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Honk. Ahh that picture brings back good memories, and it was only last year! Can't wait for some more. '89 Cherokee 4.0L 5 Speed, rusted all to poo poo. Gonna paint it Tremclad glossy black this spring 
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Feb 19, 2008 19:27
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Nice looking Comanche! And if you don't want those roof lights, give them to me! I absolutely adore the way they make any truck look. Get a picture of them on at dusk will ya? Also, I'm currently doing an AX-15 swap in my '89 Cherokee. It had a peugeot and it's starting to grind in every gear and it has horrid driveline slack. The swap is fairly straight forward. Take the AX-15 and a 23 spline transfer case, and measure the input shaft on the AX-15 to make sure your pilot bearing will work. If not, one from a V8 CJ-5 will work I believe. I personally took an AX-15 out of a 1990 XJ, and an NP242 from a 91 XJ. That way I will have AWD (well, full time 4x4) for dirt roads and winter time. Whee! Total cost is around 300 bucks for everything. Gotta love self serve junkyards. Also I love that blue
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May 12, 2008 01:53
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russ6570 posted:alright drat dude, that looks sharp. Kinda makes me wish I had a Comanche now. That blue is killer. Throw a 3" lift and 31's on that and you'll have yourself a badass truck. Also, why does your shifter knob look like it's from an Auto?
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May 14, 2008 00:38
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Out of three forums I've posted in, JeepForum, NAXJA, and JeepsUnlimited, I would say that NAXJA is the best one to post in as they're a pretty decent group. There's also a few very knowledgeable people there. I go by the name "MattBred" there. JeepForum is OK as well, though I don't go there much.
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May 14, 2008 04:12
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Atticus_1354 posted:I find jeep forum is a good way for someone to get in to tech. They are more helpful with small tech stuff. I do love naxja though and will be buying a membership there. Do you post at NAXJA? What's your username there?
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May 14, 2008 04:29
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russ6570 posted:So, my Comanche has a set of Hankook radials on it currently, size 215/75 R15. What are some decent, fairly inexpensive all-terrain tires that would fit my rims? I would like to do some mild off roading this summer, and the tires on it now are definatly not going to cut it 30"x9.50 will be the max depending on your current suspension. Anything wider will rub on your control arms (need new rims), and anything taller will definitely rub your fenders. Edit: 30's may still rub your suspension even from the factory. You're 100% safe with 235/75/r15 if your leafs aren't sagged. I'd still go with 30's though. MrZig fucked around with this message at 02:20 on May 20, 2008 |
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May 20, 2008 02:08
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I finished swapping in an AX15 & NP242 combo into my '89 Cherokee XJ. My jeep was immobile for 7 days, but I took the week off. I didn't want to rush anything. Hot drat, for a tranny with 350,000 KMs, and a transfercase with 250,000 KMs, it shifts and runs beautifully. The clutch could use a little more bleeding as it's fairly soft but drat I'm happy. I'm going to make a huge writeup for NAXJA and I'll post the link here when I'm done. Have lots of pictures and will write all the problems I encountered and how to fix them so hopefully it'll help more people to do it.
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May 24, 2008 03:30
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Holy crap, I didn't realize Herculiner came in colors other than black. Anyone tried one of those? It insulates alright, no where near as good as carpet+proper insulation does though. You'll hear a lot more and the heat will come through a lot more, unless you go crazy thick with about 4 coats - that should insulate like carpet would. Stupid question megathread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2341562
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May 31, 2008 01:16
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Hobo Camp posted:Anyway. Maybe someone can help me with an issue I've been having. Someone told me it might be the shock absorbers, but I'm not sure. When I go above 50 in the highway and drive through a pot hole or even a tiny crack on the road, my Jeep starts shaking really bad (feels like the tires are gonna come off or are loose). I have to practically stop in the middle of the highway for it to stop, and then I can start driving again. It's really aggravating and dangerous as hell. Jeep death wobble! Check your track bar. It's the most common source for DW to occur. It could also be a mixture of tire pressures, worn out suspension components, misalignment, unbalanced tires all leading into a bad shake. But more often than not it's a bad or loose track bar.
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Jun 3, 2008 06:49
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Veeb0rg posted:or a blown/worn steering stablizer A blown/worn steering stabilizer should not cause death wobble. A properly working stabilizer can hide DW, but it won't cause it. It's worn out, or out of spec, suspension components.
