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I know someone was looking for a flatty. I think this is still for sale. I'd be all over it, but I'm not buying any more cars for a while. http://denver.craigslist.org/car/742130869.html $750 Cj3a in Good Shape (running, rust free?)
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Jul 9, 2008 14:38
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talk me out of a 48 2A for $500. These things seem to get much higher prices. I could get it running, fix some rust, and weld on a new frame horn and have a fun little MV clone or stock Jeep to drive when it is nice. The Mv place I used to work at has a ton of civvie parts that we have stripped off. These thingscare dead simple and I would consider myself a master mechanic as far as their specifics go. I'm selling a motorcycle for $400ish. Convince me not to turn that money into a jeep project.
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Sep 17, 2008 04:57
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Rough Country 4.5" Lift. SYE. Flowmaster. 4.0HO. 4sp auto. Immaculate interior. 1993. 200,000 mi. 120psi on all 6. No issues except for minor stuff on the front end (cracked grill and top piece, cracked marker light. Fenders and hook are 100%). Colorado car. No Rust. No paint issues (fading, peeling, etc). Mine. $850*   I'm pretty pleased. I've been looking for a 4x4 for a while, since I got rid of my Tacoma. This will fit the bill nicely and probably (definitely) be better off-road. It is the premium Up-Country edition so it has nice captain's chairs with nice material and arms rests and junk. PO took his aftermarket head unit so I will have to replace it with a cheap one from Wal-Mart or something. *I traded a car that I paid $750 for and put about $100 into. I think I got a pretty good deal. I've never seen such a nice interior. Driver's seat frame is busted a bit though and causes some rocking (to be replaced with a junkyard seat frame. I think it might have an aftermarket rear hatch? Does that exist. It seems like it is non-metallic to me (I'd say CF but I'm guessing fiberglass?). Does that exist? Doesn't bother me much as the paint matches FLAWLESSLY in person.
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Oct 14, 2008 17:17
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JaySB posted:I just joined the Jeep family this week. Picked up a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 with 147k miles. I wouldn't drive it (especially on the freeway) with the trans slipping.  My driver's door is kind of messed up. The hinge part that is supposed to be welded to the unibody is broken and instead loosely bolted in. I am going to see about re-welding it myself. How hard is it to take off a fender... they just unbolt I hope? This problem causes my door to sag a tiny bit and you have to shut it pretty hard and it still leaks a bit of air at the top. It is my one gripe about stuff on this Jeep that I didn't see when I bought it. Runs and drives great. Mechanically it is perfect. Just need to fix the seat and door (hopefully). The other cosmetic stuff is not a huge deal (cracked grill, etc).
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Oct 15, 2008 15:09
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JaySB posted:Meh, it cost me $300....If it broke down on me tomorrow or caught on fire, or I took it and jumped it and rolled it, I'd get my money's worth. You could probably (that is if you haven't already trashed the trans by driving with it slipping) adjust/get the trans fixed, fix the other little finnicky stuff yourself, and then sell it for more than you have into it. Hell, you could probably plug in a used junkyard trans for a couple hundred and make some cool cash. 1995 isn't that old, a lot of people would drive that as their only car. Driving a Jeep into the ground can make you a part of the Jeep family. Buying a Jeep that needs major repairs and driving it anyway so that it will end up at the crusher should exclude you from the Jeep family. That's just cruel. I know its just a GC, but still - really isn't nice to do that to any car. Really wasteful and I'm sure when your tranny grenades on the highway causing you to spin out of control or end up with an immoveable car in the left/right/exit/on-ramp/narrow shoulder the 10,000 people behind you who are now in a traffic jam and just trying to get home from/to work will really appreciate it.
