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Philip J Fry posted:There's always the rear seat 'mod' that you can stuff your subs into if you're the adventurous type. I use liquid wrench liquid silicon for the zippers and channels of soft tops. Work's great, makes things super, super easy.
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May 12, 2009 17:40
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DILLIGAF posted:My previous vehicles are a Vette and a Dakota with the 5.2 so it feels pretty gutless. Ditch the Rubicon and get a US issue turbo diesel J8  http://www.aev-conversions.com/vehicles/j8_milspec.php They're only doing a 100 or so a year though. If I didn't get the H1, I'd probably get one of these. Did jeep ever release a diesel wrangler? Or was it just the liberty/cherokee?
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May 23, 2009 02:01
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 I like to slap the idiot who engineered the front bumper on the JK. I had to replace a friends front plastic cladding, and instead of taking the 4 outer trim bolts and nutserts out and popping the plastic off and putting on the new bumper, you have to remove the air drat with it's plastic on plastic screws, disconnect the fog light harness, unbolt the tow hooks/bumper mounts and shims, remove lights, etc. The way the plastic is molded you can't just bolt it onto the truck, because the tow hooks are in the way. Since the tow hooks and the bumper mounting brackets are the same you pretty much have to disassemble everything. At least next time we touch it, it'll be to install a nice solid aftermarket bumper. gently caress that plastic cladding bullshit. It could be worse, at least I had access to both sides of most of the bolts, unlike on Ford trucks or SUV's. I'm spoiled by older trucks I swear.
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Jun 9, 2009 19:52
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incredibull posted:Hey why would anybody ever want to remove a bumper unless the truck is totaled or if it's done by a body shop, right? Why would anyone have plastic on a bumper to begin with  I'm sure there's a reason, they probably wanted to make sure the cladding doesn't fly off in a collision if it's held on by 4 nutserts. The way it is now if the 4 nuts come out, the bumper cladding will still hang in place. I was going to suggest it was a service conspiracy in order to pad hours on something that's mundane, but with a lift and tools, you can still do the job under an hour and that's the minimum a dealer will charge anyways so that can't be it. Tossed_Salad_Man posted:V10 Twin Turbo Wrangler. How hard is that swap to do... I wonder. Is there a lot of computerized controls with the Viper engines? ECM and the works? I wonder what t-case/transmission he's using, as that will be one mean differential and axle cracking machine. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jun 11, 2009 |
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Jun 11, 2009 18:31
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Careful on pirate, ask in the wrong forum and get 30 pages of fawker,nub,noob,and gtfo. Pirate is almost a textbook example with whats wrong with automotive forums. There is a wealth of technical knowledge there but you have to sort through the bullshit. Never mind getting blasted with "use the search" or "that's not hard core enough", etc. I had a laugh at the pirate sponsored "King of the Hammers" movie.. poorly edited, poor vision, they were trying to emulate Dust to Glory and failed horribly.
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Jun 17, 2009 17:20
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spiralbrain posted:Just like my Jeep, you gotta get rid of those awful street tires. Yes, ditch the tires. Get a nice set of MT/AT's from Goodyear or BF Goodrich, like crawlers/KM or MTR's. Otherwise putting a lift and trail doors with something with street tires is pretty goofy. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Jun 28, 2009 |
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Jun 28, 2009 21:34
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Goob posted:. Is tackling this Jeep a bad idea? If you have deep pockets and a lot of time to buy a new tub and frame. I'd keep looking.
