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TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




My gf got me this for my birthday:



Husky 151 piece ratchet set. Has 3/8 & 1/2" ratchets, along with almost every size I can think of. Coming from the only ratchet I own being a lovely jobmate 3/8" one that I broke, I'm excited :D Lifetime warrenty on all of it, no questions asked. Apparently its Home Depot's brand.

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TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Sockington posted:

I'm looking to buy a small hand drill for work. I want a half decent one since I do lots of work in areas where using a battery powered drill would require a special permit and wearing a gas monitor at all times. :downs:

Hazardous locations :allears:

Heh we put a GFI on the outside of our panel and some dumfuck decided to run an extension cord into the CL1 DIV1 area and got a large fine. :psyduck:

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




CFM ratings piss me off. ACFM, ICFM, or SCFM drat it.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




I'm looking at this for a jack. Main points being it looks like I can get to the front crossmember on the miata without needing to drive up on blocks of wood. Thoughts? Canada means no HF... I live in a border town but there's no HF within 200 miles.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...k.jsp?locale=en

E: hmm, it appears to be the exact same as this jack, from HF:

http://www.harborfreight.com/low-profilehigh-lift-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-2-ton-heavy-duty-68050.html

Which, while it's on sale at HF right now is normally $170 compared to 175$ at crappy tire.

TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Jan 26, 2013

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Alright, so I'm in the market for a cordless impact wrench. I don't have any other cordless tools at this point, so I'm not limited to a specific brand, though I'd like it if the brand had a good reputation across a variety of cordless stuff.

I'm open to drill/driver combos, as I don't actually own a drill. Primary use will be wheels/random stuck bolts that I can get the driver on to. I'm in Canada, but I live close enough to the border to go pick stuff up. No harbor freight nearby though unfortunately.

What should I be looking at?

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Jared592 posted:

I've heard good things about the Dewalt high-torque 1/2"... The one with the retention ring.

I will take a look - those don't seem to be ridiculously priced. Whats the practical difference between the retention ring and the detent pin?


Brain Issues posted:

Are you looking for a 3/8" or 1/2" impact?

I don't really have a preference - the majority of the stuff I've been looking at is 1/2", but that's just because it's what I've seen.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Am I wrong in thinking that this would probably be fine for what I want?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...h.jsp?locale=en

I know it's not likely to be as high quality as a DeWALT one, but for 90$ & 220 ft-lbs can I really go wrong? NiCad battery instead of a lithium ion one, but the majority of use is likely just swapping wheels.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




blindjoe posted:

Also Canadian tire branded stuff is junk, but if you aren't expecting it to have any torque, it will be fine.

I have a milwaukee impact driver I use for wheels. I break the nuts with the breaker bar, zip off with impact driver, torque on with torque wrench.

This is kinda what I expected. I can grab a 350ft-lbs Milwaukee impact with lithium ion battery and charger for like $350.

I always torque the nuts with a torque wrench, just hoping to be able to break them with the impact as well, rather than have to use the breaker bar. Basically I am lazy. Will probably pick up a Milwaukee one - I've used a friends before and it was very nice.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Bajaha posted:

For any Canuk that needs a jack, just picked this one up today:


http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/michelin-2-ton-low-profile-high-lift-service-jack-0091052p.html#.UplvAcSIDPp

It's on sale for $150(50% off $300 usual price) right now, looks and feels pretty solid, haven't used it yet. Looked around online and it seems like it was a decent price.


Crustashio posted:

Oh poo poo I've really been wanting one of these so I don't have to use ramps with my M3. I assume it weighs about a million pounds?

A friend has one of these, and it's on my Christmas list. I've used it, very easy to move around. Heavy as all gently caress, but I *think* it can get to the front subframe lifting point on a miata with no need for ramps.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




What type of lube should I be using with drill bits? I burned one out over the weekend, and would like to not do that again.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




For any :canada: people, this jack is on sale for $179 at Canadian tire:



http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/michelin-2-ton-low-profile-high-lift-service-jack-0091052p.html#.U1Js7l29LCQ

32" length, 2-3/4" min height, 24" lift, weight: a million loving pounds.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




I will never buy a tool there unless it is on sale. A lot of their wrenches and things routinely go on sale for 60%+ off. I got a decent bench vice there just last month for 80% off plus another 10% because the box was a bit banged up.

Also it's a horrible place.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




slidebite posted:

This is true. It wouldn't even be big bucks for a small motor on a lathe.

A phase converter is probably a less expensive option than a VFD, and you don't need to worry about the motor on the lathe not liking a VFD generated third phase. Which a lot of motors don't like. Plus unless you want to connect directly to the motor (I don't know old lathes all that well - is there anything other than the on/off switch for electricals?) you really don't want to use a VFD. Even if it's just the motor a VFD typically shouldn't have a contractor between it and the motor. Also if there are multiple loads, the VFD isn't a good idea.

VFD's also don't produce a true sinusoidal wave. Phase converters do a better job.

