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I bought a $20 face shield the last time I was at Farm and Fleet and have used the thing every weekend since. Everyone should have one of those.
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Jun 21, 2013 23:03
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LASIK is probably the best thing I ever did and worth every penny. I went from 20/400 or something hilarious like that to 20/15.
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Jun 23, 2013 20:17
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I've got this Extech meter that was recommended on the eevblog and I'm happy with it. I got it to do a bit of electronics fuckery though. It's probably way overkill for 99% of automotive poo poo.
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Aug 8, 2013 04:18
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I've got the metric version of this Ingersoll Rand impact set. I'm happy enough with it that I plan on getting the SAE and deep well versions at some point. $35, lifetime warranty, and comes from a brand that knows a little bit about air tools. I have no idea what strings are attached to that warranty though. The case that they come in is hilariously huge so plan on some other way of storing them unless you've got a lot of extra space.
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Sep 11, 2013 01:12
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 Did it break when it tipped or did it tip because it broke?I assume the former but the latter is a bit more exciting.
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Nov 15, 2013 01:34
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I didn't get snark out of anything you posted. A lathe is so obviously a lathe to anyone that knows the least bit about machining that I'm not surprised that you didn't explicitly state it. Especially since AI has such a large number of machinists and people with knowledge of machining. If someone posted a picture of a ratchet snapped in half they probably wouldn't explicitly say that it's a ratchet just because it's such a fundamental tool that it's easy to forget that not everyone has that same knowledge.
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Nov 15, 2013 17:29
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Bought a mighty vac and used it to bleed my brakes today. Holy poo poo that thing is awesome. A little pricy but it looks very well made and my dad and I split the cost so that made it even better.
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Nov 16, 2013 22:16
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If you've got a drill press it would be easy to make something similar our of wood or pvc stock with the correct sized holes.
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Dec 17, 2013 03:47
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sharkytm posted:Personally, I'd go for the Millermatic 211, which can do 120/240 volt. This is my plan for late next year although depending on funds at the time I might go with the Hobart version since it's much cheaper. 240 is a pretty big increase in duty cycle and thickness and having the 120 option makes it easy to use almost anywhere. It's kinda expensive but would handle everything I need for a long time.
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Dec 24, 2013 21:15
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I mostly only use 1/2" since that's what my impact sockets are. So I just grab those at the start of any project and don't use anything else unless I need to for some weird reason.
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Jan 11, 2014 17:35
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I've got a Milwaukee Model #0234-6 5.5-Amp 1/2" with a keyed chuck and look it's even on sale. It's an older design that's been around a while because it's excellent and is much better than the higher amp version that sort of replaced it*. All the important bits are metal and the wear parts are designed to be replaced instead of throwing away the whole thing and buying a new one. The trigger is smooth and actually allows you to vary the speed with a reasonable amount of precision unlike a lot of the newer designs (from all the manufacturers) which are gritty and awful. The cord detaches at the base of the drill so when you stuff the thing in a box the strain relief doesn't sit at 90* and fail like every other drill I've had. Also it has a 5 year warranty. *It sort of seems like they are phasing the thing out but there are tons of them out there so I'm not sure. Galler fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Jan 25, 2014 |
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Jan 25, 2014 08:24
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I have no experience with that particular one but my dad has had one of these types of manual impact drivers for ages and it does work. I would still get a separate breaker bar though.
Galler fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Feb 4, 2014 |
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Feb 4, 2014 05:34
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I have an Aircat 1150 and was fighting with a cross threaded lug nut wondering why the thing couldn't break it loose. Turned out I had the regulator turned down  Cranked up the pressure to where it was supposed to be and it happily sheared the lug stud off like it was made of chinesium.
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Mar 7, 2014 01:26
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Now I know what I'm doing with all my soldering and other general electronics poo poo. That's so much better than trying in vain to keep it all organized in a cardboard box. Thanks for the tip!
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Mar 9, 2014 01:45
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Uthor posted:This particular one has space for two stow away boxes. Something that integrates those would be great for organizing small components (resisters, etc) if you use parts like that. All my components are in these kinda things. Got about three of those (not that one exactly but same type of thing) filled with pinball parts. I'm sure in theory it's possible to have too many of those organizers but I've never seen it in practice.