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Jul 17, 2009 21:26
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:
We zip tie ours, we use SFI 45.1 padding on our trace truck and a few of our hummers, Defense industry, Nasa, Nascar and other racing organizations use that stuff. Good flame resistance, and very good shock performance. http://www.rollbarpadding.com/prod_SFI451.html It's meant for use with a helmet, it feels tough/stiff and not like foam but we did a test in front of a few guys who were using water heating insulation or pool toys for padding and said the sfi stuff was junk. We did the hammer test and it changed their minds. Just take a hammer and a sample of whatever product you use and the sfi rated stuff will adsorb all of the impact while generic foam products won't adsorb poo poo and you'll hear a loud clink as the hammer bounces off the pavement. I think its about 17$ per 3-4 foot. Here's an install I helped with on a friends truck, he had extra reinforcement added to his roll cage and we tossed the factory padding:  Click here for the full 1024x683 image. It's hard stuff but if you look above the heads of the seats we zip tied softer foam on top of the safety gear to act as a cushion for softer jolts. Best bet with any product you use, is just take it out to a parking lot and whack it with a hammer and see how much shock it will absorb. Looks like summit racing stocks SFI and non SFI padding, that's why theres a big difference in price, 3$ per 3 foot vs 17-20$ per 3 foot. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jul 17, 2009 |
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Jul 17, 2009 22:12
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:That's what the goodyears are that are on now. I think those retreads are ok, They also do Hummer tires for guys who run the military spec rims, and it's harder to find specific types of tires for 16.5" wheels, especially if you want something besides an interco tire. They still make the old style MTR but only f37x16.5x12 and that's a special order item. I think it's the same guys who refab the tires for Adventure accessories which is a brand used for retreaded MT and MTR tires. They're decent quality, but they're still goodyears which means they're all slightly out of round. But if its off road use who cares
Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jul 29, 2009 |
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Jul 29, 2009 21:05
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Oops. My info on the retreads was wrong. I asked my tire guy [he is the OEM for a popular brand of off road tires] about Treadwright. I had them mixed up with adventurer / community. One does remolds and the other retreads, all mtr/mt stuff I was talking about does not come from treadwright. anonymous tire authority posted:
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Jul 29, 2009 22:08
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I'd buy remolds over retreads. I mean, Goodyear 4x4 tires [mt/mtr/gsa/etc] are out of round new from the factory  I can only imagine how bad they are after retreading them. That being said, if it is a trail truck then no real big deal. Highway miles on the desert? Make sure you got two spares with you  .
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Aug 3, 2009 17:52
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KickStand posted:I run 40 in mine and everything is hunky dory. but if your running ok at 50 I'd say just leave it. Or air down to 45 50 seems high for me for Goodyear radials, especially if it's load range E on a Jeep. Those tires are OEM for 6500-12,000 lb H1's and the recommendation for MT/MTR for pavement is 24 psi front 27 psi unloaded and 35/40 psi for max load GVW. Those are 37" MTR's. I think going 35-40 would be fine at highway speeds. I'd drive over a bit of water on a flat paved surface and check your tread pattern vs voids and see if your tires have full contact. Keep in mind going at highway speeds, your psi will increase by 5-7, so if you are at 50psi, you'll be at 55-60 psi after a bit of highway driving. I can see a big rear end military truck requiring high psi, but a jeep? I think 35-40 psi would be ok.
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Aug 5, 2009 22:48
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Doctor Zero posted:Not sure about your area, but in general, he's asking retail price. PP value for that should be between $3000 and $3800 according to KBB. I'm blaming the CARS/Clunkers for cash program, hey they're getting 3500-4500 for their jeeps on trade in! Of course I can't figure out the logic there. Of course the game with craigslist is to ask for a lower price. It's expected, when I list items on craigslist I mark it up a bit expecting people to haggle. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Aug 8, 2009 |
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Aug 8, 2009 02:14
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cory ad portas posted:Might have been asked before, but what's best for cleaning your top? My old Bestop did pretty well with just anti-mildue poo poo, but my new one doesn't seem to want to get clean or stay clean. I clean my tan top with: 303's canvas/convertible top spray [I don't have the link for it] It has a green label and the little umbrella logo on the back. And follow up after washing with a coat and wipe of: http://www.303products.com/shop303/index.cfm/category/65/303-aerospace-protectant.cfm If the tan top is fairly dirty to begin with, it may be hard to get some stains out.In which case it may be a good idea to see if you can pick up a new one or cheap used one in good shape and start maintaining it. I had to do this on my hummer since the one that came with it was beyond fixing. I stuck with the tan colored tops since I can get US DOD surplus for $400 new for all new insulated canvas. If I want black, it's like $1500+ dollars  The upshot with the aerospace protectant is that it prevents fading, which is especially important if you have a black top. If you got a new jeep in the southwest, applying the 303 spray on your canvas and interior and exterior plastic vinyl and rubber trim bits will keep them black forever. Boating supply shops stock most of their products, as it's useful for folks with nice white yachts which sit in the sun all day. Stores like West Marine stocks them. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Sep 2, 2009 |
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Sep 2, 2009 18:41
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incredibull posted:.. or conventional plugs .. Indeed. I started sticking with OEM plugs after having issues with even high quality aftermarket brands on my old Ford trucks and Jeep. The tolerances aren't the same or there's a small gap somewhere, I'm not sure. I wound up sticking with OEM and forgetting about it.
