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The King of Swag posted:To be truthful, it makes me sad, as most of the wilderness that is being cordoned off is completely unused by anyone and everyone and is all just going to waste just sitting there. I'd join a local club if you are serious about it. Theres tons of places to wheel in LA, you just have to drive an hour or so to get to them. For starters: Hungry valley SVRA, a bit past Magic Mountain: http://ohv.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=1192 San Bernardino National Forest: http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/sanbernardino/recreation/ohv/ A few trails include 2N17X, Dishpan,Cleghorn etc. Our Hummer group and a jeep group just helped the Forestry Service remove dead trees from the forest fire from the dishpan trail so that's open now. That region borders BLM land and it's open for public use. You can take back roads all over, from Lake Arrowhead to Big Bear down to Apple valley. GPS and a trail map will be good, you can get lost if you are not careful. Since it's in the mountains, chains may be recommended. When we went up Sunday morning, it was blowing snow at 5500 ft and the police had a chains check road block. Going up the Calico, CA [the ghost town near Barstow], has some neat BLM trails and canyons that you can navigate. As well as patches of high desert and spots where you can camp. South of there you got Johnson Valley OHV: http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/fo/barstow/johnson.html Currently, this park/area is in danger of being closed. The Marines want to expand the base to encompass a good chunk of Johnson Valley. The BLM is fighting against it so we'll see. It's odd to see government vs government fight over land. Remember, tread lightly, come properly equipped. Don't be one of "those" guys on the trails. I'm sure I'm forgetting other spots at the moment but thats a few. There's plenty of legal, challenging places you can off road near LA.
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Mar 19, 2008 18:35
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The King of Swag posted:Oh, I definitely know of all of those, it's just that I like taking the roads less traveled. Believe it or not, when I was a kid driving around with my dad, it was ridiculously easy to just talk to park rangers and let them know you'd be out there and that you'd keep your eye out for anything suspicious (people shooting up stuff, ect) and just try to help them out in general. They would then have no problem letting you drive all over hell, but nowadays, it just doesn't seem that way. Calico is still like that to a degree, especially up past the valleys before the ends of Fort Irwin past Tin Can Alley. It levels out with soft hulls and you start people spreading out all over. I think the BLM only frowns on people free riding around I-15 near Yermo because of the dust that kicks up that can cause traffic issues on the interstate. It's pretty awesome up there past the mountains becuase in any given direction you don't see any civilization at all except for one microwave transmitter on a hill. Other then that as far as the eyes can see.. just rocks, shrubs and desert. I was last up there during Calico Cleanup 08, I'd like to go up there again for a campout instead of picking up shattered glass all day 
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Mar 20, 2008 00:33
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That's a good price IMO, I'd buy any Jeep Cherokee or Wrangler in that price range if it needs a little work. You could fix it and flip it at that price.
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Apr 2, 2008 20:53
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Is the Jeep wave just for Wranglers? Because no one waves at me. It's hit or miss, I wave to everyone off road, whatever they're in a jeep or a rhino or a kid on a dirt bike. Back before the H2/H3 days there was the "hummer wave" because the trucks were so rare, but these days I wave at other H1 owners and they either flip out and wave back or they just stare blankly. So the wave or lack of wave occurs regardless of brand. I got the same in jeeps with my old jeep cherokee. Tooling around the city, I don't bother, but on the trail or on a trip, I wave. It's just people aren't ware on the "jeep wave" usually. It also helps if your truck is scratched up and beat to hell a bit.. people know. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jun 18, 2008 |
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Jun 18, 2008 19:49
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Well, changing the transfer case chain has turned into a big failure. There is one bolt that I just can't get to budge to get the case apart. I'll need to drop the case, and I just can't do that right now. So I gotta put back together what I had apart and save the job for when I have some better tools and a proper place to do it. Try heating the bolt? I had to do a t-case replacement on the field on my truck, wound up catching a ride to home depot and picked up a hand torch [I think I had mapp gas] and just heated the suckers up then pulled them up. It's easier when you drop the whole t-case, it's worth spending the extra half hour/hour to mount/unmount it so you can see things better and work easier.
