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That is simply a caliber problem.
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Apr 24, 2012 02:32
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 17:31 |
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OnlyJuanMon posted:tire rotations, Torque sticks and a print out of this PDF taped to your box.
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May 16, 2012 15:07
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sharkytm posted:Harbor freight air tools are not crop. I've got their 1/2 impact (earthquake), die grinder , angle die grinder, needle gun, etc. All work great and were cheap. The only complaint about the earthquake impact is that it's heavy and loud as hell. I'll agree with the "not crap". I have several. I think they get a bad rap for losing power because they are often baby's first air tools and aren't lubricated properly by the uninitiated. Most of them are pretty big for their power output, so it makes tight spots more difficult than with tools that cost 4 times as much.
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May 16, 2012 20:36
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OnlyJuanMon posted:Can you tell me about proper lubricating for baby's first air tool then? When you first get it, turn it upside down and fill it with oil up to the top of the air fitting. Now squeeze the trigger to let the oil run into the tool. Hook it up to the air hose, point the exhaust at the ground/away from you and run it until no more oil flies out. Now just add a few drops every morning before you use it. You don't need to add so much that it runs out every day.....you'll get the feel for it. Each tool is a little different in how much it takes. If you don't do that they either sludge up or rust from the condensation in the shop air supply. Motronic fucked around with this message at 21:07 on May 16, 2012 |
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May 16, 2012 21:04
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OnlyJuanMon posted:
Nope, fill it to the top of your air fitting. No need to remove it. As far as what kind of oil, "air tool oil". The have it at HF and pretty much any place that sells air tools. It has a squeeze top on it that fits right in the air fitting so it doesn't make a mess.
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May 16, 2012 21:12
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OnlyJuanMon posted:Ah, okay. For some reason I had it in my head that I would be filling the whole loving gun. But just fill it to the top of the air fitting, attach it to the hose, then add a few drops every day. Thanks! Yep. Just to the top of the air fitting on that first fill or after a rebuild (or after it's been sitting for months) to make sure you get it really lubed up. It's really not that much oil....you aren't filling the whole thing, just up to the valve. Then when you press the valve it dumps in. Then hook up the hose.
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May 16, 2012 21:28
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kastein posted:Only reason I wouldn't put it directly on the end of my air hose is that I don't want to fill my tires with air tool oil. Which you will even on a quick disconnect because the inside of your hoses will be loaded with oil. I've though av the same thing, but keep going back to a big no. The only way I'd do it would be to have a separate air tool hose/hoses and manifold the "air only" ones back behind the oiler.
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May 17, 2012 00:27
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kastein posted:That's what I mean. Basically an inline oiler with disconnects on both sides, that I insert between the air hose and the tool. If I'm wanting just air, remove it, and connect my blowgun/tire filler/whatever directly to the hose. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you or I wasn't being clear.....if you run a hose in front of an oiler, even after you remove the oiler the hose is gonna blow oil on/in everything. You'd need separate air hoses to pull this off.
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May 17, 2012 04:32
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Splizwarf posted:He's talking about Compressor -> Hose -> Quick Connect -> Oiler -> Short Hose -> Air Tool. The short hose goes away with the oiler when that's disconnected, and is the only section of hose that gets oil in it. I guess the only oilers I've seen are absolutely mount-it-to-the-wall type deals, so I don't see how I'd set one up other than at the manifold. That and I use retractable hoses on the ceiling.
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May 17, 2012 04:45
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penis bandana posted:http://www.harborfreight.com/air-angle-die-grinder-32046.html This is how you ruin aluminum blocks and heads.
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May 19, 2012 15:04
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penis bandana posted:You guys know that they make different kinds of abrasives for your die grinder, right? Is this directed at me? Yes, I am aware that they make more than one type of abrasive. The problem isn't with type, it's with abrasives period. That's not how it should be done. Plastic scrapers and chemical help followed by razor blades if necessary is how you do it without risk of damage.