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Sep 4, 2009 17:17
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Does anyone know what kind of bulb goes inside the switches on a wrangler. Hmm most of the clips/bayonet style bulbs usually are one piece units. I look for gauge bulbs from the 90's, and I can find the bulbs but not with the plastic retaining base. So it may be a special order part depending on the vendor of the switches. I'm thinking it could be a Eaton/Eaton-Cutter Hammer switch but I could be mistaken.
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Sep 16, 2009 01:31
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Clamwacker posted:We are talking about Jeeps in this thread, right? I have never had a working gas gauge, and you don't hear me complaining. Some people are OCD  Right now I'm tracking down the OEM for dealer switches so I can have all my winch/high idle/light/aux switches match the rest of the switches in the cab. Eaton makes a lot of switches for everything from Jeeps and Fords to Freightliners.. I found a catalog pdf and there's thousands of switches there, all sorts of light and stencil graphics combinations including 3 and 4 state toggle switches if you want to get fancy with wiring up stuff. On the other hand it's 20-40$ per switch vs 2-10$ so.. it's not worth the effort for most sane people.
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Sep 16, 2009 20:23
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:hit me with that pdf. I'll have sunday off from work, so I'll dig around for it.
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Sep 18, 2009 21:29
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:hit me with that pdf. I can't find it at home, I must have it on a backup somewhere but I don't have time to find it. This seems to be a complete online version : http://commercialcontrols.eaton.com/VCBU/catalog/index.html This vendor sells everything from that catalog, but you have to set up an account I believe: http://www.wesgarde.com/ I have to use the dimensions from the eaton catalog and fabricate a control panel that will allow me to snap in some control buttons for my new lockers.  I know that each eaton line of switches kind of snaps together like lego bricks, so you can build your own switch cluster really easily. The downside is you're paying around 15-25$ per switch with the light and silk screened artwork. I want to get the rabbit and turtle one for the high idle switch for the winch 
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Sep 24, 2009 21:47
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Paulie posted:This dude makes pretty sweet switch panels and whatnot: http://www.12voltguy.com/web/ That guy's awesome, he made up a few custom control panels for some of my friends. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Sep 25, 2009 |
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Sep 25, 2009 18:36
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MAJOR STRYkER posted:Hey dudes, So I've got sort of a multi-part question I was hoping you guys could help me out with. Last week there was a string of break ins around my neighborhood, my XJ was one of they unlucky ones. They broke into my car through the vent glass driver-side window and took a lovely gps and my radar detector. Oh loving well. The next day I went to class and some fucker broke in again and took my cd deck, before I even had a chance to get my window fixed. Anyway now I've repaired my window and I was hoping ya'll would have suggestions for alarm systems. I'm looking for something cheap - I'm willing to buy an actually alarm system even though I believe a simple blinking LED would detour potential criminals. Should I buy a $99 off Crutchfield and have it installed? Suggestions? Personally, with off road vehicles, I'd buy a GPS, stereo and radar detector that's removable. And keep that poo poo out of the truck if you aren't in it. On my old XJ I took out the cd deck and CB every time I got out of the truck. I had a tuffy vault box and sometimes tossed and locked the goods in there out off site. The CB always stayed out unless I was going on the trail. On my diesel, I got a alpine with a removable face plate. Nothing stays in the truck when it's parked. The Ham radio/CB and GPS is removed when parked or just street driving. It's a hassle but they'll move onto easier pray. Alarms are useless noisemakers. Wait until you got to a motorsport event or live out in wheeling country and catch guys trying to steal your shocks or light bar. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-cherokee/Tuffy/security-storage.htm As for XJ front bumpers/brush guards I like these: http://www.4wd.com/jeep-parts.aspx?cid=4&jeep-sid=256&plID=656 I like road armor as well: (  /edit every jeep but XJ )http://www.roadarmor.com/site/ Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Sep 29, 2009 |
