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You can get realtime output, but it's far slower than you'll get from something like HPTuners on a LS1. Best I've ever gotten is about 4Hz - that is, one sensor four times a second, or two sensors twice a second, or four sensors once a second, etc. It does come in handy in that you do get to see the actual sensor data, though, and not just freezeframe data.
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Dec 14, 2010 00:55
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oxbrain posted:Pro Tip: Don't rub solvents on your bolt and nut bag. Penetrating lubricants are always fine, though. 
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Dec 21, 2010 00:47
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I'm inclined to agree. There's a big difference between getting under something with only a jack supporting it, and something with stands / some equivalent supporting it. It really is just an overgrown scissor jack. While I really like the idea and the usefulness of it, I wouldn't get under a car held up by a scissor jack, and I wouldn't get under that either...and using it to put your car on stands is overkill compared to a regular hydraulic jack.
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Jan 2, 2011 23:36
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Goddamn, that is cool as hell. Looks like it should be relatively simple for Harbor Freight to eventually copy. Or maybe Autozone / Checker will start loaning something like it out.
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Feb 7, 2011 17:30
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Yeah, the problem with Craftsman is a lot of it is just junk these days. Somewhere in my garage is my dad's nice Craftsman 1/4" drive with a nice tight action; I can only find the externally-identical one I have with a sloppy-as-hell action to it. I get far more use out of the Pittsburgh-branded extendable ratchets on my 3/8" and 1/2" drive stuff, with the exception of the 3/8" Craftsman ratchet I have that has a long rear end handle and a flexible head. When the wife gave it to me (it was her late father's) it was broken and I chose to fix it instead of having Sears chuck me a lovely replacement. The 1/4" stuff I handle with either the aforementioned lovely Craftsman or a much nicer Husky. I will admit to liking Craftsman's socket sets, but that's partly because they have a shallower 3/8" drive 21mm socket than anyone else, and that with a Harbor Freight 3/8" breaker will actually let you pull the crank bolt on a NB Miata without pulling the swaybar.
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Apr 13, 2011 06:36
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Geoj posted:^ Yeah, it really is useless for that. Annoying because I've used similar chargers that could actually kick over a car - my dad has a Schumacher in the same form factor that's probably older than I am and spent years as the "12V power supply" for his R/C battery setup (might still be doing it, actually). My mom got a massive (like the size of a small fridge) unit from K-Mart when they closed that will start drat near anything that can be started.
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Apr 26, 2011 18:32
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eddiewalker posted:Tire pressure gauges aren't usually designed to give constantly updating measurements. I'd like to keep cost down because I'm under $20 so far. I've got a lovely cheap dial gauge from Harbor Freight that actually might work this way, since unlike any decent dial gauge I've ever used, it doesn't have a button to reset - as soon as you take it off the stem, it goes back to zero.
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May 24, 2011 21:11
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heat posted:There are bluetooth OBD-II dongles on ebay that are cheap as poo poo and smartphone apps to pair them with. I've been thinking about picking one up to mess around with. I have one but haven't had a lot of time with it yet. Turns out many of them do have issues communicating with older Ford OBDII vehicles, like my '98 Ranger. Haven't tried it on my MS3 but I did lend it to a friend who used it with his RX8 and it worked out well for him. So as long as you don't have an older Ford, go for it.
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Jun 7, 2011 22:41
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Motronic posted:That's more of a software problem than anything. I just had to update my software to scan a Hyundai Santa Fe that just wouldn't connect. The software update added a "slow start" version of one of the protocols it uses and it now connects about 75% of the time. Eh, in this case it really is a hardware issue. I have an actual ElmScan5 that connects perfectly to the same truck with the same laptop and same software on said laptop, but the cheap Chinese BT dongle refuses to. Part of the fun with OBDII standards is the different standards all have different physical interfaces - yes, they share an OBDII connector, and +12V/G are always in the same spots, but that's it. I suspect the cheap Chinese ripoff didn't properly implement the circuitry needed to speak to J1850 PWM. It's a pretty common complaint of all of the cheap Chinese ripoffs on the Torque wiki.
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Jun 10, 2011 18:35
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Lowclock posted:A cheap $10 mister hose thing and a $20 fan turns into a pretty nice ghetto air conditioner. I need to change the oil, serpentine belt, and headlight on my MS3 this week. I'm so loving doing that.
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Jun 28, 2011 00:56
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Alternatively, get battery powered versions. It's a lot easier to charge a tool battery off of a car than it is to run the tool directly.
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Aug 6, 2011 09:00
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Jaxx posted:Anyone ever seen one of these in the wild?  Practical and safe. For kids!
