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Delivery McGee posted:
In '69 those "Fords" weren't GPWs, they were M151 MUTTs, which were made by Ford (among others). I doubt there were any other Ford "jeeps" there. The only other jeep-like thing they made was the GP series (GP, GPW, GPA) weren't made after 1945 and were replaced by the M38 in 1950 (which was then replaced by the M38A1 in 53, which was finally replaced by the M151 in 59). Interestingly enough - the M151s were never "officially" sold as surplus. It was easy to go fast and roll them so the military was supposed to cut them all in half. Somehow though we've had about 6-8 come through our military vehicle restoration shop in the last 20 years.
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Feb 16, 2008 15:56
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Omg50BMG posted:Unspeakably rare, as all Forward control jeeps are. Not really. There are probably quite a few more 4x4s from the same era that are just as rare if not more. I've seen a few of them come up on CL for <$6500 in reasonable (but far from perfect) shape. We've had three of them in the shop: An FC150, a 170 and a M678 (which is a military VAN FC that IS unspeakably rare - I think we sold it for $18-20 grand restored). Rare, but really nothing to be crazy about how rare they are. If someone wants to acquire one (at least in Colorado/Rockies) you can get one with a couple of months of searching/waiting and ~6000-8000 bucks. The price is actually a steal considering what the much more common FJ40s in this area in similar condition are going for.
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Feb 22, 2008 05:18
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It seems neat, but I really fail to see the purpose. Another example of the overall pussification of the "jeep" attitude. If you need to disconnect/reconnect your sway bar.... You probably have two seconds to pop out of the truck and use manual disconnects. In all likelyhood you should also be airing down... When you want to reconnect you will be airing back up... Seems like it would only be effective if your daily commute involves the need for maximum flex and also fairly high-speed highway/city cornering and you can't be bothered to disco manually?
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Feb 24, 2008 01:34
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Aran posted:Since when is "Being neat" not enough reason to do something? Because Jeep shouldn't do things for that reason. Let Land Rover (which used to be utilitarian like Jeep, but in this country they are way too far gone so gently caress it), BMW, Mercedes, Lexus, etc do that poo poo. Driving a jeep should be a manly experience, if you are too much of a pussy to reach your arm in and disconnect a sway bar you need to drive a Liberty, not a Wrangler. I drove a CJ5 for a while and at times it loving sucked, but that was part of the experience which I loved. THAT is what "Its a Jeep thing" is all about. I honestly don't think the "jeep thing" brotherhood exists in much more than "same car buddies we like driving in the MUD" these days. /soapbox. (also I almost bought a Wrangler Rubi Unlimited, so don't get me wrong they are great trucks I'm just a huge cynic and long for the jeeps of old I guess. Dealing with the original "Jeep" every day has that effect on you)
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Feb 24, 2008 01:52
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Octavio Barnaby Sr. posted:Well, that and Jeeps should be very simple. Well yeah, that's the other reason why I wish Jeep would be more like the utilitarian Jeeps of old. Why use a motor and magnet and various other craziness when a bolt and nut or even a pin will do just fine, be more reliable, cheaper, etc.
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Feb 24, 2008 02:53
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Boomerjinks posted:THIS. You realize you drive a YJ, right? A whole lot closer on the utilitarian spectrum to a CJ than a JK, which is what we were talking about.
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Feb 24, 2008 15:32
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Baby Hitler posted:You always want to have a tow vehicle heavier than the sum of what you are towing, so maybe a mid 90s 5.2L Cherokee Laredo with the tow package (better trans cooler, rear end and springs I think) are great and are dead reliable if you remember to fill the trans with the proper dodge ATF. My best friend's 94 GC laredo made it 280K miles and 2 hard teenage drivers on it only with a transmission change at 200K, I think the wrong ATF killed it the second time but the engine was fine, passed smog, and drove great (minus trans) at 280K. Interior short of the seats stayed together pretty well, too. Wait... The tow vehicle always needs to be heavier than what you are towing? Seriously? I just towed an 1100lb steel double axle UHaul trailer (with inertia brakes) with a '63 Fairlane on it (which I'm not sure about but I'm guessing it easily weighs 4,000lb... its pretty loving big and all steel). My truck has a class-IV load leveling hitch, heavy duty alt, batt, dual tranny coolers, oil cooler, Toyota Canada rear leaf springs (truck sits 1.5" higher than the stock TRD suspension and is stiffer).... I doubt my Tacoma Double cab weighs more than 5100lb... Or does it? It was perfectly fine, regardless (I was much more worried about the lovely trailer...). The truck does have a long wheel base though, like 130". I've also towed a Beetle on the same type of trailer, and once two jeeps on an even larger trailer (although that was just for a short distance in town as I'm pretty sure it was over the 7500lb rating of the truck). I've heard this statement before, I just don't think it is *always* true. We have a guy who delivers vehicles for us at work who has an F350 with a gooseneck trailer that he tows... uh... definitely more than the weight of that truck with (for sure...)