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Sep 29, 2009 08:39
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InitialDave posted:
They can be pricey, most of the jeep ones come with custom rear bumpers to allow mounting points. http://www.quadratec.com/products/12052_40X_PG.htm http://www.arbusa.com/Products/Bull-Bars-Bumpers-And-Tire-Carriers/Tire-Carriers/16.aspx I picked up a surplus government Rhino HMMWV tire carrier with a geared wormscrew lift and ratchet for about $230 [half of that was freight], since the defense department is replacing them with a newer style that can lift a split rim with one ratchet pump instead of 8-10 with the old models. I saw a jeep retrofitted with one but it was running rockwell axles with 8 lug wheels, so it would make sense for something like that.
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Oct 2, 2009 21:39
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Molten Llama posted:I'm of the mind Tread Lightly should start providing baseball bats for "on-the-trail training." Yes, this is why it's important to form up with local 4x4 groups and work with the BLM or Parks Service officials in your area to organize trail cleanup and maintenance events. Get them on your side and it's easier to stop Sierra Club's efforts to shut down access to public land. They'll start with vehicles first, then they'll go after horses and bikes, an then no access at all. Of all the trash clean ups , bush clearing, and forest fire recovery runs I've been on, I've seen actually zero sierra club members actually out in the field doing anything. Well except for Earth Day, they get bused out from the city and plant a few trees and go home.  Wow.
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Oct 20, 2009 18:53
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grnberet2b posted:Just picked up my Jeep from getting some body work done after I was hit by a delivery truck on Halloween. The actual body work looks incredible, but they dripped a small amount of paint on the fender flare. I'm probably just being overly picky, but it's going to bug me. Typically, I'd just buy a new fender flare and be done with it, but this is a limited edition model (2005 TJ Willys Edition) that has "body color fender flares", so that could be difficult. If its a drip, those can be removed with a skilled of a straight razor. It happens all the time with paint and bodywork. They can probably put some solvent on it it to help remove it provided it doesn't discolor or melt the fender flare plastic. Is the fender flare smooth or textured? Either way I'd point it out to them since it's a sure fire way to know that the Jeep had paint and body work done to it [not that there's other ways to tell, eg. comparing orange peel or looking for overspray or mask lines].
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Nov 18, 2009 16:52
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grnberet2b posted:
I have one in a soft top humvee. I take it out all the time, CB and a Ham/VHF radio. It sucks but I really only need to install it 2 times a month or so, and it's not a big deal. The idea with a soft top is not to leave anything of value sitting around inside, so I replaced the factory radio with one with a removable faceplate. Tuffy security products makes a replacement center console where it's a steel unit that allows you to install a VB radio and have it tucked out of view. http://www.tuffyproducts.com/default.aspx So basically you can get a center console replacement, install the CB inside the console with the faceplate facing up and when not in use you can flip down and lock the unit. I know a few people who has done this.
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Nov 19, 2009 20:08
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LargeHardonCollider posted:
Until you put it on youtube and everyone rants how [X] is poo poo off road. But yes, you quickly learn to start carrying all sorts of spare poo poo. When you start fixing other peoples rigs on the trails more than your own, you know you've got too much stuff.