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Jun 5, 2008 06:26
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RexSS345 posted:My dad's new ride. 2.5" Skyjacker lift and a few other odds and ends. More pics here. If he's going to beat the piss out of it, I'd probably lose the chrome if I were him. It's going to flake off and then rust from underneath. How is driving one of those things? I got in one at a dealership and the clutch pedal had HUGE amounts of movement till it hit the floor, and it felt pretty damned light as well. Something which would take a while to get used to, I'd think. Speaking of wranglers, what's the general consensus on YJ's? I might sell my '89 XJ and buy a YJ next year. I'd get one with the 4.0L and AX15 only.
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Jun 5, 2008 06:29
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If you're cutting the rockers out, you might want to try and pick up some scrap steel and make some custom home made rock rails. I spose if you're just beating the poo poo out of it you probably wouldn't mind crunching up your doors anyways eh?
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Jun 7, 2008 21:34
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Disciple of Pain posted:I'm going to use 2"x3" or 3"x3" rectangular steel tubing. Something like that, and simply weld/bolt it in place of the stock rockers. I'm likely taking the doors off for good, though anyway. I may take a look at the hinges and see how hard it would be to make some simple tube-doors, but I probably won't care enough for that right away. Awesome. You could always put on a quieter flowmaster (since they are super tough, I dont care for the sound that much though) and dump it right under the cab. That would be the most ideal and toughest exhaust, but also the worst sounding probably. And then you got the problem of exhaust coming into the cab.
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Jun 8, 2008 19:38
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Someone in the Okangan, British Columbia, should buy this: http://kelowna.en.craigslist.ca/car/676733895.html Looks awesome, and runs good as far as I know (it's a friend's friend's)
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Jun 10, 2008 02:23
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:There isn't any room in there, that's the real problem. The only thing that will physically fit is a 1/4" ratchet with a 9/16" socket. I can't even fit my box-end wrench over the bolt, the ring is too thick to go between the bolt and case. The head on the bolt is too short and my socket keeps slipping off. For some reason that bolt head is different from all the others. And the vacuum diaphragm that locks the center diff is in the way to get an extension to use a bigger ratchet. It's just a big mess. The bolt is a reverse torx I THINK. And it's really long. Hmm it might not even be a reverse torx. When I had my transfercase out I had to take it out with a vice grip. Edit: You can see it circled here: 
MrZig fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Jul 1, 2008 |
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Jul 1, 2008 23:52
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Is that a 242? I have a BW1339. And the bolt I'm working on is definitely hex. Oh, sorry my bad. I thought you had the typical 231/242. In that case, I dunno. Edit: Oh and yeah it was a 242 - read the label? MrZig fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Jul 2, 2008 |
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Jul 2, 2008 03:48
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Rhyno posted:I need new wheels for my Cherokee! Huge lift with 30" tires? What kind of huge lift are you thinking of? 30" is pretty small in the world of off road tires. If you want slightly larger than stock with NO chance of rubbing, as long as your suspension isnt sagged, then go with 235/75/r15. 30" will be the most a stock cherokee can do with minimal rubbing. 31+ will rub lots without lifts and bumpstopping. Personally I'd go with 235's if you want no chance, and 30" if you dont mind adding a bigger bumpstop or a washer to your steering stop IF it rubs. Nothing major. Also for tire choice I'd go with BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO. Very popular tire, long tread life, not much noise, decent off road traction, and good in snow.
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Jul 3, 2008 22:27
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Bolt pattern for stock XJ/YJ/TJ is 5x4.5 I think.
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Jul 4, 2008 02:35
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Local classifieds:quote:
I've been wanting an old Willy's for awhile.. There's one a few blocks away from my house too, though it's not for sale. I'd love an old Willy's, and it seems like it's pretty cheap too. Hm. If anyone lives in the Okanagan (BC) area, buy it! ..then give it to me.
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Jul 4, 2008 08:34
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Vaporware posted:They're not that rare, the frame and running gear in total aren't worth $2500 running. They're rare around here. Every one I've seen (and I havn't seen ANY for sale, just in guys back yards) are all rusted to absolute poo poo. I'm going to take a look at this one if he still has it. If you know some guys with Willy's in the Okanagan area, fuckin' let me know. My dad wants to go halfers on one and restore it with me, as he used to own a 1948 or '49, I can't remember.