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Jul 1, 2008 21:10
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:There isn't any room in there, that's the real problem. The only thing that will physically fit is a 1/4" ratchet with a 9/16" socket. I can't even fit my box-end wrench over the bolt, the ring is too thick to go between the bolt and case. The head on the bolt is too short and my socket keeps slipping off. For some reason that bolt head is different from all the others. And the vacuum diaphragm that locks the center diff is in the way to get an extension to use a bigger ratchet. It's just a big mess. Screw the socket crap, get one of these [ratchet wrench/t-handle]:  They're part of the OEM tool kit for servicing transfer cases and getting access to bolts in hard to reach places. I had one on my hummer tool kit for ripping out t-cases, an AM General tech showed me a trick using those to pull out the rear brake calipers on a hmmwv, allow me to swap pads in about 5 minutes with just 2 bolts on that tool, instead of taking everything apart and bleeding the brakes again. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tool...re=snapon-store The one I picked up ran about 70$ from Snapon. They're not listing prices on the website for whatever reason. It's a must have tool for anyone who works on drivetrains. It's a real time saver.
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Jul 2, 2008 00:38
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:
...well I guess you can put an extension bar on it with a socket  , I thought you were talking about dropping it, not splitting it while mounting. My bad  I think the best option is dropping it out when you get time.
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Jul 2, 2008 02:56
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Qweezy posted:
A stock wrangler can go a lot of places, at most you may need better tires for some stuff but hit your limits first. A stock wrangler kept up with H1's and Tricked out jeeps [with 35 and 37" tires and lifts] on black diamond trail near me, 2N17X with no issues. There was one or two spots he had to take the bypass around a tough obstacle, but it did well. A stock wrangler is up there with an H1, Unimog, Defender, etc. As an out of the show room off road truck. Besides, I see too many guys out there with 10-50 grand invested in their jeep that never go anywhere hard core enough that needs that equipment. Go stock until something breaks and replace it with something better. Proper off road driving technique is just as important. An experienced driver in a stock truck will go farther then a new guy in an expensive rig.
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Jul 2, 2008 19:12
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Jack_Handey posted:I'm in central NC, I'm going to part it out, anyone wants it, they can get it. That poo poo sucks. It's really bad near any popular wheeling spots, people hit up the trails for night runs, but you'll have a few folks looking out for disabled vehicles to salvage. I can't count the number of times we go back to help a guy recover his jeep and some of his gear and tools have been stripped out in 2-3 hours. These days I always travel with one other truck and we have vhf/ham radios on board so if someone is disabled they stick with the vehicle w/ radio communication with the guy leaving to get parts. Although in the past we'll usually just drag the disabled vehicles back to civilization with the diesels.
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Jul 7, 2008 23:48
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Sindow posted:While we're on this topic do most offroading people still use CB radios or are more of them getting their ham radio license now? Just getting Technician lets you use 2-Meter radios which should be good enough for use on trails. I'm setting up my truck for both, I'm studying for my Tech license now so I can be 100% legal with the Ham guys. VHF/DX Radios kick the everliving poo poo out of CB for range and quality, I have no problems raising the forest service when I'm in the mountains in the middle of nowhere. For awhile I was using a small vertex hand unit to communicate with my group, but I just picked up a mobile hacked yaesu-vertex unit to mount in my radio tray to go along with the hand held. I'll wind up picking up a separate cb unit so I can communicate with clubs that doesn't use the DX/VHF radios. Many guys use the DX/VHF/Ham without licenses, which will get you flak from the HAM operators, especially if you're using their repeater, but I never had issues in the past. Some of the ICOM units are pretty nice, if not pricey, I believe its an all in one unit radio, you can pick up EMT, air traffic, cb, you name it, but those start at 2 grand, so thats more reserved for hard core radio guys. For 2 grand I'd rather spend 250-300$ in radio gear and use the rest to buy tires, and some skid plates and other stuff.