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Feb 24, 2008 20:03
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Atticus_1354 posted:It's what I tell people who have no towing experience and want to to something ridiculous with their crappy vehicle. It isn't really true, but if your car isn't set up for towing it is good advice to follow. Oh ok, makes sense. Yeah I was about to post that I would not pull a 3000lb car on the trailer with a Wrangler, and most likely not with a Cherokee - unless it was a well equipped one that was well maintained and was pretty new. Even then, for multiple 100+ mile trips towing a car on a trailer you probably want something better, like a full size pickup (hell i wouldn't want to do that all the time in my truck, and it works just fine... But it is working it can handle it, but a full size domestic pickup with a diesel/big gas V8 would be a lot nicer.
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Feb 24, 2008 20:46
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Octavio Barnaby Sr. posted:A Wrangler will tow a 3,000 pound car, I pulled my Nissan about 20 miles behind the 2.5l 5spd that I now own. Well, it sounds like he'll be towing 100+ miles fairly often. Like I said, I wouldn't do it.
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Feb 25, 2008 00:51
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I bet Cali has something like Colorado has: Trail Damage
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Mar 17, 2008 12:09
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piezo4 posted:It's time for the rains to wash all the salt off the roads so she can come out of the barn. God get rid of those huge, ugly turn signals. Get some that will go where the blackout lights go, on the grill.
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Mar 20, 2008 12:10
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CommieGIR posted:Fixed. What did you even change about his post?!
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Mar 20, 2008 13:20
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Money Walrus posted:
What the hell is a "nice beather"? Anyway, yes for $1500 you might find an XJ or MJ. You won't find a TJ, YJ, or CJ that isn't in need of serious work/rusting to dust for that price. I know this is true- at least in my area, I am currently on a long-term hunt for an open-top Jeep. I have owned and daily-driven a CJ5 everywhere. It was such a piece of poo poo, though. Floor was rusting to nothing. Fuel pump was belching as much fuel down the side of the block as it was into the carb, etc. However, even though I never took the soft top off (just the doors) it was the most fun I've had driving anything. So I'm made it my mission this summer to find a Wrangler/CJ for a daily driver and off-roading. It seems that I could get a YJ for $1500-2000, but it will probably be a 4cyl or need a new motor. If it is a 4 banger it will likely need a new trans, etc. On a CJ at that price, rust is a serious problem. Or I might just buy a FSJ and take the doors off or something. I love those Cherokee's/Wagoneers and I could easily get something in good condition, like this: Grand Wagoneer for $1500 or less. Plus they will take some obscenely large tires from the factory.... and I'll have access to a bunch of military parts for M-715s. In other words I'd like to take the military wheels / tires from this:  and put them on this:  (The front inner-fenders will fit those 39s. The outers would have to be sawzall'd. The rear inner fenders would be cut out, and the outside would have to be cut. It would be worth it though. And you'd need a step ladder to get into the truck (715s are seriously interesting to get into). Disciple of Pain fucked around with this message at 15:00 on May 4, 2008 |
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May 4, 2008 14:18
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Delivery, McGee - I know I'd have to cut for big tires.SNiPER_Magnum posted:They just look so low from factory. I guess they do come with 30s though, so that isn't too much more. Remember that for those big tires the OUTER fenders have to be cut to poo poo. Thats understood. On most vehicles you would try to fit 38s on, however, without a lift - no amount of cutting is going to help you if you'd like to *turn*. The Wagoneer inner fenders are the same as the inner fenders on a M715. So you just need to cut the outers to fit. On many vehicles even if you flat-fender them, you won't be able to fit tires that massive. With stock spring and D60s or a SOA on the Wagoneer stock axles... You can fit 44's, if not larger with only cutting the outers.
