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incredibull posted:What year is it? Many Cherokees have an internal vacuum lock in the front axle that disconnects the outer ends of the axleshafts from the diff when not in 4x4. 1989. It has the vacuum disconnect, but I put washers so it's always connected. That way the driveshaft always spins and there aren't any 4x4 reliability problems. Thing is, with everything turning all the time, how come I only get vibration when I'm in 4x4? I had it in both transfercases and two seperate front driveshafts so I really don't think those are the culprit. Starting to lean towards the front U joints.
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Nov 7, 2008 00:09
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Okay update! I jacked up the front end so that both wheels were off the ground, and spinning the wheels normally at full lock the U Joints seemed fine. However I started the jeep and put it in full time 4x4, and at full lock when I release the clutch out all the way I get this horrible HORRIBLE knocking, clanging and banging sound from underneath the jeep. I don't have anyone to help me diagnose it yet, but there's definitely a lot of banging of some sorts from under there. Going straight there's no noise but it gets progressively worse the more you turn it, and at full lock the entire jeep is shaking with every bang.
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Nov 7, 2008 01:02
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Donnie Darko posted:Since I bought my 2000 Cherokee Sport I've had a blast. The only major problem I've run into is that the headlights provide some of the absolute poorest visibility around. The bulbs looked alright when I checked them out with my buddy, but on the road at night, especially in rain, they seem really dim. Upgrade the wire harness so that it uses a relay and a thicker wire to the lights. If you don't, and you upgrade, you could have a fire hazzard. Apparently the stock wiring for the lights are crap and simply by upgrading the harness, you improve the stock light output.
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Nov 7, 2008 01:42
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Okay it turns out the bucking I had when I jacked up the front end was the rear driveshaft turning back and forth trying to move. It only really tries to move when I turn at full lock however. Should that be happening? Do I possibley have a screwed up transfer case?
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Nov 7, 2008 04:20
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incredibull posted:Unless you pulled the rear driveshaft, I'm not sure how you managed to engage the clutch in 4x4 with only the front end in the air and not have the Jeep come flying off of the jackstands. Your magic is strong... Sorry I didn't mention that this is happening in 4x4-Full Time. The transfer case has a center differential, and with the front end jacked up, should send all power to the front. All the banging noise was the rear driveshaft trying to turn as well, but since it was on the ground, it couldn't. I'm still mistified why it crowhops around tight corners and bangs going straight.. No locking hubs. The transfer-case I swapped in (the NP242) had 240,000 KM's on it and the innards looked fine from what I could tell. Edit: I might have figured it out. At full lock, perhaps the U-Joints are binding, causing the front end to resist more which makes the transfercase want to push the read end? Seeing as how it is a differential, it wants to put power to the weakest spot. Maybe at a certain speed, at a certain tightness of turning, the U Joint is binding causing it to want to send power to the rear driveshaft. The wheel turns fine by hand at full lock, but that isn't going very fast. That's the only thing I can think of that would make it want to turn the rear driveshaft when I turn the wheels - what else would make it do that? MrZig fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Nov 7, 2008 |
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Nov 7, 2008 04:31
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Disciple of Pain posted:I have no idea, but I wouldn't do that anymore if I were you. If something is hosed up in the transfer case and the rear driveshaft is trying to move, you're lucky it didn't come off the stands. I've tested full time 4x4s similar to this but I would say a safer way is 4 wheels in the air, then engage the parking brake. I've also seen a guy I worked with use his bare hands, and then a block of wood to stop the wheels he wanted to stop on a Subaru. I looked up from the Jeep I was working on with amazement that he was about to grab a spinning tire without even nitrile gloves on. Anyway, it worked but it must have loving hurt because he use a 4x4 for the last 3 wheels. I forget what he was doing but he's a great mechanic (we were at a primative shop to put it mildly), ASE master, former rally mech, etc. I have no idea what he was thinking (he's also missing a piece of his finger from some other incident so I dunno). Well I did have the parking brake on, but yeah next time I'm going to jack up all the wheels. It just boggles my mind that it doesn't want to turn the rear driveshaft when the wheels are pointed straight, however when they're turned it wants to. It makes no loving sense unless my out-there hypothesis is correct. Also that sounds like a fun mechanic to work with.
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Nov 7, 2008 04:41
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leica posted:Alright, who the hell is RyleyF over in the NAXJA forums. Posting the AI moniker in the HHO thread kind of gave it away. Hahah I'm MattBred. I posted over there pretty much the same transerface issue I'm posting here. They don't like to answer too much though unless it's somethign like HHO.