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Jul 8, 2008 02:24
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ethanol posted:So I testdrove the jeep yesterday at a dealership. What I didn't know is that it would be a 2000 Sahara with 35" monsters and a 5" lift. It was loving huge. Well honestly, you'll be getting similar mileage with a lifted 35" tire jeep as you would with a v8. That being said ride quality can depend on a few factors, tires, alignment, springs and shocks. So it may not need "better" shocks. What kind of tires were on it? M/T's? Swampers? I got horrendous ride quality on my hummer, because the previous owner put shocks and springs from an Up-armored HMMWV kit on it. My ragtop weights 6500 lbs but the springs were set up for 10,800 lbs for a fully loaded out truck. Ride quality was rear end on road, but off road it's like a Cadillac. That being said I swapped out the HMMWV M/T tires for BF Goodrich A/T's and the ride quality on pavement increased significantly. The same issues can happen on a jeep if suspension upgrades aren't carefully planned out for it's intended use. What kind of lift kit was on it? With any off road truck, I'd crawl underneath and take a look at all the bump stops, shock mounts, look for any frame damage, etc. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Jul 9, 2008 |
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Jul 9, 2008 17:00
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rubbersoul posted:Just curious as a prospective Wrangler owner, what kind of gas mileage do you guys get on road/off road? And have (higher) gas prices affected how often you go wheeling, or do you guys just suck it up and have your fun? On an old CJ I used to drive with 35" tires I got about that in mpg. Some people with street tires on the new JK's are claiming 20 mpg, but my friend in his gets about 15-16. Any type of off road vehicle averages around 10-15 mpg. There's only so much you can get from a 4wd brick.
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Jul 16, 2008 15:55
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markdown posted:So, I posted instead of replying. woops. What's your budget? I'm guessing you may be ok going to a larger tire size but bare in mine you're going to be putting more stress on the drive train but that usually rears it's head when you start putting 35-37"+ inch tires on jeeps and 40"+ tires on bigger trucks.
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Jul 23, 2008 19:05
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I have no advice on the engine swap. Unfortunately, it comes with the territory, most of the engine swaps out there are very hack and slash. Is it possible to order new oem wiring for the engine? What's hacked together? Power to the engine? Or engine and sensors to the dash gauges? I'm guessing it's just spliced into the trucks original wiring? As for the seat, you can talk to any auto upholstery shop, or vinyl repair place. There a chain of guys called Dr. Vinyl which I'm going to try out when I get back from Canada. They specialize in that sort of thing. A realistic option is removing both seats and dropping them off some place for a few hundred to get them recovered, thats if you care about matching seats.
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Jul 26, 2008 15:26
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Anyone here deal in jeep parts? I wouldn't mind tracking down a OEM source for: P/N 5AE50KY6 aka. Pull handle for a Jeep XJ. Tan or Grey, it's probably long out of production. /edit found one source that has them for $11, now to check to see if they stock it.
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Aug 9, 2008 00:18
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Veeb0rg posted:I use to frequent the local jeep boards till I was askin about the drivers door on my cherokee, if anyone had experience fixin em, possibly willin to help etc. I was curious as its starting to have the typical cherokee door hinge issue and water was starting to leak in due to the doors misalignment. I was flat out told by a member that if I didn't want to get wet, then I shouldn't have bought a jeep, and that I wasn't "jeep" ownership material. It's hard to find a good forum. Armchair wheelers make things worse, and I never understood the X vs Y mentality. Especially the guys who believe you got to bob your jeep, lift it and remove most of the body panels. I mean it's one thing to have a dedicated trail truck that gets beat up, but if your jeep doubles as a daily driver, you don't want it beat to poo poo, and theres nothing wrong getting body damage repaired. Besides I'd like my trail rig to be street legal as well .I think thats the problem with off roading in general, some guys just slam the door shut on new people. You get someone who takes their brand new FJ, H3, or JK off road , and it's not likely that person is going to want to do the 100% damage hard core trails. If I was driving a brand new rig I'd be a bit cautious as well. Good luck trying to explain that on some of the forums, theres a real alpha dog / pack mentality that goes on. The best bet is to find a good local group, I find the smaller forums more interesting, especially if they're more responsible and take part in local trail cleanups. I find the clubs that just want to tear poo poo up automatically become rear end in a top hat magnets and their forums reflect that.