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May 19, 2012 20:11
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bolind posted:What power brake bleeders are good? The standard non-professional one that everyone at the track has around here is the Motive. I've had mine for years. Works great. I wouldn't consider doing brakes or clutches without one.
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May 20, 2012 20:33
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Neptr posted:This. Using plastic bristles on an angle grinder makes using a razor blade seem like the stone age. It's good for anything where you need to remove crap without damaging the surface metal. Except I've seen aluminum surfaces ruined by even the white (lightest) bristle discs. Have you noticed that no matter how lightly you use one on aluminum it still ends up leaving swirls? That's missing metal. You may get away with that just fine if you are exceptionally careful, but you are really asking for problems especially with bimetal engines and MLS gaskets. I "repaired" one for a friend that failed to do excessive scotchbriting by coating the new gasket with Hylomar (which I can't even find locally anymore - Permatex used to sell it so it was in most parts stores). That's what I consider an atrocious hack job, but it worked for a few years at least (truck has since been sold). I get it, everyone wants a faster and easier way. I do too. But I won't do it to the detriment of doing the job properly. Sharp razor blades at very low angles and solvent get the job done without risk of damage, so I'll be sticking with them until I see something better that doesn't remove metal.
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May 21, 2012 15:51
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grover posted:How much impact does it have on engine power? Does it reduce power output at all? It didn't do anything that I could tell to my 5k generator. Brigs motor, so it's still noisy and clangy because the internals on those motors sound like you're throwing a box of silverware down the steps when they're spinning, but at least very little exhaust noise. I think the muffler I used was supposed to go on a 4cyl Accord from the early 90s.
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Jul 20, 2012 13:58
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1st Edition ADandD posted:So, before I get at it, are there any secret techniques to helicoil thread inserts? I have a couple of stripped M10x1.25 bolt holes for a sway bar bracket, and the helicoils look (deceptively?) easy if you're patient and don't try to do it from a weird angle. Any advice appreciated. The only "secret" to helicoiling is knowing how to properly cut threads. This means your drilling and tapping MUST BE STRAIGHT. Yeah, I don't care how good you think you are.....it's not gonna be straight by hand. If being off a bit is OK for the application, go for it. If not, make a guide so you know you're straight. Wait...you don't have the facilities to make a template? Yeah...not all helicoil jobs are easy....sorry. For a sway bar bracket, chances are good being off a bit isn't a big deal, so you're probably going to be just fine with a cordless drill and a helicoil kit. Don't think you can do the same thing for head bolts, spark plugs bores, and bolt holes for flanged joints and you'll be fine.
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Jul 21, 2012 01:37
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Sockington posted:I picked up an INNOVA 3100 and it's all I'd ever need. Gives you the code and description on the screen and was under $100. BCM readings and controls (vendor specific and usually very expensive), ABS readings (same as the last), freeze frame data (Mode $06), IM readiness status (Mode $03), live data and the ability to log and graph it over time....... pretty much everything that makes OBDII useful as a diagnostic tool, and why I don't even both with readers anymore and just use a laptop (I have one of those cheap little netbooks just for the purpose) because it's enough data that you really do want a keyboard and mouse and the ability to do useful things with it. If you don't know what one or more of these things are and are serious about wrenching on 1996+ vehicles it would be a very good idea to get familiar. OBDII is a lot more then DTCs, clearing "Check Engine" lights (MILs), and making cheap extra gauges. In fact, it probably warrants it own thread on AI.
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Jul 27, 2012 16:05
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Sockington posted:I just wasn't sure if these more consumer priced units are performing as well as the multi-thousand dollar Snap-On poo poo. Going with an ELM USB/bluetooth to OBDII cable and software makes for an even cheaper setup with more capabilities if you already have a laptop to use with it. Even cheaper yet if you have flexible morals and a torrent client.
