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Should I buy this Jeep?   For sale locally. 1978 CJ7 with 136,000 miles. Current owner got it a year ago and needs the money. Not much history on it, the body is rough (hence the rattlecan black). The bad: There are several spots on the tub rusted through. The front fenders have patches welded on. The window seals need replacing and the parking brake is disconnected. The front and rear differentials have air tubes running up to the hood(?). All the wires have been sloppily rerun up high. The suspension has been lifted, but with original leaf springs and shocks by flipping the axles under. (A plate is welded to the u-bolt axle bracket.) Fuel gage is broken. Gas tank may have rust. Needs new driver's seat. Runs w/o a key. The good: V8: AMC 304ci, 3 speed manual. After replacing the fuel filter it starts right up and idles fine. New 31" tires. 2" bumpers w/ d-rings and front and back 2" receivers. Transmission shifts fine and clutch is solid. Transfer case seems to do its job. Frame is solid. Lights, wipers, power steering and heater work. The asking price is $2500 but I think I can get it for $1900. I like it because its already beat on the body, but solid drivetrain. I wouldn't feel bad about a little abuse. I like it for the project aspect, redoing some of the wireing and fix the parking brake, maybe lower it back to stock height. Use would be weekend cruising, snow driving and moving boats around (ie putting in and pulling out but not towing on the highway). Price good, bad or run away? giundy fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Aug 20, 2009 |
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Aug 20, 2009 03:20
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If anyone wants to steal my CJ do it now before I put a lock on! No key required is fun, but no steering wheels seems like an even better solution. I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the old ignition cylinder out from this point. Thats the turn signal switch hanging from the wire harness out of the column. You're supposed to compress a lock on this style. None of the guides online show this style. Maybe I'm just being too gentle and should just tear it out with pliers, but I'm afraid of breaking the plastic which will hold the new one in.
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Sep 23, 2009 02:21
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Steiler Drep posted:Besides, square headlights kick more rear end and who prefers a pussy rear end dashboard to a man's dashboard? This is a real man's dashboard.  And round headlights are the way to go. 
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Oct 12, 2009 02:34
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powderific posted:When my gas tank is full and the XJ rocks back and forth at all, it seriously sounds like there are ice cubes or something rolling around in my tank. WTF? Is this normal? Maybe some kind of... floaty thing...that's supposed to be in there? Does your gage work? Could be the sending unit float wandering around. New Jeep in the family:  1987 Cherokee, 172k miles, 4 door, 6 cyl auto. Its not something I would normally had gone looking for but the price was right, free! A guy at work just didn't want it anymore.
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Dec 7, 2009 06:25
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This Jeep: Does not want to start. I posted it a page back, I got it for free from a guy from work. He thought it was an 87, after looking at the door jam turns out its an 89. In 1989 these had throttle body with the 4.0L. It sat for 7 years with no prep for storage. The first thing I did was change the oil and replace the battery. Seafoam was put in the new oil and directly into the cylinder heads. Next the gas was drained and replaced. In order to get all the gas out I turned the engine on to pressurize the fuel lines and then bled the system. New gas was then inserted. I tried starting the Jeep at this point. It started for a second and quit. The engine turns over, but it sounds slow. I'm using a marine starting battery so it has the power to crank available. The gas is getting to fuel rail as is evident in the fuel pump pressurizing. I used a spark plug tester and replaced some of the old plugs. Each cylinder sparks normally. The air box hose broke off. It was shoddily repaired with duct tape before so I know that will be a vacuum leak later, but for now it means everything is getting air. So, what am I missing? It gets fuel, spark (current at least) and air while cranking over. I thought this engine could run with sand in it, what wrong with mine? The only odd thing I noticed is every time it turns over there is normal starter noise and belt noise, but also a faint low heartbeat for each turn. Sounds like air on the exhaust stroke maybe.
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Dec 16, 2009 06:22
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InitialDave posted:great post I'll follow that up with this dumb question, the marks on my front hubs have warn off, which way do I turn them to lock and how do I know they're locked?
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Dec 24, 2009 21:28
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To check if you're getting fuel: there is a plastic cap on the fuel rail before going into the injectors. After you turn the key and the system pressurizes, turn the key off and unscrew the cap. Push on the valve with a screwdriver, a small squirt of fuel should come out. Fuel filters are cheap and can be had for $10 at any parts store, even WalMart. With a wrench set you should be able to change it in about 10 minutes, its just forward of the fuel tank.
