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InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

Gingerbread House Music posted:

The only worthwhile use i've ever found for WD40 is installing motorcycle grips.
It's really good for cleaning things like tar spots and tape residue off.

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InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Isn't Fo3 down under?

It's entirely possible some markets get stuff made elsewhere that's not up to the standard others get.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Scott Summers is annoying, store him out the way thusly.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
I think it's Loctite 641 if you want to disassemble it again relatively simply, 638 as the "high strength" option. There's 603, which IIRC is thinner (good for relatively tight fits) and better for setting if things are a bit oily. Probably a couple of others, too.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
As with all paint cans, a layer of cling film over the can before putting the lid on can help a lot with getting it off.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
You should be able to paint over the POR-15 to protect it from UV.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Vehicle Wiring Products is probably a good place to start.

Multimeters, not sure what the latest stuff is, but I use a UNI-T one that I think has an rpm function built into it.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
No idea, UK and europe don't seem to get it either.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

Colostomy Bag posted:

Any opinions on brake bleeder tools?
Air powered vacuum type is my preference.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Simple bottle jacks are often good for stuff like pickups, plus are more compact than trolley jacks.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Get some action while aiding traction?

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

wesleywillis posted:

Ask for a snatch block while you're at it.

Once went in to a liquor store looking for whiskey. Asked a lady "Excuse me, you you have Black Bush"?

She was all :blush: Then I stammered out "whiskey"!!

She had black hair.
I wanted a copy of The Best Little Whorehouse In Texas.

The girl working for my local HMV was very, very clearly unaware that it was a whimsical musical.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
I like my Stanley Fatmax pliers with the compound joint mechanism for more leverage - but oddly, it seems they're not sold in the USA?

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
I read a quote from someone on why they used Pelican cases years ago, and it was something like "we were on the Paris-Dakar and barrel-rolled down a dune, so the case had the truck land on it a couple of times before it got loose and bounced off down the hill, at which point a support truck came over the crest at full send and landed square on it and anyway these are the pictures I took with the cameras in that case".

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Ok, I really like this design, quick-change hydraulic puller system:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBc1Ba-0o9E

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

IOwnCalculus posted:

So here's one. How to safely move a vehicle with no front suspension on it? I have a whole new front suspension coming for my C10 but I might need to pull it out of the garage before it gets here so that I can get the garage door replaced.

Jackstands on dollies?
Chassis dolly:



Not sure where to get them in the US. It's exactly the kind of thing I'd expect Harbor Freight to sell, but seems not? They're about £100ish each here.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
I assume anything based on combustion requires the same oxygen my body does, and should not compete with it for such in an enclosed space.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

slidebite posted:

Just wanted to give a plug here for Asimeto measuring products, or at least their standard verniers.

I've always been a Mitutoyo guy since I started my career 27 years ago. I had the same set of 8" verniers I've used for, no joke, 22+ years, but I misplaced at an end user call this summer but could never track down exactly where... so eventually had to bite the bullet and order a set.

I was going to buy another Mitutoyo or maybe try a Starrett, but on a whim bought a set of Asimeto 8" thumblock. Cost was around 60%+ of Mitutoyo, but so far pleasantly surprised especially for the $$. Come with a calibration certificate that I need for iso and they seem to be very consistent regardless of where I measure on the jaws when I tested measuring shims.

Compare favorably to the Mitutoyos I've always previously used and have no problem recommending them. Are they better than Mitutoyo? I don't know if I would go that far but I would say they are as good for my used in this particular style at least.


Thank you for using the term vernier to refer to something that's actually a loving vernier. Not that I've used one for years now, you just get out the habit when everything is digital by default.

Colostomy Bag posted:

Welp, reached sort of a new low with a HF hand tool.

Was using a HF dead blow and noticed hey, the 'Pittsburgh Pro' sticker/sku is peeling off. So what the hell, yank the drat sticker off. Huh, yanking it off pulled the plug out where they fill the thing up with buckshot. One can only laugh.
What were you expecting inside? I think most dead blows are shot aren't they?