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Oct 15, 2008 21:30
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Kilonum posted:
His star is in the wrong place. Although some were in the "wrong" place when they were put on during the war, so whatever. So uh, I'm getting an M37. Can I join the Jeep party? I mean, they're all family now, right (M37 was made by Dodge).  Also. That is the end-goal. This is her now:   Shouldn't be a problem. Everything is all original, and I've restored a few MVs over the past 5 years (like, dozens and dozens) This will be the first one that is *mine* however. EDIT: Plus, they called these "Jeeps" during the Korean war. Disciple of Pain fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Nov 7, 2008 |
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Nov 7, 2008 03:39
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MrZig posted:Sorry I didn't mention that this is happening in 4x4-Full Time. The transfer case has a center differential, and with the front end jacked up, should send all power to the front. All the banging noise was the rear driveshaft trying to turn as well, but since it was on the ground, it couldn't. I'm still mistified why it crowhops around tight corners and bangs going straight.. Sounds like it. Maybe replace the U-Joints and see what happens. Its never a bad idea to replace them if they aren't fairly recent. But that doesn't seem like it would make the car hop around turns. Although I guess if it is suddenly and forcefully jolting power to the rears on and off it would make it seem like that. I have no idea, but I wouldn't do that anymore if I were you. If something is hosed up in the transfer case and the rear driveshaft is trying to move, you're lucky it didn't come off the stands. I've tested full time 4x4s similar to this but I would say a safer way is 4 wheels in the air, then engage the parking brake. I've also seen a guy I worked with use his bare hands, and then a block of wood to stop the wheels he wanted to stop on a Subaru. I looked up from the Jeep I was working on with amazement that he was about to grab a spinning tire without even nitrile gloves on. Anyway, it worked but it must have loving hurt because he use a 4x4 for the last 3 wheels. I forget what he was doing but he's a great mechanic (we were at a primative shop to put it mildly), ASE master, former rally mech, etc. I have no idea what he was thinking (he's also missing a piece of his finger from some other incident so I dunno). Disciple of Pain fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Nov 7, 2008 |
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Nov 7, 2008 04:39
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Former/Possible future Jeeper checking in. I had a 91? I think for a week or two this fall, took it on a trade for a different car. It had a few issues, a 4" lift or so, and was pretty fun to drive. It was a $1500 Jeep though... Now I'm looking for a do it all daily driver. Right now I have a VW GTI VR6. I'm planning on selling that and I will probably get ~8500-9500 for it. Now... I don't know if it is even possible to find a non-insanely modified Cherokee for that price. I'm seeing very nice ones from 97-2001 (the only years I'm interested in - actually most like would want 2000 or 2001). However, I'm looking to purchase either a Vespa/Buddy 150 or smaller Honda CB to use in nice weather for solo trips, and a repair reserve and/or savings account boost would not bother me. So I'll say my budget is probably ~5000-6000 depending on what I'd be getting if I spent the extra. I come to you to ask if a Cherokee will work for my mission profile: -Commuting, including several times a year in snow (I'm a teacher and am out before the plows even when it isn't a snow day). -Trips into the mountains for skiing, snowshoeing, cycling, camping -Cross-country interstate trips (at least from CO to IA and back once a year) -The ability to carry two bikes with ease -The ability to pull a U-Haul trailer for moving, or for pulling a U-Haul autohauler with a car on it (not super long distances, and not regularly). -Some off-roading in and of itself, but also associated and necessary for aforementioned camping, biking, etc. In a sense I want to have a very mild "expedition rig" that can carry a lot of stuff, people, supplies, be able to avoid getting stuck anywhere (although realistically rock crawling big boulders isn't required to "get somewhere" so that would not be the goal - I'm worried more about deep snow / mud), and if I go get stuck, be able to self-recover (eventually I would put on a winch and at least a rear locker, depending on how much I find myself pushing my comfort off-road). These aren't something I'd be using all the time by any means, just for peace of mind. Can it take care of my needs? I don't think I would go with more than some mildy larger/more aggressive tires and a small-medium lift. Possibly front and rear bumpers and a rear tire carrier. Expedition rack. Additional lighting. It will probably be an automatic because I find it easier off-road, and a manual in a truck doesn't really make for any excitement for me on-road. Are these vehicles easy to work on at home? Parts inexpensive? These are big as my GTI is difficult to get to anything, and parts are pricey and it is very easy to get the wrong parts from anyone but the dealer. Tell me what you think. I'm thinking something like this: 2000 Cherokee 99k miles FYI I am/was also considering a Subaru Outback (less so because they are more money and frankly I know cannot complete all of the needs listed above), and a FJ80, but an LC would be older, more miles, and still pricier.
