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RealKyleH posted:I did not, I was just saying I usually see grade 8 or grade 8.8 on engines/stuff I work on and that lower grade bolts were a bad idea. Z3n posted:It's because 8.8 is imperial and 8 is metric, correct? I always see the grade 8 markings on japanese motorcycles. You could technically use them the other way round, but it'd be a bit dodgy, because everyone associates them with imperial and metric fasteners respectively. Personally, I think the metric system is better, for several reasons. First, it gives you real values - the first number is the ultimate tensile strength in units of 100 MPa, the second number being the yield strength of the fastener as a proportion of this UTS. So a 10.9 is 1000 MPa UTS, and has a yield strength of .9x1000 = 900 MPa. 1 MPa = 145 PSI. Secondly, the range of "standard" grades is better. The SAE imperial grades stop at 8 (~10.9), whereas with the metric system you can have 12.9, 14.9 and so on. Lastly, the system of rating by MPa rather than a "grade" is how bolts are specified when making specialist or custom applications - in these instances, imperial stuff will be rated in KSI (which, logically, is 1000xPSI), though metrification of the world in general means the specs often call out MPa also. It gets more complicated the more specialised you go with the intended use, and you start seeing callouts for nominal "cold" strength, plus a minimum strength level at combustion temperatures for things like turbine applications. Aside from the fairly logical sizing of threads for overall diameter and pitch, here's also the whole business of the precise dimensions and classes of threads, but that's really not something you should have to worry about for day-to-day stuff.
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Feb 3, 2010 23:59
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ab0z posted:There's an alignment machine on the local CL for $500, "needs to be calibrated".
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Feb 5, 2010 13:38
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I use one of these types mostly: There's a few different places that sell them - they're not expensive, and I find they're much easier to use than most strippers I've tried. They're "rated" 26-14 AWG, if that will do what you need. For scale, they're about 5" long.
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Mar 5, 2010 19:12
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duep posted:Are jacks like that any good to work safely underneath a car or is that more of a certain death by smothering kind of tool? I'm planning to drop the transmission if that's any indication. 
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Mar 5, 2010 19:33
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revmoo posted:Not a terrible idea but aren't those allen keys made out of hardened steel or something? Also where the hell can you even find a large allen key (17+mm)?  Or if you're cheap/desperate, a suitable bolt, nut and blob of weld will do in a pinch, then turn it with a socket or spanner.
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Mar 22, 2010 00:29
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RealKyleH posted:Properly heat treat Proper HT gear is brilliant, until your vacuum furnace starts leaking and you don't realise until after you've scrapped $50,000 worth of parts...
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Mar 23, 2010 00:00
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RealKyleH posted:I thought college books were expensive.  isn't the half of it. At least most of the proprietary specifications are provided free of charge by customers if you're working on that particular job/programme (and can prove it, of course).
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Mar 23, 2010 00:35
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RealKyleH posted:What sorta plant/specs if you don't mind me asking?
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Mar 23, 2010 01:01
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RealKyleH posted:Bolts with holes in them? I work for a company that makes the cable to go in the holes among other things. giundy posted:AS series nickle based alloys?
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Mar 23, 2010 18:00
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Money Walrus posted:I keep seeing fancy new ratcheting box wrenches and all kinds of other newfangled electric-scissor type tools on the market today. Most of my tools are my grandfather's forged 1950s Craftsman ratchets, sockets, and combination wrenches. Is there anything newfangled that you guys feel is absolutely necessary for everyday wrenching? I don't even own an impact gun.  Just buy good-quality kit as and when you really need something specific for a given job.
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Mar 28, 2010 14:37
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Lead hammers also don't cause sparks, which is pretty useful in some environments (hitting slogging wrenches in piping work, for example).
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Apr 7, 2010 17:52
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Just buy a generic replacement regulator from wherever's cheapest?
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Apr 7, 2010 22:06
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PBCrunch posted:There is a lot of talk about electrical connectors here so I will ask a question.
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Apr 23, 2010 18:05
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FormulaXFD posted:I would be starting from scratch if I went the TIG route. 