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Aug 13, 2008 16:50
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Scrubed posted:It will still chatter. The front will be locked irregardless of being in 4wd or not. It's why most commonly you go with a ARB or something similar in the front. Yeah, my old jeep had a detroit in the rear and an Arb in the front. It was an reliable setup. My Hummer right now has no lockers, I got the old school pre 1999 system where with the torsen limited slip diffs. The brakes are inboard [disks are mounted to the output flange of the diff before the cv boot] you can use the brake to distribute torque in a process [brake thottle modulation or constant thottle modulation]. It can work on most vehicles with limited slip but my experience has only been with old hummers and hmmwv's. It works great, but I overheated my braking system the last time I ran 2N17X. My friends run the detroit [detroit/eaton true track] in the rear and switchable in the front. You can get used to the detroit in the rear, but I don't like it on the front end. Next time around, probably in the next year, I may switch to eaton e-lockers, they finally released a kit that doesn't require me to buy a new harness and differential.
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Aug 25, 2008 19:20
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autophreak posted:As another WNY goon I have to say the BFG AT T/A K/O have never failed me in the snow with my Cherokee. They performed amazing the the October Storm a few years back. For a mixed use on pavement/off road tire, I'll echo the BFG AT's. They're the only manufacturer that seems to be on spec with larger sized tires. I have 37" A/T's on my Humvee and had it through 10,000 miles on the current set, about 7,000 miles of pavement, and 3,000 miles of rocks, desert, snow and sand and they've held up very well with very even wear for 7000 lb truck. No chunks missing and they balance very very easily. It's no wonder the Military is dumping bad year and switching to a military version of the BFG Baja T/A race tire. I can only imagine how much better they'll hold up on something that weighs half as much. I had interco's and goodyears that were out of round half the time or needed a ton of weights to balance at 37"-42" sizes. Of course if you are building a full time trail truck no one gives a poo poo abut balance, but if you are mixing in pavement use it helps. I wound up getting the tires at American Tire/Discount Tire, free mounting, free rotations and I picked up an extended warranty on top of the 50,000 mile factory warranty. I had MTR's on my old jeep which were also a nice tire but it tends to align more to a MT tire then an AT. Next time I think I may go with the BFG KM2. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Sep 2, 2008 |
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Sep 2, 2008 07:31
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ZippySLC posted:^^ SWB is the way to go with the JK. SWB JK is a pretty nice setup, my friend had to special order one and wait 2-3 months for it to show up from the factory. On the upside he got the exact colors and options he wanted. Apparently only 15% of the jk production run so far are SWB.
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Sep 3, 2008 07:14
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leica posted:I've been reading the Edmunds reviews and they are not favorable at all. Not worth the risk to me. Too bad, because it looks great and people are saying it drives great. But lovely Chrysler service, transmission and other problems scare me off big time. I don't know, the reaction to the JK puzzles me, I think it's a decent rig, I almost picked one up but decided to wait until I paid off my current truck first. The jeep community on some forums are split, some hate the JK and I think many reviews online will reflect that. My friend custom ordered a short wheel base JK and never had any issues with it. Another issue is that you're seeing more people buy the JK and not taking it off road at all [I'm seening plenty of JK's in LA with big rims and some that are slammed] which must piss the enthusiasts off.
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Sep 11, 2008 15:47
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tonedef131 posted:That article says it is a hybrid? About time they did a minivan... I'd love an electric or hybrid jeep, if it's done right it'll have plenty of torque. Our hummer group checked with a defense contractor in southern California that built a few HMMWV diesel hybrids in 2002. They pulled out the center drive drain components, and replaced it with a huge battery module, and put a 4 cylinder cummins generator on the front. They replaced the running gear and portal hubs with a 100 hp electrical motor on each wheel. Thing got 28 mpg, goes 0-60 in 6 seconds, had a very high amount of torque [800-1000 ft lbs if I recall] and still met all the HMMWV specifications except that it lost 1000 lbs of cargo capacity. [eg 3400 lbs instead of 4400 lbs]. The company told us they would sell us the kit for an h1 for $500,000. Now I know why the military didn't jump on it. One of our engineer friends figured he could duplicate the setup reasonably well for $20,000 but the key to the system was the motor control system which controled the motors to enable braking, and simulate transfer case and differential operation [eg. acting in limited slip mode was one feature of the system]. The technology is there, it just needs to get to market. An electric hybrid jeep would be awesome for guys who daily drive their trucks around town using only the battery, and then have the gas/diesel engine kick in when they really need the power or range to head out to the trails on the weekend.