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Mar 9, 2014 02:15
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Pretty sure I remember reading that Hakko irons cannot be made to work on a different voltage/frequency without replacing parts. I remember Aussies on the EEVblog complaining about that because they are getting gouged to gently caress like the UK is.
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Mar 12, 2014 00:50
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There's a connector made to do that which I've always heard called a 'P' connector (it looks like a P and the circular part of the P hinges open and clamps down on the existing wire) but I'm not finding it under that name. I'm not sure if there is a weather tight version of it though. e: http://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-wire-splices/=r21b8l Select 'Narrow By: Wire Taps' There's also a multi-wire heat shrink butt splice on there if you don't select Narrow By. Galler fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 06:02
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I've got the older version of that drill (0234-6 5.5 amp) and it's boss as hell. Some reviews and comments I read while looking for a corded drill said that the 8 amp version you linked used more plastic and that the trigger felt lovely compared to the 5.5 amp one. I have no idea if that's the case or not as I've not run across the 8 amp version. I do like the detachable cord design of the 5.5 amp version though. Regardless the drill is plenty powerful but still very controllable. e:
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Mar 16, 2014 08:10
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He revises that in a latter video saying it's probably closer to 65-75 ton (still hugely impressive of course) and is also a shitload of work to actually use. Kastein's approach is probably a much more practical way to go. Still a cool project though.
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Mar 26, 2014 00:55
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It is but it also requires a large and well secured vise to use it and would be very difficult to tighten evenly. Still a cool project for anyone with the appropriate tools and parts.
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Mar 26, 2014 01:12
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kastein posted:Wait, I have a method for this? News to me. Unless you're talking about thermal trickery, which is hardly my invention, I just use it a lot. I thought you built like a ~20 ton press out of some c-channel and a bottle jack a while back. Did you just start planning it or am I thinking of someone else?
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Mar 26, 2014 18:07
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InitialDave posted:Somehow, there has been a flurry of miniature workshop kit posted on Imgur: There's an 'Aww' section on reddit for cute things and there was a theme of cute man stuff or something like that.
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Mar 30, 2014 17:29
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Get the 1/2 in chuck and don't worry about RPM. 850-950 is plenty for a hand drill. I'm not really sure what the difference between the two $150 ones are but get one of those. e: Amazon.ca has them cheaper: 0300-20 0299-20 I've got the 0234-6 which I like a little better (cord and side handle design) but don't think it's worth $50 more. It was a lot cheaper on this side of the border. Galler fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Apr 16, 2014 |
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Apr 16, 2014 06:30
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I've got one of their 32mm impact sockets and an impact socket adapter set and I'm happy with them. I'm not sure if their stuff is good but I don't think it's worse than HF/PA stuff.
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Apr 17, 2014 07:06
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I realized I didn't even have a 1/4 ratchet and all my 3/8ths are total poo poo so I decided to fix that with some 120 tooth flex head GearWrench ratchets. These things are wonderful  No play in the mechanism and the slightest turn engages a tooth.
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Apr 21, 2014 21:37
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I used my drill press* again tonight and was reminded that it was one of my best ever purchases. I use the thing all the time for little projects and it makes putting holes in things so loving easy (and fun) that it's worth every penny. Obviously there are much better drill presses out there but for the money I don't think it can be beat. Well, unless you can score something off Craigslist but at the time I couldn't find anything as good for anywhere close to the price that was of a similar size (not huge). * aka a Jet JDP-12 with a different paint job and a Menards logo for $150 less. Galler fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 03:06
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melon cat posted:Thanks for the additional info re: using the Magnum for cement mixing. I'm hoping to do a concrete pour for a kitchen sink at some point, so we'll see how that goes.
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Apr 26, 2014 19:17
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Generally known as a woodworker's vise if you're trying to google it. If you're not into woodworking then I probably wouldn't bother. Just get the biggest heaviest vise you can. Preferably something 30+ years old made in not china off craigslist or whatever.
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Apr 27, 2014 18:49
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A proper woodworking bench is an amazing thing for, well, woodworking and doesn't become unusable for other tasks. Although you might want extra support if you're going to mount a big metal vise and grinder to it. As for the vise it unsurprisingly works great for woodworking. Like eddiewalker mentioned a normal metal vise may have trouble securely holding a wood project without damaging it while the the woodworking vise is well suited to the task. Here's The New Yankee Workshop's work bench to give you some ideas. e: oh, and since you're space limited remember that you don't have to have every tool ready to go at all times. Make mounting points for your grider and vise and whatnot so you can pull them out and bolt them to the table when needed and remove and tuck away when not. Galler fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Apr 27, 2014 |
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Apr 27, 2014 19:17
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A T Nut or a threaded insert for wood will do that. I would probably just through bolt it because  and I don't know how strong those inserts are.