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Aug 24, 2011 17:53
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Skyssx posted:7.2k matches the PTO HP nicely. However, that is a bare generator head that needs to spin at 3600 RPM. The PTO outputs 540. I'm just window shopping at this point. That head needs to be belt-driven anyway. So you use a drive pulley that's 6.66x larger than the pulley you stick on the generator head, and put a belt between them.
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Sep 6, 2011 01:50
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CatBus posted:I ordered one of these this morning, and thought someone else here might be interested in the deal (4 piece Milwaukee M18 reconditioned tool set: $279 shipped): blindjoe posted:I also hope it doesn't suck as I bought one as well. I have the impact driver from that set. It's a motherfucking tiny god. Strongly recommend picking up this bit set to go with it. I'm really tempted to get something like this and do lugnuts with it too. Fucker is rated to 1400 in-lb, which is just shy of 120 ft-lb.
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Nov 27, 2011 06:56
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14 INCH DICK TURBO posted:It weighs about as much as a car so I don't see why I couldn't get it up on top of Queen Anne hill and let gravity do the rest. Does your toolbox have four-wheel disc brakes with ABS? It doesn't? You poor. 
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Dec 23, 2011 19:29
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Sockington posted:I went with a corded one since they can easily do 350 ft-lbs all day long. I'd say run lithium ion packs because there's very little difference in performance between a full pack and a nearly-empty pack (they drop off suddenly at the very end), but up there in the frozen north you also have to deal with trying to keep the packs warm (cold batteries are poo poo batteries). Also, I love that new (to me) method for balljoints. I doubt my copper deadblow hammer from HF is beefy enough to do it but goddamn I'll buy a bigger sledge if it makes pulling a balljoint / tie rod end that easy.
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Jan 3, 2012 19:38
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The difference is in speed and torque. While I'm sure that, being HF, those ratings are optimistic - the driver is only rated for 145 inch-lb (or about 12 ft-lb), while that impact driver is rated for 384 inch-lb (or about 32 ft-lb). Neither of these are going to be busting through lug nuts anytime soon. The 1/4 inch isn't the limiting factor there, it's the fact that it's a 12V HF tool. My M18 Milwaukee 1/4 inch "compact" impact is rated for 1400 in-lb, or a bit over 110 ft-lb. Should actually be capable of zipping a lugnut off, I just haven't bought the adapters needed.
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Jan 3, 2012 23:50
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Rhyno posted:I think you have confused me with Holdbrooks or Ultimateforce. We should all aspire to be on their level. So get to it!
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Jan 6, 2012 21:25
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The Harbor Freight impact sockets are actually pretty nice, but holy gently caress is it hard to get them off of that plastic sprue setup they come on.
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Jan 18, 2012 23:46
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mod sassinator posted:Glad I'm not the only one annoyed by that. Do that cast the drat thing around the sprue? Sure feels like it. I had almost as much "fun" getting them off as I did actually replacing the LF strut on my MS3, and that was nine hours down the drain.
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Jan 19, 2012 01:25
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That's what I finally ended up doing. Still took a lot more force than it should.
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Jan 19, 2012 03:39
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I did my NB oilchanges from up top like that, and I've got some big goddamn hands. Intake manifold burned the poo poo out of my arm every goddamn time, though.
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Feb 1, 2012 21:27
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Tire shops deal with it all the time. They'll either hammer an old socket on or use an extractor.
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Feb 16, 2012 20:45
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The only concern I have with it is the wildly varying torque ratings given for the 3/8 pro model. Seems like depending on where you look, it could be rated for anything between 125 and 400 ft lb.
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Mar 20, 2012 01:13
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Not everyone has a Scout with plenty of room to get a rattle gun on everything 
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Apr 9, 2012 04:53
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Brigdh posted:Is he? I read it as a non-powered manual hand drill. So that he doesn't blow himself up around possible gas issues Yeah that's how I read it too.
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Apr 19, 2012 23:16
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velocross posted:May have to try that out, I do like the aerosol idea. Did you find it local or have to order it? Permatex generally makes some pretty good stuff. It's easiest to find at NAPA, I think. And it really is amazing poo poo.
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May 20, 2012 05:04
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rcman50166 posted:So are jack stands just jack stands, or are there recommended brands? I need a set for general car use. Probably the largest thing I would put on them would be a minivan. Avoid any that look like they're designed like this:  You want very thick steel, not something thin like that. I can't find them but I know I've seen a picture of a stand of this style where it looks like someone bent it in the middle like a drinking straw.
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Jul 30, 2012 06:30
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Rhyno posted:I need a new cordless drill. I love my Milwaukee M18 drill and driver more than I should probably love a drill. It makes lots of holes and gives no fucks.