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May 5, 2008 03:42
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:I know you can get huge tires under them, but the claim was 33s with no cutting. The one in the picture is stock with 30s, and the outer fender doesn't clear the tire by much. I'll take your word for it, but I wouldn't like to try it on a Narrow Track. Oh, yeah. I have no idea. I would be cutting so it doesn't matter. You only need an extra 1.5" of clearance in order to go from 30s to 33s. The angle of the pic makes the rear fenders look closer than they are, plus the truck is probably sagging a bit.
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May 5, 2008 14:39
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Isn't the 4.0 a direct descendant of the 4.2? I always thought the problems people had with the 4.2 was the "electronic" carb / early FI, etc.
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May 5, 2008 16:40
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Do all Dana 44's have a recessed drain plug in the bottom? I had previously thought that drain plugs (as opposed to just popping off the plate) were a Toyota thing (where there is no plate, just a removeable third which is actually awesome, but too involved for just changing the fluid)? I don't remember my friend's XJ with a d44 having a drain plug (we sure didn't use it) - but the early Dana 44's under the Willys MBs and Ford GPWs at work have drain plugs (which is loving awesome).
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May 15, 2008 19:34
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Valgarv posted:
Everyone says that, but IMO it is mostly true for when you are shopping for a Jeep. If I'm going to build an off-roader and will be swapping the axles (which if I were you I wouldn't do until those 35s let go, it could be a LONG time if you are careful with the skinny pedal - or it could be sooner) I'd go for Dana 60s or some other full-size truck axle. In my experience they are probably just as easy to find (there are a lot of 1 ton trucks in junkyards with perfectly fine axles), you will need to do some fabricating though - but you'll end up with an axle that can take huge tires + abuse and pretty much never break.
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May 15, 2008 20:15
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Atticus_1354 posted:It depends on what type of offroader he is trying to build. If he just wants something with 33" tires I wouldn't go over a dana 44 because you are just losing ground clearance. Not everything need to be overbuilt. If he does want to go big then more power to him. If you aren't going to go over 33" tires then I would definitely wait until the d35s break. Maybe when one goes do both, probably not though assuming the rear goes first.
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May 15, 2008 20:30
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Valgarv posted:Right now I have 33's on it, I'd like the option down the line to put bigger tires on, maybe after these wear out. How light do I need to be on the gas so I don't rip these things apart? if they do collapse what kind of damage will it cause? As far as I've ever seen (and I've seen some pretty trashed d44's coming in on WWII Jeeps), if the axle goes, the axle will need to be replaced. I can't see any reason anything else will be damaged (axle shafts might be, but you'd be replacing those with the new axle anyway). I'm guessing they aren't full floated axles so if you really gently caress the axle bad you might have a tough time moving the truck out of where it happens. On a FF you can carry some non-locking front hub pieces and if you grenade the axle you can simply pull the axle shafts, install those pieces in their place (rear wheels are now free-spinning), and then drop the rear driveshaft off of the xfer case and tie it up and out of the way. Congrats you have a FWD Jeep to get you home. Process would be similar if you grenade the front, except you could just put it in 2WD instead of loving with the driveshaft and just unlock your front hubs if you have lockouts. That said I'm 99% sure those axles are no full floating so it might be a lot more difficult. Usually you'll have a warning sign before an axle go so bad you are STUCK where you are because it is so disabled.
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May 15, 2008 21:30
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Bottom of the diff? Not that I've seen. Maybe it's a military-only thing. You can still suck the fluid out through the fill plug on the cover. Meh. Sucking it out sucks. Yeah, bottom of the diff on the military ones (I don't know if a CJ2A axle would be the same, possibly) has a place for a 1/2" square drive (ie ratchet) to drain from the bottom. It is totally recessed/flush with the housing which is probably why I never noticed it in 3 years of loving with those old heaps.
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May 15, 2008 22:22
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murphle posted:MB's and GPW's didn't use D44's, which is why you're confused. D44's don't have drain plugs in the bottom. D44's showed up in Jeeps starting with the CJ-3A. You're probably referring to Spicer 23's if you're talking about MB and GPW Jeeps. Haha. Yeah, you're right. I had always looked at diagrams like those above and assumed they were 44s. They have covers that pretty much look like 44 covers. I just looked in the US Army manual and it is a Dana-Spicer 23-2 in the rear and a Dana 25 in the front. There you have it.