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Jul 28, 2012 19:55
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Raw_Beef posted:16 amps aint poo poo, id expect a compressor to draw way more than that. Most cars made today roll with 60 amp fuses on their main power feed junction box. I = V/R 16 amps at 240v is 3840 watts. At 12 volts you'd need a 320 amp circuit breaker to handle the same amount of power.
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Jul 29, 2012 17:47
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bolind posted:This is why you 'mercuns stress so much when using more than average juice (welders, compressors, espresso machines). Your 120V is fixed, so the amps go up, and there's a limit to how many amps you can draw through normal house wiring. Meanwhile, I have 13 and 16 amp fuses in my little yuppie flat, but since it's in 230V, I can draw the equivalent of 26/32amps had I had half the voltage (120V-ish). It's also why most of us have 240v in our shops, and why we run server racks and other large computing installations on 208v. Most of my blade chassis have a couple of 208V 20A 3-phase lines feeding them. Trying to run them with 120V would be madness and require all manner of additional power cables all over the place.
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Jul 29, 2012 18:54
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daslog posted:Don't Use POR15 on anything you plan on topcoating later. (Unless you don't care about the quality of your paint jobs, in which case go nuts) Or, you know...use the appropriate mid-coat (POR-15 Tie Coat Primer) before your color coat.
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Aug 13, 2012 20:30
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I don't even know where this belongs, but I just found it on a Toyota forum and some people seemed to be taking it seriously:Some Troll posted:HOW TO TORQUE WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH
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Aug 14, 2012 22:42
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So when changing the timing belt on a 3.4L 'yota the FSM tells you to remove the hydraulic tensioner, put it in a vice to compress it and pin it in place. Great, except you have to remove the AC compressor and bracket to do that and it's a major pain. Snap-On to the rescue:  You put that thing between the tensioner pulley and water pump pulley and crank it out. Except I don't have one of those. So I took did something that aparently no one at any of the Toyota forums had thought of as far as I can tell:  The pulley is off of the tensioner, but I left the (soon to be replaced) bracket. You just need to crank the vise clamp as much as you possibly can and use your man hands to get in on there. Then count to 30 as you watch the tensioner retract and stick a 2mm allen wrench in the hole. Suck it, Snap On.
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Aug 15, 2012 00:34
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ALL NEW!!! From Motronic Heavy Industries and Private Military Contracting, Ltd Too cheap and/or disorganized to get the proper SST for a Toyota crank? Getting it back to 217 ft/lbs of torque got you down? Try the ALL NEW "Bar Stockinator":   "Yes, those are Harbor Freight punches." (tm)
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Aug 16, 2012 00:32
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Cowwan posted:I used a similar setup to get the crank pulley off of my Honda. Off wasn't much of a problem on this one, as I already had the bottom armor off and it's a straight shot to the garage floor from the pulley once you're at that point. I just used a breaker bar with a cheater pipe sitting on the floor and bumped the starter as my 1/2" air ratchet was too big to fit (even with the radiator already out). On is a different story......I don't think there's any way around holding it, and strap wrenches just aren't gonna cut it at those kinds of torque values.
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Aug 16, 2012 01:43
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kastein posted:preferably on the supply line to all the tools Or at least have a dedicated hose for painting, which is what I do. My cheap poo poo water separator steals enough CFMs that it pisses me off for non-painting duties so I've gone to that setup. Those with more $$$ to spend on equipment won't have this issue.
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Aug 17, 2012 03:00
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sharkytm posted:My scan gauge will do that, sorta. It logs the freeze frame data if there's a code. That's just mode $03.....the ECU is storing that and you are retrieving it. I think PitViper is looking for something more like this
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Aug 25, 2012 02:57
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PitViper posted:Yup, similar to that. I'd just like to be able to see what the ECU is seeing at the time of the fault. Well, that's pretty much mode $03. Have you tried using that for diagnostics? I know a lot of mechanics don't and are amazed when I show them how useful $03 and $06 are.
