicer 23's if you're talking about MB and GPW Jeeps.
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May 16, 2008 06:24
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Will regular metal blades on a sawzall cut through 3/16 inch steel? Will I need lots of blades? I do not have access to plasma.(I have to shorten my rocker guard/sliders) Yes, they will cut 3/16" steel, albeit slowly. I'm partial to the Milwaukee brand "Torch" metal cutting sawsall blades. If you're cutting fairly long straight lines, consider a metal-cutting abrasive saw blade for your 7" circular saw, or a metal-cutting abrasive blade for your angle grinder. This is an abrasive circular saw blade, if you're not familiar with them: http://www.mikestools.com/DW3511-DeWalt-7-x-1-8-Metal-Abrasive-Saw-Blade.aspx Commonly available at most home improvement stores, welding supply shops etc.
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Jul 4, 2008 05:05
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:LIBERTY on the RUBICON. I think I must have missed that obstacle on the Rubicon. Maybe because that obstacle is actually in Moab.
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Jul 21, 2008 21:15
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Polish posted:I am going to be needed new tires soon.. and I want something a little meaner looking than my stock. I would like to get 31-32" tires, but that would require a body lift. Does anyone have a step by step guide on how to install a body lift on a 2000 XJ? Google just gives me Silverados and 07 Rubicons.. Your Google results should have been the first clue. Jeep saw fit to build the XJ as a unibody vehicle without a separate frame. Therefore you can't use a body lift kit, as there's nowhere to put it. Suspension lifts and cutting the fenders are your only options for fitting larger tires.
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Aug 23, 2008 14:27
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EightBit posted:Lifting Jeeps reduces the camber angle (which gives the return to center action). When you get adjustable control arms to counteract the change in camber and pinion angles that occurs with lifts, people tend to favor getting the pinion angle back in line as having that out will thrash your drivetrain. Caster Caster is the fore/aft inclination of the kingpin axis that affects the self-centering characteristics of the steering.
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May 6, 2010 13:48
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mod sassinator posted:Speaking of vibrations, I just had new 2.5" lift springs & stock shackles put on my '99 XJ to replace the sagging stock springs and 2" shackle lift. To prevent vibrations the shop put on a 6 degree shim for the axle too. I've noticed at 55-60mph there's a very slight vibration though, just enough to feel in my feet and hear (sounds like loud tires). Are there any cheap and easy ways to reduce vibrations? I don't think I'm ready to go for a full SYE--would lowering the transfer case ~1/2" be an option? You install shims on a spring perch to do one of two things. If you have a driveshaft without a CV joint on it (just a simple upper and lower u-joint), then theoretically the output of your t-case and the pinion of your rear axle should be parallel to each other (though offset vertically obviously). For instance, if the output of your t-case was perfectly horizontal, your rear pinion should also be perfectly horizontal, not tilted up at the t-case. This way both u-joints assume the same operating angle and don't vibrate at speed. A shackle lift can throw off the axle's pinion angle, making it no longer parallel with the t-case output, so degree shims may help correct that situation. Also consider that on a leaf-spring rear axle, the pinion will tend to twist upwards a few degrees when power is applied moving forward, so your static angle is different than the normal operating angle at speed. On the other hand, if you have a cv joint on your rear driveshaft at the t-case end, then ideally your rear pinion should point up at the t-case output so that there is no angle on the driveshaft u-joint at the pinion. The CV joint should take care of all of the operating angle, and run smoothly. In this case, you'd again use degree shims to point the axle pinion up, but it's a different value than when you lack a CV joint (as described above). It's possible that the 6 degree shim was too aggressive, or it may not be enough, depending on all the other variables in your suspension/driveline. A slightly different shim might cure your problems, or you might just have to learn to live with a little vibration at certain speeds.
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Sep 28, 2010 00:19
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Philip J Fry posted:The transfer case is only part-time and the axle shafts aren't being allowed to slip properly on the travel surface. By design it's great for sand, ice, mud, snow, etc. but there's way too much traction on pavement and this causes binding and stress in the front end components (not good). Sure, the shafts still spin somewhat independently even though they're in an open carrier but not enough to offset full vehicle weight on non-articulated dry pavement with the engine weight over them. I don't think this is entirely correct. It doesn't have anything to do with the transfer case if the rear driveshaft is disconnected. The binding/releasing you're feeling is primarily due to the u-joints in the front axle, which don't rotate (when the wheels are turned) as smoothly as a CV joint in you typical front-wheel drive car. The u-joints oscillate, and you can often feel this and occasionally hear it as well. Yours might be worse than normal, so you might want to give them a once-over and perhaps grease them if they're serviceable.
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Apr 18, 2011 18:09
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