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May 16, 2008 13:42
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How would this be for a mild 'wheeler? Jeep Pioneer It doesn't look horrible. From what I can tell it has the early 4.0L, the AW-4 4sp AT, D30 High Pinion in the Front. It has either a d44 (doubtful as I don't see a receiver hitch thinger), or a non-c-clip (better, I assume) d35 out back. I'm not too worried about the Dana 35 if that is what it has. I wouldn't be going too crazy with this initially and if I decide to, or I end up breaking the axle I have no problem swapping it. I think I would almost prefer an automatic.
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May 20, 2008 14:08
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I think whether that is a good option or not I will be getting an XJ very soon. They are abundant on Craiglists, which means that I will have lots of options and also (because other buyers have lots of options) the trucks sit for a long time on CL and sellers are more flexible on price. Pretty much the opposite of Land Cruisers, which I was previously considering (although I have a line on an FJ55, so there is an off chance I may still end up with one). It seems like the Cherokee is pretty *the* vehicle for an entry level / budget off-road vehicle. Based on vehicle availability, initial price, parts availability, and price of parts it seems lower than anything else, and they can also be made quite capable. Solid axles front and rear, as I've found wheeling to be way less fun with IRS.
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May 20, 2008 15:18
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How about this Jeep? It was listed a while ago at $1200. Now it is $1000. If I could get it to <$800 I will buy it assuming nothing major is wrong (previous owner says there are no problems with it at all). It is a 4x4. I'm not SURE about the engine, but I'm guessing it is a 6 as the interior looks nice-ish compared to a stripper model: 88 Cherokee
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May 20, 2008 19:28
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leica posted:One single clunk over any significant bump/hole at low speed. I noticed it a bit going in and out of my driveway in Florida (which had basically a curb at the end of it) and didn't think much of it, but on the trail it was much more prominent. Strut bearing, maybe? They sometimes make clunking noises. Jack up the front wheels and see if you can move the strut in the tower. You shouldn't be able to.
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May 21, 2008 05:16
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Boomerjinks posted:Stuff... Every soft-top I've ever tried to take out of a box and put on a Jeep is like that. By the way, how was your recent trip to Sears/Foothills Mall? 
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May 24, 2008 12:37
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I got a Cherokee.... ...and not a wussy unibody one either. This thing is big, ugly, 8 feet wide, it has a 360 cube V8 with a 4 barrel, dual glasspack exhaust, and a motherfuckin' frame. Pics tomorrow. Also, someone tell me places to find FSJ poo poo. Thanks.
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Jun 5, 2008 05:32
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Hell yeah, baby! That's what I'm talking about! What year and drivetrain? 1974. It has a TH400 automatic, so it is Quadra-Trac. The PO said it has a low-range but he removed the knob you pull to engage it? So I don't know. Are these supposed to have a center diff-lock? How do I engage low and the diff lock if it has one? There are no levers in the floor (column shift auto)?
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Jun 5, 2008 08:43
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Disciple of Pain posted:1974. It has a TH400 automatic, so it is Quadra-Trac. The PO said it has a low-range but he removed the knob you pull to engage it? So I don't know. Are these supposed to have a center diff-lock? How do I engage low and the diff lock if it has one? There are no levers in the floor (column shift auto)? Ok. So I found out what the deal is. It has (or should/will) a cable-operated low-range unit on the back of the transfer case. The BW1339 transfer case has a limited slip inside of it. It can be locked, however. Apparently there is a knob in the glove box that controls a vacuum-actuated "EMERGENCY DRIVE" that locks the center diff. Apparently the LSD is good enough that locking the center diff is rarely needed off-road.
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Jun 5, 2008 09:43
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ZippySLC posted:A TJ is a better Jeep all the way around. The YJ has probably the worst ride that I've ever seen. Just about everything in the TJ is an improvement, most notably the suspension and livability. Yeah. I don't know what it is, but YJs have a worse ride than even the otherwise much less refined CJ7/5/3/2/MBs. Actually a military-sprung M38A1 (military CJ5) probably comes real close, but most of those leafs are sagging by insane amounts after the USFS/ranchers have over-loaded them for years.
