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si posted:http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=221131-28309-2317G We have two Ingersoll Rand impacts. One is rather old and the other is brand new. The old one gets constant use and the new one wanders around for mobile use. They're both absolutely bulletproof and I can't really imagine working on a car without one.
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Apr 19, 2009 03:37
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Money Walrus posted:Tool Thread, I have a question. I have an engine rebuild to do this summer on my trusty Volvo, and I want to be able to leave my car on jackstands for a month or so. The front of my house has a concrete driveway, but it's New Orleans summer and that means hot and sunny. Wood or steel is fine, but make sure they're big. Quite big, and make absolutely sure they're level and not tippy or anything.
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May 17, 2009 18:05
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You don't want a butane iron for doing anything small. Pick up this; http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-Soldering-Hobbyist-Yourselfer/dp/B000AS28UC Or, if that'll break the bank, just go to a Frys/Radio Shack/etc and pick up a 25-40 watt iron, which will probably be just fine.
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May 23, 2009 11:00
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:Weller soldering irons are awesome but they can be a bit pricey, although $40 some dollars for that unit probably isn't bad. We used to use the Weller WTCPT at Circuit City for car audio installs and those things are rock solid albeit lacking on features. Then again, what features would you need? I liked em so much I picked up two of them from the store when we shut down. I also have a Blue Point butane soldering iron and a Matco one. The Matco is garbage and was a waste of over $100 Just about the best money I've ever spent was on my Weller WES51. It gets used on a pretty regular basis.
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May 23, 2009 22:25
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oxbrain posted:If you can afford the extra, this would actually not stall on everything. But, the problem with a better knockoff Sawzall is that a real one is about $85. 
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Jun 17, 2009 23:44
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I can't tell you how many times I've reshaped a wrench and accidentally tapped the oxygen  three times.
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Jul 4, 2009 19:48
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Pissingintowind posted:Can anyone recommend some good "bang for the buck" torque wrenches? Proto. You should be able to find a bunch on eBay.
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Jul 21, 2009 00:54
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Anybody have recommendations for a 6" DA sander? I'm going to be stripping down my Beetle this winter/next summer and I'm going to take it down to bare metal. Air or electric, either is fine. I've got 200 gallons of air sitting in the garage so it's not like one is better than the other. I'd be perfectly happy spending up to $170ish, because this won't be the last time it's used. Nearer to $100 would be nice, though. e: evidently air sanders are lighter and have more control. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Sep 5, 2009 |
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Sep 5, 2009 02:13
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CatBus posted:If you're going down to metal, an 8" geared orbital sander works WAY better than a DA, though you may wish to use a random orbit sander to finish the job. The 8" sandpaper is quite a bit more costly, but it's worth it. Should I go up to 8" when I'm sanding a car that's nothing but big huge curves? There are almost zero flat spots on the whole car. I'm pretty resigned to having to either blast the fenders or just sand them by hand. e: 73 Super Beetle
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Sep 6, 2009 01:22
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I think I will end up grabbing the orbital, and soda blast the fenders and other hilariously curvy poo poo. I've been wanting to get into soda blasting for a long while. It'd be amazingly helpful for about 300 different things. Carbs, stickers, wheels, suspension parts, smaller panels and goofy gaps like my rain rails and such, etc, etc, etc. It's almost too good to be true.
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Sep 8, 2009 00:34
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How have you managed to break so many craftsman ratchets? Granted, I don't think I've even had my hands on any craftsman ratchets made in the last 7-10 years, but has the quality really gone downhill that badly? I think we have 7 or so older ratchets that are still doing pretty damned good for their age. We're generally pretty hard on tools at home and at work, and I've only ever broken one ratchet before, and that was while hanging off of it underneath a car on a lift and sorta reverse-jump/hanging off it. It was some horrible chinese Mac knockoff, too.
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Oct 25, 2009 21:27
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Man, your Sears is run by jerks  . I've never been even slightly questioned about replacing stuff, and I do things like bring in wrenches that have been bent with a torch and screwdrivers that've been ground down 30 times. I know people go to garage sales occasionally and buy the worst looking craftsman tools for 10c apiece and sears tends to replace those too.e: VVV 30 year old dryer motors make fantastic stationary wire wheels. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Oct 26, 2009 |
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Oct 25, 2009 21:42
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CornHolio posted:Had to borrow my dad's drill. Oh kickass. What make is it? We have a very similar old rear end drill that is currently 4 generations old in my family. The thing is absolutely brutal. I personally have torn the hell out of my wrist and smashed fingers from operating it, and my older brother, dad and grandfather have done such things about 400 some times more than me. I've never encountered another drill with so much goddamned torque before. If you get a bit that catches in metal, it will lift your rear end right off the motherfucking ground and slam your hands/face onto whatever you're working on if you're holding on too hard.