VFD's are pretty loving cool however, and everyone should play with them if they get a chance.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Brigdh posted:

Motive pressure bleeder (or DIY equivalent)

Thirding this, bleeding brakes is a joke now.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Spring compressor, shming compressor.



not me, nor do I advocate doing this.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




0toShifty posted:

Okay, I need an air compressor, but my situation is kind of weird.

I'm at high altitude - like REALLY high - 9,200ft. The ambient atmospheric pressure is only 10.4psi here.

I really just need it to inflate tires and to run my leakdown tester.

I'd like to be able to run my grinder and cutoff wheel, but these things probably take a shitload of air. I also have an air impact wrench, but that's not totally necessary because I also have a lithium one that I end up using most of the time anyway, even with access to air.

So something small would probably do the job - but will it overheat terribly because of the altitude?

The compressor will still put out whatever gauge pressure it says it will, but the capacity of the compressor will be reduced because of the reduced atmospheric pressure - essentially you're still sucking in the same amount of cubic feet per minute, but compressors are rated as if each cubic foot is at standard atmospheric conditions. You can convert from "SCFM" to "ACFM" using the following formula:

ACFM = SCFM [Pstd / (Pact - Psat Φ)](Tact / Tstd)

where

ACFM = Actual Cubic Feet per Minute

SCFM = Standard Cubic Feet per Minute

Pstd = standard absolute air pressure (psia)

Pact = absolute pressure at the actual level (psia)

Psat = saturation pressure at the actual temperature (psi)

Φ = Actual relative humidity

Tact = Actual ambient air temperature (oR)

Tstd = Standard temperature (oR)

SCFM is typically used as 14.5 psia, 68° F with 0% RH.

Formula copy/pasted from https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/scfm-acfm-icfm-d_1012.html

Long story short - the duty cycle on the compressor will be higher to achieve the same airflow rate - you need to de-rate the compressor to ensure you stay within the specified duty cycle.

If you're looking at a compressor with something like an aftercooler, it won't cool nearly as well due to the reduced air density.

The other area to consider is the electric motor. Typically motor manufacturers will de-rate the motor based on altitude, as the cooling fans on the motor are again designed around standard conditions - though you're usually fine up to ~5000ft (which you're above). I don't know where you'll need to go to get something like that on a smaller compressor, I'm typically dealing with a supplier and I'll just spec out the altitude and what flowrate I need in SCFM and let them size the compressor/motor combo for me.

TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 18:53 on May 25, 2018

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Put in a woodstove? Or get a forced air propane heater. You can leave the propane heater outside and use some insulated hose to duct inside, through a doorway cracked open or the garage door open along the bottom. Or remove a window pane and replace with plywood + cutout for the heat inlet.

Insulating will really help though.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




I got a new toolbox for christmas, and am looking for organizers - what do you guys use?

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




slidebite posted:

It's not PVC, it's sched 40 ABS but yeah, I think I'll just fire up that miter saw (maybe even softer?) I might try my oscillating cutter just to see how it works though.

Thanks for helping someone who apparently has borderline alzheimers. :v:

Also if you're gluing it together, you don't need to worry about how straight your cut is, it'll go in and set just fine even if it's off. And hold at twice the rated pressure... Less so if you're just using ferncos.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




This is the best tool for up to 2" SCH80 PVC though. They're a dream to use.



https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Plumbing-Installation/Copper-and-PVC-Cutters/2470-20

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Invalido posted:

An old shop compressor has come under my care. It seems to work fine right now, but it's doubtful that it's seen any maintenance since the 90's or so. It's a Tamrock FX of some kind, a screw compressor powered by a three phase motor. It pushes a lot of air in relative silence, so I'd like to keep it running if possible. There seems to be at least some parts available from an iffy-looking site (oil separator, inlet air filter and oil filter. The drive belts look like a pair of normal v-belts that could probably be sourced wherever). The question is what type of oil to put in it. The best matching manual I've dug up online isn't super clear to me. It's also translated from Finnish:





Specialty screw compressor oil is hard to find, and expensive. Most of what is available is "food grade" which I don't need or want. An oil change with that stuff is likely to be at least $200 or so if I can even buy it.
A regular hydraulic oil that fulfils either ISO VG 32 or 46 is readily available and an oil change would be like $30. The thing is that I read somewhere that these oils contain a zinc additive that could be a Bad Thing somehow. I don't want a glogged oil separator or worse. I'm ambivalent but leaning towards ISO VG 46 since heavy machinery guys mainly seem to use 32 when it's really cold which won't be an issue.

If you happen to know I'm being dumb and making a mistake please tell me so. If I'm overthinking this I'd like to hear that as well. I don't know much about lubrication and nothing at all about screw compressors.

My experience with screw compressors (pneumatic supply for well pumps, oxygen generators, etc.) says use exactly what they specify and nothing else. Gardner Denver tends to be pretty responsive about old stuff - I'd send them an email to figure out what the exact spec is, take it to an industrial supply store, and go from there.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




I have the 26" US General as well, and it's amazing. Had my heart set on the 44", turns out I definitely didn't need the 44 with the tools I have. The quality of the 26 is the same as the 44, so if you don't need the tool space there's not much reason to get the 44.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




meatpimp posted:

drat. I was just going to post here that I have that exact tool, new in box bare tool, that I bought and want to sell to someone here that can use it. :(

On that note, is anyone looking for a 1/2" Milwaukee M18 Fuel Impact Wrench with hog ring anvil? No battery or charger, just bare tool.