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Dec 29, 2009 19:57
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Clamwacker posted:
I finally got my 89 XJ started. Another good way tp test the spark and fuel is spray starting fluid directly into the air intake. This started mine right up after 7 years of sitting.
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Jan 2, 2010 11:00
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Five bolts, 4 hose clamps and http://www.por15.com/SPECIAL-Sealer-Metal-Ready/productinfo/S7Q/ and you're back in business.
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Jan 5, 2010 05:56
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FortifiedTumor posted:What is the towing capacity of a 89 Jeep Wagoneer? Here is the vehicle I'm looking at. It just so happens I have the Jeep Book 1989 on my coffee table (it came with my 89 XJ)! Wagoneer Limited tow package 'A' max load 2000lbs tongue 200lbs. Tow package 'B' 5000 tongue weight 750lbs. I can scan the pages if you want. Looking at this, it makes me wonder what's the difference between a Cherokee and Wagoneer, both are 4dr 4wd but the Cherokee is 3080lbs, the Wagoneer 3495lbs. giundy fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Jan 6, 2010 |
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Jan 6, 2010 07:25
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The fuel gauge in my CJ doesn't work. I'm not surprised, but thinking back a few months when I first bought the Jeep it would go to full. After tearing into the gauge and seeing its burnt up, it seems my temp gauge may be in the same boat. Both gauges work as they temp gets higher, or the fuel level lower the resistance lowers. A short will then cause the gauge to burn out, putting me in my current situation. My temp gauge goes up to hot as soon as the engine starts, which would be another sign there is a short somewhere. From here, do I replace the OEM gauge with another crappy one likely to break or go aftermarket and add another hole in the dash. The old fuel gauge will just always sit at empty.
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Jan 12, 2010 07:09
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WildFoxMedia posted:Thanks guys, those were all helpful and re-assuring suggestions. How loving big are you?
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Jan 21, 2010 05:43
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I'm not one to normally troll a thread, but these have me busting a gut.grnberet2b posted:My mom owns an FJ and totally loves it. WildFoxMedia posted:It's interesting (And incredibly helpful) that you bring this up. My girlfriend mentioned said that it may help if I lost weight And now for some content, my CJ is coming along and I decided to make some seat harness brackets. 1/8" plate sucks to bend with nothing but c-clamps and a hammer. And what's on the table:  Grade 5 hardware (gently caress Lowes for not having fine thread grd 8). Either way 3x4" plate should be fine. I would prefer to weld this on the underside but the t-case is in the way and I'm not pulling the tub off. (I would love to)  p.s. My CJ may be for sale in a week or so if anyone is interested.
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Jan 22, 2010 04:28
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Braincloud posted:It's not missing anything. The bracket that goes there is for the soft-top. Or tonneau cover. Hard tops shouldn't need any brackets to attach. Steiler Drep posted:How do you get TJ style rollbars on a YJ? They changed them to "family" style bars in 1992, where the back is above the rear seats.
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Jan 23, 2010 04:39
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Took my CJ out to play in the snow today, there's a nice 5 foot tall snow pile the plow put at the end of my driveway while clearing the cul-de-sac. Now I've got my front hubs locked in and the transfer case in 4-low. As I try to climb the rear tires lose traction and the rear end starts swinging around. Shouldn't the front tires also be spinning or does all the power just go to whichever tire has no grip? I should add I have 32x12 Super Mudders (too wide), and essentially no weight over the rear wheels (no top and a completely stripped interior except driver's seat) giundy fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Feb 10, 2010 |
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Feb 10, 2010 06:26
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Philip J Fry posted:They're usually more concerned about your mirror since it's connected to the door (a lot of new Jeep owners don't realize you need at least a rear-view and a driver's mirror). I see tons of older Toyotas, Blazers and Broncos that run doorless even though they're technically not allowed to (no lower body lip along the door jam like a Jeep) but only anal-retentive supercops will give a poo poo about them. State codes are often ambiguous at best in trying to find out what you can and can't do with your vehicle but Jeeps get around a lot of that because they are designed at-factory with removeable doors, tops and collapsable windshields. poo poo, you can drive anything without a seat belt so long as it was made before 1964.  )Tossed_Salad_Man posted:
I know you posted your Jeep before but this one would look perfect with with stamped tailgate, either with the old Jeep or Willy's logo.