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Nov 6, 2009 01:55
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JoshGuitar posted:I think it's the brittleness of PVC, yeah. The bonus with blackpipe is you can pretty easily look around and get deals on it.
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Dec 11, 2009 02:28
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Uthor posted:Is there an easy way of checking which bulb is burned out in a string of lights? Already been answered, but are they really old lights? I don't think I've seen 2 wire light strands in about 10 years. They're all 3 wire strands I've seen now so they don't have that particular irritating one dead bulb problem.
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Dec 11, 2009 07:40
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Delivery McGee posted:Yeah, but you can't light a smoke off of it. When I got my exhaust replaced, I watched the mechanic, and he lit a cigarette with the gas axe while he was taking off the old muffler. Can't get much more If you've got an oxy/acetylene torch, tapping the oxygen at a friends cigarette is all kinds of fun. It makes it disappear amusingly quickly. (warning, might catch on fire, I don't suggest doing it if they've got it by their face unless you don't like them much)
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Dec 13, 2009 08:05
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than that.
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Chauncey posted:My experience with a drill doctor was it worked amazing until about the 12th try and something hosed up and it ruins drills now instead of sharpening them. We've got one of those and I adore it. It takes a bit of practice to get it right but it does a really really good job. e: VVV On a related note to this, if you do want or need more accuracy, Proto click-style torque wrenches are excellent for the price. Expect to pay over $100, and don't for the love of god buy the craftsman click style ones. They break nearly immediately. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Jan 22, 2010 |
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Jan 22, 2010 21:22
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Man makes hammers, does good job.  http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48306 Video of how he's fitting the heads to the handles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fvdRRUgqw8 He is also making some impressive punches. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53442 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoEvPhb8lWI
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Feb 10, 2010 19:21
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Yeah.. I can't really see a whole lot of uses for the hammer except for some really fine work and drooling over it. The punches however, look absolutely wonderful and if they're under $100 I'm going to have to consider it.
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Feb 10, 2010 19:30
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RealKyleH posted:I could see that intention but what I'm saying is why is a punch meant to go inside a .125 hole, so freaking close to .125? Why isn't it .120 or less? I think the important point is that they're not exactly for brute work on cars and general "disassembly for repair" work. Guns would be a big one, as well as doing machine work like he's doing to build them. Either way they're bound to be ridiculously expensive, and they're on a tool form full of people who collect tools. You can't really expect sanity.
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Feb 11, 2010 01:20
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:What do you guys use to heat your garages? I am trying to look for some kind of 120V heater that will be good for a 2 car garage, but I'm not having much luck finding anything. Lowes has a lot of space heaters that have a description as vague as "This will heat a room* *fine print results may vary" Kerosene forced air/turbine heater/torpedo heater attached to a cheap thermostat. It's an awesome setup. You can have a warm garage in about 10 minutes flat. If you run diesel instead of kerosene, it barely smells and it's marginally cheaper to run (kerosene is dumb, I don't know why it even exists anymore). Walk out into the garage, spin the thermostat to 60 and by the time you've got some decent music on and the tools out, you can take off the coat and work comfortably. They are really loud, but once you're up to temp, it's not on very often. I'm strongly considering making an outdoor woodburning furnace out of some oil drums and using a little 1.2hp motor to run a small fan. A 55 gallon drum as a burn box exhausting into a smaller drum above and then out a stack with a 55 around the top drum as a heat box would work beautifully. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Dec 13, 2010 |
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Dec 13, 2010 03:24
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It won't make you die immediately, and it's probably wise to leave the door cracked.(e: the big door) Spraying around a bunch of flammable stuff is also unwise. It terms of combustion it's probably not doing you any good, but after it's caught up it's not on for very long, and propane burns rather clean. e: here, I made a terrible drawing of what I want to build.  It could go either way, although I'd think that having it exhaust into a small drum would be wise and heat the 55 more effectively. To be honest, it's mostly so I have something to do with my little 1.2hp clinton engine. Then I just need about 20 more projects for all the other small engines sitting around at my parent's house. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Dec 13, 2010 |
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Dec 13, 2010 03:35