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Nov 28, 2009 06:40
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Steiler Drep posted:I'm thinking on doing a LED conversion on my taillights for my YJ '90 4.2L Sahara. I know Quadratec sells a pair for $155 but that's just too expensive. Dealextreme sells LED lightbulbs but they appear to be same as bulbs but in LED format. Are there any guides out there to doing this? I know this is probably too stupid/unnecessary but I like the look of LEDS on tail-lights (I might do it on the signal lights on the front later on). The main problem I'm looking is to basically how do I hook it up and what is done with the voltage/power differences? I'd be able to do it from scratch, just need to know how haha, this guy made it on his civic but I'm unsure on how this would go for a wrangler as old as mine. The LED Bulbs can be a crapshoot. It depends if anything depends on the voltage draw for input. Such as Cruise control deactivation, traction control and other options. I've seen a few LED setups requiring resisters soldered into the harness and new flasher relays. I've seen the LED bulbs cause a few grounding issues, and other weirdness such as dim LED's staying on when the vehicle is off, or having one or two LED's on the assembly staying full on lit. If you can swing it, I'd go with the an OEM replacement solution rather than going the LED bulb route.
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Dec 7, 2009 18:31
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WildFoxMedia posted:
Don't let the salesman drive/lead you around with discussions. The most I'd say is "I haven't decided yet" or answer the question with a question and side step it. It'll depend on the situation and how the salesperson is behaving. Some guys are cool and are just looking for a quick sale, and others are like "You got my money in your pocket, I want as much of it as I can so I can brag to my buddies at the break room and make salesperson of the month"
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Dec 14, 2009 15:46
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WildFoxMedia posted:I expect all kinds of poo poo for this, so flame to your hearts content. I'd check out the Jeep Commander, or maybe a 4 door Jeep JK. I had a friend that was going to buy a older Wrangler and he found the JK much more roomier than the previous generation of wrangler. Since you are listing full size domestive SUV's, I'd consider adding any Hummer product to your list of vehicles to check out, Full size SUV's are right up their alley. Depending on model year they all have eaton e-locking differentials, some with front and rear standard [adventure package] along with standard skid plates and very good OEM slope performance, good approach and departure angles and come well equipped even though 95% of owners never go over anything more challenging than a speed bump.
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Jan 20, 2010 23:17
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Braincloud posted:I dunno, any day I could run half-doors, I'd rather just run no doors. Depends on the amperage draw of the blanket, would be interesting to figure out if that would work. /edit electric blankets draw less power than I thought [.5-1.5 amps], and there's the "battery blanket" heaters which I totally forgot about for cold starts, that could be something interesting for remote cold starts with no outlet available.Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Feb 11, 2010 |
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Feb 11, 2010 02:21
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Looks like I might get to beta test a bed cover to go with my half hard top. They are redesigning the mounting system and once they have that redone they'll have me go and get one mounted up. It will be lockable, sealed with hinged struts to hold it open. I wouldn't mind seeing a product like that for H1 soft tops actually. A friend of a friend came up with the fiberglass mold for such a product that was going to be distributed by Snug Top, only to have the mold tooling place go out of business and having the $30,000+ molds and tooling disappear in the liquidation. So long removable one piece top
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Feb 11, 2010 20:30
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Veeb0rg posted:BFG All-terrains work well for that sort of driving. Yes, the BFG AT-KO or the newer BFG MT/AT KM2 [more agressive tread, same ride quality]. Nice all around tire, not the best in deep mud but I never had issues with them in water, snow, sand, and rocks. BFG's [especially larger sizes] blow the doors off of Goodyear for balancing and being .. you know.. round from the factory
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Feb 18, 2010 21:55
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jonathan posted:Installed 3.5" lift, chopped the fenders, put on 35" tires and 15" wheels. Would you need to do any drivetrain/steering upgrades to handle a 37?