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May 26, 2010 21:01
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frozenphil posted:Air ratchets seem like such a great idea until you actually use one. I'll pick up a regular ratchet instead of the air ratchet 99 times out of 100. What I'm saying is try one out before you plop down a couple hundred dollars on a tool you may not like much, especially for a lovely setup for a tool you may not like much. I find it's only really useful for when I need something to sit there winding away on something that needs a bit more torque than a drill-type driver, but not the savagery of an impact wrench. T-800 CPU access port retaining screws, for instance.
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Jun 4, 2010 16:46
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frozenphil posted:loving BURN!
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Jun 4, 2010 20:53
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ab0z posted:Compressed air powered festiva
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Jun 9, 2010 19:44
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sbyers77 posted:I'd be interested to see the same thing after a few months use.
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Jun 28, 2010 07:12
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UK goons: B&Q have got a bank holiday special on this weekend with pressure washers for £20. They're a bit basic, obviously, but do the job. They also have a garden electrics set of mover, strimmer and hedge trimmer for £25 if you're in dire need of them.
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Aug 28, 2010 21:15
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I just discovered that when the cutting discs for my 9" angle grinder are worn down too small to use, they fit perfectly on my 4.5" grinder instead. Excellent!
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Sep 26, 2010 15:07
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Slung Blade posted:Where the hell do you find a 9" angle grinder? That's loving gigantic.  They're more expensive than smaller ones, but not by much.
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Sep 26, 2010 19:26
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One of my workmates uses one (well, the same idea, not that particular make), and it seems to do a good job - the first time he used it, he pulled the sump plug afterwards to check, and it was pretty much bone dry.
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Oct 10, 2010 17:56
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You can buy bearing drawer slides at DIY stores and fit them to a cheapo toolchest yourself, should the whim take you.
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Oct 30, 2010 22:57
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Geared Hub posted:Yeah, I was about to mention if you work at a shop/service center with lots of techs working, the local tool truck will give you EZ-credit to buy overpriced tool boxes.
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Nov 2, 2010 23:28
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A 32mm would probably be good enough for something that's not that tight.
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Nov 8, 2010 22:13
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MomJeans420 posted:I know this has been discussed before in the tool thread, but I don't remember the consensus. What's the preferred way to make electrical connections for car audio work? I'm an rear end who used electrical tape, but now I have to change things around and it's all messy from the tape. quote:Also, what's the best way to make connections for wire that will be handling 110V that is also outside? The people who owned my house before me extended the cord for an outside light by cutting off the plug at the end of the card, then using electrical tape to connect it to an extension cord that was cut in half. I figure this can't be a good way to handle 110V near sprinklers...
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Nov 17, 2010 23:06
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Cat Hatter posted:Wouldn't soldered wires have to already be under tension for the joint to even experience vibration, much less break because of it?
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Nov 18, 2010 19:17
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Josh Lyman posted:That said, is there a better solution than just going to Home Depot and buying all these pieces separately? On a related note, what's the consensus on plastic tool boxes vs fabric tool bags? http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_713989_langId_-1_categoryId_165572 As for bags or boxes, boxes all the way.
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Nov 21, 2010 18:31
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AnomalousBoners posted:Also I break small taps (8-32 and under) all the time. Even with decent tapping procedures its just a bitch to tap tiny poo poo and when you're tapping a long part or something if it bends at all it'll often break the tap.
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Nov 24, 2010 21:35
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AnomalousBoners posted:I should probably start clamping it down after I use it to align it to eliminate the possibility of those moments. As it is I just stick a pin through the holes to limit but not eliminate rotation of the vise. Sounds like they should really be using a larger thread with an insert rather than just tapping straight in with the small thread, but that's not going to happen, is it? Could be worse, you could be the guy on our CNCs who snapped a dozen taps off in some not-bargain-basement inconel bits because he didn't check he'd drilled his pilot hole the right size. Oh how we laughed as a £90 tap went ping. 