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Who's used the dale adams bone creeper? I've always used either nothing, or the standard 6 wheel creepers with the little 1 1/2" wheels that suck. My garage floor is cracked and not great, and the driveway is much worse. I usually end up with the nothing option because it's easier to just wear a junk shirt and a pair of bibs than to get all frustrated with a standard lovely creeper. But this thing really tempts me http://www.amazon.com/Dale-Adams-Enterprises-6031-Mechanics/dp/B000051XJ1/ref=pd_sim_hi_2
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Jan 28, 2013 05:06
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Luminous Cow posted:I just got done cleaning a bunch of poo poo out of the garage, which means it's time to get some proper tools so I can do some of my own maintenance. I am in desperate need of a floor jack and some jack stands. What brands should I be looking at? What brands should I avoid? I need tools that are going to last me a long time through fairly infrequent use (ie every 3000 miles for oil, when my brake pads go to poo poo, etc). When it comes to jacks (especially when you need good lift height), don't discount old used stuff.  We picked up that big Viking 5 ton for $15, gave it a $40 rebuild and it's awesome. The 2 ton behind it is my dad's from some time in the 70's. We've got a gigantic long frame Weaver 5 ton in the barn, too. I think that one was $20. Old jacks are cheap, and have a LOT of lift height. Here's a size reference for the big Viking jack.  As for stands, get stands that are bigger than you need. The lowest height on a 3 or 4 ton jackstand isn't very high at all, and they're stronger, bigger and more stable. You want this design:  and not the terrible pin-style stands. Pick up some jackstand pads/adapters/covers if you can find them as well. Some cars don't do well with the steep angle and you'll have the stand sitting on floorpan instead of jack points. 
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Feb 7, 2013 |
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Feb 7, 2013 01:31
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Epoxy into the messed up hole, let it dry and drill it out to the point where the threads of the screw can re-bite works for me. A small drill press and a drill press vice help a lot so the bit doesn't just wander. Or stick one of those really big pieces of heat shrink tubing around the whole thing. e: I didn't see the broken off piece, I thought it just pulled the screw out of the bottom. Glue that piece back and and then epoxy/drill, or use a longer screw and a washer that grabs more of the case. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Feb 7, 2013 |
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Feb 7, 2013 01:41
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slidebite posted:I could, but it is very small and worry about the strength due to the centrifugal force. Not a crazy idea though. There are probably easier options than heat shrink, but if you go that route, Insultab HS-105 is probably the standard very big line of 2:1 heatshrink. Gets up to something like 4". Sort of hard to find in short lengths, though. The assorted kits usually only go up to 1" or 3/4"
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Feb 7, 2013 02:13
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Moxie Omen posted:I need to splurge on improving my socket collection. Just want to get some standard 6 point sets that aren't total poo poo. Brand opinions? I'm looking at some SK stuff right now. If you ask 10 people you'll get 11 different answers. Sockets are pretty universally pretty great from just about everybody. I've got a ton of Craftsman, which I'm happy with. I've got a set of SK's that live in the car which are very nice, but honestly not any better than the cheaper Craftsman. "Nice" sockets just look prettier, virtually any socket that isn't utter garbage has the same general tolerances and function the same. I use them in the impact for when I need an impact size I don't have, or when I need a standard depth socket for the impact, and I've never cracked one that way. I've never managed to accidentally kill a Craftsman socket. They occasionally die from hammering them onto very heated fasteners which usually ruins them, and then I just go exchange it for a new socket. I love the Craftsman stuff because I can whoop the gently caress out of it. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Feb 25, 2013 |
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Feb 25, 2013 22:40
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General_Failure posted:There are sockets with printed labels? I have never ever seen one of those. usually they are stamped into them. Impact on regular sockets can crack them/make them explode. I've only ever seen it happen a few times personally. I still use regular sockets with the impact occasionally.
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Feb 26, 2013 05:25
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Oh, yeah I zoned out when I read that. I do that all the time, all my 1/2" 6 point deepwells are impact sockets instead of regular sockets. I guess the extra thickness could make recessed fasteners hard to get to.
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Feb 26, 2013 05:35
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Strawberry posted:Any recommendations for waste fluid storage? When I did all my fluid changes at my parents house I never had to worry about recycling anything. My dad would take all my used oil/atf/diff lube and throw it in his chainsaw as bar and chain oil. I found a 3 gallon jug on Amazon, but I'd like something a little bigger, maybe with a built in funnel. I drive a Dodge Ram so transport is a non issue. Big drums are a pain in the rear end, the best system I've ever come up with is to just use oil buckets (the 5 or 6.5 gallon buckets with pour spouts that hydraulic oil/other bulk oil comes in) and just fill one or two up. Drums are really, really heavy. They work best if you can get buckets that never had the lid removed, just the pull up spout used. Fill it with a funnel instead of opening the big lid and they don't leak.