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Nov 7, 2008 04:59
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Donnie Darko posted:Browsing around, just like you most people suggest upgrading the harness, but I also saw lots of recommendations to go to the Sylvania SilverStars which cost about $40 for both. I've found the SilverStars all over, but I can't find much information on harnesses except for build it yourself guides. If possible, I'd like to buy a premade kit, any suggestions where I can pick one up or what I should be searching for? There's been several people interested in doing something, but I don't think there's any that are actually pre-made and ready, yet. Edit: Could try PM'ing this guy: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=969949&highlight=harness
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Nov 7, 2008 07:00
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My 89 cherokee's rear diff's slip yoke moves side to side, up and down, and in and out enough to make noise if you do it by hand - could this be cause for concern? My front diff feels solid.
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Nov 26, 2008 03:40
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incredibull posted:Sounds like a worn pinion bearing, and you probably have a Dana 35, so it's likely. Yea its a D35. Would it explain harshness when getting on and off the throttle?
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Nov 26, 2008 04:16
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Jack_Handey posted:It's a rear u-joint. Ten bucks and about a half hour and you can fix it yourself. You just need a good bench vise and a good hammer and some sockets to beat on and that's about it. Except it's the actual yoke that's moving..
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Nov 26, 2008 05:35
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The U joint is pretty new actually, not even a year old, though I havn't greased it in a little while. I'll check the nut the next time I can, forsure. And when I had the drums and tire off, I could pull the hub out of the axle a good quarter inch. That was on the starboard side, I didn't try the other. I think my axle is just hosed, I mean it's a dana-35 with 375,000 KM's on it.. Time for a new (used) one!
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Nov 26, 2008 08:19
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Jack_Handey posted:God, getting a Cherokee up to temp when it's 10 degrees outside and you've got places you need to be sucks. In the summertime jeeps always like to overheat, but when it gets outside, the 4.0 takes a loving ridiculous amount of time to warm up. My Cherokee takes a good 10 minutes to even get decently warm air out of the vents. It might be because of a sticking (open) thermostat though.
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Nov 27, 2008 23:47
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Hah, I have a tire question too. '89 Cherokee, 4x4. My front right tire is bald on the outside, yet the inside has lots of tread depth left. Are my ball joints hosed? The other side is the same way although not nearly as extreme.
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Dec 4, 2008 03:24
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Edit: Posted a thread since its a more general question.
MrZig fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Dec 16, 2008 |
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Dec 16, 2008 06:33
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Ok I have a major update with my transfer case problems. As some of you may know, my NP242 would bang and clunk like I was hitting a pothole, only when it was in 4x4. For those who dont know, its an 89 XJ with the vacuum disconnect Dana-30, an AX15, and a 1991 NP242. Here's my update, crossposted from NAXJA: Major update. I drove around in full time 4x4 all around city and the backroads, and I was climbing a very steep hill in 2nd gear, lots of torque, and the bangs got louder and louder and finally at the top of the hill I got a collosaul BANG followed by grinding sounds and no power. I took it home in part-time as it didnt grind but the bangs in part time got tremendously worse. Finally at home, I put it in full time and let the clutch out when all I heard was a whirring sound and grinding. No movement to any wheels whatsoever. Part time and 4-low still worked. Here's my theory: My front Dana-30 was originally a vacuum disconnect, however in prep for the NP242 swap, I took out the vacuum lines and put washers to move the shift fork over permenently. Perhaps what is happening is for some reason the shift fork is letting go under different torque loads which frees up the front half the transfer case, and drive shaft. This is why I'm getting bangs in part time. The reason I'm getting worse bangs in full-time would be attributed to the fact that when the front axle 'disconnects', I lose all power since all the transfercase power is now shifted to the front end. The grinding sound I heard is exactly like the grinding sound I got when my front disconnect was malfunctioning earlier. However, when I got a camera and set it up under the jeep to see if the front driveshaft was spinning when I heard the grinding sound, it wouldn't do it anymore. Does this make sense to all of you?
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Dec 18, 2008 22:53
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Slack3r posted:Theres your problem. You probably b0rked the transfer case driving around in full-time 4. That's the WORST thing you can do to a 4x4. Full time 4 is for LOOSE surfaces (Snow, sand, very loose gravel, etc). You put your entire driveline in a serious bind there. Start shopping for a new 242. No, see, you're wrong. Full-time 4x4 is for.. full-time operation. On any surface. It has a center differential that lets the front and rear turn at different rates. Part-time is only for loose surfaces. Besides, all the roads here are snow-covered. From http://ezinearticles.com/?Jeep-Select-Trac-NP-242-Transfer-Case-Information&id=281045 quote:The NP 242 transfer case Full time mode opens the center differential allowing the front and rear axles to rotate at different speeds while still being linked by the transfer case. The end with the least traction will get the most torque. While this mode may have some disadvantages off road where a wheel may loose contact with the ground, it has the advantage of being usable on all paved surfaces. Part Time mode - with the center differential locks can only be used on loose or slick surfaces with out possible damage to the transfer case.