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Aug 25, 2012 14:00
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Bang Me Please posted:I haven't had any problem with Craftsman sockets themselves but if you go that route budget in a nicer ratchet from somebody else. The newer Craftsman ratchets are better as far as size, but you're totally right about getting a good ratchet. I picked up a couple of the newer high-tooth-count Snap Ons (I think they are the "Dual 80" series). They were goddamn expensive but worth every penny. They seem to have at least double the detents/clicks whatever, so working in tight spaces is so much easier. Could I live without them? Sure. Just like I could live without my gear wrenches. But I sure as hell wouldn't want to. They definitely cut down on the swearing.
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Aug 29, 2012 15:07
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Phone posted:Went to Sears today and saw that Gear Wrench is 50% off. I might get some... If you don't have any now.....DO IT. They will make your wrenching so much easier.
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Aug 31, 2012 00:36
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Splizwarf posted:Trouble is the Sears sets are incomplete. Really? I have one that I got several years ago and it's 8 to 18mm with no gaps.
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Aug 31, 2012 03:14
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Splizwarf posted:Sounds like you're missing the 19mm that came with mine. Yeah....that was super annoying and I bought one separate less than a week after getting the set. SO CLOSE to being a good set. But at least it's not a bunch of weird gaps between sizes.
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Aug 31, 2012 16:44
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grover posted:Bottom line: do whatever the gently caress you want to do; it will have no impact whatsoever on your torque wrench. Just don't unscrew it completely. I'm not saying that I know what's in a torque wrench that might benefit from unloading past a spring, but basic materials science says that springs wear from movement, not remaining in a static position. This very well may be a large component in both the torque wrench as well as gun magazine debates.
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Sep 7, 2012 02:59
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grover posted:Counterpoint: another paragraph that we haven't quoted yet says to move your torque wrench back and forth a bunch of times after it's been sitting for a while to spread the grease out. I'll totally buy that as it falls into the "things other than a spring in there" category, but it's not a wear issue.
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Sep 7, 2012 03:24
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PBCrunch posted:I bought a Harbor Freight 20 ton press the other day. It did the job but it is kind of bare bones. What kinds of things can I get cheap and use for spacers and shims for the press? I got a bunch of scrap pieces of 1/8" steel from my friend but it takes a lot of shims to raise something up an inch. Bar stock is your friend. Should be under a few bucks a foot for 1/4"x2" and under $5 for 1/2"x2" in small quantities (and probably $1 a cut or whatever the dig you for in addition).
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Sep 9, 2012 23:00
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veedubfreak posted:Anyone have any experience with this? I've got one. Been using it on and off for a while and it seems fine. It's obviously subject to getting one that catches on fire or blows up, like anything else from HF. Consistency between samples is never so great for them. So with one that is apparently as good as it gets, it's underpowered (compared to red or blue colored tools) but usable. For $20, I'm not sure one could reasonably expect much more. It gets the job done.
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Sep 26, 2012 16:02
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Can someone reccomend me a decent torque wrench I could get at Sears or Home Depot? I've had the standard Sears click style torque wrenches in 3/8 and 1/2 for years and they are just fine as compared against recently calibrated wrenches.
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Sep 30, 2012 20:18
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thebigcow posted:I see people recommending Milwaukee I don't know anything about the others, as the only one I've used is the Milwaukee. Been around for a few years now and still does what it did when it came out of the box. No complaints.
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Nov 11, 2012 16:22
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Nov 14, 2012 18:38
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sharkytm posted:I dunno, I've got a straight shaft one and an angle grinder, they both work fine. As any HF veteran knows: your experience on one tool has absolutely nothing to do with someone else's experience of the "same" tool. Why? Absolutely, positively no consistency or quality control. You either need to fix it or bring it back enough times until you get a "good" one. It's part of the deal. Own it.
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Nov 15, 2012 05:06
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 17:31 |
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Lowclock posted:actual 12 point bolts seem to be pretty rare in cars The only place I've found them recently are on some rocker covers. Why one would choose to use them there is beyond me.
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Nov 17, 2012 19:03
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