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Mar 4, 2013 11:37
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That Harbor Freight reel is pretty decent and ridiculously cheap compared with most. A reel off the ceiling is awesome.
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Mar 14, 2013 22:05
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revmoo posted:When I learned how to weld auto-darkening hoods did not exist. I've never used one, are they as amazing as they sound? They're not astounding or anything (best for stick welding, to be honest), but they're pretty fabulous all around. I certainly don't like welding with a passive hood anymore unless I'm in the field. Certainly worth picking up one of the cheap ones from Harbor Freight or something.
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Apr 10, 2013 22:56
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General_Failure posted:Do you use them in conjunction with safety glasses? I use safety glasses and get pissed off at how poorly they work. When I was grinding last week a bit of drat hot metal still managed to get in under and into my eye. Made a nice sizzle. Stung like a bitch but I could still sort of see so it was all good this time. It's something I'd rather not happen at all. This is just the truth of safety glasses. It doesn't mean you shouldn't wear them, but they're generally sort of garbage. I grind with a faceshield or an autodark welding helmet in grind mode because the bounce isn't as bad. Glasses are fine when you're working in-position, but when does that ever happen?
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Jun 23, 2013 04:28
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Uthor posted:Can you just leave tool batteries on the charger for, probably, months without damage? Cause, if so, I'd consider splurging a little on a decent cordless. Modern lithium battieries and a name brand tool, yeah sure. Chargers are much smarter these days.
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Jul 22, 2013 23:26
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kastein posted:I may be alone on this one but god I hate weatherpacks. You're pretty much the first person who has ever said they hate weatherpacks. I love the drat things. They're hard to pull apart if they don't get dielectric, though. I suppose they're still infuriating, but I like them more than the other million variants of weatherproof plugs.
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Aug 2, 2013 19:59
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I've had the same pair of Firehose cooldry pants for over a year now, and they've survived my job. Wear them every day and I build trails for a living which is really hard on clothing. Plus I do all the shop work (welding/fab, all the equipment repair and maintenance, etc) for our division. Still haven't killed the first pair. Just bought a second pair, too. Duluth pants rule. https://www.duluthtrading.com/store/product/mens-cooldry-fire-hose-summer-work-pants-95115.aspx Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Aug 24, 2013 |
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Aug 24, 2013 03:32
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I did a thing... I got it for $400, I'm torn between keeping it and selling it to finance a new Everlast machine. What does the collective think? If I keep it I have to put a larger breaker in, it's max draw is like 74 amps or something. A newer machine is around 40 something amps for an inverter based machine. This one has a weldcraft wp-20 torch and a Bernard liquid cooler system. Keep it, they're great machines, and you've got a good cooler with it. Old transformers are wonderful and repairable by your average mechanically inclined person. Not even slightly so with inverters. It's worth running it hard and seeing where your breaker pops. I've got a Miller 330 abp that will happily draw 100 amps and I'm running it on a 50a breaker. It's not everyday you're going to run a TIG hard unless you're doing some crazy shafting rebuilds or something.
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Aug 25, 2013 00:00
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Your options are to make one or scrounge around on craigslist some more. It's a pretty lightweight table and any really major work would destroy it. I certainly wouldn't want to be hammering on a vice attached to it. That said, workbenches are usually pricey and that's not a dreadful price for a decent bench.
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Oct 31, 2013 00:00
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6013 is a good rod. You'll be able to run 7014 and 7018 AC as well which are also both great rods. Lots of inverter welders can't run 6010 or 6011 rods, which is a shame but it's not the end of the world. You'll need to upgrade someday if you want to learn those, which are whip and pause rods. Everything else mentioned are just plain old drag rods (unless you're welding verticals). 7014 would work fairly well with exhaust work too.
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Nov 25, 2013 04:12
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thegasman2000 posted:Any recommendations for gloves? I am doing a lot of auto and welding work and the stupid latex ones i am using shred when I even look at an awkward to remove bolt. Big bulky ones get on my tits so I don't wear them and end up with hands like a hookers underpants, soiled and horrible. So what do you all wear? These completely own. http://www.amazon.com/G-Tek-MaxiFlex-34-874-Seamless-Gloves/dp/B000QOF2WG They come in other dip versions, but they're some kind of foam dip instead of the not-breathable nitrile type. I wear them daily but only go through about 1 pair every month and a half. They make cutproof and lighter weight versions too.
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Dec 2, 2013 01:15
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