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Can it remove and retorque lug nuts? My air compressor leaks and is annoying as hell and my impact sucks anyway. Would it be worth it for that?
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Nov 1, 2010 16:03
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 22:36 |
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Go to mscdirect.com and look for carbide burrs with the shank size that you have dremel collets for.
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Nov 2, 2010 01:38
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DMC uses Kennedy tool chests to supply their tool kits to the military. For example http://www.dmctools.com/assets/dmc314mod1_sl.pdf Pretty much everything there is on the high end of quality and value.
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Nov 2, 2010 08:43
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For one, the ability to make payments you will default on when you're fired.
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Nov 2, 2010 13:12
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Absolutely do not use harborfreight electrical connectors or wire. See previous posts in this thread by me as for why. UL spec connectors are not much more and miles better.
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Nov 8, 2010 12:57
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Heres the results and info from testing HF connectors. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2788369&userid=129244&perpage=40&pagenumber=7
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Nov 8, 2010 18:00
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Yes they are perfectly fine to reform and recut threads.
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Nov 15, 2010 03:06
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Holy poo poo that would be perfect to have by a taller milling machine to get at the drawbar comfortably and have the basic tools Id need for it. I think I will pick one up and maybe one for the boss at work as a christmas present.
AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Nov 22, 2010 |
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Nov 22, 2010 04:51
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I have copmpletely quit buying craftsman anything and the entry level craftsman tool chest I got new is a piece of poo poo compared to the used husky chest I got off craigslist. Ive used them about equally, both store very heavy tools, but the craftsmans drawers have warped and arent smooth at all. For the last couple years I basically either get decent tools used or harbor freight tools cheap.
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Nov 22, 2010 06:32
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The Scientist posted:
Did I miss something? Also I break small taps (8-32 and under) all the time. Even with decent tapping procedures its just a bitch to tap tiny poo poo and when you're tapping a long part or something if it bends at all it'll often break the tap.
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Nov 24, 2010 18:45
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I usually take the pulley belt off a floor drill press and put it in a chuck and the part in a rinky dink vise. The side loading happens when I reverse and it starts to spin the other direction especially if the tap bottomed out and started to bind on the thread. Often parts are spec'd such that the thread depth may exceed maximum thread strength for that material (I.E. 3x tap dia in aluminum in a blind hole gently caress my gay life) I should probably start clamping it down after I use it to align it to eliminate the possibility of those moments. As it is I just stick a pin through the holes to limit but not eliminate rotation of the vise.
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Nov 24, 2010 22:06
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I use MagicTap for aluminum but when you're tapping a 75% hole that is .089 wide and .5 deep its just a risk you run. Either you take forever clearing chips or you hope it doesn't bind. I am going to start insisting that the other guy who I work with (its a 4 man shop) make sure the speeds an feeds are right to tap on the CNC. He loves to leave poo poo 80% completed when it could be brought to 95% in the machine in a single setup. The 20% is always stuff like face to length and drill and tap holes then I look like a dick when a tap breaks. Meanwhile I tap on the CNC fine. Nice thing about that is you can tap in .1 increments then clear the hole and its still faster than the drill press.
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Nov 25, 2010 00:19
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Wombot posted:
I think the prevailing wisdom is not to buy jack stands that are made of sheet metal but rather have large cast steel pieces with thick sheet metal bases.
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Nov 27, 2010 05:27
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FUCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCK
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Dec 1, 2010 11:47
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Pretty much anything will weld floor pans as theyre not thick nor do they require the utmost structural integrity. It should definitely work. That said I am in Orlando and have a friend on SA who's dad is selling his cheap wirefed welder which will also do the trick. It is flux core but it'll be a lot cheaper. (If youre the engineering type you can convert it to mig) I think his ID on here is Skipopatomus.
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Dec 5, 2010 21:42
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I have the lightweight rapid pump aluminum blue one and man is it loving awesome. It was $149 when I bought it over two years ago and works as perfectly as when new.
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Dec 7, 2010 14:02
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Punch holes in a piece of cardboard with an ink pen or something and put all the bolts in it and then label where they came from. This is both free and fairly effective
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Dec 18, 2010 16:34
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Uthor posted:I'm pretty jealous of this. It's so organized!
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Dec 26, 2010 18:41
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 22:36 |
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Exhaust shops can sometimes make you stamped steel sockets for larger diameters like that too.
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Jan 7, 2011 03:41
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