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Apr 28, 2014 04:00
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Thinking about this more if I was going to drill a bunch of holes in a workbench to mount tools I would do it in a standardized way. I would take a 1/2" or 5/8ths inch sheet of plywood and cut it into maybe 10" x 10" or 12" x 12" squares and drill a standardized bolt pattern around the outside edge and a matching bolt pattern through the workbench. Each tool (vise, bench grinder, etc.) would get its own square which it would be mounted to resulting in something like this (looking at it from the bottom side): SketchUp is being a bitch so just imagine there's a bolt going though a large washer, through the shape, and through the mounting holes of a vise on the other side with a nut holding it all together. These plywood 'plates' would be left attached to the tool. Then when you wanted to use the tool you would just set it on the workbench, line up the outer holes, and drop a bolt through each hole (or every other one depending on how well it needs to be mounted) all the way through the table and then stick a washer and nut on to secure it. Hopefully that makes sense. End result would be that you don't end up with a bunch of holes scattered all over your workbench to account for every tool you might want to mount and the plywood will help distribute the load so your bench top doesn't get beat up as bad.
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Apr 29, 2014 00:22
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The only Ryobi tool I have is a table saw which was $80 or $100 new. News flash: don't loving buy an $80 table saw. I can make straighter cuts with less kickback freehanding a circular saw. I knew it wasn't going to be great when I bought it but it was small enough to fit on my apartment balcony and at an impulse buy price sooo.
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May 5, 2014 03:03
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Should be able to disassemble it enough for one or at most two people to move it and although three phase is not ideal for home use it's a solvable problem. I'm even closeish to Chicago but am ~10 months away from buying a house. Hope I can find a deal like that once I move!
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May 11, 2014 06:07
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I've got some Microflex gloves as well. Specifically these ones and I'm happy with them. They're fairly durable and go on and come off easily without grabbing hair like whatever brand I had before.
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May 13, 2014 00:50
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I've got a Mityvac MV6835 which has worked great for me. I was looking at the Motive bleeder but didn't want to dick around with different master cylinder adapters. Being able to easily DIY a Motive styler bleeder for cheap is tempting though.
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May 16, 2014 18:18
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You got it pretty much. It allows you to quickly drill angled holes with the proper spacing/alignment so that you can then put a screw through them into another piece of wood to join them together without the screw being visible from the outside/side people can see or because you would need a really long screw to go through straight. Common on cabinets and such. e: here's a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrIFHMEPkXs&t=209s Galler fucked around with this message at 21:48 on May 24, 2014 |
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May 24, 2014 21:41
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Harbor Freight has their 1/2 inch torque wrench on sale for $10 through Sunday. Also saw that 3/4 inch SAE ratchet/breaker/socket combo thingy kastein was talking about a couple posts up for $60 or $65 or something. I would have gotten that combo but I'm running out of room to put poo poo so it will have to wait until I buy a house. Also used a super coupon to get their 3 ton low profile jack for $83. It's just low enough (overall height not where the pad is) to shove the thing far enough under the front of my Fit to get the front jacking point. Now I don't have to drive up onto ramps to get the jack to the jacking point to then put the thing on stands.
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Jun 7, 2014 22:02
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Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Li8UlyU8AUM&t=237s. The CTX video is essentially the same except instead of having the work offset the tool is. e: I know of a couple good videos that feature offset boring but I can't find them.
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Jun 8, 2014 22:35
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Rhyno posted:I do believe that award goes to this 
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Jun 12, 2014 00:24
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 13:56 |
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I've got a pair of the 16,000 lb ones and they seem pretty sturdy. Of course I bought the bigger set when I still had my Impala (with plans to get a truck). Now that I've got a Fit they're too big so the air dam thing scrapes going up them and I don't really have enough low end torque to drive up them in a controlled fashion. Jack and jack stands are my preferred vehicle elevation system. At least until I get a house and install a lift in the garage.
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Jun 12, 2014 02:30
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