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Dec 19, 2008 06:35
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incredibull posted:I'm thinking there was a good possibility that the TC was "stuck" in part-time mode, either because of internal failure or because of incorrect linkage adjustment. If I put it in full-time mode, the FT light comes on, and if I jack up the front end, I can spin the front driveshaft freely. If I then stick it in part time, it locks. It's definitely getting into full-time mode properly. I drained it after a few hundred KMs when I first swapped it in, and the fluid looked good. I already took it apart back before I swapped it in, and took a pic:  Click here for the full 1024x681 image. I'm going to replace the two-piece axle shaft with a one-piece and I'll let you guys know if it fixes the problem. It's just so difficult to diagnose driveline bangs and shudders without throwing parts at it. If the axle shaft doesn't fix it, I'll buy another Np242 from the junkyard (they're $90) and throw it in..
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Dec 19, 2008 07:32
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I believe I have fixed my NP242 'bucking/banging' problem in 4x4. As I've said before, when in 4x4 and especially full-time, I would get a BANG now and then and one time it got so bad that I heard a BANG and then nothing but grinding sounds. I knew it wasn't popping out of gear because the lever never moved, and the 4x4 light's never changed or went out. The problem? My front vacuum disconnect. During the time I swapped the NP242 in, I moved the shift fork over with washers and nuts to permenently engage the two-piece axle shaft. I suppose it was either grabbing or shifting enough under different torque loads to cause it to free up and case the bang and grinding sounds. I spent the last few days tearing apart my front end and replacing the whole two-piece design with a simple one-piece shaft from the junkyard (off an '89 with an NP242 no less) and took it for a spin today. The results? Beautiful, beautiful full-time 4x4 with no more horrible banging sounds underneath. I drove for an hour and not ONCE did I get any odd noises. I took it up multiple hills, revved the crap out of it, cruised, etc, and couldn't get it to bang once. Problem hopefully solved! TLDR: Front vacuum disconnect must have been screwing up. Replaced with single-piece shaft and all is well! Winter is fun again!
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Dec 28, 2008 08:25
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w1ntermute posted:I'm usually fairly good at diagnosing my own car troubles. This one has me stumped, and I don't really have the time this week to tear down both hubs and/or the front drive shaft. I'm guessing a cherokee no younger than 1991? If so, I bet you it's your front vacuum axle disconnect screwing up.
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Jul 23, 2009 04:16
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w1ntermute posted:I should have said what the hell it was. I was staring at that thinking to myself "it couldn't be that, it's too obvious". It could also be the cardan joint on the front drive shaft. The front U-joint might be fine, but the complex joint at the transfer case side might be all fooked.
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Jul 23, 2009 04:30
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So I think my exhaust manifold is cracked. Click here for the full 752x500 image.  Click here for the full 1504x1000 image.  Click here for the full 1504x1000 image.  Click here for the full 1504x1000 image. It's on my 89 RENIX rig. What's the cheapest way to fix it? Braze it? Buy an aftermarket one from NAPA? I don't want to upgrade to an expensive header or anything. Oh by the way, this is all before the O2 sensor, and I still got 20 MPG on my last fillup.
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Sep 27, 2009 20:06
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FYI, everyone with an XJ, fix your cracked exhaust manifold! After welding mine up, and replacing my injectors with DIY-cleaned Lincoln Towncar 19# ones with new o-rings, I got 21mpg while pulling a flatdeck with 800 pounds on mountanious terrain. I was getting 17-18 before, empty. Totally worth it. Oh, and this is what it looked like after my weekend of hunting:  Click here for the full 1504x1000 image.  Click here for the full 1504x1000 image. Just for comparison on how far it's come - as I don't know if anyone remembered when I bought it - this is what it looked like 2 years ago:  Click here for the full 1504x1000 image. The only real thing I regret doing is taking the fender flares off and trimming. Really wasn't needed, and I miss my flares & fender liners. Oh well..
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Oct 20, 2009 00:53
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fordham posted:The last few years (I'm not sure which ones) used a new exhaust manifold that holds up much better. My parents' '94 GC's cracked at like 140k or so and they replaced it with one of the new ones. I cruise around 100 KPH (62 mph) so that might help. The XJ is a 1989 with the 4.0, AX15 manual tranny, 3.07's and 235/75/R15 tires. I went with lighter blue paint because I didn't care for the dark blue, plus it was all cracked and peeling everywhere. It's just a Tremclad/Rustoleum paint job. Nothing special, but it got rid of the huge rust spots and made it look a little better. I don't know if a better skiing vehicle exists, though. God I love that thing. MrZig fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Oct 21, 2009 |
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Oct 21, 2009 00:24
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Wamsutta posted:How's radiator replacement on an XJ for someone who's never done it before? I have a Haynes but of course the loving thing only has details for the 4 banger and the V8. I hate this manual. Funnily enough, I'm replacing mine right now. I'm actually just painting the top metal bracket since it's all ugly, and after it's dry I'm going to put it back on. New rad is already in. It took me less than an hour to replace the thermostat & rad. Pretty easy, as w1ntermute said, you just remove the two hoses, undo a few bolts and it pops right out. Ofcourse I have a manual transmission and no A/C so it might be a little different for you. The hardest thing is probably going to be filling mine back up and making sure it's bled of all air.