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Sep 23, 2012 07:03
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Not a whole lot that would really need it, but it comes in handy even for relatively low-effort tasks. I think the closest I've ever come to making it actually work hard was putting some roughly 3/8" bolts in an aviary where just about everything had a fine layer of oxidation (no full on rust, just enough to make the screws try to stick in their threads). I put a decent twist in the Allen driver, but it spun every one of those screws in no problem. In theory it actually puts out enough torque to do a lug nut, but I haven't bought a 1/4" hex to 3/8" square drive adapter yet to try it. I've given the drill more of a workout (cutting holes with a lovely Harbor Freight holesaw and a dull spade bit I borrowed from my dad, drilling out rivets) and it doesn't skip a beat.
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Sep 23, 2012 07:28
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Rhyno posted:Sounds like a decent drill then. My last good cordless was a makita my ex refused to give back when i moved out and I've been using a $15 meijer clearance drill since then. I was deciding between this and the equivalent Makitas, but what sold me on the Milwaukee was the charger - apparently if you leave a lithium battery on Makita's charger, it will sit there and cycle it forever, whereas the Milwaukee will charge it and be done with it. Of course, lithium batteries charge so fast and last so well that I hardly ever have to dick with the charger. That's a lot of what made me fall in love with it - it's easily as powerful as some of my dad's 30+ year old Black and Decker corded drills, but it's lighter and a lot easier to use. The only downside is that the compact batteries that come with the kit I linked can't be used in some tools, like the actual Sawzall; but they do make a smaller Hackzall that does work with the compact batteries, and I can testify that it cuts like a motherfucker, too.
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Sep 23, 2012 23:17
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You'd need torque sticks.
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Sep 24, 2012 20:22
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kastein posted:It's a trick used by offroaders to avoid spilling gear lube when doing trail repairs on a diff, but I can't say as I know of anyone else using it. Obviously the freezer part can't be done offroad. I just can't imagine a diff on anything stock-or-lifted where you can't get a bottle of gear lube with a hose stuck on the end at the right angle to fill it up, but you can pop a cover off and throw in some ziplocs full of oil.
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Oct 8, 2012 19:22
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So, I stumbled across the Psiclops today - looks like it's a gauge that you hook up to two tires to balance them, and then fill/bleed both as a pair. Anyone got one of these? The price is certainly right assuming that the gauge is any more accurate than the $3 Harbor Freight piece of poo poo, and it would make topping off tires a good bit quicker, especially when using a gas station pump.
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Oct 8, 2012 23:59
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You want both. Why not rent the pickle fork from Autozone and buy a sledge from HF?
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Dec 18, 2012 00:09
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Built-in gauge, as long as it comes with a chuck that locks onto the valvestem. Then instead of switching out between mashing the tire chuck or the pressure gauge onto the valvestem, you lock it on once and play with a trigger to inflate / deflate as needed.
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Dec 30, 2012 06:27
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So my Craftsman 3.5 ton jack from about seven years back seems to have failed. It also seems to be cheap Chinese made poo poo at a not cheap price. I'm going to try replacing the fluid tomorrow to see if that helps, but if not, any reason not to get the Harbor Freight 2.5 low profile?
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Jan 1, 2013 07:45
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Viggen posted:Depending on what you have for coupons.. Coupons are a problem that usually solves itself for me, and yes it'd be the heavy steel one. I don't see any point in paying the premium for another aluminum one when I already have the 1.5 aluminum jack, and if I need to lift something bigger than what it can handle, I don't mind moving a heavier jack around. mod sassinator posted:The only downside of the cheap 2.5 ton aluminum jack is the max lifting height, it's noticeably less than other jacks. It's still fine for doing oil changes etc. on normal cars, but if you have an SUV you'll probably want a bigger lift. Yeah, the Ranger being stock height means I need a nice lift height to do anything useful, especially with the rear end. Sir Cornelius posted:Those cheap Chinese jacks are probably the only Chinese tools I've never seen fail. I guess they have some kind of honor code that outlaws murder by car-crushing. Anyways, they're so cheap that you should be able to afford a couple of solid stands too. The way mine failed, it at least waited until after I had it on stands; I didn't realize anything was up until I tried to lift it higher. Just glad it didn't kill me, I suppose. The other option is this at Costco - I haven't actually looked at it there yet but the reviews everywhere are positive, plus Costco's return policies are nice.
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Jan 1, 2013 18:04
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B4Ctom1 posted:I used one of these devices, my Droid X, and this software to disable "flags" for a 200x camaro that didn't have cats anymore. No more complaints from the ECM. If he would have put the cats and associated sensors back on, I could re-enable with a quick checkmark. Wait, you were actually able to disable certain codes with one of these, rather than just clearing? What software on what device? Also, any chance you've been able to test this particular one with an early OBDII Ford? Most of the China327s don't work well on those.
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Jan 14, 2013 22:30
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If you're just testing for 12V or not - the HF free meter seems to work well enough there.
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Jan 15, 2013 06:29
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