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Jun 5, 2008 14:06
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Alright. Because I love AI so much (and my dog really had to pee) I went out in a god drat monsoon to take pictures of the beast for you guys. Be impressed:    It is free of any serious rust... except for the rockers. Oh god the rockers. They are pretty much gone. At one time someone tried to bondo some fiberglass over the rust holes or something and... it ended poorly. Luckily replacement rockers are $45/side. Not bad, and I'm confident enough in my welding skill to weld them in. That said, until I get and install them... is there any reason why I can't run around with these just cut off? Yes you would be able to see more frame, but do they really DO anything? I'm also thinking of just saying gently caress the rockers and bolting/welding on some 2 or 3 inch steel box-tube. It will save me the problem of loving up my newly repaired rockers on rocks and such. I think that my transfer case chain might also be slipping. I really got on the gas hard making a left turn going to work and for a moment it felt/sounded like the rear driveshaft came loose and was spiraling into the floor behind me. Obviously it didn't, but it was pretty violent. Although it may have just been wheel hop. With this stiff suspension if might feel like that - my Tacoma will hop the wheels and it can be pretty violent with all that gaining/losing traction over and over. Edit: oh yeah - $500... and those tires are *brand* new. I could probably get $250 for them. They are pretty nice M+S tires.
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Jun 5, 2008 16:15
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Atticus_1354 posted:Glad to see everyone getting some cool Jeeps. Can't wait for more updates about the FSJ Cherokee. Eh. The transfer case chain is slipping and rocker replacement is more than I want to handle. I'm just going to flip it.
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Jun 6, 2008 14:02
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:My rockers were replaced before, but my quarters look like Swiss cheese. As far as I know, the rockers don't actually do anything but look pretty. Don't quote me on that though. Yeah. I'm actually thinking about checking out the transfer-case before I sell it. If it isn't totally dying I will likely keep this and just run it into the ground off-road. Make it a true trail-whore. . If nothing else I will be able to honestly tell the buyer what is wrong. Is is not really possible for the chain to skip many teeth? At once? I guess that would quickly gently caress some poo poo up, huh? The noise I hear is basically this: From a stop, if I get on the gas hard I get a BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM. Sounds and feels like it is coming from under my butt. I was thinking that each BAM was a tooth being jumped, but you're right, as rapid and many times as it does it, that chain would be nuked or all bound-up, destroying the transfer case by now. So I wonder what it is... I don't think that the cones being bad would cause that kind of loud noise....? It sounds like someone it running an air-chisel or a 4 lb hammer on the sheet metal on the underside of the floor. This truck has a really ghetto exhaust system on it. I wonder if it is possible that when the engine torques the exhaust is sitting something/getting hit by something (d/s?) I'm going to take a look under the truck and see. I, too have heard that the rockers don't really do poo poo (which makes sense, it is a body on a beefy-rear end frame. If my transfer-case isn't about to poo poo the bed, I will likely just cut them off and see how it goes. If it looks real nasty or the body sags insanely (I doubt it), I'll welding in some big square tube that will be stronger and better off-road. If my doors sag a little I will eventually do it, but I don't really give a drat if the doors sag on this. If it is going to be a trail-slut, I'll probably take the doors off and make some tube-doors or something. So you say the low-range lever is UNDER THE SEAT? I'll go look right now and see if I see anything. The guy said he took off the cable, I assumed it was a cable and knob that connected to the low-range unit on the back of the t-case. Yeah, I tried my e-drive switch (which just dangles beside the glove box as it has no knob)... Nothing happened at all. In fact I drove in circles while flipping it back and forth with a pair of pliers and nothing happened.