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Oct 24, 2009 19:40
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I think I have axle wrap. Revamped springs may be in my future. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uVq8_3JUps
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Nov 7, 2009 21:26
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Tell me I should buy this. http://kamloops.en.craigslist.ca/cto/1504717727.html My '89 is getting to be too much of a pain. It's too old and has too many problems. This 91 looks really really really good actually for only a grand.. Even if it has a blown motor it might be worth it to fix it.
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Dec 18, 2009 01:14
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1989 4.0L Few months ago a small tick/knock developed from the engine that didn't seem to be much of an issue. Was only barely audible at idle. Now, the knock has suddenly gotten a LOT louder. It sounds like a bunch of rocks in the engine. I used a screw driver as a stethoscope and couldn't hear much on the valve cover, but if I put it on the cylinder head at the front just beneath the valve cover I can hear a little bit of some rustling around. I put it on the bottom of the oil pan and only heard whirring of the crankshaft. Could it be a main bearing or wrist pin on the #1 cylinder? I can't hear it at freeway speeds but around town its really loud. Maybe the front harmonic balancer or timing chain? Don't tell me I've just blown up a Jeep 4.0  Edit: Added a video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cl8fn8FWWyo MrZig fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Jan 27, 2010 |
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Jan 27, 2010 01:19
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incredibull posted:Yeah it does sound a lot like a trashed flywheel too. The AW4 has an inspection cover where it mates to the engine, and you can pull off and check the flywheel/torque converter while rotating the engine by hand. AX15, no flex plate here. Also the sound is definitely coming from the front of the engine. I think I've narrowed it down to the water pump. I put a stethoscope [read: screwdriver] on it when running and it's drat loud. If it's not the water pump, it's directly behind it. Another thing that makes me think waterpump is the first starts of the day I get a tiny bit of belt squeal. I never got this before it started getting this loud. Belt is tight, maybe [i]too/[i] tight. Sounds like the bearings to me. It's not leaking water, but I still think it is the issue. Easy test, I'll take the belt off and see.
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Jan 28, 2010 00:56
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MrZig posted:AX15, no flex plate here. Also the sound is definitely coming from the front of the engine. Just as an update, 99% sure it was my waterpump. You could see the whole pully moving back and forth when it was running. Took the belt off, no more noise. The pump flange had some definte play in it, gonna put the new one in and see what happens. Just for the record, this water pump only lasted a year and 2 months. I put it in in December of 2008.. Sad.
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Jan 29, 2010 02:22
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Cross posting from the horrible mechanical failures thread, my 89 Cherokee's Dana 35 gave up the ghost at 397,000KM. Still had oil in it, so I'm not sure why it failed. Just too much I spose. I was just leaving town and doing about 100 KPH when I heard a loud KABANG! and thump thump thump. poo poo. Got it home the next day and found a surprise in my diff housing.     Pinion gear is basically gone; shredded. The housing is damaged and the ring gear has a few broken teeth. Fun times!
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Jul 26, 2010 01:53
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Atticus_1354 posted:My cherokee gauge is 2/3 in the tank at F and 1/3 at half. People always wonder why I stop to get gas at half a tank. Those people are also retards because waiting until the gas light is on can be horrible for the fuel pump. Not only might it overheat but it can suck in any sediment in the tank.
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Oct 29, 2010 05:34
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Whiskey posted:I refute that video with this pic of me and my XJ going for a swim: You don't live in the Okanagan, BC Canada do you? There's a guy in a town near mine with a near identical Cherokee to yours. Older style, dark green, roof rack, and Warn front bumper. Even the same type of terrain you're wheeling in. 
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Nov 24, 2010 08:14
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rally posted:How clunky is the AW4 normally? I think I might have fixed my idle problem with the new TPS, and my transmission is less clunky, but it still has a decent clunk going into drive sometimes. Reverse is always smooth, and when its cold it seems like drive never clunks. Clunky usually means engine/tranny mounts. Also HeyEng, you're lucky snow is soft 
MrZig fucked around with this message at 06:49 on May 26, 2012 |
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May 26, 2012 06:38
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