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May 2, 2009 13:43
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Maybe you shouldn't have gotten rid of your big beast Cherokee. Haha. Yeah, except pulling a trailer with that could probably result in one of the following with 100% certainty, probably more than one: 1. Ripping ball off of the bumper 2. Ripping bumper off of the frame 3. Destroying magical unobtanium transfer case that cost more than 3x what the truck was worth. 4. Breaking rusty frame in the middle and grinding to a stop at the edge of a cliff I was thinking it might be a problem for towing. That is the least important one by far. Its not like I buy THAT many cars that don't run/drive, and those that do I can always rent the U-Haul truck to pull it with. I know I looked into towing a (pretty light) Nissan Patrol with my gf's parents' Grand Cherokee and it was a no-go. I should have included the things I would more likely tow: sailboat, U-Haul box trailer (thinking about making a run to IKEA in Draper, Utah this summer after I buy whatever I buy. About 400miles one way over the mountains. Would like to be able to buy enough stuff to outfit a 750sq ft apartment, so a 8x12 or something UHaul would be *nice*, not to mention filling the rear of the Jeep with flatpack and various accessories.
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May 2, 2009 14:33
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:It's a Jeep thing. What transfer case did you have? Quadratrac? Yeah, it was the full time AWD xfer with a low range unit. When I sold it I was thinking the chains were slipping, which meant it would die soon and leave me with a tow-away really only worth scrap. Actually I was about 90% sure the sound I was hearing was the balance weight on the driveshaft hitting the ghetto dual exhaust. Yeah I know how to tow. I used to push my 07 Tacoma to the limits, mostly because my boss's 1 ton Dodge dually want a piece of poo poo. I towed that thing like 45 miles with a strap, and then again on a sketch rear end dolly design for military vehicles. I've towed sailboats with it, probably 15 different cars ranging from VW bus (can't see poo poo out the back), to 53 Ford (heavy as poo poo), to 63 Fairlane (hung off the back of the autohauler by like 8 feet). I know I would avoid that kind of nonsense in the Cherokee, I'd much rather use a Uhaul POS anyway. If I get one and it comes with a bumper hitch or no hitch I'll be putting on a class 2. I think the Tacoma was technically a borderline Class IV, it was mounted all the way up the frame on several points - even up past the front of the bed. The truck was amazing in that a fully loaded trailer would cause the front and rear to sag almost the same, no "nose-high" situation, ever. Somebody school me on the differences between SE, Sport, Classic, Limited. A link will work, I've found a couple that list the differences, but (specifically for 97+), are there any big advantages/drawbacks to one over the other. All I really need are power windows, AT, power locks. I'd prefer fabric seats as I really like the rugged fabric in the Cherokees.
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May 2, 2009 15:14
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yaffle posted:Can anyone give me a ballpark estimate for the cost of rebuilding the engine of an 88 Cherokee? Considering the 4.0 is immortal, that information really isn't something that can be known... (why not just drop in a junkyard longblock, or even better - rebuild it yourself for a couple hundred bucks.)