I bought it because I was mad at the Passat. I have one another one and I scratched it up with it hammering on the rear brake carriers with a few extensions. I like clean and shiny tools, so I was discouraged at loving my first one up, so I bought another. After a bit, I wasn't mad at the scratched tool anymore. Never taken the new one out of the box. :{

Is it the high torque one? How much are you looking for, and willing to ship to Canada? I'm debating between the high torque and mid torque, mainly for the size difference.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




I have the mid-torque Milwaukee 1/2" impact, and it's fantastic. At 600ft-lbs it hasn't had an issue with axle nuts or anything else I've used it for. It's tiny compared to the giant one, but so nice and easy to use. I may have justified the big combo pack cause I couldn't find the combo with the charger anywhere nearby, so now I have a sawzal, impact driver, drill, circular saw, and work light. All of which have come in handy, why on earth did I wait this long to pick up good battery powered tools???

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




tangy yet delightful posted:

Which one is this? I'm making a list of things to keep an eye out for holiday/black friday sales. Looks like maybe this one - M18 FUEL™ 1/2" High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring Kit?

It's this one:

Frank Dillinger posted:

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2861-20

This is the midtorque. The one you linked is an older version of the bigger high torque version

And the kit I got is this one:

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Combo-Kits/5-or-More-Piece-Kits/2997-27

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




mobby_6kl posted:

Wait what's that??

Probably an induction heat tool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFh8Pci5gpc

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




wesleywillis posted:

This one:

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2767-20

If it doesn't bust axle nuts and suspension poo poo, then you need a torch.
Make sure to get some appropriate sockets.

Gonna go against the grain here and recommend the mid-torque version of this. It's lighter, smaller, easier to manouver in tight spaces, and yet 600ft-lbs, which has managed everything I've thrown at it (I'm in the salt belt, and axle nuts / suspension stuff hasn't been an issue).

If you've already got an m12 stubby it might make more sense to grab the giant one, but the big one is gigantic and heavy.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




StormDrain posted:

Always. You could probably use another ratchet too that way you can have two loaded up.

I got two ratchets as gifts when I needed to replace one. I never knew I needed two identical ratchets, but man it's wonderful.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




IOwnCalculus posted:

I wouldn't buy a gasoline-powered anything for yardwork at this point and I'd say that's probably true for most people now, whether they want to admit it or not. There's still edge cases where gasoline does better, and cases where gasoline costs much less than the equivalent electric, but those are shrinking.

You can pry my gas backpack blower from my hands when I can get ~6 hours out of two batteries. My cleanup generally involves a few 6ish hour days of leafblowing in the fall, if I could get 3 hours on a charge and just need one spare battery that's about the point I'd make the switch. When my gas blower dies. It's been nothing but reliable.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




StormDrain posted:

For the Galaxie I use jackstands on the frame. My fleet are all long cars so when I do finally get the quickjacks on my wishlist it'll be the biggest ones available, the 7000s. That'll cover the Sierra, Binder and Galaxie and probably sneak under whatever SUV I end up with for my wife. And if not that's a twice a year adventure anyway.

If I had a small or regular size car that I was working in with regularity I'd probably get the size for the small vehicle instead, since all the old iron and Sierra are body on frame cars that are less picky about jacking points and jackstand placement. I can quickly get the front and rear up in the air and slide a stand under it. The biggest benefit to the quickjacks for me will be using them with the car parked tight on one side of the garage where I can't get the floor jack in place. As it is now I just center the car in my two car garage or off center a bit for whatever workspace I need.

Now if I had a single car garage, I'd have gotten them already. Working on the international in the single car garage was a testament to my devotion.

FWIW, the 5000 and 7000 have the same range of lifting point spans. The difference is the 5000 is lower in it's collapsed form by like 1/2". If you don't need more than 5000lbs the additional few inches of lift is a benefit.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Holy poo poo I picked up a set of quickjack 5000TL's, and uhh why the gently caress did I wait this long? Because I'm eventually going to make the garage bigger and get a lift, but that's more years away than I want to admit.



Great lift height, and it fixes what I find to be the most annoying part of working on cars - getting them into the air. I have a low profile extended reach jack and still can't get to the center jack point on the miata without driving onto ramps. And then doing the lift the back, lift the front, okay now the back again, now the front again dance to get it safely into the air. Instead, press button, car go up. Press button, car go down.

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TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




CarForumPoster posted:

TY for posting, I think you talked me into one. My 15yo aluminum HF racing jack is starting to leak just as you posted this. Plus I've definitely used a transmission jack to move heavy stuff up to table height so this seems like an even BETTER way to do that.

Well, it won't lift things to table height, but it is fantastic regardless. I've done a bunch of poo poo I've been putting off because it's so much easier to get the car in the air.

I'm storing them underneath the car, just drive over em and pull into position.

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