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Sep 26, 2008 19:28
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Blackmage Yapo posted:And still looking for any input on how to mod my TJ. If you are concerned about ground clearance, I'd toss those side steps ASAP and replace with a steel rocker panel protection/rock slider that doesn't add to clearance.
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Sep 28, 2008 04:27
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spiralbrain posted:Does anyone have any experience using the Jeep Trail guide?? They are still pretty expensive to get a hold of (~$600), but its also one of the few models that I know of that does breadcrumbs. Is this thing worth the money or are there some better alternatives out there?? Looks just like a 2.5"-3.0" screen size rebranded garmin unit. [I'm guessing its based on a older GPS view] If you want a good off road GPS, go for a Lowrance, they're usually used in aerospace, boating but most off road desert racers use them: You can get a Baja 540c for 449$ if you look around, really bright 5" color screen, rugged enclosure. http://www.lowrance.com/en/Products/Automotive/GlobalMap-Baja-540C/ We have a bunch of these, a few on the hummers, one on the trophy truck and another mounted on our toy hauler. They have a larger models, 8" to 16" screens/touch screens but they run over a grand. They have topological data and are geared more for trail use as the city/street features are relatively basic on these units.
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Oct 6, 2008 23:15
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Baby Hitler posted:Honestly after working at the place selling the Lowrance units to all the desert racers, I've never really liked them much. They still are basically marine chart plotters with at-best ultra basic route planning. Also the smallest (540c) is the same as the largest (9200) in everything except raw screen size and $1200, there are no feature or benefit changes. The 9200c has a hard drive (worthless) and dual card slots, but thats it. Lowrances can't stand desert racing, the return levels on the units was pretty high, and the antennas (which are $200 each out of warranty) probably reach 75%. They don't do anything people want from a car GPS, and still break in the desert. I agree, the lowrance is feature limited, but garmin and other vendors don't make a GPS that I want. I don't need directions to a restaurant or to plot a route in LA, I want a large bright screen, topographical data and the ability to set way points so I don't get lost in the desert or mountains. I only use the GPS when I'm off road, otherwise, that and all the race radios gets hauled out after each trip. Driving a soft top hummer full of electronic equipment is like having a big "rob me" sign plastered on it. loving vultures. Another friend had his chase truck stripped when he was in Barstow for an event a few weeks back. He didn't tack weld his light mounts and thieves made off with 2000$ worth of light force lights. I guess I was making the point that there doesn't seem to be a GPS that does both off road and on road that well. An on road gps is useless to me since it'll be stolen if I ever leave it in the streets .As for breaking, well we're lucky so far on our teams equipment. But the cost to replace a gps is drop in the bucket vs fuel, tires, and other wear and tear items a team has to deal with. If garmin made a unit that had a 5-8" screen in a rugged enclosure, I'll be all over it, but I don't see a product like that yet. The street pilot 7x00 series comes close but it doesn't seem to have many functions for off road use. The smaller 2-3" ones would be fine for driving around town but when you are bouncing around the desert you can't see poo poo on the screen.
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Oct 7, 2008 17:53
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Cat Hatter posted:I've been having this exact same problem with my '98 Cherokee. Usually the gauges come back if I slam my fist down on the dash so I'm guessing its just a loose connection, but mine isn't as frequent a problem so I've been too lazy to fix it. Lose connection on the ground block? I'd bust out the multimeter and start inspecting from under the dash/fuse box area, and the battery/starter and work my way in.
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Oct 22, 2008 02:38
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MrZig posted:Hah, I have a tire question too. Sounds like your front end is off camber [positive] try to get a full alignment first , then figure out if there is suspension component issues. Some good shops will have something like a Hunter alignment rack which uses laser tracking to ensure everything [toe, camber, thrust line/axis, etc] is within spec.
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Dec 4, 2008 23:03
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grzydj posted:Dr. Z was totally unapologetic about diluting the Jeep nameplate. He wasn't shy about admitting that to them Jeep was just a recognizable brand that was it. They didn't care about off-road capability or anything like that, which is why there are now rebadged Mitsubishi Lancers masquerading as Jeeps! Jeep meet Hummer.  I've read in diesel power this morning that Chrysler is planning to move the Grand Cherokee to a car platform in order to improve fuel economy. 