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May 4, 2009 03:26
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No, not a diesel Wrangler. Some countries in South America ordered M38 and M38A1 (CJ5s) with diesels though. EDIT: I remembered. I think there were two options. I know one of them was a little Perkins 4 cylinder. The other one may or may not have been an option (I've never seen any of these, and only one M38 with the Perkins - from Bolivia I think), but I know it was used on US military FC Jeeps- was a 3 cylinder 2 stroke diesel. I have no idea who made that (Detroit Diesel maybe but I have no clue really)... Disciple of Pain fucked around with this message at 02:23 on May 23, 2009 |
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May 23, 2009 02:13
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Alright. I have settled on a Jeep for my next car. I have owned a Cherokee briefly, I will probably be trading in my GTI on this car, if I can't sell it privately. I want to stay under 10,000. I see both nice 99-2001 Jeep Cherokees (XJ) and also 2000-2004 Grand Cherokees (WJ) for the same price. I was a little surprised, I would have thought the WJ would be a lot more expensive. Help me out here... pros and cons of XJ vs WJ? I've tried to find information comparing them online, but it hasn't been easy. Obviously the Cherokee is more popular with enthusiasts and off-roaders, but drat those WJs look nice, can tow more, etc. What worries me some about them is the increased complexity. I'm guessing they are going to be less reliable and harder to work on? Is that true? If so I will probably go with the XJ.
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May 26, 2009 11:54
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Is it typical for an XJ to have a little bit of a wheezy/whiney sound around/above 3000rpm? I test drove a 2000 XJ, AT, 4.0 today and apart from the sound and a few other issues it was really nice. The dealer also said he would give me $1500 and the Jeep in exchange for my car (and I didn't even negotiate the price of the Jeep yet). It was a Sport. The front speakers did not work or were not connected (when you moved the fade all the way to the front, no noise). No serious cosmetic problems, paint is not faded or pitted. The other issue that concerns me is that the trans felt like is was shifting a little bit high, but I've also not been in an automatic for quite a while, especially not a 4 speed like that. Engine bay was *clean*, overall the whole car looked and drove pretty nice (I think it needs a little bit of an alignment. Steering is tight and it doesn't pull at all, but going straight, the steering wheel is a bit to the left. If you ignore it though, you can't tell there is anything weird about it.) The Jeep is like Maroon or something, i forget what it is called. Looks NICE.
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May 27, 2009 00:15
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fordham posted:This is the same Jeep I have - I always thought it shifted a little low, I'd rather it waited a bit longer to upshift. Yeah, I'm going to drive some other ones and see if they have the whine. The only Cherokee I've driven had a lift, knobbier tires, and a flowmaster, so if there was whine I don't remember it - but probably wouldn't be able to hear it either. It is almost a whistle... I suppose it is easy to hear because the car is really quiet on the inside. Not too much engine, exhaust, road, or wind noise - which is good. I know stock VR6s have hollow camshafts which would whine/howl above certain RPMs and generally sound stupid, so I'm optimistic that it is just how they sound. Tomorrow I am going to test drive a 97 5sp for the same price (same miles as well and while 5sp are really rare and I don't necessarily need a manual on this - I trust man-trans to outlast and have fewer issues that slushboxes, especially once they are over the century mark. I've driven few autos that didn't feel like something was a little slow/off/weird in a car with more than 100,000mi. With stick shifts if the clutch and the TO bearing are OK and the synchros are OK (all can be determined pretty well right off the bat), I feel fairly certain I won't be rebuilding/replacing the trans in the next 100k miles.
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May 27, 2009 02:38
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Yeah, I've heard they are rock-solid. Its good to know that the AW-4 is a good unit as well, though. I did a little research and it seems that the slightly higher/lower than normal shifting is often due to a TPS that needs cleaned/reset.