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Jul 7, 2008 21:28
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First of all, my 4wd lights aren't working - I'll fix that later. I got an Np242 with the full time option, and on the highway if I shift from 2wd into 4x4 Full Time, it'll sometimes stick in part time, and then every 10 seconds or so I'll get a "pop" from the t-case and a jostle in the jeep. I think it's because one of my tires is really low on pressure. Anyways, I took it home and found out that when I put it in full time, even though the lever moves nicely and it sticks in it, it still stays in part time. I hooked up the 4x4 light and it confirms that it's still engaged in part time. Yet if I move the linkage to 4-low and back to full time, it now properly engages full time. So I'm thinking linkage, right? Well it's not that simple. Thing is, if I were to move it back, I wouldn't be able to engage 4-low. 4-low and 2wd are both on the fine line at each ends of the spectrum and it seems that if I adjust the linkage in any way, I either lose 2wd or 4-low. What to do? Take out the center console and grind out the metal shifter gate to allow some more movement with the shifter? The bushings and linkage look fine and there's no real excess play. '89 Cherokee AX15 NP242 by the way.
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Jul 19, 2008 20:59
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Sits on Pilster posted:Tires? 235/75/r15's are more like 28" tires I think. Definitely not 30". You can fit 235's without any rubbing on a stock jeep. If you want the best performance and mileage with stock gears, 225's will be the best bet. And as far as tire recommendations go, I'd say go with BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO. Very good street tire, snow tire, and dirt tire. Not good for mud but it isn't a mud tire. Seems like its what you want. They also have excellent tread wear. Keep in mind that with each inch of tire, you gain 1/2" in ground clearance. So if you go from 30" to 27" you will lose 1.5" of ground clearance.
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Jul 24, 2008 22:16
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OneOverZero posted:235/75/R15 measured out to about 29.3" on my XJ. According to http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html, a 235/75/R15 is 28.9". So around 29".
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Jul 25, 2008 02:05
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Tire measurements are [width in mm]/[sidewall height as % of width]/[wheel diameter in inches]. So (235*0.75*2)/25.4 + 15 = 28.9" It varies tire to tire though. It's not going to be exactly 28.9". Cherokees came stock with either 215's or 225's.
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Jul 25, 2008 05:29
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russ6570 posted:a few Comanche questions- Comanches have stiffer springs, they are also spring under. They have a variable rear brake proportional valve, according to the load in the truck bed. They have a 'frame' that extends past the unibody so as to make it more truck-like. (Enabling you to take the bed off of the frame). Some had bench seats. To replace the gauge cluster, all you need to do is replace the idiot light sensors with variable resistance sensors. The wiring is all there I believe.
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Jul 26, 2008 21:44
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russ6570 posted:Unrelated question- My 87 Comanche (4.0, AX-5 transmission) has a really bad fast idle condition that occurs only at startup. It occurs hot, cold, when its wet outside, when its 90 degrees and sunny, but it doesn't do it every time I start it. I am stumped, any help? Welcome to the world of RENIX (87-90) ECU's.. Almost every post I see about an idle problem has the RENIX era XJ/MJ. I'm not sure what causes it, but I get the same problem randomly. It's very embarrasing to start your engine up and have it rev to 3000 RPM's and have to restart it about 3 times before it comes down. I believe it could be the relay that keeps power to the Jeep after it gets shut off, or it could be the IAC or wiring to the IAC. It can also be a TPS..
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Aug 2, 2008 22:42
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Atticus_1354 posted:Mine just started doing this after I took it offroading and camping. I went through a lot of very large puddles to get to my camp site, so I was thinking I may have fried the TPS. What does everyone think? How hard is it to swap a TPS? You have a pre 1991 Jeep? It's not too difficult. I've done it. All you need is a voltmeter and the required torx tools to set it up right. I think it might have to do with a weird ground. If I check the voltage with the TPS ground, it's something like 8.12 volts, yet if I use the battery ground with the voltmeter it's 8.7 volts or something similiar. Yet using the ohmmeter, the resistance is perfectly fine. Also, resetting the computer seems to put it off for awhile. The RENIX system is very strange.
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Aug 5, 2008 23:47
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Atticus_1354 posted:It is a 1990 cherokee and I haven't had a chance to buy the guide yet as this is the first major problem. Should I get Chilton or Haynes for the cherokee? A Chilton/Haynes is always good to have but I'm not sure that they talk about adjusting the TPS. You might want to do a search at NAXJA (http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=44) and search for "Throttle Position Sensor adjust*" or something along those lines. It's been brought up many times before. Basically at idle position, you want the A & B terminals (I think it's A & B) to read 0.8 volts.