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Dec 11, 2008 18:19
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incredibull posted:I hate it when dealers do this. The car is on your lot, you have a sticker on it. Just post the drat mileage. If you're going to omit the mileage, I'm not even going to bother to look twice. I don't trust dealers where they have offices inside of a corrugated steel trailer.
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Dec 20, 2008 21:33
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MrZig posted:No, see, you're wrong. Full-time 4x4 is for.. full-time operation. On any surface. It has a center differential that lets the front and rear turn at different rates. Part-time is only for loose surfaces. Besides, all the roads here are snow-covered. That's correct. Theres 242 in the HMMWV/H1 [242 with larger chains/gears] with no 2WD mode. The 242 can run all day long in 4WD mode unlocked. You can run 4WD in HL mode on solid surfaces in a pinch if you need to, it won't do any wonders for your tires on turns though. I had to do this once, I was caught up the coast, a few hours away from anywhere when the little nylon pads on my shift forks wore out. I lost 4wd open and had to fully engage the t/c to 4HL to get it back home. For those curious here's a "full time" 242 out of an H1.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. You can see the cooling loop underneath the chain which I haven't found on any of the jeep models. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Dec 20, 2008 |
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Dec 20, 2008 21:46
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overflow posted:Another "Should I buy this?" reply.. It's actually a pretty good deal for this area, but I'm worried about the damage to the rear fenders. More specifically, how big of a pain in the rear end is it going to be to fix? For that price, I'd leave the damage unless you want to fix it yourself. If you were in the southwest, you could saw off some of the body work and make it a buggy, besides the rear fenders get in the way sometimes if you really want to put some big rear end drive train upgrades and wheels on it. I'm still kicking myself for not buying a one owner cherokee for 500$ with a head gasket problem
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Dec 21, 2008 09:24
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Gavitron posted:
Of course you can get an used h2 for dirt cheap [street queen 03-04's 15-20k]. I've seen one with lockers for 30k at one place, and it was never ever off roaded like most h2's, but the JK sits a bit lower then the H2. It's about the same as an H1/H3 [I compared with a friends Jk vs my H1]. I like the JK, my friend purchased an JK from the factory [he wanted a hard top 2 door and at the time you had to special order a jk if you didn't want a 4 door]. He's debating trading it in for a new Rubicon or just paying it off and installing a lift and beefier front and rear ends so he can fit 35's or 37's. I'm trying to get him to take the blasted thing off road, I need more off road buddies who aren't h1/hmmwv/m35 owners. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 10:27 on Dec 30, 2008 |
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Dec 30, 2008 10:20
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Ninja Dan posted:Hey guys! Just returned from the salvage yards. Managed to pick up the trim off the instrument panel to replace mine since it got broken when my radio was stolen a year ago. Only thing is, this one is faux wood finish and the old one was matte black/grey. I'd order some SEM color coat and a can of plastic/vinyl prep depending if its vinyl wrapped/padded with a can of clear coat [matte/semi/glossy]. SEM is a bit hard to find, you have to hit up automobile upholstery places or automotive industrial supply to find it. http://www.vinylpro.com/ http://www.sem.ws/ I stripped the interior off my H1 , and completely redid everything. The SEM came out great and it's holding up so far.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Depending on the material you usually hit it with: A good cleaning, I use a bit of goo gone to remove any time of trim sealant or black marks. This may discolor the plastic a little bit but since we're repainting it who cares. let dry. Hit with a spray of SEM Sand Free or Vinyl Prep depending if its plastic or vinyl, this will clean the vinyl of any silicon or in the case of the sand free product for plastics, it'll soften the plastic slightly allowing the paint to take hold. Then hit with 2-3 light coats of colorcoat [matched to your color] allow 10 minutes of drying time between coats. Then hit with 2-3 light coats of a clear to act as an additional layer of protection. I use semi-gloss on plastics, and high gloss on vinyl. Everything came out great afterwards. People couldn't believe how clean and new my interior was once it's done.