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May 27, 2009 04:37
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ManicJason posted:Eh... my first AX-15 lost its third gear synchro and then completely shat itself at 130k. I bought it with 97k, so I guess previous owners could have been hard on it, but I wasn't really. With that situation it was almost certainly something the previous owner did, not you. It is pretty hard to destroy a manual transmission in 30k miles unless you are actually *trying* to kill it. And this is coming from a former Saab 900 Turbo owner. I went to look at another AT Jeep today instead of driving all of the way to Boulder. This one is a pretty much loaded Classic. It is silver/gray with matching wheels. Everything is color-keyed and looks really nice. Even the spare matches the other 4 alloys (it has some curb rash so I think the PO bought a new one to replace it and kept that as the spare). Factory fog lights, overhead console with MPG, ET, etc, etc. The faceplate to the aftermarket stereo is missing (although they might have it at the dealership). Even the owner's manual is included. I think this one has a different transfercase than the Sport I drove earlier. THis one has 2W, 4H part time, 4H FULL TIME, N, 4L. I didn't know that was available on Cherokees (I thought only GCs) and it is a big selling point for me to be able to drive around in the mild snow/slush in essentially AWD (vs 4x4 where you can't turn well in parking lots, etc). Also, this 4.0 did not have any whine noise like the previous one (so that one is out), the transmission shifted better, and in general the whole car was in nicer shape. The driver's seat actually have a couple of small rips on the sides, but I'm guessing finding a replacement seat is not impossible. Good news is despite having 20k less miles, being in better condition, no engine whine, and being a Classic vs Sport the dealership said they would MATCH the other dealer's deal where they give me the Jeep + 1500 for my car. I am going to look at a Sport tomorrow that only has 61,000 on it (the first one was 121, this one today was 99). There is only a small price premium and the dealer is not really as reputable. It seems weird to go with dealers in this case, but similar condition/miles trucks privately are going for a lot more (as least asking), and they are offering me good money on my trade, about 90% of what I think I could get privately after a lot of hassle. EDIT: This classic had cruise control too, which is semi-important as I will be driving this halfway across the country and then half way to California all this summer alone. Disciple of Pain fucked around with this message at 00:25 on May 28, 2009 |
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May 28, 2009 00:23
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Clamwacker posted:Edit: ^^^^^^ I'm sure I remember you saying where you were from before, but your profile says you're in my mom's rear end... so since my mom is in Oregon, if you'd bother to climb out of there you'd see that it's sunny and beautiful in this state right now. Wouldn't bigger tires increase your top speed, to a point?
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May 29, 2009 11:22
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Clamwacker posted:Maybe, if Wranglers weren't shaped like a pregnant cinder block. As it is, the engine RPMs are lower at higher speeds, but the larger tires weigh much more. This is the main reason why people with stock axles and 35" or larger tires tend to keep breaking axles. OIC. I was thinking you were gear limited, you are power limited (and I guess gear limited because in top gear you are below the powerband that might net you a few extra MPH).
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May 29, 2009 13:33
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If I were you, I'd just make one thread to chronical whatever you do. It doesn't have to be a big project thread. Some people will probably disagree but they don't have to read it, and I would say it is a better place than this thread.
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May 31, 2009 17:37
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I hope you're using 134A and not real Freon (which you can't buy, but hopefully you're not using an old can from your garage).
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May 31, 2009 21:43
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leica posted:I'd buy one if it was a good bit cheaper than a 4x4. Living in Florida and cruising the around the beaches there's no need for 4wd. There's a lot of them in FL. Most Wranglers never go off pavement anyway. Yeah, exactly. Probably a solid 30% of Wrangler buyers will never NEED 4wd. Note that you don't NEED 4wd for snow in most areas of the country, there are plows, it doesn't get that deep (and frankly, without lockers you will only get slightly farther with 4WD than 2WD in deep snow.) Don't forget the DJ. It was available to the general public, through special order.
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Jun 11, 2009 20:47
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ph4lcon posted:I have a 98 Jeep Cherokee and I need to recharge my AC before I go to Florida next week. Which port do I use, I found three of them one with a green cap, and two with a black cap. Also what all would I need to do this on the cheap? Usually green caps are evap system, black is A/C. I don't know if that is universal, but it has been on the few cars I've owned with A/C.
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Jun 12, 2009 17:20
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