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Mar 6, 2010 23:51
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Seriously considering some of the fenders from here: http://modernclassicenterprises.com/ Looks like a good idea, have something that's cheap and easily replicable on a trail rig is a good idea. You look at the really built up jeeps which are basically a custom tube chassis, they would go with an aftermarket body or fiberglass body pieces like the desert race trucks. Something that's prone to damage, just tear it off and pin/bolt in a new one. Granted they want weight reduction for speed, but that transfers over to wheeling.
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May 5, 2010 21:20
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jonathan posted:Thinking about "upgrading" to some 37" Interco IROK's (radial version) on my JK Unlimited. Anyone have an opinion on these tires ? My 35's only measure in at 33.8" and really, they don't look large enough especially with flat fenders. Plus I like snow wheeling, and I figure the 37" tires will work well down around 8psi. They're an awesome tire. Had them on H1's, lots of friends run them on rocks, sand and snow, and they can go down that low in psi on a fat hummer, they'll be fine on a jeep provided you got clearance while steering.
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May 6, 2010 18:46
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I find that 3M Trim Adhesive [most auto parts stores sell this in a black aerosol can] tends to work well provided you follow the prep instructions. Ie The surface you are bonding to is clean and isn't covered with dirt or old glue.
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Jun 17, 2010 14:29
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Cabledude posted:I've seen a Blacked out JK Wrangler Unlimited Sahara twice now that has lowrider wheels on it and appears to be lowered driving around my town but both times I've seen it I have been on my motorcycle and cannot get a picture. Saw a candy orange JK with black rimmmmz and low profile tires at the Auto Center in Tustin CA this morning. It starting to get pretty common in Los Angeles. About 50% stock, 25% lowered with low profile tires, and 25% lifted with 35-40" tires for the JK's I've seen rolling around lately.
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Jun 17, 2010 22:04
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:I HOPE they are 2WD. I've seen Rubicons done like that
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Jun 17, 2010 22:28
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nubie7357 posted:Have a TJ but think it's too narrow and too normal looking? Are you a poser that can't afford a HMMWV? Want your TJ to look like one without having any of their advantages like an improved drivetrain, more ground clearance, and more cargo space? Well, do I have the answer for you! Yeah that looks like it was based on the Wrangler "Bummer kit", I saw a bunch of them in the 90's H1 heyday. There was a few other kit car versions including a body kit [fiberglass ] for pickups called Urban Gorilla or T-Rexx and a smaller hummer body kit for a ford ranger chassis.A lot of them closed up shop when GM purchased the intellectual property/trade dress of Hummer and sent lawyers after the kit car guys. AM general really didn't care about enforcing trademarks before the dark times... before the GM H2.  Click here for the full 450x604 image. Had to pass on this today, almost purchased it but I can't swing $22,000 now. Amazing deal, it's a 1987 M998, with A2 upgraded suspension, upgraded driveshafts and geared hubs with a lift kit, drive train repowered with a intercooled 6BT 5.9L Cummins turbo diesel. Blows the doors off the 6.2/6.5 hummers/humvee's, you can actually peel it out and kick up a huge sand wake in the desert.  Currently helping my office mate track down a XJ now. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Jul 1, 2010 |
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Jul 1, 2010 02:14
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nubie7357 posted:Holy crap, this was stock!??! I thought it was a bad body kit that was popular for a few years. Or they were imitating a movie car I hadn't seen, like Tomb Raider or something. I think that style renegade was used in Back to the Future II as a flying future jeep that Mc Fly grabs onto in 2015. Steiler Drep posted:I don't think it's that, more like how ridiculously awful they look, and the excessive amounts of body work that ultimately makes the car uglier, slower, heavier, and less capable for offroading. I agree, Jeeps and other off road vehicles with extensive body kits, or factory styling like above is pretty much relegated to street queen duty. Moderate off roading will tear off a fender flare or running board, etc. On the flip side a simplified body replacement panel is fine, like desert race cars, you got your cage and a few clip on, easy to replace body parts, that makes sense.
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Jul 1, 2010 16:39
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