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Jun 7, 2008 00:33
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Ok. Well that is a relief. I am 99% sure it is the weight on the drive shaft hitting the crappy home-made exhaust system, not the chain slipping. Here's the post I made on IFSJA (what a great resource):me on IFSJA posted:Well. I think I discovered the problem! Luckily (I am still going to check my chain slack and replace soon if it is needed), it is the weight on the driveshaft that is hitting the homemade exhaust system. Between the the shaft and the glasspack there is only about 1/4" clearance. The weight is easily 1/8" thick. I imagine when I accelerate hard, the drivetrain torques enough to cause the weight to hit the glasspack. The big hollow piece of steel being hit by the sharp-edged weight seems like it would make a sound similar to what I'm hearing. Disciple of Pain fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Jun 7, 2008 |
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Jun 7, 2008 15:02
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Atticus_1354 posted:Thank god. I was afraid you were going to give up without a fight. No. And now that I know none of the major systems are dead or about to die, I'm going to keep it and use it... hard. I sell almost every vehicle I buy for a profit. I've decided on this one to just make sure I get my $500 of fun out of it before it shits the bed, then just scrap it. If it lasts 1 year or 10 years I won't be selling it, except in pieces. It my be a month or so before I can get it trail-ready, however. Although I guess even in its stock configuration I'd feel comfortable taking it out and putting it through its paces. Wag sag be damned, if this is going to be a trail slut I'm not supposed to care if I gently caress stuff up, and I'm cutting the rockers off anyway.
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Jun 7, 2008 18:14
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MrZig posted:If you're cutting the rockers out, you might want to try and pick up some scrap steel and make some custom home made rock rails. I spose if you're just beating the poo poo out of it you probably wouldn't mind crunching up your doors anyways eh? I'm going to use 2"x3" or 3"x3" rectangular steel tubing. Something like that, and simply weld/bolt it in place of the stock rockers. I'm likely taking the doors off for good, though anyway. I may take a look at the hinges and see how hard it would be to make some simple tube-doors, but I probably won't care enough for that right away. First I need to fix this exhaust issue. With all of the rocks around here, protecting the exhaust is important. I've seen many, many pinched or ripped off exhausts. Any idea how to route it so it will be better protected? I was thinking about routing the exhaust pipes up over the rear axle and just running turn-downs so the exhaust will be mostly up above the bumper/frame level.
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Jun 8, 2008 19:16
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MrZig posted:Awesome. Yeah, I though about that, but how would I route it so it would exit out the sides a bit. I will probably do something like that temporarily (sans muffler). I'll try to get it to exit behind the front seat. I won't be running mufflers on it though, at that point (I'd rather have it be loud as poo poo and losing torque than continue to have the driveshaft contacting the big glasspack. It can't be good for the u-joints/balance of the drive shaft.
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Jun 8, 2008 19:44
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So I'm thinking about ditching the dual exhaust. The reason why the glasspack is hitting the driveshaft is because it pretty much HAS to be that close to it - there is a massive gas tank and skid plate blocking a more conventional path. SO, I don't know. I might just fab a y-pipe (or possibly buy one... apparently you can get them from Rock Auto). OR maybe I'll just figure something out and have side-exits or even exits under the cab. I'm thinking after I cut the rockers/fenders and pull the doors off I am going to use a DA or pinstripe remover on a drill to get rid of the nasty white stripe on the side. Then I'm going to take some gloss black and mix it with US Army Olive Drab, then paint the whole truck that color. Or maybe leave the top white. Thoughts on that? The semi-gloss "dark" OD looks like this (used on M38A1s and M715/725s):  For the MV nuts, it is going to be OD24087, although probably a bit darker (which was very common at the unit level, simply by adding more black to the paint.... some 'Nam trucks were apparently *almost* black for certain missions specifications - night convoys, etc).
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Jun 9, 2008 05:33
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:I think the two-tone white top would look cool. I'd at least give it a try at first to see what it looks like. You can always go back over it. Or cover it with green canvas. Yeah. I think the white top would look cool, too. And you're right... if it looks like crap, OD covers *everything* really well. I think my manual crank might be messed up. The window goes down on its own about 2 inches, and you can only crank it down about a foot before it feels like it hits something and stops. As this is going to be a camping rig as well, I might eventually rig up some type of snap system and canvas to divide the front seat area from the rest and then another to go where the rear window would go. Then pull the rear seats (maybe, they are in poo poo condition - so something needs to be done) and make a flat platform to go back there for storage and/or sleeping. I'd prefer to sleep in a good tent, but being able to weatherproof supplies would be nice. I could always use the same system for winter driving (and maybe keep the doors to slap on when it is cold. I don't think I would be driving a whole lot in the winter, but it would be nice to put them on to keep the weather out...
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Jun 9, 2008 06:27
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