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Nov 24, 2010 22:35
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I've added one of these to my old man's Christmas presents, seems like a useful little gadget: It's a short extension bar with an LED light built into it, so you can target fastener heads in the depths of the engine bay or undercarriage without a separate torch. I've had a fair few "Bugger, need both hands, have to try and correctly angle a penlight I'm holding in my mouth" situations that this should avoid.
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Dec 11, 2010 15:58
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needknees posted:Anyone have suggestions for a decent pressure washer, probably electric? I don't need something insanely powerful, basically I want one to spray dirtbikes off instead of having to stop at a carwash on the way home from riding. Splizwarf posted:Where'd you find it? Looks good.
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Dec 11, 2010 22:46
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Sounds like you might want to spend a bit more, yeah, so listen to Skyssx. My reasons for suggesting a cheapo one are that I have pretty minimal use requirements (hosing something down every now and then), and while they're guaranteed to break at some point, a £25 unit every year or two is fine by me.
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Dec 12, 2010 18:19
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grover posted:Sketches help, too.
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Dec 18, 2010 18:09
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Hey, hey, hey: £25 for an 18v drill, grinder, jigsaw, torch and charger with two batteries. Standard Aldi 3-year warranty.
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Dec 18, 2010 21:43
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The fasteners, fittings and pistons etc are still going to be ferrous, though, so check them out. A dousing of WD40 or similar might be an idea.
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Dec 29, 2010 00:41
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I guess a proper cleaning, polishing and waxing beforehand might be a good idea, too.
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Dec 30, 2010 18:03
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Rhyno posted:You and your mod-logic are not welcome here! This is the TOOL thread! Not the masonry thread!
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Jan 1, 2011 00:38
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Wood can be fine, but you want big, solid lumps of it, a shape that's naturally stable, and pay attention to which way the grain's running. A stack of small pieces is still a really, really bad idea. An old railway sleeper makes a good way of raising a trolley jack another 6", but you have to make sure it can't move. One danger is that the concentrated load of the wheels can compress the wood, and if that happens unevenly, the whole thing will start to tilt over. The issue with cinder blocks and bricks is that, while they are quite strong in compression, this is based on them being part of a wall, and evenly loaded. Again, if you put something like a jack on a cinder block, or stick it under an axle, you're then putting a hefty point load onto it - it might just crush a little bit, or it might crack, or explode into a small pile of rubble. If you put a steel plate or something on it first, it might be ok, but I wouldn't bank on it. Also, the compressive strength of a brick might be as low as 3.5MPa. Steel? Hundreds of MPa. Four figures for some grades. The point is, a jack, an axle stand, a hoist or whatever is a piece of lifting equipment. It is designed, tested and rated to lift and/or support a given load, usually with a safety factor of 4:1 or higher. Do not use anything else unless you know exactly what you're doing, and "I've been doing this for years" or "Someone on the internet said" does not cut it. If you find yourself not having enough height on your trolley jack or stands, you should probably just get a bigger one. I use a long-chassis 2-tonne trolley jack, which will lift from 5.5" to 32" - my cheapo basic one might drop slightly lower (about 5"), but the 15" max height was a joke on some of my cars - wouldn't even touch the jacking point in the first place.
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Jan 1, 2011 14:53
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While a leadscrew isn't that likely to back itself out (as Nerobo pointed out, applications where this is desired use a much higher helix angle), you do still have to worry about it stripping. And even if it's perfect when new, over time you can get wear in the components. I had an issue with clamp on a cut-off saw at one place I worked where it just wouldn't tighten down on the workpiece properly - turned out that debris had been working its way into the screw thread over time, and while the thread itself was perfectly fine (hardened steel), the block it ran in (bronze, I believe) had been worn almost completely smooth in just a few years of use. It'd screw down, but anything more than the lightest resistance would cause it to skip and back off. From the outside, you couldn't see anything wrong with it. Now, that's a fairly extreme example, and it's not likely to happen with an occasionally-used jack, but stuff like this can go wrong. And, as Skyssx pointed out, the jack might well be poo poo in the first place. Most leadscrews are ok, but if you don't look after them (grease the threads etc), you might end up dropping a car on your head. Or bring down an aircraft.
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Jan 3, 2011 13:33
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