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

Uthor posted:

I'm pretty sure they were expecting the insides to stay inside.
Well, I've managed to split them open before myself, so I just assumed that the insides becoming outsides wasn't uncommon.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Yeah, to be honest, I've just gotten lazy. Similar to how I get out of practice holding a mic properly, really.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
I could do with getting a new Dremel-type tool, but I can't really bring myself to spend Dremel money, the Sealey E5188 looks reasonable, and is more powerful (170W vs 135W) than a lot of the generic units.

Thoughts?

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Ok, thanks guys.

The Wen looks like it's the exact same unit as the Aldi one I've been using for years, and while it's been ok, you can definitely tell it's made down to a price - what I'm trying to do is step up a bit in power/durability without spending a fortune.

Black & Decker, looks like the UK model is slightly different, seems ok, but I'm not sure it's much better than anything else, and doesn't appear to come with the Bowden cable attachment, which I've found to be a nice to have.

Milwaukee is just too expensive to justify for what I need, and I'm not really after something battery powered.

However, what I have found is a "Hi Spec" unit on Amazon that appears to be almost identical to the Sealey one, and about £20 cheaper - but has a 3 year warranty, whereas the Sealey only has 1 year. Even allowing for spending another £7 to get the Bowden cable, that seems like a good option.

I'll sleep on it and see how I feel.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Crow's feet are brilliant for brake line fittings etc, and sometimes they're the only thing that'll get into a particular spot.

They also allow you to use torque wrenches in some situations you otherwise couldn't.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
They're great for strut tops, too.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Biggest thing you can find, built before you were born?

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

Uthor posted:

Yeah, I'm going to need a lot more power than a camcorder battery or USB output. Looking to drive a motor in a rollover fixture in an industrial application. Think an engine stand holding 200-300 lbs. I'm not convinced battery power is the way to go (24V motors are a bit small), but something I need to rule out.

Thanks for the tips. Sorry for being vague, but, work...
Depends on gearing.

24v winch motor on a worm drive and a couple of cheap car batteries in series would be my starting point.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
The thing is, this is already an off-the-shelf piece of kit:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDYZBiYMVHU

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
For gear oil, I usually just use some garden
hose routed up to somewhere convenient, put a funnel in it, and pour the oil down that. It takes time, but I just leave it to get on with it while occasionally topping up the funnel.

Even if you have the hose looped down a bit to get it round and out past the structure of the car etc, while it'll leave a bit of oil in the lowest point, it does the job.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Right, so it has threaded holes, but in the wrong place. What is it? Plastic? Fibreglass? Can you show us how it's meant to go together with the other pieces?

If it's solid, you can probably just drill and tap new ones in it where you need them, but
- if the new holes are too close to the old ones to do this without breaking into the existing hole
and/or
- if the structure is hollow where you need the holes and only solid where the original ones are
then you may be better with a threaded insert. A rivnut should work, but you'd need to use the type (and install it such) that you get a flush surface, if that's a requirement. You could also just bond in a suitable nut or something.

A metal strip with the threaded holes appropriately spaced that you bond in may be the best solution, as compared to a rivnut or other individual option for each hole, it'll be more durable when it comes to not twisting out the structure and spreading the load.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
Might it be easier to redrill the flange on the carbon piece to match the threaded holes?

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.
I've had one of those for a while, it's one of those tools which usually has little benefit, but occasionally is exactly what you need.

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InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.

Elviscat posted:

Yeah, that style of mic should be absolute zero when zeroed, with a high-quality piece of measurmentation like that 100% return it, I bet if you call Starrett directly they'll exchange it or adjust it for you, and then you can be sure you have the real deal. I'm sure you could just adjust everything by the zero-error, but Starrett should stand behind their products.

The units thing is a pretty easy mistake to make, see loving "mils"
Did it come with a little C-hook spanner? Any instructions on the adjustment of it?

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