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Feb 12, 2010 05:35
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Speaking of wrecked XJs, I was thinking it would be fun to build a trailer for my CJ, starting with an XJ. It would be similar to the pic below only cut off between the front and rear seats. I think open would be better, cutting it just below the window line. The hatch would be transformed to a proper tail gate. A little too crazy?
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Mar 4, 2010 06:42
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Wamsutta posted:How much, ballpark, is this going to cost me at a shop? Taking it to the shop is the problem here, you probably just need a new rubber hose or hose clamp. Search for a fuel diagram and track it down yourself, its not difficult. Take a rag under with you and run it along the fuel lines until you find a wet spot. The fuel system diagrams are available online if you search and can find what part needs replacing.
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Mar 30, 2010 04:24
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I want to punch in the face the guy who decided torx bolts would be a good idea to put on differential cover. While Dana axles have regular hex heads, the AMC 20 features 12 T40 bolts, which probably haven't been removed in 20 years. I was wondering why the differentials were always leaking after driving, I opened the front cover and discovered no gasket, just a lot of RTV sealant 
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Apr 8, 2010 05:45
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That falls into the realm of go out and break stuff, fix it after. A decent set of tires is a good place to start. Once you start learning about how to handle the vehicle start thinking about upgrades, larger tires, lifts and highline fenders, axles, lockers, SBCs etc.
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May 5, 2010 03:56
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nubie7357 posted:
If the next gen gets even bigger they're going to have to come out with a retro CJ2A that will still be 50% larger than the original. Or hopefully go back to the basics with no air, no doors, 2 seats and a full cage!
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May 8, 2010 01:02
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when compared to a Willys?
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That looks really low for being SOA, are the springs flat?
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Jun 12, 2010 17:44
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The grinding and squealing is probably just the relief valve making noise, is there anything leaking or any other side effects?
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Jun 16, 2010 23:28
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My poor CJ is getting passed around like a slut, I lent it to a friend who no longer wants to deal with leaking gas lines and bad ignition. Passing it off to my dad now who's backyard it'll stay in and not get the love it needs. Lesson learned: 2nd vehicles are an unnecessary expense and worse so when you're away from home for 7 months.
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Aug 6, 2010 02:53
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The easier option is a CJ7, should be a quick swap out once you find one in a junk yard. Both vehicles are identical in the front.
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Sep 4, 2010 23:58
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Is there anything else wrong with it? Any rust that you'll have an issue with, a decent top? If this is a 2nd car then it may not be a bad deal since it'll require work. Do you know what caused the old engine to blow? UnkleBoB posted:Yeah it's drums all around. Has a dana 30 front and 44 rear. Just wanting to up the power of the dinky drums without necessarily swapping to discs. I found a D30 and AMC20 on CL for $50 for the pair. Just shop around and you should be able to find a cheap D30 with disks up front, I wouldn't bother keeping what you have now since its an afternoon to swap it out. giundy fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Sep 6, 2010 |
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Sep 6, 2010 01:36
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I don't think I've heard of one person with a lifted Cherokee that hasn't said there is some problem with steering and it being sloppy afterwards. There's lots of info out there about steering braces and basically beefing up every part in the front to make it more bearable.
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Sep 10, 2010 02:37
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I really like this commercial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqbSNy9jU2U "It is made here, it is made well". Johnny Cash doesn't hurt sell it either. I kinda believe it too, the new suspension system is supposed to be pretty tricked out for off road, although who would put their new 40k ZJ against that?
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Sep 14, 2010 03:12
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Bojanglesworth posted:I need to rant about something so I apologize in advance. My front passenger side window wouldn't go down so I took the door panel off and saw there was no motor in there and there was a screw holding the window up. Return those parts and buy a door from a junk yard?
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Sep 20, 2010 05:39
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My Jeep decided to spew gasoline everywhere. Turns out mechanical fuel pumps aren't bullet proof, if the diphram goes it just shoots gas on the block and header. The friend who had it seems to not have been competent at anything mechanical, since simply starting it would produce constant drip. She really looks silly with the top on, either needs bigger tires or less lift.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.