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Aug 6, 2008 05:46
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^^ The 4.0L definitely loves basic plugs. Special plugs will make it run worse, so it could definitely be that. Sorry to tell you the obvious, heh.
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Aug 31, 2008 08:54
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Hey, chiming in here again with my '89 XJ 4.0. I posted a thread on Naxja (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=970124) about my distributor. This is the post if you can't be bothered to click the link: quote:I pulled my distributor today to replace the gasket (actually the gasket wasn't even there) and I noticed that the middle of the gears were all worn and shiney. By worn I mean that the middle was about half the width of the ends of the gear. So anyone know a thing or two about distributors?
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Oct 8, 2008 23:45
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incredibull posted:Your pic doesn't work.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. ^^The distributor gear and camshaft sortof look like that. When I had the distributor out, the distributor shaft would move up and down a quarter inch from the part that the cap screws on to. I'll take a video tomorrow of it in the engine (it's too dark right now.) I do have a misfire issue.. When it's cold, it'll run really rough, and it'll frequently stall on the first or second stop sign. When it's warmed up it runs good but still chugs as soon as you let the clutch out and give it gas. Not sure if it's a timing problem. The reason I took the distributor out in the first place is to fix an oil leak - I could see it bubbling and coming out of the block haha. MrZig fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Oct 9, 2008 |
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Oct 9, 2008 03:35
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Disciple of Pain posted:I think it might have an aftermarket rear hatch? Does that exist. It seems like it is non-metallic to me (I'd say CF but I'm guessing fiberglass?). Does that exist? Doesn't bother me much as the paint matches FLAWLESSLY in person. Nice jeep. I think all Cherokees had fiberglass rear hatches until 97+ when they went to metal. Not sure if it's 97 or another year, but that's factory.
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Oct 14, 2008 18:36
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Roger_Mudd posted:I am the proud owner of a 2006 Jeep Wrangler SE (24,000 miles), it has the 4 cylinder engine and a manual tranny. Check your trackbar. It should be completley snug. Here's a picture for reference:  Click here for the full 797x498 image.
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Oct 20, 2008 19:11
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Roger_Mudd posted:Mine looks different but I located what I believe is the trackbar and it was snug as a bug Did you check it near the mount? A loose trackbar is the cause of 90% of all bad jeep wobbles. Check your tie rods and joints too, then.
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Oct 20, 2008 19:28
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If anyone comes by a Willy's flat fender Jeep in the British Columbia or even Alberta area, can you let me know? My email is in my profile. I've been watching Band of Brothers lately and it occured to me just how useful a Willy's would be for hunting trips, especially once I throw in a Cummins 4BT and lockable front and rear axles. I want one so bad it's torture.
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Oct 20, 2008 22:58
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leica posted:Please explain, I've never heard of this. You mix some of the XJ springs with some of the stiffer S10 springs and it can give you a few inches of lift, with much better ride quality than an add a leaf. Do a search on NAXJA or JeepForum about it, it's pretty well covered.
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Oct 27, 2008 18:46
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Does anybody have the link to the old Jeep commercial advertising the 4.0L? It was an amazing commercial and I've since lost it and havn't been able to find it.  Edit: Holy poo poo I found it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r51zDVrzEB8&feature=related Such an amazing ad. MrZig fucked around with this message at 08:14 on Oct 28, 2008 |
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Oct 28, 2008 08:12
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Cat Hatter posted:Even with all the talk of how good the 4.0L is, I'm always surprised by how easily it pulls this 5,000 pound bastard up the boat launch. Also, considering that my leaf springs are made almost entirely out of rust at this point I'm surprised the back end stays off the axle (that front wheel on the trailer isn't supporting any weight). Tell me about it. I always thought the rear leafs in my '89 were in great shape until I replaced the shocks. Turns out they were load leveler shocks with the springs on them - as soon as I hammered it off, the back end fell down an inch or two. It's still doing better than a coworker's 98 whos leaf springs were actually INVERTED. I don't know how it even functioned.
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Oct 29, 2008 08:59
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^^How the hell is that worth $20,000!? Honestly, I want to know what parts make up that much money. That's just mind blowing.
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Nov 4, 2008 03:26
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| # ¿ May 1, 2024 16:20 |
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My cherokee has a vibration from the driveline that is quite audible and you can feel it in your butt and feet, but it only happens when I'm in 4x4. My driveshaft spins all the time, and this exact same thign happend with a completley different transfer case and drive shaft. Any ideas what it could be? Front axle U joints maybe?
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Nov 6, 2008 05:15
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