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Jan 4, 2009 23:40
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Looks like a coolant overflow hose. If you overheat, excess coolant will release itself from that hose. It's normal, I'd route it down towards the bottom away from any electrical bits, or leave it as is if you don't know what you're doing.
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Jan 13, 2009 01:09
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Boomerjinks posted:Anyone have any thoughts on how to prevent winch theft? I've seen bolt locks, putting a spot of weld on the nut, what do you gents use? I'd spot tack weld anything that can be unbolted easily, this goes for lights. If they really want it, they'll have to rob the rig and strip it elsewhere. Another option is to get a after market bumper which is designed for winch use. You can install the winch inside the frame rails or behind the bumper and everything is enclosed. If they want to steal it, they'll have to take apart your front end. On the bumper side of things, I know one guy who got sick and tired of poo poo being stolen off his truck he put a reinforced bumper with a receiver hitch on the front, and uses a removable receiver winch. He also made his light and radio racks removable with quick release pins so he can strip out his truck when it's not on the trail.
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Jan 14, 2009 02:54
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Flyboy925 posted:
What engine? If it's the V8, I barely got that in my old grand cherokee.
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Jan 19, 2009 17:07
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I'd get it if it was a few hundred dollars as a project vehicle, otherwise it looks like a half assed project jeep which means that you'll discover that the wiring is just as bad as the bodywork and basically you'll have to strip everything down.
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Feb 20, 2009 02:08
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My favorites: BF Goodrich KM2 / Krawler Goodyear MTR I'm looking at a set of TrXus MT's down the road for a set of spare trail wheels. Surplus Hummer 2 piece beadlock/run flat wheels are cheap, and I can get a set of TrXus's in 37" with a 16.5" wheel. I can't get the BFG Baja's krawler style tire or Goodyear MTR in 16.5" size unless you are in the military or want to pay 600-700$ by a supplier who will sell to the public. Right now I'm running BFGoodrich A/T's but I wished I got the KM2's. Nothing wrong with the A/T's at all, its a nice, even wearing, quiet tire that's decent in most environments. I have 2 friends running TrXus's on their H1's, and if it holds on rocks, mud and snow on an 7000-8000 lb truck, it should be great on a jeep. I was looking at the IROK's as well.. had a friend selling a set of 5 beadlocked/runflat wheels with 6 42" iroks.. I was interested in buying but... 42" tires? 
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Mar 21, 2009 03:59
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Boomerjinks posted:Ha, that's just temporary right now. I can use the torx, but then the winch sits like 4 inches off the front of the bumper. Ugly. I'll work some magic and get all four in there before the weekend. This mounting was just for a sci-fi convention over the weekend. Stainless may be ok, but good luck finding grade 8 stainless hardware for winch bolts. You can hunt down grade 8 cadinum plated bolts, but it will be special order. mcmaster.com should have them, if not they can special order it or you can get something that is black coated or armor coat. I'm redoing the frame on my H1 in a few weeks and I'm replacing with all the bolts I'm touching with new bolts, I'm either special ordering Cadinum plated, or I'll get normal US made bolts and take them to an electro plater and get them to custom plate them. If it's juts for cosmetic looks, I find VHT High temperature chassis and roll bar paint in satin black to be pretty good stuff.
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Apr 21, 2009 20:20
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Its nice, I thought it was a J8 at first, but all the guys turning normal vehicles into "military" style vehicles tend to go a bit overkill on the army markings. [ie. no step everywhere, etc]. The CUCV/Humvee/Mutt/M35 guys on the trails will think its cute I'm assuming the rear canvas cargo cover is from a MUTT?
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Apr 23, 2009 22:16
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InitialDave posted:Does the US not paint the rear diff cover? A lot of UK military stuff (e.g. Landies) have a white diff with a convoy light aimed at it for night manoeuvres - all other vehicle lighting is switched off, and you just follow the dimly-lit diff housing of the truck in front. They usually use a low intensity blackout light which looks like the below pictures. It just emits a small sliver of light directly down and in front of the vehicle, some have IR filters for night vision goggle use. Differentials on mutts/older jeeps are painted carc green/black and on the hmmwv it's the same deal depending on who paints it. From the factory it has a carc black diff cover with exposed metal for the rest of the differential.   Click here for the full 600x800 image.
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Apr 24, 2009 04:56
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