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Sep 30, 2010 00:56
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TheManWithNoName posted:gently caress. The Cherokee I was going to buy had a bent shift fork or whatever, and wouldn't go out of 4WD. Dealer said it was fixed. First thing I do is test out the 4WD and it won't go back to 2WD! Why say you fixed it if it wasn't? Maybe they were hoping I would forget to test it out? Shift forks suck rear end, the vacuum lines go out all the time. Its possible the light isn't going out because that is vacuum driven too and there's a leak. If you're looking for something you'll never have to work on this may not be the Jeep, but the entire system can be replaced for $180 worst case if you install a manual poo poo line.
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Oct 1, 2010 03:26
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I've been wanting to make a CJ adventure trailer with a fold down gate and rear fenders, but just base if off a cheap trailer. I figured that would be a fun project some day.
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Oct 3, 2010 04:04
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EightBit posted:"But its all covered by the warranty And that's why I have a Hyundai, since in the past year my Jeep's needed just to stay running: New gas tank carb rebuild oil change diff fluid change fuel pump egr valve all new vacuum lines battery My Hyundai has needed: gas oil. Sometimes the Jeep is the broken down POS,
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Nov 1, 2010 03:32
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Clamwacker posted:Nah I bought it used, it's been like that since I bought it. I know there's definitely something "wrong" (as in, more wrong than normal) with it, but it's the least of my concerns at this point, I have plenty of other things to work on with that Jeep. That's how my buddy's 89 XJ is, half is empty and full is way past the scale. Its better than the undamped gauge in my CJ, which bounces around. Then again you at least you kinda guess where it is in the middle.
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Nov 7, 2010 03:52
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sw0cb posted:What should I be looking for in a CJ jeep? I want something to restore and dick around with, not for serious crawling. What motor/trasn combo held up the best in the CJ 5/7's? My 304V8 ran with one spark plug, its a solid engine, that and the 4.0 obviously. The T150 3spd was a good transmission, but all the manuals will be fine. If you're looking for something to restore the only thing you should be concerned with is a rusty frame. Depending on how far you want to take it welding wise, even that may not be a problem. Everything else can be bolted on.
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Nov 13, 2010 23:20
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I lust for red XJs with 3" lift. No tint makes it look the part Question is how tall are to doors on an XJ compared to say an XCV70 wagon?  Those wheels hurt my brain on both, but the body shape and lifts are just right.
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Dec 21, 2010 08:35
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Veeb0rg posted:, what was chrysler thinking. "The engineer said that would never break". or If it looks like its made to be easily repaired, people would probably thing its made to break, or cheap. I would like it if my car were built like the CJ, nothing takes more than 10 minutes to figure out how to get it off. In actual removal time however thats like 5 hours after dealing with rust.
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Dec 23, 2010 00:51
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It would be freaking awesome, but probably a little costly these days depending how original you want to keep it. Expect to go no more than 40mph and have horrible on road characteristics. Basically it means when you drive it, that's what your doing, not drinking or talking on the phone, keeping the thing on the road. Its actually fun to do, for weekend toy sort of deal.
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Mar 25, 2011 07:18
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ornery owl posted:My rear leafs are pretty flat looking, but I don't really know anyone with new ones to compare them to. Should they be curved on an XJ? Maybe I'll throw an a Close to flat when loaded, here's a stock set picture:  I wouldn't be too worried until they get like my buddy's YJ with inverted springs. BoostCreep posted:I'm glad I took the Jeep because I was able to park where most people wouldn't dare. I hear the Prius (Yaris/Echo?) is often cited for its off-road capabilities also.
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Jul 20, 2011 05:20
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Been a while since I posted in the Jeep thread since selling my 79 CJ, but I put my money down on a 2014 today. I got a base sport with connectivity group in Anvil, a holdover color from the Rubi X. I followed the pricing guide on Wrangler Forum to get 1% under invoice, with getting the base I can go on Craig's list and find some Rubi take offs for less than the upgrade cost. Its crazy to think this one has more power than my old 304 and twice as many gears. Now for a long six week wait for it to be delivered (or longer), but still in the first order block. Can't wait for LED lit cup holders (yeah I know they're gay).
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Jun 17, 2013 03:45
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